D
default
Guest
On Sun, 7 Jun 2020 13:13:22 -0700 (PDT), Steve Wolf
<stevwolf58@gmail.com> wrote:
>The 5v option and diagram is interesting. The problem I had when I built the circuit , built on me removing the secondary from adapter was that I could only get maybe 3 loops of 14 gauge household wire looped in the space of the removed coil of secondary wire. Is there a size of ac adapter that would be best to try to get 5v or more out of with as few coils of 14 gauge looped in transformer. Eg. In my box of old ac adapters 5v, 12v, 24v etc. Would a higher wall watt give out better output? My original unit has worked for maybe 15 years. Looking to replace. Btw. It pumps water for house, kitchen etc. toilet. Never thought about lawn or washing car but, where I live nobody worries too much about this. There are other solution\'s that people have suggested they are helpful and appreciate the options and efforts.
Back when I was tinkering with my water heater project, I got one of
those small side-by-side transformers. Square core with the primary
on one side secondary on the other. Better than the E-I cores IMO.
Then I wired a 12 position rotary switch so it would switch in 470 ohm
resistors as a load then measured the current and voltage. It went
from zero ohms, 470, 940,... up to 4.7K and open circuit, measuring
voltage and current at each step. I found the maximum power transfer
to be ~2K ohms, with a pretty bell curve. That is where the load
dissipated the most energy. At either extreme of the load power was
significantly less - something to keep in mind.
40 watt soldering iron with something like 12 turns of wire on the
primary side.
The circuit is still on my water heater and has been working for >10
years now. I have a flashing LED that flashes faster as current
increases (like when one heating element is on or both) and a piezo
buzzer that comes on when power is applied (I put a switch on the
water heater to save money) and again when the current drops to zero
(buzzer sounds for as long as a cap can keep it working)
My water heater pulls ~20 amps 240 V and when I breadboarded the
circuit, I was using my 40 watt soldering iron as a dummy load. I
think the water heater only needed two turns of wire. It\'s been too
long ago to remember it all accurately.
<stevwolf58@gmail.com> wrote:
>The 5v option and diagram is interesting. The problem I had when I built the circuit , built on me removing the secondary from adapter was that I could only get maybe 3 loops of 14 gauge household wire looped in the space of the removed coil of secondary wire. Is there a size of ac adapter that would be best to try to get 5v or more out of with as few coils of 14 gauge looped in transformer. Eg. In my box of old ac adapters 5v, 12v, 24v etc. Would a higher wall watt give out better output? My original unit has worked for maybe 15 years. Looking to replace. Btw. It pumps water for house, kitchen etc. toilet. Never thought about lawn or washing car but, where I live nobody worries too much about this. There are other solution\'s that people have suggested they are helpful and appreciate the options and efforts.
Back when I was tinkering with my water heater project, I got one of
those small side-by-side transformers. Square core with the primary
on one side secondary on the other. Better than the E-I cores IMO.
Then I wired a 12 position rotary switch so it would switch in 470 ohm
resistors as a load then measured the current and voltage. It went
from zero ohms, 470, 940,... up to 4.7K and open circuit, measuring
voltage and current at each step. I found the maximum power transfer
to be ~2K ohms, with a pretty bell curve. That is where the load
dissipated the most energy. At either extreme of the load power was
significantly less - something to keep in mind.
40 watt soldering iron with something like 12 turns of wire on the
primary side.
The circuit is still on my water heater and has been working for >10
years now. I have a flashing LED that flashes faster as current
increases (like when one heating element is on or both) and a piezo
buzzer that comes on when power is applied (I put a switch on the
water heater to save money) and again when the current drops to zero
(buzzer sounds for as long as a cap can keep it working)
My water heater pulls ~20 amps 240 V and when I breadboarded the
circuit, I was using my 40 watt soldering iron as a dummy load. I
think the water heater only needed two turns of wire. It\'s been too
long ago to remember it all accurately.