magnetic field

And you are pulling more than 30 amps? I would verify that you are indeed
pulling that much amperage before continuing to troubleshoot. I have
installed many a remote start in older suburbans and have never had that
problem.

NH


"Tyson Howard" <blach@sdflkj.com> wrote in message
news:Xns94E1AF7A5861blahblahcom@65.24.7.150...
I went through the ignition harness coming out of the steering wheel.

"ATS" <me@nospam.org> wrote in news:109l89teg4loa96@corp.supernews.com:

You, should never have to pass that much amperage to start the
vehicle with
the remote start. As MikeM said, go to the steering column for your
connections.


NH




"MikeM" <trashcan@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:c7e76r$869$1@coward.ks.cc.utah.edu...
Tyson Howard wrote:

I just installed a remote starter into my 1990 Chevy Suburban. It
worked for a while, then it would not start remotely anymore. I
found that the
30-
amp fuse in the remote starter was blown. I am assuming that my
truck requires more than 30 amps to start the vehicle. I decided to
use an external relay to do it, but the largest auto relays I can
find are
30-amp.
Is it possible to wire 2 of these in parallel (obviously with a
fuse inline) to avoid damage to the relays? If not, what is a good
source of higher than 30 amp relays that I can use to do this?

Are you routing the starter motor cable through the relay?

If so, why?

The key switch contacts in the steering column can do the job
while passing less than an Amp or two.

MikeM
Click to expand...
 
I may not be. It may have just been a bum fuse. I will replace the fuse
and see what happens.



"ATS" <me@nospam.org> wrote in news:109lc0ep2ukt55e@corp.supernews.com:

And you are pulling more than 30 amps? I would verify that you are
indeed
pulling that much amperage before continuing to troubleshoot. I have
installed many a remote start in older suburbans and have never had
that problem.

NH


"Tyson Howard" <blach@sdflkj.com> wrote in message
news:Xns94E1AF7A5861blahblahcom@65.24.7.150...
I went through the ignition harness coming out of the steering wheel.

"ATS" <me@nospam.org> wrote in
news:109l89teg4loa96@corp.supernews.com:

You, should never have to pass that much amperage to start the
vehicle with
the remote start. As MikeM said, go to the steering column for your
connections.


NH




"MikeM" <trashcan@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:c7e76r$869$1@coward.ks.cc.utah.edu...
Tyson Howard wrote:

I just installed a remote starter into my 1990 Chevy Suburban.
It worked for a while, then it would not start remotely anymore.
I found that the
30-
amp fuse in the remote starter was blown. I am assuming that my
truck requires more than 30 amps to start the vehicle. I decided
to use an external relay to do it, but the largest auto relays I
can find are
30-amp.
Is it possible to wire 2 of these in parallel (obviously with a
fuse inline) to avoid damage to the relays? If not, what is a
good source of higher than 30 amp relays that I can use to do
this?

Are you routing the starter motor cable through the relay?

If so, why?

The key switch contacts in the steering column can do the job
while passing less than an Amp or two.

MikeM
Click to expand...
 
You can always usa a FORD Starter Relay!! I know it's not GMC but it is
readily available and will control the necessary current load you are
playing with. Be advised, be sure that the starter is in good condition and
not drawing excessive current under load.
"Tyson Howard" <blach@sdflkj.com> wrote in message
news:Xns94E1A45F18CD5blahblahcom@65.24.7.50...
I just installed a remote starter into my 1990 Chevy Suburban. It worked
for a while, then it would not start remotely anymore. I found that the
30-
amp fuse in the remote starter was blown. I am assuming that my truck
requires more than 30 amps to start the vehicle. I decided to use an
external relay to do it, but the largest auto relays I can find are
30-amp.
Is it possible to wire 2 of these in parallel (obviously with a fuse
inline) to avoid damage to the relays? If not, what is a good source of
higher than 30 amp relays that I can use to do this?
Click to expand...
 
Tim Wescott <tim@wescottnospamdesign.com> wrote in
news:109lgt9qatessb9@corp.supernews.com:

Tyson Howard wrote:

I just installed a remote starter into my 1990 Chevy Suburban. It
worked for a while, then it would not start remotely anymore. I found
that the 30- amp fuse in the remote starter was blown. I am assuming
that my truck requires more than 30 amps to start the vehicle. I
decided to use an external relay to do it, but the largest auto
relays I can find are 30-amp. Is it possible to wire 2 of these in
parallel (obviously with a fuse inline) to avoid damage to the
relays? If not, what is a good source of higher than 30 amp relays
that I can use to do this?

What's the fuse rating to the ignition key? I don't think your
solenoid should pull more than 30 amps.

And if you're replacing that cable as big as your thumb that goes to
the solenoid you're putting the circuit in the wrong place!
Click to expand...
The wire I am connecting it to is about 18 gauge or so. Maybe 16. Haven't
checked that fuse to the key yet. I think I may have just had a bum fuse
in the remote starter.
 
Tyson Howard wrote:

I just installed a remote starter into my 1990 Chevy Suburban. It worked
for a while, then it would not start remotely anymore. I found that the 30-
amp fuse in the remote starter was blown. I am assuming that my truck
requires more than 30 amps to start the vehicle. I decided to use an
external relay to do it, but the largest auto relays I can find are 30-amp.
Is it possible to wire 2 of these in parallel (obviously with a fuse
inline) to avoid damage to the relays? If not, what is a good source of
higher than 30 amp relays that I can use to do this?
Click to expand...
What's the fuse rating to the ignition key? I don't think your solenoid
should pull more than 30 amps.

And if you're replacing that cable as big as your thumb that goes to the
solenoid you're putting the circuit in the wrong place!

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com
 
"Tyson Howard" <blach@sdflkj.com> wrote in message
news:Xns94E1A45F18CD5blahblahcom@65.24.7.50...
I just installed a remote starter into my 1990 Chevy Suburban. It worked
for a while, then it would not start remotely anymore. I found that the
30-
amp fuse in the remote starter was blown. I am assuming that my truck
requires more than 30 amps to start the vehicle. I decided to use an
external relay to do it, but the largest auto relays I can find are
30-amp.
Is it possible to wire 2 of these in parallel (obviously with a fuse
inline) to avoid damage to the relays? If not, what is a good source of
higher than 30 amp relays that I can use to do this?
Click to expand...
 
"Tyson Howard" <blach@sdflkj.com> wrote in message
news:Xns94E1A45F18CD5blahblahcom@65.24.7.50...
I just installed a remote starter into my 1990 Chevy Suburban. It worked
for a while, then it would not start remotely anymore. I found that the
30-
amp fuse in the remote starter was blown. I am assuming that my truck
requires more than 30 amps to start the vehicle. I decided to use an
external relay to do it, but the largest auto relays I can find are
30-amp.
Is it possible to wire 2 of these in parallel (obviously with a fuse
inline) to avoid damage to the relays? If not, what is a good source of
higher than 30 amp relays that I can use to do this?
Click to expand...
Have you checked with the folks you got the remote starter from?

Good Luck
Rich
 
My apologies to the newsgroup for posting this to the wrong newsgroup.
Mea culpa. It is posted to the alt.binaries.schematics.electronic
group if you are interested.
 
"Tyson Howard" <blach@sdflkj.com> wrote in message
news:Xns94E1A45F18CD5blahblahcom@65.24.7.50...
I just installed a remote starter into my 1990 Chevy Suburban. It
worked
for a while, then it would not start remotely anymore. I found that
the 30-
amp fuse in the remote starter was blown. I
Click to expand...
30A is way too much current for the starter solenoid to be drawing. I
would look for an intermittent short circuit. Installing car wiring
that lasts can sometimes be tricky. It doesn't take long for a wire to
wear thru it's insulation if it's "flopping" around under the dash and
rubbing on something.
 
Tyson Howard wrote:
I just installed a remote starter into my 1990 Chevy Suburban. It worked
for a while, then it would not start remotely anymore. I found that the 30-
amp fuse in the remote starter was blown. I am assuming that my truck
requires more than 30 amps to start the vehicle. I decided to use an
external relay to do it, but the largest auto relays I can find are 30-amp.
Is it possible to wire 2 of these in parallel (obviously with a fuse
inline) to avoid damage to the relays? If not, what is a good source of
higher than 30 amp relays that I can use to do this?
Click to expand...
http://www.allelectronics.com
CAT# RLY-630
$2.25
30 amp closed contact, 40 amp open contact.

Personally, I'd diagnose the problem first.
I get worried when problems are bypassed,
rather than solved.
 
Did you leave the vehicle in gear???

Why are you using relays to start it?

I would use a relay to energise the starter solenoid.

Regards, Gordon.

-------------------------------
"Tyson Howard" <blach@sdflkj.com> wrote in message
news:Xns94E1A45F18CD5blahblahcom@65.24.7.50...
I just installed a remote starter into my 1990 Chevy Suburban. It worked
for a while, then it would not start remotely anymore. I found that the
30-
amp fuse in the remote starter was blown. I am assuming that my truck
requires more than 30 amps to start the vehicle. I decided to use an
external relay to do it, but the largest auto relays I can find are
30-amp.
Is it possible to wire 2 of these in parallel (obviously with a fuse
inline) to avoid damage to the relays? If not, what is a good source of
higher than 30 amp relays that I can use to do this?
Click to expand...
 
paralleling two relays won't work, because they won't switch at the same
instant, so there's always one that the takes the current, while the other
has nothing to do.
There are 70Amp relays out there, usually for switching diesel glowplugs
etc.


"Tyson Howard" <blach@sdflkj.com> schreef in bericht
news:Xns94E1A45F18CD5blahblahcom@65.24.7.50...
I just installed a remote starter into my 1990 Chevy Suburban. It worked
for a while, then it would not start remotely anymore. I found that the
30-
amp fuse in the remote starter was blown. I am assuming that my truck
requires more than 30 amps to start the vehicle. I decided to use an
external relay to do it, but the largest auto relays I can find are
30-amp.
Is it possible to wire 2 of these in parallel (obviously with a fuse
inline) to avoid damage to the relays? If not, what is a good source of
higher than 30 amp relays that I can use to do this?
Click to expand...
 
"Gordon Youd" <gordon@Zgyoud.demon.co.uk> wrote in news:c7j20q$ol5$1
$8300dec7@news.demon.co.uk:

Did you leave the vehicle in gear???
Click to expand...
No

Why are you using relays to start it?
Click to expand...
I am not currently. I believe I just had a bad fuse, as I have replaced
it and everything is working perfectly now.

I would use a relay to energise the starter solenoid.

Regards, Gordon.

-------------------------------
"Tyson Howard" <blach@sdflkj.com> wrote in message
news:Xns94E1A45F18CD5blahblahcom@65.24.7.50...
I just installed a remote starter into my 1990 Chevy Suburban. It
worked
for a while, then it would not start remotely anymore. I found that
the
30-
amp fuse in the remote starter was blown. I am assuming that my truck
requires more than 30 amps to start the vehicle. I decided to use an
external relay to do it, but the largest auto relays I can find are
30-amp.
Is it possible to wire 2 of these in parallel (obviously with a fuse
inline) to avoid damage to the relays? If not, what is a good source
of
higher than 30 amp relays that I can use to do this?
Click to expand...
 
I poke around in sci.electronics.misc a lot just out of interest. The
other crossposted newsgroups I generally don't. See you 'round
comp.cad.solidworks Wayne.

'Sporky'

Wayne Tiffany wrote:
Hey Sporky, how long have you trolled here also? :)

WT
Click to expand...
 
Subject: I need help with this simple amplifier design
Click to expand...
What help? you have no feedback! I suggest you have a look at some amp designs
to see how it's usually done.
 
<newsgroups trimmed>

Gordon Hudson wrote:

I think the regularity of the edge of the hole makes a difference.
Click to expand...
I did quite a bit of work on this for a project a few years back and
you're quite right. Thickness of material used is also critical, the
thinner the better to avoid internal reflections. But the most important
factor is the actual size of the pinhole in relation to the "focal
length" - pinhole to film/sensor distance. I've a table somewhere of the
optimum sizes if anyone's interested.
Scrub that, I've just found a link to a calculator:
http://www.mrpinhole.com/holesize.php

The method I finally came up with for making perfect pinholes of exact
sizes, with negligable wall thickness was to photograph a black dot on a
white background with lith film. This negative image was then used as a
"virtual" pinhole with very impressive results.
 
On Sat, 29 May 2004 07:59:43 -0700, Jim Thompson
<thegreatone@example.com> wrote:

On 28 May 2004 23:14:56 -0700, Robin@HimalayanHandicraft.org (Robin)
wrote:

Hello All,

I do some volunteer work that provides rural villagers in Nepal with
WiFi communication (See http://NepalWireless.net if you are
interested). As part of this work, we need to develop a human powered
generator to charge our solar batteries when there is no sun for
months on end. Is a car alternator and a bicycle a possibility? How
much current/voltage does a typical alternator produce and what RPM is
necessary? These are both readily available in Nepal, so they would
be idea. Thanks very much.

Robin Shields

Absolutely! I worked on the electronics for an exercise bicycle that
used an alternator as a variable physical load AND provided the power
for the circuits.

...Jim Thompson
Click to expand...

I built one of these as a prototype for a cycling club training
device. It worked very well. The guts to it was a frame that a
10-speed bike could rest in, and place the back wheel over a heavy 4
or 5 inch diameter SOLID cylinder, that was pulley coupled to an
ordinary automobile alternator. The cylinder provided inertia to
simulate cyclist mass, and to minimize effort during pedal pushes.
I used some programmable devices to vary the load to simulate wind,
hills etc. For reasonably skillful cyclists (or for high speed rpm's
on the back wheel), you don't even need a frame, the bicycle will
balance naturally. Even better is if you couple an additional cylinder
from the back cylinder to the front bike wheel, and you can "ride" the
bicycle free of any frame.
If I remember correctly, it is not unreasonable for a cyclist that
is in good shape to do about 1/4 HP for about an hour or two, with
peaks up to 1 HP.
I never did it, but I considered running a TV off the alternator,
and the cyclist would watch a movie. If he slacked, the TV would dim.
If he was energetic, a low capacity battery would be connected, so
that the excess power would allow him some rest intervals.
If a cyclist ran 1/4 HP (about 15-16 Amps at 12 volts DC), he could
fully charge a reasonable car battery (70 AH) in about 4 to 5 hours.
He might need a second person to substitute when he got tired.
In a remote area, this would power transcievers, TV's, cell phone
chargers and other 'useful' devices, and would be far faster and far
cheaper than solar cells. Repair and replacement would be low-tech,
just grab another alternator and belt from another car. Practically
everything you need for repair or building is available from typical
cars. In my case, the trickiest item was the heavy cylinder(s) needed
to simulate "the road".
It is definitely "do-able", fairly easy to make, and performs well.
Make sure that a decent 12 volt fan is used to cool the cyclist, along
with copious amounts of water!

-Paul


...............................................................
Paul
Somewhere in the Nova Scotia fog
ANTISPAM - Please remove the m's in my email address
 
On 2004-06-03, Kevin Aylward <kevin.aylwardEXTRACT@anasoft.co.uk> wrote:
Why?. What do you mean by "greats"

Electronics is simply not on a par with say, physics. There are lots of
truly trivial circuits which are essentially, the *first* things that
would randamly pop into peoples minds, yet have names attached to them
as if such circuits are a measure of that named persons worth.
Click to expand...

Uh...it's like that in Physics, too. The Kronecker delta comes to mind:
delta sub{i,j} is a symbol that's defined to be 1 if i = j, zero
otherwise. And Kronecker's name is enshrined forever. (As well it
should be, by the way...it's just that the thing it's attached to
happens to be trivial).

And then there's the Levi-Civita symbol, epsilon sub{i,j,k} which
is +1 or -1 according to whether (i,j,k) is an even or odd permutation
of (1,2,3), and zero if any two of (i,j,k) are the same.

And the list goes on. The Kronecker delta and the Levi-Civita symbol
got those names not because they were brilliant discoveries, but
because they needed a name, and attaching the name of the people
who were working on them made sense. It's no coincidence that these
people also did lots *else*, often of far greater importance.

(To touch on a few others, there are Sylvester's Law of Inertia,
Gauss's constant, Hermitian matrices, the Pauli spin matrices (which
were just a rewriting of Hamilton's unit basis for the quaternions),
the Einstein summation convention, etc.; and if you're willing to
move a little further, there's the Shannon Sampling Theorem)

When you do a thousand things, some interesting, some pedestrian,
the pedestrian ones are the ones most likely to be encountered
by lots of people, and to need naming. That's life.

-John Hughes
 
The shit who post this shit should all be bagged and hung upside
down at Guantanamo till they confess what they intend by this crap!

-Steve
--
-Steve Walz rstevew@armory.com ftp://ftp.armory.com/pub/user/rstevew
Electronics Site!! 1000's of Files and Dirs!! With Schematics Galore!!
http://www.armory.com/~rstevew or http://www.armory.com/~rstevew/Public
 
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