Chip with simple program for Toy

[Lord Garth]

"R. Steve Walz" <rstevew@armory.com> wrote in message
news:416514D7.292@armory.com...

Jamie wrote:

snip

so don't tell me you can't smoke a serial port! there are many ways
to smoke a port!, over voltage from Flyback charges from those that try
to put inductive devices on line is also another nice way.
--------------
Any idiot who uses inductive flyback in a com circuit deserves whatever
he gets for violating the standard.

Sure, you can over-voltage/current them from without, that is, with an
external supply, but you CANNOT do it by shorting them to each other or
to other RS-232 lines! IT IS IMPOSSIBLE BY THE STANDARD! However, some
serial ports such as on some laptops are NOT PROPERLY IMPLEMENTED as
to current limiting or proper voltage levels !!

-Steve

Yep, I have to agree with Steve here....I've never blown one and have worked
on
hundreds of serial ports connecting this to that through a (ha!) 'standard
serial cable'.
I recall the $$$ I used to get fixing parallel printers that were connected
to a serial
port. Those were the easy money days!

 

Jamie El Fattal <jamie.elfattal@gmail.com> wrote:

I am totally lost on understanding most electronics/power
requirements, so please forgive me for the following.

I have a laptop. On the power adapter, it has the following specs:

input: 100-240V ~ 1.6A 50-60 Hz (-)---(o---(+)
output: 18.5V 3.5A LPS

I want to know if I can use this second power supply for my laptop, or
will it fry my system?

input: 100-240V ~ 1.8A 50-60 Hz (-)---(o---(+)
output: 19V 3.16A

Mostly the part I need to know is do all the numbers have to match
*exactly*? Or can I have, say, a higher Amp value and still be OK? I
guess it is mostly the output that I need to be concerned about, is
that correct?

The output matters..
You _might_ get away with .5V more, and .34A less. But it's takeing a chance
so you better decide wheather it's worth it. And don't forgett that laptop
batteries with wrong electricity might blowup.. without warranties.

I did an theoratical evalutaion of my own laptop battery. And the energy inside
it is equalient to 3 kubic meters of water falling down 7 meters (approx). So
one should have respect for it.
Ofcourse it also illustrates the power difference between the electromagnetic
and gravitational forces

 

In sci.electronics.basics Brian Raab <kaisers_sun@yahoo.com> wrote:

And liked it.

Is an electro-shock dangerous for me or can I shock myself 24 hours a day?

Because I really need it now...

You might get heart fibrillation unknowingly for a few days. If your out of
luck heart may stop to pump during that time.

 

[Dave]

http://www.101science.com/transistor.htm

It's not everything, but it's a start. About the best I have found so far,
working on the same things you are. Check out *all* the links. Some of
them are quite involved.

Dave
db5151@hotmail.com

"nave" <mail2gugly@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:ff062cde.0410080052.26db4bf1@posting.google.com...

is there any good website for learning fundamentals of trasistors,
mainly: dc biasing techniques, reading data sheets and choosing right
one for a given circuit etc.
where can i find transistor circuits for Electronics Workbench, is it
a good idea to learn basics by simulating the circuits, are these
simulations accurate, i mean, does simulated models for components
really behave similar as in real circuits ?

 

[Roger Johansson]

"Dave" <db5151@hotmail.com> wrote:

http://www.101science.com/transistor.htm

Great web page about transistors.

where can i find transistor circuits for Electronics Workbench, is it

Copy from everywhere you find circuits.
Build up a library of standard circuits in EWB, add your own circuits to
the examples collection which comes with the program.

a good idea to learn basics by simulating the circuits, are these
simulations accurate, i mean, does simulated models for components
really behave similar as in real circuits ?

Yes, spice simulations are very accurate.
The only problem is how to enter a circuit correctly.

Using simulation like in EWB is a good way to learn about electronics.
You can burn components all day without really destroying anything


--
Roger J.

 

[petrus bitbyter]

"Brian Raab" <kaisers_sun@yahoo.com> schreef in bericht
news:8d001dc6.0410072320.53ef5439@posting.google.com...

And liked it.

Is an electro-shock dangerous for me or can I shock myself 24 hours a day?

Because I really need it now...

You only can die and we will nominate you for a Darwin Award.

petrus bitbyter


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.771 / Virus Database: 518 - Release Date: 28-9-2004

 

[Jamie]

its my guess you should be ok with that.
its only a .5 volt increase and most likely
will drop down a bit on load.


Jamie El Fattal wrote:

I am totally lost on understanding most electronics/power
requirements, so please forgive me for the following.


I have a laptop. On the power adapter, it has the following specs:

input: 100-240V ~ 1.6A 50-60 Hz (-)---(o---(+)
output: 18.5V 3.5A LPS

I want to know if I can use this second power supply for my laptop, or
will it fry my system?

input: 100-240V ~ 1.8A 50-60 Hz (-)---(o---(+)
output: 19V 3.16A


Mostly the part I need to know is do all the numbers have to match
*exactly*? Or can I have, say, a higher Amp value and still be OK? I
guess it is mostly the output that I need to be concerned about, is
that correct?

TIA.

- Jamie

 

[John Larkin]

On 8 Oct 2004 00:20:35 -0700, kaisers_sun@yahoo.com (Brian Raab)
wrote:

And liked it.

Is an electro-shock dangerous for me or can I shock myself 24 hours a day?

Because I really need it now...

Say, aren't you late for day care?

John

 

[Bruce]

I am totally lost on understanding most electronics/power
requirements, so please forgive me for the following.


I have a laptop. On the power adapter, it has the following specs:

input: 100-240V ~ 1.6A 50-60 Hz (-)---(o---(+)
output: 18.5V 3.5A LPS

I want to know if I can use this second power supply for my laptop, or
will it fry my system?

input: 100-240V ~ 1.8A 50-60 Hz (-)---(o---(+)
output: 19V 3.16A


Mostly the part I need to know is do all the numbers have to match
*exactly*? Or can I have, say, a higher Amp value and still be OK? I
guess it is mostly the output that I need to be concerned about, is
that correct?

TIA.

- Jamie

Chances are you would be fine using the other power supply, but nothing beats
checking with the manufacturer first. Especially with the price of laptops...;o]

They both have center positive, and the specs are very close with only a 1/2V
340mA difference, but I would definitely check with the mfg before plugging it in
to my laptop.

I doubt the mfg would ship a PS with a laptop that's right at the absolute maximum
input voltage of the laptop, so a 1/2V difference is probably a moot point. Most power
supply outputs aren't 100% what the spec says anyhow. If you measure the output
at the power supply jack, you'll most often see more than +/- a 1/2V difference.

Using one with a higher output current rating is normally just fine since the device it's
powering is only going to draw what it needs to begin with "unless it's shorted". Using
one with less may or may not work, but with only a 340mA difference, it's probably
going to work fine.

If your laptop were drawing right at 3.5A from the first one, then using one with a max of
3.16A would definitely cause problems, but even so, the original one would be getting
pretty darn hot with the laptop drawing its MAX current output rating continuously.

At any rate, I would check with the mfg first. It's much cheaper than a new laptop.


--
-Bruce
http://www.rentron.com

 

[Ban]

Roger Johansson wrote:

When measuring small capacitances remember that two inch-long pieces
of isolated wire tightly twisted together have a capacitance of
something like 7pF. It is a trick often used to create a small
capacitor out of wires. I hope you understand that an instrument
measuring sub-pF capacitances would have a giant problem with its own
terminals, unless they were placed at least a meter apart. And the
connecting leads will have even bigger problems as their capacitance
will be dependent on their position.

I have the L/C Meter IIB by "Almost All Digital Electronics" which is
sold(as a kit) for a little more than 100 bucks, which has a resolution of
0.01pF. You can position the probes in the right way and then zero the
display. When I move my hand from 20cm to 2 cm closer to the probes, the
capacitance increases about 0.03pF. Amazingly accurate(1%) and sensitive.
when you cross the probes the capacitance increases about 0.95pF. I think it
comes from Australia?
--
ciao Ban
Bordighera, Italy

 

[Roger Johansson]

"Ban" <bansuri@web.de> wrote:

I have the L/C Meter IIB by "Almost All Digital Electronics" which is
sold(as a kit) for a little more than 100 bucks, which has a resolution
of 0.01pF. You can position the probes in the right way and then zero
the display. When I move my hand from 20cm to 2 cm closer to the
probes, the capacitance increases about 0.03pF. Amazingly accurate(1%)
and sensitive. when you cross the probes the capacitance increases
about 0.95pF. I think it comes from Australia?

I found the schematics for this L/Cmeter at:

http://www.aade.com/lcm2binst/LC2Binst.htm

If the 311 is used as an oscillator here, the display component
has to work as a frequency counter.




--
Roger J.

 

[Rich Webb]

On 8 Oct 2004 17:06:51 -0700, john_20_28_2000@yahoo.com (jm) wrote:

Should I buy a breadboard with a 5 volt regulated power supply or get
a regular breadboard without one?

As a general rule, the breadboard + power supply kits don't save you
that much and are a lot less flexible than separates. In addition, you
may want something other than +5 if you ever use op amps or lower
voltage stuff. Something like this
http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/3506 would do you for
a while. It's not Lambda Power but still...


It would help, though, if you could mention some specifics about what
equipment you have in mind.

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA

 

[Peter Bennett]

On 8 Oct 2004 17:06:51 -0700, john_20_28_2000@yahoo.com (jm) wrote:

Should I buy a breadboard with a 5 volt regulated power supply or get
a regular breadboard without one?

Thank you.

Whatever you do, you will need a power supply of some sort - having it
built into the breadboard may be convenient.

If you expect to work with microcontrollers or other digital logic,
you will probably want a 5 volt supply (although many parts these days
are designed to work on lower voltages.)

If you will be working in the analog world (audio amplifiers, for
example) you will want bipolar supplies +/- 12 - 15 volts, typically.




--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI
peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca
new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq
GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter
Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca

 

[dan]

What's that Lassie? You say that Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, the Dark
Remover" fell down the old sci.electronics.basics mine and will die if
we don't mount a rescue by Thu, 23 Sep 2004 05:02:14 -0700:

In my humble opinion, the candlepower guys are a bunch of elitists,
trying to make some bucks. They make these good looking flashlights,
but they all use CR123 lithium cells which cost up to $10 each or more,
and are hard to find.

You can get them for $1.00 at http://www.batterystation.com/cpf.htm
--

Dan

 

[Tim Auton]

Rich Grise <null@example.net> wrote:
[snip]

I don't understand why the guy doesn't just go to a landscaping store and
pick up a pond pump. Or the pet store and get an aquarium pump. Or the
marine store and get a bilge pump. Or a bubbler.

Maybe he's a troll, or, since I haven't seen any comment from him since
the OP, maybe he's one of those ask-and-run guys.

I see one reply from him in this thread:

<adbf5bc1.0410031012.181b6b1b@posting.google.com>

Anyway, I've no doubt he really does want a water-proof motor and this
was a serious question. Abdul (Abdul Ahad institutionalised himself
is a regular on the astro groups. He likes to perform his own missions
inspired by current developments in space exploration (tele-robotic
rovers in the garden, that kind of thing) and discuss, ah, the future
of space exploration. The OP was related to the former I suspect. I
think he's harmless, certainly not a troll, but IMHO he could serve
his interests better by diverting some of his enthusiasm into
research.


Tim
--
Do you want your computer to trust a software vendor more than you?
http://www.cl.cam.ac.uk/~rja14/tcpa-faq.html

 

[Jajal]

I believe that if the second power supply is regulated then it should work
fine. A Non-Regulated power supply may be harmful to your laptop as the
voltage vary depending on the load. Assuming that your second power supply
is non-regulated then I would first check with the mfg. to see if the second
power supply can be used.


<pbdelete@spamnuke.ludd.luthdelete.se.invalid> wrote in message
news:41665d7d$0$174$cc7c7865@news.luth.se...

Jamie El Fattal <jamie.elfattal@gmail.com> wrote:
I am totally lost on understanding most electronics/power
requirements, so please forgive me for the following.


I have a laptop. On the power adapter, it has the following specs:

input: 100-240V ~ 1.6A 50-60 Hz (-)---(o---(+)
output: 18.5V 3.5A LPS

I want to know if I can use this second power supply for my laptop, or
will it fry my system?

input: 100-240V ~ 1.8A 50-60 Hz (-)---(o---(+)
output: 19V 3.16A


Mostly the part I need to know is do all the numbers have to match
*exactly*? Or can I have, say, a higher Amp value and still be OK? I
guess it is mostly the output that I need to be concerned about, is
that correct?

The output matters..
You _might_ get away with .5V more, and .34A less. But it's takeing a
chance
so you better decide wheather it's worth it. And don't forgett that laptop
batteries with wrong electricity might blowup.. without warranties.

I did an theoratical evalutaion of my own laptop battery. And the energy
inside
it is equalient to 3 kubic meters of water falling down 7 meters (approx).
So
one should have respect for it.
Ofcourse it also illustrates the power difference between the
electromagnetic
and gravitational forces

 

[Steve Evans]

On Sun, 03 Oct 2004 23:25:05 GMT, Doug Smith W9WI
<w9wi@invalid.invalid> wrote:

A capacitor has a very low impedance to high-frequency (i.e., 145MHz)
signals and a very high impedance to low-frequency (i.e., DC) signals.

An inductor is the other way around - very low impedance to low
frequency (DC) signals and very high impedance to high frequency (2m).

Sure, I'm aware of all this basic crap, but every reply I've had to
this question has thrown up a different answer and none of them make
much sense. Can't you guys come up with something in common that adds
up?
Thanks,

Steve
--

Fat, sugar, salt, beer: the four essentials for a healthy diet.

 

[Rich Grise]

On Wednesday 06 October 2004 05:56 pm, R. Steve Walz did deign to grace us
with the following:

boki wrote:
....
I guess, I am wrong at Step4, or the Appication (VB MSCOMM control)
only be trigger at a 'complete' byte not a bit...

Best regards,
Boki.
--------------------------
Windows does permit the LPT port, but doesn't permit the COM ports to
work without permissions set. Get a .dll or such to enable it.

That's what VB MSCOMM is, essentially.

I don't think Boki has a clue what he/she is looking for, and it's
clear that he/she hasn't read an RS-232 tutorial.

Cheers!
Rich

 

[Rich Grise]

On Wednesday 06 October 2004 06:39 am, John Fields did deign to grace us
with the following:

On 06 Oct 2004 12:49:34 GMT, cbarn24050@aol.com (CBarn24050) wrote:

When I connect RS-232 TX to oscilloscope, connect oscilloscope ground
to pin.1(Earth ground) or pin.7(GND logical ground), oscilloscope both
never has signals. If I 'short' RS-232 pin.2(TX) and pin.3(RX), it
works!

Try connecting your scope to the RX signal, If it sees anything then you
have your Tx Rx transposed, a common mistake, caused by using the wrong
gender connector.

---
Good call, but not necessarily the wrong gender connector. Rx and Tx
"legally" trade places depending on whether the device is DTE or DCE.

No, they don't. It's only the data that's going the opposite direction.

IOW, TXD is an output on DTE and an input on DCE. (or the other way
around - probably, since it's 50-50, and 90% of the time I'm wrong.)

HTH!
Rich

 

[Rich Grise]

On Monday 04 October 2004 12:32 pm, John Larkin did deign to grace us with
the following:

On Sun, 3 Oct 2004 08:47:48 +0000 (UTC), Haakon Riiser
hakonrk@fys.uio.no> wrote:

Scope 1875


Yikes! $1875 + 24% = $2325! A TDS2012 is $1595 here, plus 7.5% state
sales tax, which you can finesse by buying it out-of-state. As a
company purchase, we can expense it and get back almost 50% as a tax
deduction, so it really costs us about $900.

Why don't governments tax the useless crap, and give people a break on
productive/educational stuff?

It's a sop to the underclasses, who consider it to be nothing more

sinister than making "the rich" pay their "fair share."

Cheers!
Rich