MessageView 421F schematic

"Ken Smith" <kensmith@green.rahul.net> wrote
Clarence_A <no@No.com> wrote:
"Ken Smith" <kensmith@green.rahul.net> wrote in message

As usual "Ken Smith" had nothing intelligent to say!

As usual Clarence_A deletes all the quoted text just to put in a
worthless
comment> One wonders why he bothered to comment since he had
nothing
useful to add.
When "Ken Smith" Has NOTHING to say, there is nothing to quote!

I did add the observation that "Ken Smith" had nothing to say, as
usual!

At least I do not forge knowledge! I state the obvious!
 
In article <vtHBd.5189$wZ2.1675@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com>,
Clarence_A <no@No.com> wrote:
[...]
When "Ken Smith" Has NOTHING to say, there is nothing to quote!
Ah but you see I did have something to say and that was:

*** begin quote ***
.... and ...
Nobody with a lick of sense gives a darn. Bill Clinton could be caught
in the act with an entire football team and a flock of sheep and it wouldn't
matter. Some 1300 US troups dead, 120,000 or so dead in Asia, millions in
Africa dying of AIDs and so on and on and on are far more important issue
than what some adults did in their free time.

I wouldn't even care if it turned out to be true that Bush is doing Rice,
unless that's why she kept her job.
*** end quote ***

Are you so fixated on your hate of Bill Clinton that you won't be able to
resist responding with more foolishness?

--
--
kensmith@rahul.net forging knowledge
 
"Ken Smith" wrote
Clarence_A wrote:
[...]
When "Ken Smith" Has NOTHING to say, there is nothing to
quote!
Ah but you see I did have something to say and that was:
snip
--
kensmith@rahul.net forging knowledge
---------------------^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Again "Ken Smith" dribbled with only a poor political opine, and
nothing of value to say!
 
In article <VKNBd.6071$yV1.5996@newssvr14.news.prodigy.com>,
Clarence_A <no@No.com> wrote:
[...]
kensmith@rahul.net forging knowledge
---------------------^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Yes, I put that in my sig-file on purpose. I doubt you've yet figured out
why. You somehow seem to think you can bother me by pointing it out. If
it bothered me, do you actually believe I would have used it for so long?

I'm going to mension Bill Clinton now just to ensure that you can't resist
responding to this. Under Bill Clinton the buget got balanced.


--
--
kensmith@rahul.net forging knowledge
 
Thanks for the info.


"Ed Price" <edprice@cox.net> wrote in message
news:IaRDd.15928$yW5.14512@fed1read02...
elehman1@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:QtJDd.65783$mA3.13229@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
I am working on a circuit that calls for a MM5837N noise generating IC
chip.
This is an obselete chip and I need to find a chip that can take its
place.

Any help in locating an alternate chip would be great.



http://www.usbid.com show a supplier with 495 in stock.

There's a data sheet at:

http://www.alldatasheet.co.kr/datasheet-pdf/pdf_kor/NSC/MM5837N.html

And this engine shows two vendors in China with about 500 pieces:


http://www.hqew.com/en/buyer/inventory/search.asp?keyword=MM5837N&sltType=IC
&imageField.x=34&imageField.y=12
Try this too:

http://www.candisc.com/ranger/stock18.htm

Inland Empire, in Southern California, where I have bought some rare items
a
few months ago, has about 100 pieces:

http://www.lookic.com/parts/?parts=MM5837N&B1=Request+a+Quote


Ed
wb6wsn
 
A much better white noise source can be made with lots of stages of
jellybean shift register, with two taps XOR'd back to the data input,
with an external clock. The MM5837 is only 17 stages tapped at 14 so it
has an audibly repeating pattern.

The ARG (Audio Reference Generator) we used to make used 33 stages of
SR with taps at 20 and 33 fed back. This gives white noise that does
not audibly repeat (I forget the period, it was minutes or hours.) The
clock was I think about 100 kHz.

The noise generator in Dolby Stereo alignment equipment uses 49 stages
with taps at 44 and 49 fed back. With a 766 kHz clock, the repeat time
is 204,000 hours so you would be *very* hard pressed to hear a pattern.

I have often idly wondered how the designer comes up with the taps for
this service.

Cheers, Clive Tobin
www.tobincinemasystems.com
 
In sci.electronics.components Al <no.spam@wanted.com> wrote:
In article <VaFFd.196682$8G4.46247@tornado.tampabay.rr.com>,
"mlk" <mcguyver@cfl.rr.com> wrote:

Help needed

Does anyone have a simple PIC / video sync / genlock circuit for on screen
display or video overlay of some small graphics and text overlaid on NTSC
video or (RS-170). There are commercial IC's from Maxim, ST micro, TI, but
most are obsolete. I know this can be done, just need the source code and
schematics, any help appreciated.

Mitch



This is what you need: http://www.decadenet.com/bob2/bob2.html

Al
IIRC, that device is quite expensive. If you can live with pretty bad
resolution, look up something called pictock.
http://www.brouhaha.com/~eric/pic/pictock.html

--

Wing Wong.
Webpage: http://wing.ucc.asn.au
 
On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 16:16:48 -0800, "Paul Hovnanian P.E." <Paul@Hovnanian.com>
wrote:

Interesting article in todays Wall Street Journal. It seems that
manufacturers are shipping equipment with region-specific power supplies
lately. It seems that want to prevent folks in Europe (and other places)
from taking advantage of the cheap US dollar and buying here instead of
at home.

They pointed out that although it is cheaper to build one version of a
product with a multi-voltage power supply (particularly if its an SMPS),
that lets too many people buy products on the gray market.

There was a sad example of a guy in Fiji who plugged in a brand new iMac
G5, only to discover that Apple no longer provided multi-voltage power
input.
Have to say that we have bought DVD players etc in California for use over here,
having first of all had a look at the manual for PAL output availability and
then a quick look inside to make sure the switch-mode supply is rated at 240V,
plus a further test on our friends 110/240V step up tranny.

Works well, but you need to know what to look for first. Seems that it is
another way of reducing choice for the consumer.

It must make the operation more expensive for them though, as the electronics is
pretty standard throughout the world, and making a region-specific version is
going to slow the manufacturing process down some.

Regarding the guy in Fiji, presumably he read the manual first..... ?

Peter

--
Peter & Rita Forbes
Email Address:
diesel@easynet.co.uk
Web Pages for Engine Preservation:
http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel
 
I used a similar chip that was a bit more flexible, the AMI S2688. It had an
external clock option so I could shift the noise spectrum to my needs.
Device is also obsolete but was pin compatible with the 5837. I found 5 of
them in the back room if there is any interest. Finding a data sheet could
be a challenge though.
Plug-in solutions are great but if I had to do it again, would do it in a
PIC or AVR.
Oppie

<elehman1@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:QtJDd.65783$mA3.13229@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
I am working on a circuit that calls for a MM5837N noise generating IC
chip.
This is an obselete chip and I need to find a chip that can take its
place.

Any help in locating an alternate chip would be great.
 
Ed <Huckleberry_REMOVE_@bigvalley.net> wrote :

Mama Bear <MamaBear@NoSpam.noo> wrote in
news:Xns95F4A538ABF5AMama@216.196.97.142:

I just dug an old General Radio Bridge 650-A out of the shed. It needs
cleaning up & refurbing. Anyone have any idea what it might be worth
if I wanted to sell it?




One sold on Canadian E-Bay last month for about $12.00 Canadian. You
can see it at:

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=3284&item=
5746299543&rd=1
Jeez, I'm jealous, what a bargain. How cool.

Mine is a dirty beat up old piece of junk. I might be able to get it back
to being clean enough to use, at least. It just has 1 broken banana jack. I
suppose I could clean it up and at least use it here, it probably works.

--
- Mama Bear
 
<elehman1@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:jLAOd.17476$XY5.7094@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
I am looking for a schematic for a simple motion detector. It needs
to be
powered by 6vdc to 12vdc. I am going to connect it to 35mm camera.

I have looked at motion detectors that can be bought alone and those
that
are used on motion activated lights. Motion detectors alone cost more
than
I am willing to pay and the ones used on lights, that I can find, are
24vdc.

The ones I've seen have a 24V relay, but the rest of the circuit is
usually lower, sometimes only 5VDC. So if you replace the relay, it
should work at 6 or 12V.
 
elehman1@columbus.rr.com wrote:
I am looking for a schematic for a simple motion detector. It needs to be
powered by 6vdc to 12vdc. I am going to connect it to 35mm camera.

I have looked at motion detectors that can be bought alone and those that
are used on motion activated lights. Motion detectors alone cost more than
I am willing to pay and the ones used on lights, that I can find, are 24vdc.
There's a PIR motion detector with a radio link to the X10 system.
Runs off two AA batteries. No reason you couldn't pick off a signal
inside to trigger your camera. Can't find it, so can't give you the
model number.
mike

--
Return address is VALID.
Wanted, PCMCIA SCSI Card for HP m820 CDRW.
FS 500MHz Tek DSOscilloscope TDS540 Make Offer
http://nm7u.tripod.com/homepage/te.html
Wanted, 12.1" LCD for Gateway Solo 5300. Samsung LT121SU-121
Bunch of stuff For Sale and Wanted at the link below.
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Monitor/4710/
 
On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 03:43:11 GMT, <elehman1@columbus.rr.com> wrote:

I am looking for a schematic for a simple motion detector. It needs to be
powered by 6vdc to 12vdc. I am going to connect it to 35mm camera.

I have looked at motion detectors that can be bought alone and those that
are used on motion activated lights. Motion detectors alone cost more than
I am willing to pay and the ones used on lights, that I can find, are 24vdc.
How much are you willing to pay?

By the time you have to buy all the parts, the optics, a box to put it
all in and assemble and test it, it will have cost you a lot more than
just buying one.

What do you want to detect, anyway? Humans? Animals?

From how far away?

From how far to the side?

Indoors?

Outdoors?

Summer?

Winter?


--
John Fields
 
John Fields wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 03:43:11 GMT, <elehman1@columbus.rr.com> wrote:

I am looking for a schematic for a simple motion detector. It needs
to be powered by 6vdc to 12vdc. I am going to connect it to 35mm
camera.

I have looked at motion detectors that can be bought alone and those
that are used on motion activated lights. Motion detectors alone
cost more than I am willing to pay and the ones used on lights, that
I can find, are 24vdc.

How much are you willing to pay?

By the time you have to buy all the parts, the optics, a box to put it
all in and assemble and test it, it will have cost you a lot more than
just buying one.

What do you want to detect, anyway? Humans? Animals?

From how far away?

From how far to the side?

Indoors?

Outdoors?

Summer?

Winter?
I saw an item on British TV today which was a very brief review
of kitchen 'swing-bins' and one of them opened its lid just as
the user approached it and took him by surprise. So there's something
out there which costs very little to make that should be adaptable but
I have no other information than that.


--
Graham W http://www.gcw.org.uk/ PGM-FI page updated, Graphics Tutorial
WIMBORNE http://www.wessex-astro-society.freeserve.co.uk/ Wessex
Dorset UK Astro Society's Web pages, Info, Meeting Dates, Sites & Maps
Change 'news' to 'sewn' in my Reply address to avoid my spam filter.
 
I have one in the kitchen that I bought at home depot. It lights up a small
5 watt lamp at night whenever someone enters the kitchen. You could get it
to activate a relay instead of its built-in lamp for external switching.
Cost was $12.00.
Kim
"Popcorn Lover" <popcorn@N0T-SPAM.COM> wrote in message
news:Xns9604D2E64B583popcornN0TSPAMCOM@216.196.97.142...
Does anyone make and sell, an inexpensive indoor tabletop motion sensor
light
controller for a lamp or light to plug into?


--
- Popcorn Lover
If you love popcorn too, there are no popcorn groups on usenet but
there IS one in Yahoo Groups:
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The internet's first-ever-in-the-world popcorn group!
Share the word on making great popcorn - come join us!
 
Popcorn Lover wrote:
Does anyone make and sell, an inexpensive indoor tabletop motion
sensor light
controller for a lamp or light to plug into?

I bought one a few years back (I think at Wal-Mart) that you just
screwed into the light bulb socket and then screwed the light bulb into
it. It works just fine and I've been using it for years to turn on the
light in the closet every time I open the door. I think I paid about
$15 bucks for it.
 
"Kim Sleep" <ksleep@sympatico.ca> wrote :

I have one in the kitchen that I bought at home depot. It lights up a
small 5 watt lamp at night whenever someone enters the kitchen. You
could get it to activate a relay instead of its built-in lamp for
external switching. Cost was $12.00.
That's a night light. I'm talking about one that already would control a
table lamp or something.


--
- Popcorn Lover
If you love popcorn too, there are no popcorn groups on usenet but
there IS one in Yahoo Groups:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Popcorn_Lovers
The internet's first-ever-in-the-world popcorn group!
Share the word on making great popcorn - come join us!
 
"worldcitizen" <duncan@koyote.com> wrote :

Popcorn Lover wrote:
Does anyone make and sell, an inexpensive indoor tabletop motion
sensor light
controller for a lamp or light to plug into?



I bought one a few years back (I think at Wal-Mart) that you just
screwed into the light bulb socket and then screwed the light bulb into
it. It works just fine and I've been using it for years to turn on the
light in the closet every time I open the door. I think I paid about
$15 bucks for it.
I asked about a table top unit and you guys are telling me everything else.
:)



--
- Popcorn Lover
If you love popcorn too, there are no popcorn groups on usenet but
there IS one in Yahoo Groups:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Popcorn_Lovers
The internet's first-ever-in-the-world popcorn group!
Share the word on making great popcorn - come join us!
 
Rich Grise <richgrise@example.net> wrote :

On Fri, 25 Feb 2005 13:36:31 -0600, Popcorn Lover wrote:
"Terry" <tsanford@nf.sympatico.ca> wrote :

If you just want something to 'Plug and play'?
As the above < www.x10.com > site indicates you will pay somewhere
between $25 and say $60 dollars for something you can just plug into
the wall outlet.

I looked there and couldn't even find a tabletop unit that would
control a lamp.

Did you try http://www.google.com ?

http://www.x10.com/products/x10_ms14a.htm
http://www.seattlerobotics.org/encoder/nov98/pirhack.html
http://www.elights.com/sensorbox.html

And so on.
Hacking? Moron! Do you know what "a tabletop motion sensor that controls a
light" means?!


--
Fat Burns

Don't like American freedom? Move to Canuckistan!

http://www.negativepositive.org/fuck-canada.html
 
Rich Grise <richgrise@example.net> wrote :

On Fri, 25 Feb 2005 18:02:20 -0600, Fat Burns wrote:
Rich Grise <richgrise@example.net> wrote :

http://www.x10.com/products/x10_ms14a.htm

Hacking? Moron! Do you know what "a tabletop motion sensor that
controls a light" means?!

GFY. If you can't figure out that the unit in the link above is
sitting on a table top, then you must be merely a troll.
But I was actually looking for a completely self contained unit, not to
have to go out & buy a whole X10 system. A box that sits on a desktop and
senses motion, then switches on a lamp that's plugged into it. Is that more
clear?



--
- Popcorn Lover
If you love popcorn too, there are no popcorn groups on usenet but
there IS one in Yahoo Groups:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Popcorn_Lovers
The internet's first-ever-in-the-world popcorn group!
Share the word on making great popcorn - come join us!
 

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