magnetic field

Calex makes a wide range of DC/DC converters (www.calex.com)
I use them in heavy equipment, where the power systems are
pretty primiive. The unit that would fit your needs is:
Calex 12S5.15HE This is a 12V nominal input (9 to 18VDC),
5V @ 15A converter.
 
David Morris wrote:

Does anyone know of a way of etching PCBs (from plans printed off a
computer) using a PCB pen (the kind you get in budget PCB-etch sets).
I'm having problems lining up the tracks accurately enough to fit things
like ICs in.
Thanks in advance

David Morris



If you're willing to spend an extra few bucks for the photographic
method, I would suggest you do. This method is so simple and easy and
effective for home brew boards. The results are just great.

Just print on transparent paper, and then expose and process. You don't
even need an "exposure kit", just the developer will do to start.

Here's a picture of one of the simple boards I've done:
http://luna.forums.ws/bfoster/printer/prn2.jpg
 
On Wed, 27 Aug 2003 13:24:35 +0100 in sci.electronics.misc,
"David Morris" <davidr.morris@virgin.net> wrote:

Does anyone know of a way of etching PCBs (from plans printed off a
computer) using a PCB pen (the kind you get in budget PCB-etch sets).
Give it up, those pens are all crap.

Go to a good art supply store and get a Staedtler Lumocolor 313
(red) pen. Accept no substitute.
 
Brett Foster wrote:
David Morris wrote:

Does anyone know of a way of etching PCBs (from plans printed off a
computer) using a PCB pen (the kind you get in budget PCB-etch sets).
I'm having problems lining up the tracks accurately enough to fit things
like ICs in.
Thanks in advance

David Morris



If you're willing to spend an extra few bucks for the photographic
method, I would suggest you do. This method is so simple and easy and
effective for home brew boards. The results are just great.

Just print on transparent paper, and then expose and process. You don't
even need an "exposure kit", just the developer will do to start.

Here's a picture of one of the simple boards I've done:
http://luna.forums.ws/bfoster/printer/prn2.jpg
Laser print and acetone transfer.

Pinholes, etc., are inevitable. Use nail polish to touch up before
etching.
 
In message <bii9tf$a004v$1@ID-184277.news.uni-berlin.de>
Brett Foster <spam@hotmail.com> wrote:

Here's a picture of one of the simple boards I've done:
http://luna.forums.ws/bfoster/printer/prn2.jpg
Brett,
Just out of curiosity, what is that board? A thermal printer module?

Thanks.
--
Phil. | Acorn RiscPC600 Mk3, SA202, 64MB, 6GB,
philpem@despammed.com (valid address)| ViewFinder, Ethernet (Acorn AEH62),
http://www.philpem.dsl.pipex.com/ | 8xCD, framegrabber, Teletext
.... Gender is irrelevant. Resistance turns me on.
 
On Thu, 28 Aug 2003 16:57:18 +0100, Terry Pinnell <terrypinDELETE@dial.pipexTHIS.com> wrote:

"Mjolinor" <mjolinor@hotmail.com> wrote:

The button is not quite round if you look from above. With the flat side
upwards so it's like a "U" there is a small clipthat is part of the button
holding the button into it's housing, this cli[p is to the left of the flat
area, or, if youi prefer, towards you if you are vacumning.

Bit hard to explain that, if you dont understand then post again and I'll
have another go.

OK never mind

http://www.dknpowerline.com/Pictures/Dyson.jpg

stick a thin shim thing down where I put the arrow and lift the button

Many thanks, appreciate your help. Based on your advice, I was
eventually able to get yellow button off (paper knife, fair bit of
force - nervously!). But unfortunately that doesn't give me access to
the cable side of the switch as I'd hoped. Here's what I see:
http://www.terrypin.dial.pipex.com/Images/DysonSwitch.jpg

Do you know what that screw does? I'm reluctant to remove it in case
soemthing drops down inside.
In situations like this, you can usually just loosen a screw and see what starts moviing, before you
get to the point of no return....!
 
Philip Pemberton wrote:

In message <bii9tf$a004v$1@ID-184277.news.uni-berlin.de
Brett Foster <spam@hotmail.com> wrote:


Here's a picture of one of the simple boards I've done:
http://luna.forums.ws/bfoster/printer/prn2.jpg

Brett,
Just out of curiosity, what is that board? A thermal printer module?
Yuppers. I bought these bulk thermal modules from a surplus store a
while back.

 
In message <bime22$atjl7$2@ID-184277.news.uni-berlin.de>
Brett Foster <spam@hotmail.com> wrote:

Yuppers. I bought these bulk thermal modules from a surplus store a
while back.
That thermal module looks like a Seiko Instruments MTP401-40B. I've got
Seiko's datasheet but I'd be very interested in how the driver firmware for
that printer was written, especially if you wrote it for a Microchip PIC
series microcontroller.

I've got three Seiko modules that look exactly like the one in the photos on
your website. I'd be interested if you knew where I could get some thermal
paper suitable for the MTP401 and some connectors for the thermal head cable
and the motor control cable.

Would you mind contacting me via email? The despammed address is valid; if
you want to avoid the spam filter, replace "despammed" with "dsl.pipex". I'm
guessing spam@hotmail.com is a dud email address.

Thanks.
--
Phil. | Acorn RiscPC600 Mk3, SA202, 64MB, 6GB,
philpem@despammed.com (valid address)| ViewFinder, Ethernet (Acorn AEH62),
http://www.philpem.dsl.pipex.com/ | 8xCD, framegrabber, Teletext
Acme Dynamite. Guaranteed to fail unsafe.
 
This might get you in the ballpark:
http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/Circuits/Misc/emf.htm


"Michael D. Pinho Sr." <res1fen4@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:XLg3b.13419$Jq1.7954@nwrddc03.gnilink.net...
Does anyone have a schematic for a trifield meter, would really
appreciate it. Thank you.
 
And several others:
http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/Circuits/Testgear/emmeter.htm

http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/Circuits/Testgear/mgausmeter.htm

http://www.electro-tech-online.com/viewtopic.php?t=67


"Michael D. Pinho Sr." <res1fen4@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:XLg3b.13419$Jq1.7954@nwrddc03.gnilink.net...
Does anyone have a schematic for a trifield meter, would really
appreciate it. Thank you.
 
In article <vl2aim39gghj73@corp.supernews.com>,
fandanospam@catskill.net mentioned...
And several others:
http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/Circuits/Testgear/emmeter.htm

http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/Circuits/Testgear/mgausmeter.htm
Better, at least it has some relative indication of strength on the
meter. But still measures only EM fields, nothing else.

http://www.electro-tech-online.com/viewtopic.php?t=67
Won't allow access unless you have a password.


"Michael D. Pinho Sr." <res1fen4@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:XLg3b.13419$Jq1.7954@nwrddc03.gnilink.net...
Does anyone have a schematic for a trifield meter, would really
appreciate it. Thank you.
--
@@F@r@o@m@@O@r@a@n@g@e@@C@o@u@n@t@y@,@@C@a@l@,@@w@h@e@r@e@@
###Got a Question about ELECTRONICS? Check HERE First:###
http://users.pandora.be/educypedia/electronics/databank.htm
My email address is whitelisted. *All* email sent to it
goes directly to the trash unless you add NOSPAM in the
Subject: line with other stuff. alondra101 <at> hotmail.com
Don't be ripped off by the big book dealers. Go to the URL
that will give you a choice and save you money(up to half).
http://www.everybookstore.com You'll be glad you did!
Just when you thought you had all this figured out, the gov't
changed it: http://physics.nist.gov/cuu/Units/binary.html
@@t@h@e@@a@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@m@e@e@t@@t@h@e@@E@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@
 
On Sun, 31 Aug 2003 09:43:28 +0100, Watson A.Name - Watt Sun wrote:

In article <vl29glgn2713cc@corp.supernews.com>, fandanospam@catskill.net
mentioned...
This might get you in the ballpark:
http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/Circuits/Misc/emf.htm

But it doesn't have any relative indication at all; it needs a meter.
And it only detects EM, but not electrostatic fields.
If you're really serious about EM fields, take a look at:

www.ee.nmt.edu/~langmuir/E100/E100.htm

--
Then there's duct tape ...
(Garrison Keillor)
nofr@sbhevre.pbzchyvax.pb.hx
 
On Sun, 31 Aug 2003 13:46:35 +0100, Fred Abse wrote:


If you're really serious about EM fields, take a look at:

www.ee.nmt.edu/~langmuir/E100/E100.htm
s/EM/electrostatic

--
Then there's duct tape ...
(Garrison Keillor)
nofr@sbhevre.pbzchyvax.pb.hx
 
In article <pan.2003.08.31.12.24.42.234984.875@cerebrumconfus.it>,
excretatauris@cerebrumconfus.it mentioned...
On Sun, 31 Aug 2003 09:43:28 +0100, Watson A.Name - Watt Sun wrote:

In article <vl29glgn2713cc@corp.supernews.com>, fandanospam@catskill.net
mentioned...
This might get you in the ballpark:
http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/Circuits/Misc/emf.htm

But it doesn't have any relative indication at all; it needs a meter.
And it only detects EM, but not electrostatic fields.

If you're really serious about EM fields, take a look at:

www.ee.nmt.edu/~langmuir/E100/E100.htm
I got Not Found error.




--
@@F@r@o@m@@O@r@a@n@g@e@@C@o@u@n@t@y@,@@C@a@l@,@@w@h@e@r@e@@
###Got a Question about ELECTRONICS? Check HERE First:###
http://users.pandora.be/educypedia/electronics/databank.htm
My email address is whitelisted. *All* email sent to it
goes directly to the trash unless you add NOSPAM in the
Subject: line with other stuff. alondra101 <at> hotmail.com
Don't be ripped off by the big book dealers. Go to the URL
that will give you a choice and save you money(up to half).
http://www.everybookstore.com You'll be glad you did!
Just when you thought you had all this figured out, the gov't
changed it: http://physics.nist.gov/cuu/Units/binary.html
@@t@h@e@@a@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@m@e@e@t@@t@h@e@@E@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@
 
Is it possible that TV's are designed to be double insulated so that they
don't have (and don't need ) a ground connection?

Unplug the TV and try measuring the resistance between the earth pin on the
wall plug and the aerial socket outer. If that's open circuit then they
probably are double insulated. In which case all you are seeing is a bit of
mains pickup - your TV aren't "feeding voltage into the system" at all.






"Jim Y" <j.s.yablonsky@NOSPAMatt.net> wrote in message
news:UOy4b.123142$3o3.8656931@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
I am not an electrician or electrical engineer, but have questions for
those of you who are.

I have been having problems with my telephone. My telephone and TV cable
are connected (in some
manner) from Comcast. Comcast sent a technician out and he discovered my
television sets were
feeding voltage into the system. He said the device is not designed to
take voltage from the
output side of the box. Their connecting box (I have no idea what it is
called) converts one
type of signal to another for both telephone and television reception.

One TV (kitchen counter) had approximately 64 volts AC between the cable
antenna sheathing and
the wall circuit ground. (All of my wall outlets are properly grounded
and were recently
checked by an electrician.) After the technician left, I dug out my
multimeter and tested it
myself. I disconnected the cable from the kitchen TV and placed one test
lead on the threaded
portion of the TV connector and one test lead in the ground opening of the
wall outlet. The TV
was still plugged in to the wall outlet naturally. The voltage fluctuated
between 62 and 68
volts. Unplugging the TV loses the voltage as expected.

The technician checked the other TV sets in my home and found they all had
a voltage across the
same ground connections but in the 8 to 20 volt range. He made some
wiring changes to the
outside connection box and said the cable feed now bypassed the phone
connection so I should no
longer have the problem on the my phone.

My questions are:
Why is there a potential across the grounded antenna shielding and the
outlet ground?
Is this normal?
Why so high on one TV?
Should I consider replacing the TV with the high voltage?
Is this a dangerous situation? I am concerned.

Thank you,
Jim Y
 
"Jim Y" <j.s.yablonsky@NOSPAMatt.net> wrote in message
news:UOy4b.123142$3o3.8656931@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
I am not an electrician or electrical engineer, but have questions for
those of you who are.

I have been having problems with my telephone. My telephone and TV cable
are connected (in some
manner) from Comcast. Comcast sent a technician out and he discovered my
television sets were
feeding voltage into the system. He said the device is not designed to
take voltage from the
output side of the box. Their connecting box (I have no idea what it is
called) converts one
type of signal to another for both telephone and television reception.

One TV (kitchen counter) had approximately 64 volts AC between the cable
antenna sheathing and
the wall circuit ground. (All of my wall outlets are properly grounded
and were recently
checked by an electrician.) After the technician left, I dug out my
multimeter and tested it
myself. I disconnected the cable from the kitchen TV and placed one test
lead on the threaded
portion of the TV connector and one test lead in the ground opening of the
wall outlet. The TV
was still plugged in to the wall outlet naturally. The voltage fluctuated
between 62 and 68
volts. Unplugging the TV loses the voltage as expected.

The technician checked the other TV sets in my home and found they all had
a voltage across the
same ground connections but in the 8 to 20 volt range. He made some
wiring changes to the
outside connection box and said the cable feed now bypassed the phone
connection so I should no
longer have the problem on the my phone.

My questions are:
Why is there a potential across the grounded antenna shielding and the
outlet ground?
Is this normal?
Why so high on one TV?
Should I consider replacing the TV with the high voltage?
Is this a dangerous situation? I am concerned.

Thank you,
Jim Y
Today's TV sets have one side of the AC input connected to the internal
circuit board and its components. The TV should have a polarity plug (the
neutral prong is wider) to the AC wall outlet. The cable input is an
isolation device from the AC input. The TV technician has to check the Cable
input with a leakage tester, and it must show less < .05ma! You may have one
or both of the following problems: The cable input connector (isolating
device) has become defective, allowing excessive current to flow. And you
need to check your wall outlet, that it is wired correctly! Get an outlet
tester (cheap <$10) that checks for proper wiring! The Hot and Neutral wires
may be reversed! In any case the Balun transformer (TV input- connector
isolating device) is likely to be bad! Take the TV to a qualified
technician, this can be a fatal shock hazard!!!

Note that testing the cable connector to ground for voltage as you did, is
not an accurate test. Even a good TV may show some voltage with a high
impedance DVM meter! Also checking in this manor for current is not
accurate, a leakage tester is the best way to test. Alternately there is a
small circuit that can be made to test for this, but I won't get into that
now.
 
In article <UOy4b.123142$3o3.8656931@bgtnsc05-
news.ops.worldnet.att.net>, j.s.yablonsky@NOSPAMatt.net mentioned...
I am not an electrician or electrical engineer, but have questions for those of you who are.

I have been having problems with my telephone. My telephone and TV cable are connected (in some
manner) from Comcast. Comcast sent a technician out and he discovered my television sets were
feeding voltage into the system. He said the device is not designed to take voltage from the
output side of the box. Their connecting box (I have no idea what it is called) converts one
type of signal to another for both telephone and television reception.

One TV (kitchen counter) had approximately 64 volts AC between the cable antenna sheathing and
the wall circuit ground. (All of my wall outlets are properly grounded and were recently
checked by an electrician.) After the technician left, I dug out my multimeter and tested it
myself. I disconnected the cable from the kitchen TV and placed one test lead on the threaded
portion of the TV connector and one test lead in the ground opening of the wall outlet. The TV
was still plugged in to the wall outlet naturally. The voltage fluctuated between 62 and 68
volts. Unplugging the TV loses the voltage as expected.

The technician checked the other TV sets in my home and found they all had a voltage across the
same ground connections but in the 8 to 20 volt range. He made some wiring changes to the
outside connection box and said the cable feed now bypassed the phone connection so I should no
longer have the problem on the my phone.

My questions are:
Why is there a potential across the grounded antenna shielding and the outlet ground?
Is this normal?
Somewhat. The usual method of wiring a TV or radio with a two prong
power plug is to use a capacitor between each side of the AC line and
the chassis. That makes the chassis at about half the AC line
voltage.

Why so high on one TV?
The usual TV antenna jack has a coil of wire across the pins, and the
signal is coupled to the TV thru this magnetic coupling so there's no
electrical connection. But there has to be a way for static charge to
bleed off the antenna and coax, so the TV has a 1 or more meg resistor
between the antenna jack and the chassis. So if you measure, with a
high impedance DMM, the voltage from jack to the AC ground, you should
get something like 60VAC. In your case, the resistor may have changed
to a lower value so that a lot more current is flowing thru to the
chassis. This resistor should measure what the marked value is, or
else it should be changed.

Should I consider replacing the TV with the high voltage?
Is this a dangerous situation? I am concerned.
Another alternative is to use a pair of ceramic capacitors to isolate
the antenna from the jack.

330 pF 1kV
Antenna center lead-------||--------- TV jack center lead

Antenna shield------------||--------- TV jack shield
330 pF 1kV

This ceramic capacitor is often marked 331k 1kV or similar. A 470 pF
might work okay. The high voltage is important for safety reasons.
If you build this, keep all leads short. Put it in a box with a jack
for the antenna at one end and a pigtail with the plug coming out the
other. And anchor the cable so that it can't short out inside. Also
it would be a good idea to put two 1 meg resistors from the antenna
side to a ground wire going to the ground pin of the AC outlet.

I disclaim any and all responsibility for using this, and it may or
may not help with the problem. So take this _free_ advice for what
it's worth.

Also, another solution would be to use an isolation transformer on the
TV, but that may be more expensive than a new TV.

Thank you,
Jim Y
--
@@F@r@o@m@@O@r@a@n@g@e@@C@o@u@n@t@y@,@@C@a@l@,@@w@h@e@r@e@@
###Got a Question about ELECTRONICS? Check HERE First:###
http://users.pandora.be/educypedia/electronics/databank.htm
My email address is whitelisted. *All* email sent to it
goes directly to the trash unless you add NOSPAM in the
Subject: line with other stuff. alondra101 <at> hotmail.com
Don't be ripped off by the big book dealers. Go to the URL
that will give you a choice and save you money(up to half).
http://www.everybookstore.com You'll be glad you did!
Just when you thought you had all this figured out, the gov't
changed it: http://physics.nist.gov/cuu/Units/binary.html
@@t@h@e@@a@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@m@e@e@t@@t@h@e@@E@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@
 
I appreciate the comments, but some of it is going over my head. My electronic knowledge is
limited. My multitester is an LCD Digital with a 20 megohm input impedance. I have an outlet
tester - all duplex outlets in the house are properly grounded for three prong plugs. Several
months ago, an electrician replaced my *old* fuse box replaced with circuit breakers. He
checked all wiring at that time for proper grounding.

Unplugging the TV, I checked for resistance between the coax outer shield and the ground/earth
pin in the wall outlet. It is open.


Jim Y <j.s.yablonsky@NOSPAMatt.net> wrote in message
news:UOy4b.123142$3o3.8656931@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
I am not an electrician or electrical engineer, but have questions for those of you who are.

I have been having problems with my telephone. My telephone and TV cable are connected (in
some
manner) from Comcast. Comcast sent a technician out and he discovered my television sets were
feeding voltage into the system. He said the device is not designed to take voltage from the
output side of the box. Their connecting box (I have no idea what it is called) converts one
type of signal to another for both telephone and television reception.

One TV (kitchen counter) had approximately 64 volts AC between the cable antenna sheathing and
the wall circuit ground. (All of my wall outlets are properly grounded and were recently
checked by an electrician.) After the technician left, I dug out my multimeter and tested it
myself. I disconnected the cable from the kitchen TV and placed one test lead on the
threaded
portion of the TV connector and one test lead in the ground opening of the wall outlet. The
TV
was still plugged in to the wall outlet naturally. The voltage fluctuated between 62 and 68
volts. Unplugging the TV loses the voltage as expected.

The technician checked the other TV sets in my home and found they all had a voltage across
the
same ground connections but in the 8 to 20 volt range. He made some wiring changes to the
outside connection box and said the cable feed now bypassed the phone connection so I should
no
longer have the problem on the my phone.

My questions are:
Why is there a potential across the grounded antenna shielding and the outlet ground?
Is this normal?
Why so high on one TV?
Should I consider replacing the TV with the high voltage?
Is this a dangerous situation? I am concerned.

Thank you,
Jim Y
 
"scada" <scadaxxxxx@optonlinenospam.net> wrote in message
news:qEJ4b.95646$yg.27341259@news4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net...
You may have one
or both of the following problems: The cable input connector (isolating
device) has become defective, allowing excessive current to flow.
Unlikely to effect ALL his TV's I would have thought?
 
On Mon, 01 Sep 2003 16:32:38 +0100, scada wrote:

Today's TV sets have one side of the AC input connected to the internal
circuit board and its components.
Both sides, actually. How else would the TV work?

Joking aside, most TVs made in the last twenty years have a switch mode
power supply with a bridge rectifier across the AC supply, and the rest
of the circuitry isolated.

The old practice of using a half wave circuit with the chassis connected
to one side of the suppply died when supply companies started getting
tetchy about DC components getting onto their nice clean (?) AC mains.

A few dozen half-wave thyristor power supplies could really screw things
up.

This may be urban legend, but there was a story about a TV factory in
Europe putting their first model using a half-wave thyristor PSU into
production. The first day they started up the test line with a few
hundred sets on, the substation tripped on the peak current.


Then there's duct tape ...
(Garrison Keillor)
nofr@sbhevre.pbzchyvax.pb.hx
 

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