Intermittent problems are like that.
A fun answer would be:
Tsk, Tsk. One lie on top of another... Do you have *any* redeeming
Go back to your left hand, dumbfuck.
That might burn it up. In addition to keeping it intact for its intended use
I didn't see any. But that doesn't mean they are not there.
--
aul@Hovnanian.com[snip]
Its worked too many times (several dozen) for it to be a coincidence.
aul@Hovnanian.comIs the timing light the clamp-on-spark-wire type? If so, maybe your
480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |It dumps some coil energy and provides a capacitance. Might seem small,
The timing light acts sort of like a zener, right? No current
Its on my things to try list. The truck is parked right now. I'm digging
aul@Hovnanian.comI have an old Toyota FJ40 (1979) with 'transistorized' ignition. A
reluctance pickup wheel in the distributor and solid state module to
switch
the coil in place of the old points.
Its starting to get a bit flakey. From time to time (and more frequently
now) the ignition just cuts out. Just like turning the key off. But it
still has +12V to the coil. After starting the replace parts until its
fixed method, I'm down to the solid state module now.
But, and here's the puzzle, one of my diagnostics for spark/no spark has
been to throw an old timing light on to the coil output. Oddly enough,
that
fixes the problem within a few seconds. The engine fires up and runs fine
for a few days. Otherwise, its crank, wiggle wires, poke around with a
voltmeter to no effect.
At first, I figured that too large spark plug gaps were causing the coil
secondary (and primary) currents to decay too slowly and that this was
screwing up the module's operation (bad flyback diode perhaps?). The
addition of the timing light was like putting a gas discharge surge
arrester in the circuit, clamping the primary voltage quickly. But this
failure continues after having changed plugs, cables, cap, and rotor. New
coil too. So everything should be within spec. And when it runs, it runs
beautifully.
I'm pretty sure its the solid state module that's got to go*. It's the
only
old part left. But I'd like to understand the cause behind the failure
while I fix it. And this is an interesting puzzle. BTW, the module is
potted, so I'm can only guess about its innards.
Any thoughts?
*A replacement is $350. I'm pondering building a DIY unit from scratch.
With
a few test points brought out as well. I've found a few DIY projects on
line (including one with the obligatory uC).
--
Paul Hovnanian mailto
------------------------------------------------------------------
The blinking cursor writes; and having writ, blinks on.
Same here, last time I had one was in the mid 80's and it was in Europe.
Paul,
I have one, it pays about US$100,000 per year, doing electrical
We saw your technique about twenty times now. If any here thought it was
Can you leave the timing light in place permanently?I have an old Toyota FJ40 (1979) with 'transistorized' ignition. A
reluctance pickup wheel in the distributor and solid state module to switch
the coil in place of the old points.
Its starting to get a bit flakey. From time to time (and more frequently
now) the ignition just cuts out. Just like turning the key off. But it
still has +12V to the coil. After starting the replace parts until its
fixed method, I'm down to the solid state module now.
But, and here's the puzzle, one of my diagnostics for spark/no spark has
been to throw an old timing light on to the coil output. Oddly enough, that
fixes the problem within a few seconds. The engine fires up and runs fine
for a few days. Otherwise, its crank, wiggle wires, poke around with a
voltmeter to no effect.
At first, I figured that too large spark plug gaps were causing the coil
secondary (and primary) currents to decay too slowly and that this was
screwing up the module's operation (bad flyback diode perhaps?). The
addition of the timing light was like putting a gas discharge surge
arrester in the circuit, clamping the primary voltage quickly. But this
failure continues after having changed plugs, cables, cap, and rotor. New
coil too. So everything should be within spec. And when it runs, it runs
beautifully.
I'm pretty sure its the solid state module that's got to go*. It's the only
old part left. But I'd like to understand the cause behind the failure
while I fix it. And this is an interesting puzzle. BTW, the module is
potted, so I'm can only guess about its innards.
Any thoughts?
*A replacement is $350. I'm pondering building a DIY unit from scratch. With
a few test points brought out as well. I've found a few DIY projects on
line (including one with the obligatory uC).
--
Paul Hovnanian mailto
------------------------------------------------------------------
The blinking cursor writes; and having writ, blinks on.
Someone else said the timing light is acting as a spark gap giving a
Stop parroting things that you were told the last time you were
A party you are more familiar with than I, since this is the first I've