Chip with simple program for Toy

John Larkin wrote:
On Sat, 2 Oct 2004 23:29:40 +0000 (UTC), Haakon Riiser
hakonrk@fys.uio.no> wrote:

I can't remember the last time I used
sweep on a fungen.
Fungen sounds like some bad fungus you get from using a func-gen... ;)
 
On Sun, 03 Oct 2004 00:12:00 GMT, "Bullwinkle Jones"
<bullwinklejones@gmail.com> wrote:

John Larkin wrote:
On Sat, 2 Oct 2004 23:29:40 +0000 (UTC), Haakon Riiser
hakonrk@fys.uio.no> wrote:

I can't remember the last time I used
sweep on a fungen.

Fungen sounds like some bad fungus you get from using a func-gen... ;)
Func-gen sounds like a really funky generator.

I'm designing a thing now (I think it's for testing something on a
B-52) that my customer calls a "fugen." As long as he pays for it he
gets to name it, I suppose.


John
 
[John Larkin]

Good choices on the gear.
Sweep isn't crucial. You can always turn a knob by hand and plot a
frequency response or something. I can't remember the last time I used
sweep on a fungen.
That's good to hear. I probably should have posted the equipment
list for comments before I went out and bought everything, but
apparently, it turned out okay in spite of that. :)

Fun stuff could be done with a sound card as a frequency response
analyzer. I think there's software around.
Ah, I didn't think of that; thanks for the tip! I think I can
manage without the software, since I can program the sound card
myself. Of course, the sound card does not have the frequency
range of the function generator, but that's okay -- I'm mostly
in this for fun and educational purposes. And speaking of the
frequency range: I used to think that the 192 kHz sample rate
offered in modern sound cards was ridiculous, but now I can
finally see how that could be useful. :)

--
Haakon
 
On Sun, 3 Oct 2004 19:20:22 +0000 (UTC), "Reg Edwards"
<g4fgq.regp@ZZZbtinternet.com> wrote:

The input impedance of the transistor is capacitive. So the inductor very
likely resonates with it at the working frequency.
You might be on to something here, Reg. Maybe the inductor's there to
'neutralise' the transistor's input capacitance.
The parallel tuned circuit formed by the inductor and the transistor
input capacitance would have a maximum impedance at 145Mhz if the
transistor's (capacitive) input impedance were about 3pF., which
doesn't sound far out for an RF small-signal tranny. Without that
inductor, sure there'd be no bias on the base, but additionally, the
input capacitance of the transistor will shunt away much of the VHF
input signal to ground.
Does that make sense?
--

"What is now proved was once only imagin'd." - William Blake, 1793.
 
The input impedance of the transistor is capacitive. So the inductor very
likely resonates with it at the working frequency.
----
Reg, G4FGQ
 
On Thursday 23 September 2004 12:56 pm, eYeLess did deign to grace us with
the following:

haha funny sorry i meant lighting control
well im trying to control a normal light bulb 100 watts maybe via a
micrcontroller that will recieve the command from a central station
using zigbee i thought i could use one of the general i/o ports of the
mcu
but im not sure what else i would be missing to control the triac
do you guys have any suggestions? thanks in advance!
If you don't already know how to drive a triac gate from a uC pin,
you'd probably be better off with solid state relays. Just input
a DC voltage and they control the line. And they're already
isolated.

Good Luck!
Rich
 
On Sunday 03 October 2004 08:18 pm, jm did deign to grace us with the
following:

I have a game I took apart and on the pcb it has:

OPCVO
76021300
9712 REV.B

These turn nothing up in Google.

If I want to know what Microprocessor this company used for their
game, where would I start (besides asking them)? Thank you.

The chip itself is not in a plastic case with legs, rather it is the
little "square" chip with the leads attached directly, hard melted
plastic covering the chip. I can't see the chip, so I don't know if
it has markings on it.

That's "chip-on-board", and there's essentially no way to find out
other than to dissolve the epoxy blob with hydrofluoric acid and
reverse-engineer the chip itself.

It's much cheaper to just buy a new micro. ;-)

Cheers!
Rich
 
Hey, Garth, the voltage across the positive and negative leads of the
charger (while actually charging) is 2.6v (which I think means that I'm
sinking all available voltage EXCEPT 2.6 volts. The voltage across the
leads of the device with the driver NOT attached, so it's open circuit
potential is 13.6 (approx.) volts. I ran the unit for a while last
night without the housing of the driver getting hot or even warm, but
the LM317 sure gets hot. I set one device up as a constant voltage
device, as I think I mentioned in one of my posts and it got hot, too.
I still don't know if I should be setting this thing up as a constant
voltage or a constant current device, or if I should be looking for
some different technology to do this. If it's constant current, won't
it do just that, remain constant so, say the driver's battery is
getting fully charged so it's current tries to drop (it's drawing less
current), won't the setup of the LM317 as a constant current device
just increase voltage to still manage the same amount of current
output? With the constant voltage device it would seem like it
couldn't increase the current because it can't increase the voltage, so
that might be better, but it was getting hot, too.

The heat tells me that maybe the problem is inherent to this device
trying to dissipate/sink the difference between a 13.8v car system and
a 2.4v driver. It would help if I knew a lot more about electronics,
and it's frustrating not knowing this stuff any better than I do; I
fear that my ingnorance may be preventing me from seeing or
understanding some simple thing that would make this clear.

Anyway, thanks for your help and time.

--HC
 
Good one Rich, I didn't see that coming.

Gordon.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Rich Grise" <null@example.net> wrote in message
news:RY98d.4126$eq1.2988@trnddc08...
On Monday 04 October 2004 02:32 am, Gordon Youd did deign to grace us with
the following:

Some people are allergic to nuts!.

And some nuts are allergic to people!

Ha! I got it first!

Cheers!
Rich
 
Subject: hall effect switch question
From: smpaladin@yahoo.com (smpaladin)
Date: 10/3/2004 4:57 PM Central Daylight Time
Message-id: <6753235c.0410031357.203f8df0@posting.google.com

Based on this description at
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=UGN-3030T
I can't tell if the sensor is bi-polar or unipolar. Also, about how
far must a magnet be in order to turn the switch on?
It will work for N or S magnets (I think that's what you mean). If you're
asking about output, it's NPN open collector -- current sink only when on, no
current source.

If you can measure magnetic field strength in gauss, you can look at the data
sheet which is accessible from the link you provided. Otherwise, just get one
and measure it with your magnet. By looking at the data sheet, you'll see
there's some difference between max. and min. turn-on and turn-off values. If
you're looking for extreme positional accuracy, this might not be the part for
you. But for most small magnets, the turn-on points for these integrated hall
effect sensor/amplifiers should be within a few mm. of each other.

Good luck
Chris
 
On Sun, 3 Oct 2004 08:47:48 +0000 (UTC), Haakon Riiser
<hakonrk@fys.uio.no> wrote:

About how much did the equipment set you back?

A _lot_, but I managed to justify it to myself by considering the
countless hours of fun it will give me and, eventually, valuable
knowledge that I can put on my resume. Compare this to all the
other junk we spend money on, and then it doesn't look so bad. :)

Anyway, here you got it, all in USD (prices exclude the 24 %
Norwegian sales tax):

Scope 1875

Yikes! $1875 + 24% = $2325! A TDS2012 is $1595 here, plus 7.5% state
sales tax, which you can finesse by buying it out-of-state. As a
company purchase, we can expense it and get back almost 50% as a tax
deduction, so it really costs us about $900.

Why don't governments tax the useless crap, and give people a break on
productive/educational stuff?

John
 
Jwolfdiapers wrote:
got the wart off the streets for
-------------
You're a shitty little liar! The rest is a lie as well.
Steve
 
On Mon, 04 Oct 2004 12:32:59 -0700, John Larkin
<jjlarkin@highSNIPlandTHIStechPLEASEnology.com> wrote:

Why don't governments tax the useless crap, and give people a break on
productive/educational stuff?
Maybe because those people selling useless crap like cigarettes make a
lot lot lot more money and therefore can afford to influence the
decisions? :pPpPpp

--
L.Angel: I'm looking for web design work.
If you need basic to med complexity webpages at affordable rates, email me :)
Standard HTML, SHTML, MySQL + PHP or ASP, Javascript.
If you really want, FrontPage & DreamWeaver too.
But keep in mind you pay extra bandwidth for their bloated code
 
"R. Steve Walz" <rstevew@armory.com> wrote:
Jwolfdiapers wrote:

got the wart off the streets for
-------------
You're a shitty little liar! The rest is a lie as well.
He's not only a liar, but what he said is libelous. You could sue him
if you like.


Tim
--
Do you want your computer to trust a software vendor more than you?
http://www.cl.cam.ac.uk/~rja14/tcpa-faq.html
 
more often than not, they're not an off-the-shelf micro; rather they're a
custom designed-manufactured ASIC.

It's actually cheaper to mass-produce them that way (Think masked ROM vs
EPROM).

"jm" <john_20_28_2000@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:c67e4bdd.0410031918.542f3570@posting.google.com...
I have a game I took apart and on the pcb it has:

OPCVO
76021300
9712 REV.B

These turn nothing up in Google.

If I want to know what Microprocessor this company used for their
game, where would I start (besides asking them)? Thank you.

The chip itself is not in a plastic case with legs, rather it is the
little "square" chip with the leads attached directly, hard melted
plastic covering the chip. I can't see the chip, so I don't know if
it has markings on it.

Thanks again.
 
On Tue, 05 Oct 2004 01:49:16 GMT, Rich Webb
<bbew.ar@mapson.nozirev.ten> wrote:

On Tue, 05 Oct 2004 00:16:34 GMT, "Carl Gilbert"
mr_carl_gilbert@hotmail.com> wrote:

Hi

I am looking to build a basic heating system using the attached design. It
incorporates a 555, a variable resistor, some diodes and other bits and
pieces I don't understand but soon will.

The only problem is finding/making a board for it. I made a board in school
once where we used some sort of pen to draw the outline and dipped the thing
in acid.
Complete instructions and lots of tips on how to do that are at
<www.daqarta.com/lptxh.htm>

Best regards,


Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com
 
On 05 Oct 2004 02:15:58 GMT, jwolfdiapers@aol.com (Jwolfdiapers)
wrote:

got the wart off the streets for good, so he can stop molesting his daughters,
and stop harassing everyone knew here. wart is part of the big beagle boys
gang. glad that wart is finally behind bars where the puke belongs!!!!!!

dont believe i am jwolf? i'll prove it by showing you my floppy diapers.

Mike rosenbarf made a website of me and i shut it down!! somehow Mike got
pictures of me in diapers, as he hacke dinto my server for the second time!!!
but I shut him down!!!!!! I contacted the Feds and they shut Mike down, who is
also in jail for showing private pictures of me in diapers and for hacking into
my server!!!

we we we we...

you think I am Enough? NO No I am jwolf!!! Some call me jdoggy but I am
jwolf!!!!


I am John Micheel Wolf, age 24, weight-200, eyes- blue, hair- blue
---
Height 5'2", IQ = age, sex = enemas from father

--
John Fields
 
On 5 Oct 2004 07:09:47 -0700, quintero@walla.co.il (quintero) wrote:

i have this door opener which has a 2 wires connected to it, basically
if i connect the 2 wires together the door opens.
now i want to connect these wires in some way to the com port in my
computer, so i can control the door with some software. i know how to
set RTS and DTR, but how do i complete the ciruit and connect the 2
wires together?
Like this:

+V
| +------->TO DOOR WIRE 1
+------+ |NO
|K | O-> |
[DIODE] [COIL]- - - -|COM
| | O--->TO DOOR WIRE 2
+------+
|
C
RTS>---[4K7]-+---B NPN
|K E
[DIODE] |
| |
SIGNAL GND>--+-----+
|
GND>---------------+

Assert RTS momentarily when you want the door to open.







--
John Fields
 
On 5 Oct 2004 13:47:47 -0700 in sci.electronics.basics, ag2217@yahoo.com
(Bill Gallagher) wrote,
I have completed assembly of a guitar effects box off of a schematic
but don't know where to hook up the 9volt power or the in and outputs
(1/4" jacks) can I send a copy of the schematic to you for help?
You can post the schematic with your questions to newsgroup
alt.binaries.schematics.electronic
Many of the same people will see it there as here.

In many cases, schematics are drawn by convention with the inputs on the
left hand side, the outputs on the right, the positive power connection
at top and the negative power connection at the bottom. That may make
it easier to figure out the connections.
 
Subject: Re: hall effect switch question
From: smpaladin@yahoo.com (smpaladin)
Date: 10/5/2004 12:13 PM Central Daylight Time
Message-id: <6753235c.0410050913.3832e0bb@posting.google.com


So if it's an NPN open collector, it will be turned on only when a
magnet is held over the sensor?

Yes. If you use a pullup resistor, the output will go logic low (saturated NPN
transistor voltage, usually 0.4V to 0.15V, depending on how much current is
sinking) when the magnet gets close to the sensor.

Buy one and try it. See how it works.

Chris
 

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