Error of % + digits?...

[Cydrome Leader]

In sci.electronics.basics Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote:

In article <op.0nw7h4ytwdg98l@glass>, CFKinsey@military.org.jp says...
I do have a Fluke test meter that is purty much fool proof up to 600
volts and rated CAT 4. A T1000. It only measuers AC amps by passing a
wire through the prongs. It does have a switch for voltage and ohms. I
have on purpose set it to ohms and put it across a fuse in a 480 volt AC
circuit to see if the fuse is good or bad. No problem to do this.

With a bad fuse it doesn\'t blow up?



No it does not . It is designed to protect its self from voltage on the
ohms scale. They are only about $ 130

Even better is a quick tester by Fluke. it has 2 leads and about 8 or
so leds on it. Both it and the T1000 look similar to bannanas, even
yellow in color. The 2nd tester is fully automatic. Connect the two
leads to anything under 600 or so volts. If voltage, the leds light up
, the more for more voltage. Anoter is for AC or DC. If there is less
than about 200 ohms and no voltage, there is a led and buzzer for that.

About as fool proof as they make it for quick tests.

Hmm, Remeber those neon voltage testers with two leads and the bizarre
shirt pocket clip? I had one go out on me, showed no voltage when there
was some. Whoops.

Now I use one of those ground/wiring testers. I figure it will still light
up if one neon indicator fails.

 

[Ralph Mowery]

In article <rf8eq6$brr$1@reader1.panix.com>, presence@MUNGEpanix.com
says...

I do have a Fluke test meter that is purty much fool proof up to 600
volts and rated CAT 4. A T1000. It only measuers AC amps by passing a
wire through the prongs. It does have a switch for voltage and ohms. I
have on purpose set it to ohms and put it across a fuse in a 480 volt AC
circuit to see if the fuse is good or bad. No problem to do this.

I just got one of those clamp current multimeters. I noticed some glaring
limitations vs the full out Fluke 87 V, but at the same time, it\'s way
more \"idiot-proof\".

The current ranges, even for DC at only available though the current
clamp. It\'s just not possible to short anything out with the test probes.
The downside (not really surprising) is no low current ranges. Ok fine.
The input impedance is pretty low at 1Meg as well, but for poking at line
voltage wiring, this is fine. Again, no matter what range you are set it,
it appears to be impossible to blow up the meter as it has no low
resistance across the leads modes. The ohms range seems to max out at 40k
or something surprisibly low like that, again, no big deal for prodding at
lighting circuits or an outlet, or some 24 volt circuit.

Meters like the T1000 are for quick go or no go test mainly. For what
they are mainly used for it does not make any differnece if they are off
by even 10 %. For quick tests in an industrial enviroment it does not
matter if the control voltage is 115.25 volts when anything from around
110 to 130 volts is close enough. Most circuits will have less than
1000 ohms resistance , many of the motors will show up as an almoat
short if the windings are good. Fuses are almost shorts or opens.

The Fluke 87 and meters like that are more for electronic tests. The
specs on them are very good and will be accurate to one or two decimal
places.

When I worked I had access to almost any kind of meter or test set. I
often grabbed my Simpson 260 and analog Ampprobe for the equipment that
would not start or run. However I would stick the Fluke \'Bananna\' in my
pocket to check some things like the fuses in a power circuit.

For the instruments where they needed to be measured to less than 1 %
out came the fluke 87 or more likely a special piece of equipment that
has a Heart interface. That reads signals on the instrument lines.

 

[Cydrome Leader]

In sci.electronics.basics Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote:

In article <op.0nw7h4ytwdg98l@glass>, CFKinsey@military.org.jp says...
I do have a Fluke test meter that is purty much fool proof up to 600
volts and rated CAT 4. A T1000. It only measuers AC amps by passing a
wire through the prongs. It does have a switch for voltage and ohms. I
have on purpose set it to ohms and put it across a fuse in a 480 volt AC
circuit to see if the fuse is good or bad. No problem to do this.

With a bad fuse it doesn\'t blow up?



No it does not . It is designed to protect its self from voltage on the
ohms scale. They are only about $ 130

Even better is a quick tester by Fluke. it has 2 leads and about 8 or
so leds on it. Both it and the T1000 look similar to bannanas, even
yellow in color. The 2nd tester is fully automatic. Connect the two
leads to anything under 600 or so volts. If voltage, the leds light up
, the more for more voltage. Anoter is for AC or DC. If there is less
than about 200 ohms and no voltage, there is a led and buzzer for that.

About as fool proof as they make it for quick tests.

Hmm, Remeber those neon voltage testers with two leads and the bizarre
shirt pocket clip? I had one go out on me, showed no voltage when there
was some. Whoops.

Now I use one of those ground/wiring testers. I figure it will still light
up if one neon indicator fails.

 

[Ralph Mowery]

In article <rf8eq6$brr$1@reader1.panix.com>, presence@MUNGEpanix.com
says...

I do have a Fluke test meter that is purty much fool proof up to 600
volts and rated CAT 4. A T1000. It only measuers AC amps by passing a
wire through the prongs. It does have a switch for voltage and ohms. I
have on purpose set it to ohms and put it across a fuse in a 480 volt AC
circuit to see if the fuse is good or bad. No problem to do this.

I just got one of those clamp current multimeters. I noticed some glaring
limitations vs the full out Fluke 87 V, but at the same time, it\'s way
more \"idiot-proof\".

The current ranges, even for DC at only available though the current
clamp. It\'s just not possible to short anything out with the test probes.
The downside (not really surprising) is no low current ranges. Ok fine.
The input impedance is pretty low at 1Meg as well, but for poking at line
voltage wiring, this is fine. Again, no matter what range you are set it,
it appears to be impossible to blow up the meter as it has no low
resistance across the leads modes. The ohms range seems to max out at 40k
or something surprisibly low like that, again, no big deal for prodding at
lighting circuits or an outlet, or some 24 volt circuit.

Meters like the T1000 are for quick go or no go test mainly. For what
they are mainly used for it does not make any differnece if they are off
by even 10 %. For quick tests in an industrial enviroment it does not
matter if the control voltage is 115.25 volts when anything from around
110 to 130 volts is close enough. Most circuits will have less than
1000 ohms resistance , many of the motors will show up as an almoat
short if the windings are good. Fuses are almost shorts or opens.

The Fluke 87 and meters like that are more for electronic tests. The
specs on them are very good and will be accurate to one or two decimal
places.

When I worked I had access to almost any kind of meter or test set. I
often grabbed my Simpson 260 and analog Ampprobe for the equipment that
would not start or run. However I would stick the Fluke \'Bananna\' in my
pocket to check some things like the fuses in a power circuit.

For the instruments where they needed to be measured to less than 1 %
out came the fluke 87 or more likely a special piece of equipment that
has a Heart interface. That reads signals on the instrument lines.

 

[Ralph Mowery]

In article <rf8f20$brr$2@reader1.panix.com>, presence@MUNGEpanix.com
says...

Hmm, Remeber those neon voltage testers with two leads and the bizarre
shirt pocket clip? I had one go out on me, showed no voltage when there
was some. Whoops.

Now I use one of those ground/wiring testers. I figure it will still light
up if one neon indicator fails.

Yes, I used one very often. One learns to put the leads across a source
that should have voltage on it to see if the neon bulb lights up, then
put it to the point to test and if the neon does not light up, go back
to a point that should have voltage on it.


Bad thing about where I worked there was so many wires in conduit that
the neon would light up even if there was no \'real\' voltage on the wire.
Just induced voltage that if put under much of a load at all will seem
to diaspear.
It is still enough to shock the crap out of you, especially if wet with
sweat.

 

[Ralph Mowery]

In article <rf8f20$brr$2@reader1.panix.com>, presence@MUNGEpanix.com
says...

Hmm, Remeber those neon voltage testers with two leads and the bizarre
shirt pocket clip? I had one go out on me, showed no voltage when there
was some. Whoops.

Now I use one of those ground/wiring testers. I figure it will still light
up if one neon indicator fails.

Yes, I used one very often. One learns to put the leads across a source
that should have voltage on it to see if the neon bulb lights up, then
put it to the point to test and if the neon does not light up, go back
to a point that should have voltage on it.


Bad thing about where I worked there was so many wires in conduit that
the neon would light up even if there was no \'real\' voltage on the wire.
Just induced voltage that if put under much of a load at all will seem
to diaspear.
It is still enough to shock the crap out of you, especially if wet with
sweat.

 

[Ralph Mowery]

In article <rf8f20$brr$2@reader1.panix.com>, presence@MUNGEpanix.com
says...

Hmm, Remeber those neon voltage testers with two leads and the bizarre
shirt pocket clip? I had one go out on me, showed no voltage when there
was some. Whoops.

Now I use one of those ground/wiring testers. I figure it will still light
up if one neon indicator fails.

Yes, I used one very often. One learns to put the leads across a source
that should have voltage on it to see if the neon bulb lights up, then
put it to the point to test and if the neon does not light up, go back
to a point that should have voltage on it.


Bad thing about where I worked there was so many wires in conduit that
the neon would light up even if there was no \'real\' voltage on the wire.
Just induced voltage that if put under much of a load at all will seem
to diaspear.
It is still enough to shock the crap out of you, especially if wet with
sweat.

 

[Commander Kinsey]

On Fri, 17 Jul 2020 04:29:38 +0100, Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote:

In article <op.0nvd9pimwdg98l@glass>, CFKinsey@military.org.jp says...

He is just an arc flash away from making an ash of himself.

I\'ve done that actually, just scorched my hand for a couple of weeks.

If you had respected things that probably would never hapen, you would
not have scorched your hand.

You miss the point, it\'s not the end of the world.

 

[Commander Kinsey]

On Fri, 17 Jul 2020 04:29:38 +0100, Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote:

In article <op.0nvd9pimwdg98l@glass>, CFKinsey@military.org.jp says...

He is just an arc flash away from making an ash of himself.

I\'ve done that actually, just scorched my hand for a couple of weeks.

If you had respected things that probably would never hapen, you would
not have scorched your hand.

You miss the point, it\'s not the end of the world.

 

[Commander Kinsey]

On Fri, 17 Jul 2020 04:29:38 +0100, Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote:

In article <op.0nvd9pimwdg98l@glass>, CFKinsey@military.org.jp says...

He is just an arc flash away from making an ash of himself.

I\'ve done that actually, just scorched my hand for a couple of weeks.

If you had respected things that probably would never hapen, you would
not have scorched your hand.

You miss the point, it\'s not the end of the world.

 

[Rich]

Commander Kinsey <CFKinsey@military.org.jp> wrote:

On Fri, 17 Jul 2020 04:29:38 +0100, Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote:

In article <op.0nvd9pimwdg98l@glass>, CFKinsey@military.org.jp says...

He is just an arc flash away from making an ash of himself.

I\'ve done that actually, just scorched my hand for a couple of weeks.

If you had respected things that probably would never hapen, you would
not have scorched your hand.

You miss the point, it\'s not the end of the world.

A scorched hand, no, not the end of the world.

A stopped heart, which *can* happen if the arc flash conducts enough
current through the wrong part of the body, well then for the one who\'s
heart just got stopped it might just be the end of the world.

 

[Rich]

Commander Kinsey <CFKinsey@military.org.jp> wrote:

On Fri, 17 Jul 2020 04:29:38 +0100, Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote:

In article <op.0nvd9pimwdg98l@glass>, CFKinsey@military.org.jp says...

He is just an arc flash away from making an ash of himself.

I\'ve done that actually, just scorched my hand for a couple of weeks.

If you had respected things that probably would never hapen, you would
not have scorched your hand.

You miss the point, it\'s not the end of the world.

A scorched hand, no, not the end of the world.

A stopped heart, which *can* happen if the arc flash conducts enough
current through the wrong part of the body, well then for the one who\'s
heart just got stopped it might just be the end of the world.

 

[Rich]

Commander Kinsey <CFKinsey@military.org.jp> wrote:

On Fri, 17 Jul 2020 04:29:38 +0100, Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote:

In article <op.0nvd9pimwdg98l@glass>, CFKinsey@military.org.jp says...

He is just an arc flash away from making an ash of himself.

I\'ve done that actually, just scorched my hand for a couple of weeks.

If you had respected things that probably would never hapen, you would
not have scorched your hand.

You miss the point, it\'s not the end of the world.

A scorched hand, no, not the end of the world.

A stopped heart, which *can* happen if the arc flash conducts enough
current through the wrong part of the body, well then for the one who\'s
heart just got stopped it might just be the end of the world.

 

[Commander Kinsey]

On Fri, 24 Jul 2020 23:58:41 +0100, Rich <rich@example.invalid> wrote:

Commander Kinsey <CFKinsey@military.org.jp> wrote:
On Fri, 17 Jul 2020 04:29:38 +0100, Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote:

In article <op.0nvd9pimwdg98l@glass>, CFKinsey@military.org.jp says...

He is just an arc flash away from making an ash of himself.

I\'ve done that actually, just scorched my hand for a couple of weeks.

If you had respected things that probably would never hapen, you would
not have scorched your hand.

You miss the point, it\'s not the end of the world.

A scorched hand, no, not the end of the world.

A stopped heart, which *can* happen if the arc flash conducts enough
current through the wrong part of the body, well then for the one who\'s
heart just got stopped it might just be the end of the world.

It seldom travels that path.

 

[Commander Kinsey]

On Fri, 24 Jul 2020 23:58:41 +0100, Rich <rich@example.invalid> wrote:

Commander Kinsey <CFKinsey@military.org.jp> wrote:
On Fri, 17 Jul 2020 04:29:38 +0100, Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote:

In article <op.0nvd9pimwdg98l@glass>, CFKinsey@military.org.jp says...

He is just an arc flash away from making an ash of himself.

I\'ve done that actually, just scorched my hand for a couple of weeks.

If you had respected things that probably would never hapen, you would
not have scorched your hand.

You miss the point, it\'s not the end of the world.

A scorched hand, no, not the end of the world.

A stopped heart, which *can* happen if the arc flash conducts enough
current through the wrong part of the body, well then for the one who\'s
heart just got stopped it might just be the end of the world.

It seldom travels that path.

 

[Commander Kinsey]

On Fri, 24 Jul 2020 23:58:41 +0100, Rich <rich@example.invalid> wrote:

Commander Kinsey <CFKinsey@military.org.jp> wrote:
On Fri, 17 Jul 2020 04:29:38 +0100, Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote:

In article <op.0nvd9pimwdg98l@glass>, CFKinsey@military.org.jp says...

He is just an arc flash away from making an ash of himself.

I\'ve done that actually, just scorched my hand for a couple of weeks.

If you had respected things that probably would never hapen, you would
not have scorched your hand.

You miss the point, it\'s not the end of the world.

A scorched hand, no, not the end of the world.

A stopped heart, which *can* happen if the arc flash conducts enough
current through the wrong part of the body, well then for the one who\'s
heart just got stopped it might just be the end of the world.

It seldom travels that path.

 

[Cydrome Leader]

In sci.electronics.basics Commander Kinsey <CFKinsey@military.org.jp> wrote:

On Thu, 02 Jul 2020 06:45:42 +0100, Cydrome Leader <presence@mungepanix.com> wrote:

In sci.electronics.equipment Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote:
In article <rdecuc$m73$1@reader1.panix.com>, presence@MUNGEpanix.com
says...

So should I assume the cheaper ones are lying? Or have they just made a rough estimate adding the two errors?

might be both. I dug out my first DMM, a Wavetek DM2, circa 1990s. It might
have been from a raffle or something like that.

The DC voltage specs range from 0.8% +1 digit (not bad really) over to the
AC ranges which are \"1.2% RDG +10 Digits\". If I had new leads, I\'d trust it
with outlet voltage, but would stay away from 208volts. The meter has 3.5
digits or max display of 1999. I\'m figuring a real 100volt AC reading could
be 99 to 101 plus another error of +/- 1 volt for the 10 digits tolerance
on the display or count. so 100volts from your Japanese outlet reference
might read 98 to 102 volts. So while in the ballpark, it\'s better than you
can read off a Simpson 260 meter in the AC voltage range. I could be wrong
on this too.

It\'s a pretty decent meter for poking at DC circuits for the tens of
dollars is must have cost when new.



It seems that maybe due to modern manufactoring the meters are more
accurate than they were 20 years ago. I bought some DC voltmeters from
China. They display 3 digits. They read from 0 to 99.9 volts. I coulg
get 4 of them for less than $ 15 including the shipping. I hooked all 4
of them in parallel with a Fluke 87 . Three of them tracked right along
with the Fluke with the last digit sometimes being one high or low from
0 to 24 volts. The fourth one was off by an average of 2 on the last
digit. I found an adjustment screw on the back of the meter and tweaked
it and re ran the test. It then fell in line with the other meters.

Have you run this test with AC? That seems to be where the wheels come
off. I brought up this thread to a friend and he mentioned his quest to
repair some sort of HP true RMS meter that uses a thermocouple and heater
to properly measure complex waveforms. I can\'t even guess how slow such a
meter might be.

How well do these things work measuring dodgy waves like from a cheap UPS or invertor?

Probably perfectly.

I had 3 or 4 of the Harbor Freight \'free\' multimeters. The ones that
usually sell for around $ 5. They seem to be reasonable accurate for
the money. Plenty accurate for the home user to test things around the
house. I do admit that the safety issue of putting them across the 120
or 240 volt power wires is somewhat doubtful. I sure would not use one
where I worked to put across the 480 volt 3 phase system that is fused
with 200 amps.

I\'m pretty timid with anything upstream from a plain outlet.

I\'ve replaced outlets (240V, not the namby pamby USA stuff) without
turning off the power - other outlets on the same circuit were being
used in the office and I saw no point in interrupting them.

cool story.

Just keep your fingers off the metal things and don\'t short stuff together. Wear goggles and gloves if you want to be a girl about it.

I had an
edison base fuse burst in my hand once. Never seen one come apart before.
It was just a 120v lighting circuit, but right off the service panel.
There\'s way more excitement near those things.

Try shorting two phases together with 500A cables. That causes lots of
smoke, a fire alarm, 3 fire engines, and a visit from the power company.
Do not ever employ Irish electricians.

In America we have fuses and circuit breakers. Check youtube for a video
about how they work.

 

[Cydrome Leader]

In sci.electronics.basics Commander Kinsey <CFKinsey@military.org.jp> wrote:

On Tue, 30 Jun 2020 04:52:44 +0100, Cydrome Leader <presence@mungepanix.com> wrote:

In sci.electronics.equipment Commander Kinsey <CFKinsey@military.org.jp> wrote:
On Wed, 24 Jun 2020 21:06:04 +0100, Rich <rich@example.invalid> wrote:

In sci.electronics.equipment Commander Kinsey <CFKinsey@military.org.jp> wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 15:38:46 +0100, Pimpom <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote:

On 6/18/2020 6:33 PM, Commander Kinsey wrote:
I just bought an amp clamp meter, and it states the error is \"+/-
1.9% + 3 digits\". What does the \"3 digits\" part mean?


If your meter should read, say 1.875 A, the correct reading could
be anywhere from 1.872 to 1.878. This is a possible error in the
display presented to you in the analog-digital display conversion
process. The +/-1.9% possible error is about the measurement
taken including - but not only - any error made by the sensor.

Thanks, I wonder why all my other meters only list a % error. Is it
included within it somehow, or are they just lying, or do some meters
not have this error?

One generally finds the percentage plus digits error measures on more
expensive equipment. Less expensive equipment more often than not only
lists a percentage and nothing more.

So should I assume the cheaper ones are lying? Or have they just made a rough estimate adding the two errors?

might be both. I dug out my first DMM, a Wavetek DM2, circa 1990s. It might
have been from a raffle or something like that.

The DC voltage specs range from 0.8% +1 digit (not bad really) over to the
AC ranges which are \"1.2% RDG +10 Digits\".

TEN!? Surely that\'s more than the number of digits it has? In which case it has no accuracy at all.

I\'m pretty sure they mean 10 counts which could be 1 volt on a scale with
1 decimal place. That does sound terrible if there were no decimal places
though.

If I had new leads, I\'d trust it
with outlet voltage, but would stay away from 208volts.

You oughta complain about that low voltage. Some equipment needs at
least 220.

terribly designed equiment, maybe. 208 is standard voltage for phase to
phase in a three wire systems, as used in a commercial setting in the US.

minilabs, for processing 35mm film fall into the stupid design category,
usually being speced for 120 or 240 at dozens of amps.

Nobody runs a fucking minilab in their home, and it makes no sense to run
30+amp 120volt service anyways. So, in any place that would have a
minilab, they\'re going to have 208, not 120 or 240. So the result is boost
transformer has to be installed. They\'re not large, being rated only for
the KVA of the voltage boost, but it\'s still dumb.

It\'s just shitty lazy design, where maybe they can strap two heating
elements in series for 240 and parallel them for 120, but again, nobody
uses machines like that in their home where split phase power is available
anyways.

The better designed machines won\'t have resisitve heating elements that
burn out at 240 and still have motors that will start and run fine on 208.

 

[Commander Kinsey]

On Fri, 17 Jul 2020 13:15:24 +0100, Jasen Betts <jasen@xnet.co.nz> wrote:

On 2020-07-16, Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote:
In sci.electronics.equipment Commander Kinsey <CFKinsey@military.org.jp> wrote:
On Sun, 12 Jul 2020 20:21:10 +0100, Tom Gardner <spamjunk@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:

On 12/07/20 19:01, Pimpom wrote:
On 7/12/2020 11:15 PM, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Fri, 26 Jun 2020 05:23:31 +0100, Cydrome Leader <presence@mungepanix.com
wrote:

In sci.electronics.equipment Pimpom <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote:

My mechanical slide caliper has a resolution of 0.001 inch. This
means that it can display measurements with a precision of 1 mil,

What if your caliper had a resolution of 1 mil +/- 3 counts on the last
digit?
.....<snip>........

In America, what is a \"mill\"? In the UK, it used to mean a thousandth of an
inch, but people use it to mean a millimetre nowadays.


It\'s not a mill. It\'s mil - single l. It means, and has always meant, a
thousandth of an inch. It\'s not an Americanism.

In the UK \"mill\" means millilitre.

If you want to refer to fractions of an inch, then
it is /always/ \"thou\", i.e. thousandths of an inch.

In the UK \"mil/mill\" /never/ means 0.001\".

Yes it does. My neighbour\'s a tradesman (in Scotland) and says
\"mill/mil\" (I don\'t know which as they sound the same in speech) as
shorthand for millimetre. As in \"that kitchen unit is 600 mill wide\".
Since we don\'t use inches for such things in the UK, there\'s no
confusion.

The context there is key too. While I\'d not measure a countertop or
whatever in millimeters, it would make no sense that anything in a kitchen
would be measured thicknesses of paper.

We (in the US) use \"guage\" for wire and sheet metal. We also use \"guage\"
for measuring really thin stuff like plastic films. In the last case, it\'s
a completly different unit, but with proper context won\'t confuse anybody.

sheet metal in mm (1.6mm, 0.65mm etc...)
plastic sheet in microns 40um etc.
electric wire in square mm.
fencing wire in mm diameter.

Much more sensible. Guage is meaningless and is the wrong way round, higher numbers are smaller!

Question for the metric woodworkers. Does anybody cut a piece of wood to
317mm or 429mm or other off numbers when building a house or handing a
door or installing a countertop?

Yes, if that is the right size. buildings are usually specified in
multiples of 100mm. often multiples of 300mm or 1000mm
furniture usually in multiples of 25mm

Factory door sizes are 620mm + multiples of 50mm, but not all openings
are the right size for the factory door.

There seems to be no standard for doors. You can order about 15 different sizes in the UK, but never anywhere near the one you need.

Timber sizes for dressed finger-jointed framing timber are accurate to
withion 0.5mm are are certain preferred multiples of 5mm eg: 70x35 used
mainly for non-structual walls. 90x45 used mainly for structural walls.

The stud spacing and top-plate height will typically be some multiple
of 50mm So a lot of the cutting for studs, and blocking is at multiples
of 5mm. that\'s if you\'re not using pre-fabricated framing.

Carpenters use millimeteres. they say centimeters
are for tailors, and inches are for cobblers.

I use the most sensible denomination for the job. I won\'t say 600mm when I could say 60cm. And I weigh myself in stone, not pounds.

 

[Commander Kinsey]

On Sat, 18 Jul 2020 00:30:22 +0100, Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote:

In article <op.0nw9prwrwdg98l@glass>, CFKinsey@military.org.jp says...

About as fool proof as they make it for quick tests.

Does it check for current if there\'s no voltage?

Just how can there be curent if there is no voltage ?

There is no current by the leads, but works like a clamp on meter to
check for AC Current. Does not do DC current.

There can be voltage but no current.

I meant does it automatically work out if you want to test for current or voltage?