Wired, outdoor PC cameras?...

Char Jackson wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

When it happens, chop the lead in two with a vengeance and discard it, so you\'re
not tempted to re-use it later \"just temporarily\" ...

That seems drastic. I\'ve successfully used Ethernet cables where the
barb has fallen off, including one cable that has been barbless for a
number of years.

And then one day, someone is doing the hoovering, or kicks a desk, or a pet gets
round the back, and something stops working ... if you can retuerminate it with
a new plug, sure but patch cables are cheap, stuff not working is frequently
expensive ...
 
Char Jackson wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

When it happens, chop the lead in two with a vengeance and discard it, so you\'re
not tempted to re-use it later \"just temporarily\" ...

That seems drastic. I\'ve successfully used Ethernet cables where the
barb has fallen off, including one cable that has been barbless for a
number of years.

And then one day, someone is doing the hoovering, or kicks a desk, or a pet gets
round the back, and something stops working ... if you can retuerminate it with
a new plug, sure but patch cables are cheap, stuff not working is frequently
expensive ...
 
micky wrote:

I have one of these tools
that I bought for phone cords, but the place that holds the plug is wide
enough ethernet. I just need some connectors.

Most plugs are for \'solid\' cable, to repair patch cables you need to get the
type of plugs for \'stranded\' cable, I think there is also a type of plug that
copes with both ...
 
micky wrote:

I have one of these tools
that I bought for phone cords, but the place that holds the plug is wide
enough ethernet. I just need some connectors.

Most plugs are for \'solid\' cable, to repair patch cables you need to get the
type of plugs for \'stranded\' cable, I think there is also a type of plug that
copes with both ...
 
micky wrote:

I have one of these tools
that I bought for phone cords, but the place that holds the plug is wide
enough ethernet. I just need some connectors.

Most plugs are for \'solid\' cable, to repair patch cables you need to get the
type of plugs for \'stranded\' cable, I think there is also a type of plug that
copes with both ...
 
Ken Blake wrote:
Piet wrote:
Andy Burns wrote:
wasbit wrote:
When you have mounted your box, to get the cables in, you then have to drill
holes & add sealing glands (UK terminology). The holes will have to be large
enough to allow whatever is on the end of the cable to pass through or you will
have to cut & rejoin the cables.
IMHO not a good idea.

I would expect a weatherproof box that was good enough to keep a switch
protected from the elements to cost a lot

A plastic lunch box, silicone sealant and a bit of home work would
do the job in a cheap way. I

But if a hungry thief sees the lunch box...

Then (s)he would be disappointed by the not exactly nutritious content. ;-)

-p
 
Ken Blake wrote:
Piet wrote:
Andy Burns wrote:
wasbit wrote:
When you have mounted your box, to get the cables in, you then have to drill
holes & add sealing glands (UK terminology). The holes will have to be large
enough to allow whatever is on the end of the cable to pass through or you will
have to cut & rejoin the cables.
IMHO not a good idea.

I would expect a weatherproof box that was good enough to keep a switch
protected from the elements to cost a lot

A plastic lunch box, silicone sealant and a bit of home work would
do the job in a cheap way. I

But if a hungry thief sees the lunch box...

Then (s)he would be disappointed by the not exactly nutritious content. ;-)

-p
 
Ken Blake wrote:
Piet wrote:
Andy Burns wrote:
wasbit wrote:
When you have mounted your box, to get the cables in, you then have to drill
holes & add sealing glands (UK terminology). The holes will have to be large
enough to allow whatever is on the end of the cable to pass through or you will
have to cut & rejoin the cables.
IMHO not a good idea.

I would expect a weatherproof box that was good enough to keep a switch
protected from the elements to cost a lot

A plastic lunch box, silicone sealant and a bit of home work would
do the job in a cheap way. I

But if a hungry thief sees the lunch box...

Then (s)he would be disappointed by the not exactly nutritious content. ;-)

-p
 
On 12/25/2022 9:02 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 25 Dec 2022 20:24:06 -0500, Paul
nospam@needed.invalid> wrote:

On 12/25/2022 9:04 AM, Andy Burns wrote:
Graham J wrote:

the barbs on RJ45 plugs do break off, rendering them useless.  They break because of inexpert handling - don\'t blame yourself, it happens to all of us!

When it happens, chop the lead in two with a vengeance and discard it, so you\'re not tempted to re-use it later \"just temporarily\" ...


You can chop the head off with a vengeance, then put another head on.
Just like that Frankenstein movie.

https://www.amazon.ca/Shahe-Ethernet-Network-Tester-Crimping/dp/B08LQ8QF4Q

Char, Paul, I was going to ask about this. I have one of these tools
that I bought for phone cords, but the place that holds the plug is wide
enough ethernet. I just need some connectors.

Mine is just plastic but it worked well. I think I have a professional
model I got at a hamfest or yard sale.

The comments are mostly positive, but this is one star:
this sucks, the blade doesn\'t trim wires properly and damages crystals, not worth the money. Wasted so much time on
installs just trying to trim a crystal properly

What is a crystal. The plastic end? Why is he trimming it?
---
Thhis is 4 stars but negative. It implies you should write down the
order of the wires before cutting off the original end.

Will probably work well…. but don’t buy
Reviewed in the United States on September 13, 2021
Model: 4in1 Tool KitVerified Purchase
That is, if you’ve never done this before. Instead, get a pass-through
crimper and plug set and your life will be easier. See, the cable wires

[What\'s that?]

you want to splice must be unraveled into the 8 individual data wires
and put into a specific color order to be inserted into the modular plug
and then crimped. (By the way, the video on the page shows the order for
only the rare, 568A configuration. Most systems call for the 568B
configuration which orders the wires differently. Be sure you know what
configuration you are working with before you order the wire colors. A
568B wire-order diagram is on the product page.) It’s not too difficult
to separate, smooth the wires, and get them into the right color order
when you’re working with two inches of the cable wires. But holding that
order in your fingers right next to the plastic cable sheathing,
clipping the wires down to a half inch and then inserting all of them
all into the plug at the same time is very difficult for a first timer
and takes a lot of practice (I assume). The problem is that the wires
terminate at the end of the plug. You can’t hold one wire in that
position while you mess with other wires that are misbehaving; and they

[I know. It was pretty easy for 4 wires, haven\'t tried more.]

will misbehave. The pass-through plugs help solve this by letting the
wires go in the back of the plug into their proper channel and then
extend out through the front end of the plug. This way you don’t have to
clip the wires before inserting them. You can actually insert one wire
at a time and when it passes through the front bend it so that it stays
put while you insert the next wire in the order (a procedure that
probably infuriates the purists). Once all the wires are inserted
through in the right order the special pass-through crimper not only
locks down the wires and sheathing, but also clips the excess wires in
front of the plug. You just have to be careful when inserting the wires
that you don’t skip a hole and end up one or two wires with no home.
You’ll also want to twist the end of the loose wires together after
their all in to get them through the crimping hole cleanly. Finally,
remember to slip the plug cover on the cable before you start working

[shoudln\'t be \"finally\". Should be first.]

with the wire. You can find the pass-through crimpers here on Amazon by
searching for them specifically. It will still be a tedious process but
at least doable for a novice. Good luck.
One person found this helpful
Report abuse
--

Here is one that is called pass-through. I don\'t know why it would be
easier.
https://www.amazon.com/CHZHLM-Through-Connector-Connectors-Stripper/dp/B0B73Y5RS4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa

One of the images is a video (on the left), and shows \"crimping on a new head\".

It\'s just the first thing that showed up in a search, and has
no particular merits.

I\'ve never done one of those, so can\'t say how easy it is to
get a good termination.

Phone line was easy.
It just means you can stuff the wires one at a time into
the connector and it won\'t pop out of place.

The T368A and T368B thing is for rolled or straight-thru cabling.
I can tell this, by noting the reversal of 1,2 3,6 on the two connectors
in the depiction.

1,2 to 1,2 Straight-thru (most all of my cables are like this)
3,6 to 3,6

1,2 to 3,6 Rolled cable (only one spare is like this, haven\'t used in some time)
3,6 to 1,2 (Could have blue boot on one end, red boot on other end of cable)

Any more info than that, you\'ll have to look up. A rolled cable
might be used between a broadband modem and a router. Straight cables
tend to be used from router to PC or switch to PC. Doing direct PC to PC,
uses a rolled cable (only if both ends are limited to 10/100BT NICs).
GbE equipment has MDI/MDIX which can deal with either straight or
rolled cabling.

Paul
 
On 12/25/2022 9:02 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 25 Dec 2022 20:24:06 -0500, Paul
nospam@needed.invalid> wrote:

On 12/25/2022 9:04 AM, Andy Burns wrote:
Graham J wrote:

the barbs on RJ45 plugs do break off, rendering them useless.  They break because of inexpert handling - don\'t blame yourself, it happens to all of us!

When it happens, chop the lead in two with a vengeance and discard it, so you\'re not tempted to re-use it later \"just temporarily\" ...


You can chop the head off with a vengeance, then put another head on.
Just like that Frankenstein movie.

https://www.amazon.ca/Shahe-Ethernet-Network-Tester-Crimping/dp/B08LQ8QF4Q

Char, Paul, I was going to ask about this. I have one of these tools
that I bought for phone cords, but the place that holds the plug is wide
enough ethernet. I just need some connectors.

Mine is just plastic but it worked well. I think I have a professional
model I got at a hamfest or yard sale.

The comments are mostly positive, but this is one star:
this sucks, the blade doesn\'t trim wires properly and damages crystals, not worth the money. Wasted so much time on
installs just trying to trim a crystal properly

What is a crystal. The plastic end? Why is he trimming it?
---
Thhis is 4 stars but negative. It implies you should write down the
order of the wires before cutting off the original end.

Will probably work well…. but don’t buy
Reviewed in the United States on September 13, 2021
Model: 4in1 Tool KitVerified Purchase
That is, if you’ve never done this before. Instead, get a pass-through
crimper and plug set and your life will be easier. See, the cable wires

[What\'s that?]

you want to splice must be unraveled into the 8 individual data wires
and put into a specific color order to be inserted into the modular plug
and then crimped. (By the way, the video on the page shows the order for
only the rare, 568A configuration. Most systems call for the 568B
configuration which orders the wires differently. Be sure you know what
configuration you are working with before you order the wire colors. A
568B wire-order diagram is on the product page.) It’s not too difficult
to separate, smooth the wires, and get them into the right color order
when you’re working with two inches of the cable wires. But holding that
order in your fingers right next to the plastic cable sheathing,
clipping the wires down to a half inch and then inserting all of them
all into the plug at the same time is very difficult for a first timer
and takes a lot of practice (I assume). The problem is that the wires
terminate at the end of the plug. You can’t hold one wire in that
position while you mess with other wires that are misbehaving; and they

[I know. It was pretty easy for 4 wires, haven\'t tried more.]

will misbehave. The pass-through plugs help solve this by letting the
wires go in the back of the plug into their proper channel and then
extend out through the front end of the plug. This way you don’t have to
clip the wires before inserting them. You can actually insert one wire
at a time and when it passes through the front bend it so that it stays
put while you insert the next wire in the order (a procedure that
probably infuriates the purists). Once all the wires are inserted
through in the right order the special pass-through crimper not only
locks down the wires and sheathing, but also clips the excess wires in
front of the plug. You just have to be careful when inserting the wires
that you don’t skip a hole and end up one or two wires with no home.
You’ll also want to twist the end of the loose wires together after
their all in to get them through the crimping hole cleanly. Finally,
remember to slip the plug cover on the cable before you start working

[shoudln\'t be \"finally\". Should be first.]

with the wire. You can find the pass-through crimpers here on Amazon by
searching for them specifically. It will still be a tedious process but
at least doable for a novice. Good luck.
One person found this helpful
Report abuse
--

Here is one that is called pass-through. I don\'t know why it would be
easier.
https://www.amazon.com/CHZHLM-Through-Connector-Connectors-Stripper/dp/B0B73Y5RS4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa

One of the images is a video (on the left), and shows \"crimping on a new head\".

It\'s just the first thing that showed up in a search, and has
no particular merits.

I\'ve never done one of those, so can\'t say how easy it is to
get a good termination.

Phone line was easy.
It just means you can stuff the wires one at a time into
the connector and it won\'t pop out of place.

The T368A and T368B thing is for rolled or straight-thru cabling.
I can tell this, by noting the reversal of 1,2 3,6 on the two connectors
in the depiction.

1,2 to 1,2 Straight-thru (most all of my cables are like this)
3,6 to 3,6

1,2 to 3,6 Rolled cable (only one spare is like this, haven\'t used in some time)
3,6 to 1,2 (Could have blue boot on one end, red boot on other end of cable)

Any more info than that, you\'ll have to look up. A rolled cable
might be used between a broadband modem and a router. Straight cables
tend to be used from router to PC or switch to PC. Doing direct PC to PC,
uses a rolled cable (only if both ends are limited to 10/100BT NICs).
GbE equipment has MDI/MDIX which can deal with either straight or
rolled cabling.

Paul
 
On 12/25/2022 9:02 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 25 Dec 2022 20:24:06 -0500, Paul
nospam@needed.invalid> wrote:

On 12/25/2022 9:04 AM, Andy Burns wrote:
Graham J wrote:

the barbs on RJ45 plugs do break off, rendering them useless.  They break because of inexpert handling - don\'t blame yourself, it happens to all of us!

When it happens, chop the lead in two with a vengeance and discard it, so you\'re not tempted to re-use it later \"just temporarily\" ...


You can chop the head off with a vengeance, then put another head on.
Just like that Frankenstein movie.

https://www.amazon.ca/Shahe-Ethernet-Network-Tester-Crimping/dp/B08LQ8QF4Q

Char, Paul, I was going to ask about this. I have one of these tools
that I bought for phone cords, but the place that holds the plug is wide
enough ethernet. I just need some connectors.

Mine is just plastic but it worked well. I think I have a professional
model I got at a hamfest or yard sale.

The comments are mostly positive, but this is one star:
this sucks, the blade doesn\'t trim wires properly and damages crystals, not worth the money. Wasted so much time on
installs just trying to trim a crystal properly

What is a crystal. The plastic end? Why is he trimming it?
---
Thhis is 4 stars but negative. It implies you should write down the
order of the wires before cutting off the original end.

Will probably work well…. but don’t buy
Reviewed in the United States on September 13, 2021
Model: 4in1 Tool KitVerified Purchase
That is, if you’ve never done this before. Instead, get a pass-through
crimper and plug set and your life will be easier. See, the cable wires

[What\'s that?]

you want to splice must be unraveled into the 8 individual data wires
and put into a specific color order to be inserted into the modular plug
and then crimped. (By the way, the video on the page shows the order for
only the rare, 568A configuration. Most systems call for the 568B
configuration which orders the wires differently. Be sure you know what
configuration you are working with before you order the wire colors. A
568B wire-order diagram is on the product page.) It’s not too difficult
to separate, smooth the wires, and get them into the right color order
when you’re working with two inches of the cable wires. But holding that
order in your fingers right next to the plastic cable sheathing,
clipping the wires down to a half inch and then inserting all of them
all into the plug at the same time is very difficult for a first timer
and takes a lot of practice (I assume). The problem is that the wires
terminate at the end of the plug. You can’t hold one wire in that
position while you mess with other wires that are misbehaving; and they

[I know. It was pretty easy for 4 wires, haven\'t tried more.]

will misbehave. The pass-through plugs help solve this by letting the
wires go in the back of the plug into their proper channel and then
extend out through the front end of the plug. This way you don’t have to
clip the wires before inserting them. You can actually insert one wire
at a time and when it passes through the front bend it so that it stays
put while you insert the next wire in the order (a procedure that
probably infuriates the purists). Once all the wires are inserted
through in the right order the special pass-through crimper not only
locks down the wires and sheathing, but also clips the excess wires in
front of the plug. You just have to be careful when inserting the wires
that you don’t skip a hole and end up one or two wires with no home.
You’ll also want to twist the end of the loose wires together after
their all in to get them through the crimping hole cleanly. Finally,
remember to slip the plug cover on the cable before you start working

[shoudln\'t be \"finally\". Should be first.]

with the wire. You can find the pass-through crimpers here on Amazon by
searching for them specifically. It will still be a tedious process but
at least doable for a novice. Good luck.
One person found this helpful
Report abuse
--

Here is one that is called pass-through. I don\'t know why it would be
easier.
https://www.amazon.com/CHZHLM-Through-Connector-Connectors-Stripper/dp/B0B73Y5RS4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa

One of the images is a video (on the left), and shows \"crimping on a new head\".

It\'s just the first thing that showed up in a search, and has
no particular merits.

I\'ve never done one of those, so can\'t say how easy it is to
get a good termination.

Phone line was easy.
It just means you can stuff the wires one at a time into
the connector and it won\'t pop out of place.

The T368A and T368B thing is for rolled or straight-thru cabling.
I can tell this, by noting the reversal of 1,2 3,6 on the two connectors
in the depiction.

1,2 to 1,2 Straight-thru (most all of my cables are like this)
3,6 to 3,6

1,2 to 3,6 Rolled cable (only one spare is like this, haven\'t used in some time)
3,6 to 1,2 (Could have blue boot on one end, red boot on other end of cable)

Any more info than that, you\'ll have to look up. A rolled cable
might be used between a broadband modem and a router. Straight cables
tend to be used from router to PC or switch to PC. Doing direct PC to PC,
uses a rolled cable (only if both ends are limited to 10/100BT NICs).
GbE equipment has MDI/MDIX which can deal with either straight or
rolled cabling.

Paul
 
On 12/19/2022 12:09 PM, micky wrote:
I wanted to get some waterproof/outdoor cameras that plugged into the
PC, or maybe something that connected straight to the PC.

But all I see for sale are cameras meant to clip to the monitor, not be
screwed to the wall.

Or if they are meant for outside, they are either wifi or they are meant
to go to some sort of separate video recorder.

Do they sell what I want?

I\'m not worried about burglars or porch thieves, I just want to look at
my yard when I\'m inside. There is some wildlife that spend time there,
but I have no window on that side of the room I spend a lot of time in,
and even if there wwere I window, I\'d have to stand up, leave my work at
my desk, stand on the bed and look down at the yard. I want to be able
to watch on the PC monitor instead. --- If I went outside, most of the
animals would run away

I hoped to have 3 cameras**. A real bonus would be if I could do
something like run all 3 into one hub and just run one wire through the
window frame or wall. (Darn, I found what they call a waterproof
enclosure for a 4-port hub, but it\'s showing just a regular $10 hub and
a box without only one usb jack. By Sabrent but Amazon has no ratings
and no Q&A. I\'ll keep looking, or make my own?)

It it possible to cut the the USB connector off of a cord, slide the
wire through a hole, cut the wire to the desired length, and reattach a
USB conector?

**One facing the front, one to the right of that, and one mounted a foot
or two away, around the corner of the house, facing the side yard.
Why use wired when Wi-Fi cameras are available? Google \"Wi-Fi outdoor
camera\". Add \"Solar\" for more. Battery replacement time depends on use.
If you have one outside light nearby can provide power from it.

Some info here:
https://www.bestbuy.com/discover-learn/top-8-things-to-know-about-solar-powered-security-cameras/pcmcat1637608496025
 
On 12/19/2022 12:09 PM, micky wrote:
I wanted to get some waterproof/outdoor cameras that plugged into the
PC, or maybe something that connected straight to the PC.

But all I see for sale are cameras meant to clip to the monitor, not be
screwed to the wall.

Or if they are meant for outside, they are either wifi or they are meant
to go to some sort of separate video recorder.

Do they sell what I want?

I\'m not worried about burglars or porch thieves, I just want to look at
my yard when I\'m inside. There is some wildlife that spend time there,
but I have no window on that side of the room I spend a lot of time in,
and even if there wwere I window, I\'d have to stand up, leave my work at
my desk, stand on the bed and look down at the yard. I want to be able
to watch on the PC monitor instead. --- If I went outside, most of the
animals would run away

I hoped to have 3 cameras**. A real bonus would be if I could do
something like run all 3 into one hub and just run one wire through the
window frame or wall. (Darn, I found what they call a waterproof
enclosure for a 4-port hub, but it\'s showing just a regular $10 hub and
a box without only one usb jack. By Sabrent but Amazon has no ratings
and no Q&A. I\'ll keep looking, or make my own?)

It it possible to cut the the USB connector off of a cord, slide the
wire through a hole, cut the wire to the desired length, and reattach a
USB conector?

**One facing the front, one to the right of that, and one mounted a foot
or two away, around the corner of the house, facing the side yard.
Why use wired when Wi-Fi cameras are available? Google \"Wi-Fi outdoor
camera\". Add \"Solar\" for more. Battery replacement time depends on use.
If you have one outside light nearby can provide power from it.

Some info here:
https://www.bestbuy.com/discover-learn/top-8-things-to-know-about-solar-powered-security-cameras/pcmcat1637608496025
 
On 12/19/2022 12:09 PM, micky wrote:
I wanted to get some waterproof/outdoor cameras that plugged into the
PC, or maybe something that connected straight to the PC.

But all I see for sale are cameras meant to clip to the monitor, not be
screwed to the wall.

Or if they are meant for outside, they are either wifi or they are meant
to go to some sort of separate video recorder.

Do they sell what I want?

I\'m not worried about burglars or porch thieves, I just want to look at
my yard when I\'m inside. There is some wildlife that spend time there,
but I have no window on that side of the room I spend a lot of time in,
and even if there wwere I window, I\'d have to stand up, leave my work at
my desk, stand on the bed and look down at the yard. I want to be able
to watch on the PC monitor instead. --- If I went outside, most of the
animals would run away

I hoped to have 3 cameras**. A real bonus would be if I could do
something like run all 3 into one hub and just run one wire through the
window frame or wall. (Darn, I found what they call a waterproof
enclosure for a 4-port hub, but it\'s showing just a regular $10 hub and
a box without only one usb jack. By Sabrent but Amazon has no ratings
and no Q&A. I\'ll keep looking, or make my own?)

It it possible to cut the the USB connector off of a cord, slide the
wire through a hole, cut the wire to the desired length, and reattach a
USB conector?

**One facing the front, one to the right of that, and one mounted a foot
or two away, around the corner of the house, facing the side yard.
Why use wired when Wi-Fi cameras are available? Google \"Wi-Fi outdoor
camera\". Add \"Solar\" for more. Battery replacement time depends on use.
If you have one outside light nearby can provide power from it.

Some info here:
https://www.bestbuy.com/discover-learn/top-8-things-to-know-about-solar-powered-security-cameras/pcmcat1637608496025
 
On Mon, 26 Dec 2022 05:05:36 -0500, Paul <nospam@needed.invalid> wrote:

>The T368A and T368B thing is for rolled or straight-thru cabling.

If both ends of a cable are 568A, or if both ends are 568B, it\'s a
straight-through cable. If one end of a cable is 568A and the other end
is 568B, it\'s a crossover cable, what you call rolled, below.

Crossover cables are very rarely needed these days. All of mine are long
gone. What\'s important is to pick a wiring standard and stick with it. I
use 568B, but that\'s just personal preference and momentum.

https://www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/t568a-vs-t568b


I can tell this, by noting the reversal of 1,2 3,6 on the two connectors
in the depiction.

1,2 to 1,2 Straight-thru (most all of my cables are like this)
3,6 to 3,6

1,2 to 3,6 Rolled cable (only one spare is like this, haven\'t used in some time)
3,6 to 1,2 (Could have blue boot on one end, red boot on other end of cable)

Any more info than that, you\'ll have to look up. A rolled cable
might be used between a broadband modem and a router. Straight cables
tend to be used from router to PC or switch to PC. Doing direct PC to PC,
uses a rolled cable (only if both ends are limited to 10/100BT NICs).
GbE equipment has MDI/MDIX which can deal with either straight or
rolled cabling.
 
On Mon, 26 Dec 2022 05:05:36 -0500, Paul <nospam@needed.invalid> wrote:

>The T368A and T368B thing is for rolled or straight-thru cabling.

If both ends of a cable are 568A, or if both ends are 568B, it\'s a
straight-through cable. If one end of a cable is 568A and the other end
is 568B, it\'s a crossover cable, what you call rolled, below.

Crossover cables are very rarely needed these days. All of mine are long
gone. What\'s important is to pick a wiring standard and stick with it. I
use 568B, but that\'s just personal preference and momentum.

https://www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/t568a-vs-t568b


I can tell this, by noting the reversal of 1,2 3,6 on the two connectors
in the depiction.

1,2 to 1,2 Straight-thru (most all of my cables are like this)
3,6 to 3,6

1,2 to 3,6 Rolled cable (only one spare is like this, haven\'t used in some time)
3,6 to 1,2 (Could have blue boot on one end, red boot on other end of cable)

Any more info than that, you\'ll have to look up. A rolled cable
might be used between a broadband modem and a router. Straight cables
tend to be used from router to PC or switch to PC. Doing direct PC to PC,
uses a rolled cable (only if both ends are limited to 10/100BT NICs).
GbE equipment has MDI/MDIX which can deal with either straight or
rolled cabling.
 
On Mon, 26 Dec 2022 05:05:36 -0500, Paul <nospam@needed.invalid> wrote:

>The T368A and T368B thing is for rolled or straight-thru cabling.

If both ends of a cable are 568A, or if both ends are 568B, it\'s a
straight-through cable. If one end of a cable is 568A and the other end
is 568B, it\'s a crossover cable, what you call rolled, below.

Crossover cables are very rarely needed these days. All of mine are long
gone. What\'s important is to pick a wiring standard and stick with it. I
use 568B, but that\'s just personal preference and momentum.

https://www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/t568a-vs-t568b


I can tell this, by noting the reversal of 1,2 3,6 on the two connectors
in the depiction.

1,2 to 1,2 Straight-thru (most all of my cables are like this)
3,6 to 3,6

1,2 to 3,6 Rolled cable (only one spare is like this, haven\'t used in some time)
3,6 to 1,2 (Could have blue boot on one end, red boot on other end of cable)

Any more info than that, you\'ll have to look up. A rolled cable
might be used between a broadband modem and a router. Straight cables
tend to be used from router to PC or switch to PC. Doing direct PC to PC,
uses a rolled cable (only if both ends are limited to 10/100BT NICs).
GbE equipment has MDI/MDIX which can deal with either straight or
rolled cabling.
 
On Mon, 26 Dec 2022 06:29:32 +0000, Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>
wrote:

Char Jackson wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

When it happens, chop the lead in two with a vengeance and discard it, so you\'re
not tempted to re-use it later \"just temporarily\" ...

That seems drastic. I\'ve successfully used Ethernet cables where the
barb has fallen off, including one cable that has been barbless for a
number of years.

And then one day, someone is doing the hoovering, or kicks a desk, or a pet gets
round the back, and something stops working ... if you can retuerminate it with
a new plug, sure but patch cables are cheap, stuff not working is frequently
expensive ...

I suppose it could be annoying if a connection comes loose, but it\'s not
like it causes any damage. Just push the plug in and carry on, right? I
get your point, though. One of these years I\'ll probably replace my
barbless cables (or more likely just snip the connector and crimp a new
one). They\'re not causing any problems, though, so it could be a while.
 
On Mon, 26 Dec 2022 06:29:32 +0000, Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>
wrote:

Char Jackson wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

When it happens, chop the lead in two with a vengeance and discard it, so you\'re
not tempted to re-use it later \"just temporarily\" ...

That seems drastic. I\'ve successfully used Ethernet cables where the
barb has fallen off, including one cable that has been barbless for a
number of years.

And then one day, someone is doing the hoovering, or kicks a desk, or a pet gets
round the back, and something stops working ... if you can retuerminate it with
a new plug, sure but patch cables are cheap, stuff not working is frequently
expensive ...

I suppose it could be annoying if a connection comes loose, but it\'s not
like it causes any damage. Just push the plug in and carry on, right? I
get your point, though. One of these years I\'ll probably replace my
barbless cables (or more likely just snip the connector and crimp a new
one). They\'re not causing any problems, though, so it could be a while.
 
On Mon, 26 Dec 2022 06:29:32 +0000, Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>
wrote:

Char Jackson wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

When it happens, chop the lead in two with a vengeance and discard it, so you\'re
not tempted to re-use it later \"just temporarily\" ...

That seems drastic. I\'ve successfully used Ethernet cables where the
barb has fallen off, including one cable that has been barbless for a
number of years.

And then one day, someone is doing the hoovering, or kicks a desk, or a pet gets
round the back, and something stops working ... if you can retuerminate it with
a new plug, sure but patch cables are cheap, stuff not working is frequently
expensive ...

I suppose it could be annoying if a connection comes loose, but it\'s not
like it causes any damage. Just push the plug in and carry on, right? I
get your point, though. One of these years I\'ll probably replace my
barbless cables (or more likely just snip the connector and crimp a new
one). They\'re not causing any problems, though, so it could be a while.
 

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