spinning yarn

S

sally

Guest
Hello,
I have an old homemade electric spinning wheel which consists of a
bunch of wood metal and string parts, but the important part here is
the motor. Its got an old sewing machine motor, but I want something
very quiet and strong with as high a RPM as I can get. I need it to be
able to attach to a foot rheostat to start and stop it. There are
sewing machine motors that comes with the the foot rheostat but what
else could I use? A automobile fan motor? What do the professional
makers use, like Ertoel's Roberta or Ashford's electric spinner?
 
"sally" <saffyducky@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1109502782.884113.65290@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
Hello,
I have an old homemade electric spinning wheel which consists of a
bunch of wood metal and string parts, but the important part here is
the motor. Its got an old sewing machine motor, but I want something
very quiet and strong with as high a RPM as I can get. I need it to be
able to attach to a foot rheostat to start and stop it. There are
sewing machine motors that comes with the the foot rheostat but what
else could I use? A automobile fan motor? What do the professional
makers use, like Ertoel's Roberta or Ashford's electric spinner?
I would suggest using a universal motor (AC-DC) with a PWM driver circuit.
The pedal would be connected to a potentiometer which is connected to the
Pulse Width Modulator drive. This is much more efficient than the old
Rheostat scheme.
 
I have an old homemade electric spinning wheel which consists of a
bunch of wood metal and string parts, but the important part here is
the motor. Its got an old sewing machine motor, but I want something
very quiet and strong with as high a RPM as I can get. I need it to be
able to attach to a foot rheostat to start and stop it. There are
sewing machine motors that comes with the the foot rheostat but what
else could I use? A automobile fan motor? What do the professional
makers use, like Ertoel's Roberta or Ashford's electric spinner?
The most likely salvage type of motors would be from a small drill press
or air conditioner.
 
How dare you sir, assume that i'm smart. That was as good as speaking
Greek to me, but I will however print this out and take it to the local
electric parts store and see i I can get this part.


SCADA wrote:


I would suggest using a universal motor (AC-DC) with a PWM driver
circuit.
The pedal would be connected to a potentiometer which is connected to
the
Pulse Width Modulator drive. This is much more efficient than the old
Rheostat scheme.
 
How dare you sir, assume that i'm smart. That was as good as speaking
Greek to me, but I will however print this out and take it to the local
electric parts store and see i I can get this part. I thank you for
this info.


SCADA wrote:


I would suggest using a universal motor (AC-DC) with a PWM driver
circuit.
The pedal would be connected to a potentiometer which is connected to
the
Pulse Width Modulator drive. This is much more efficient than the old
Rheostat scheme.
 
I'm tired of salvaging, i'd like a nice new fancy motor. The electric
wheels run about 600 dollars, so 50-100$ on a good motor isn't a big
layout, but it will be a big luxury when one sits to spin for a few
hours and you dont have to listen to the clatter while your radio or tv
is at a high volume to compensate.


Fred Bloggs wrote:
I have an old homemade electric spinning wheel which consists of
a
bunch of wood metal and string parts, but the important part here
is
the motor. Its got an old sewing machine motor, but I want
something
very quiet and strong with as high a RPM as I can get. I need it to
be
able to attach to a foot rheostat to start and stop it. There are
sewing machine motors that comes with the the foot rheostat but
what
else could I use? A automobile fan motor? What do the professional
makers use, like Ertoel's Roberta or Ashford's electric spinner?


The most likely salvage type of motors would be from a small drill
press
or air conditioner.
 
sally wrote:
I'm tired of salvaging, i'd like a nice new fancy motor. The electric
wheels run about 600 dollars, so 50-100$ on a good motor isn't a big
layout, but it will be a big luxury when one sits to spin for a few
hours and you dont have to listen to the clatter while your radio or tv
is at a high volume to compensate.
What is the on the motor nameplate?
 
I read in sci.electronics.design that Mark Jones <abuse@127.0.0.1> wrote
(in <cv-dncyYOIvOr77fRVn-hQ@buckeye-express.com>) about 'spinning yarn',
on Mon, 28 Feb 2005:
Here's to the dog's bollocks. :) (Hope I said that correctly!)
Yes, but you didn't type it correctly. It's :-, not :). (;-)
--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
The good news is that nothing is compulsory.
The bad news is that everything is prohibited.
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk
 
In article <4221E647.4000701@nospam.com>,
Fred Bloggs <nospam@nospam.com> wrote:
I have an old homemade electric spinning wheel which consists of a
bunch of wood metal and string parts, but the important part here is
the motor. Its got an old sewing machine motor, but I want something
very quiet and strong with as high a RPM as I can get. I need it to be
able to attach to a foot rheostat to start and stop it. There are
sewing machine motors that comes with the the foot rheostat but what
else could I use? A automobile fan motor? What do the professional
makers use, like Ertoel's Roberta or Ashford's electric spinner?


The most likely salvage type of motors would be from a small drill press
or air conditioner.
Isn't there a category of 90 volt DC motors, often used in exercise
equipment? Speed control with an full wave bridge and SCR phase
controller. (A neighbor had a baseball pitching machine that used
this sort of drive, so I assume it's common off the shelf stuff).

Mark Zenier mzenier@eskimo.com Washington State resident
 
On Mon, 28 Feb 2005 15:24:37 +0000, John Woodgate wrote:

I read in sci.electronics.design that Mark Jones <abuse@127.0.0.1> wrote
(in <cv-dncyYOIvOr77fRVn-hQ@buckeye-express.com>) about 'spinning yarn',
on Mon, 28 Feb 2005:
Here's to the dog's bollocks. :) (Hope I said that correctly!)

Yes, but you didn't type it correctly. It's :-, not :). (;-)
The right-hand paren is significant. Just ':-' doesn't mean much.
http://paul.merton.ox.ac.uk/ascii/smileys.html

Cheers!
Rich
 
Rich Grise wrote:
Yes, but you didn't type it correctly. It's :-, not :). (;-)

The right-hand paren is significant. Just ':-' doesn't mean much.
http://paul.merton.ox.ac.uk/ascii/smileys.html
It wasn't a smiley, it was a dangley.

Paul Burke
 
I read in sci.electronics.design that Rich Grise <richgrise@example.net>
wrote (in <pan.2005.03.01.00.04.30.976710@example.net>) about 'spinning
yarn', on Tue, 1 Mar 2005:
On Mon, 28 Feb 2005 15:24:37 +0000, John Woodgate wrote:

I read in sci.electronics.design that Mark Jones <abuse@127.0.0.1> wrote
(in <cv-dncyYOIvOr77fRVn-hQ@buckeye-express.com>) about 'spinning yarn',
on Mon, 28 Feb 2005:
Here's to the dog's bollocks. :) (Hope I said that correctly!)

Yes, but you didn't type it correctly. It's :-, not :). (;-)

The right-hand paren is significant. Just ':-' doesn't mean much.
http://paul.merton.ox.ac.uk/ascii/smileys.html

You have misunderstood. The sign :- is what is known to some printers as
'dog's bollocks'.

I HATE having to explain my jokes. Even to Americans. (;-)
--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
The good news is that nothing is compulsory.
The bad news is that everything is prohibited.
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk
 
John Woodgate wrote:
I HATE having to explain my jokes. Even to Americans. (;-)
--
Regards, John Woodgate
I was always told, "If you have to explain, it wasn't a joke!"

--
Beware of those who post from srvinet.com!

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
 
I was thinking of my professional dremel type motor, the Foredom
flexible shaft motor. It's pretty strong and comes with the foot pedal
rheostat, but its expensive and im not sure how to take the handpieces
shaft off. I'll look furthur into that, I think that might be the only
options, a sewing machine motor or the pro jeweler/dental motors.


Clifford Heath wrote:
sally wrote:
How dare you sir, assume that i'm smart.

:) One can be smart without being knowledgable...

Your parts store won't have a PWM drive for some unspecified motor,
or even for some particular one.

The best bet might be a mains-powered electric drill, on the high-
speed gear setting, used with a speed control. There is a type of
speed control called an "SCR phase controller" which can be used
with a universal (AC/DC) motor. Most (non-speed controlled) drills
use universal motors and could be used with this type of circuit.
The circuit itself can be bought in kit form from some suupliers.
It's basically a modification of a lamp dimmer, designed to respond
to the motor speed and keep it steady with a varying load.

Some drills (and drill-type equipment, like the Dremel "universal
tool") have built-in speed control, but in either case you'd need
someone knowledgable to adapt it to a foot pedal - bearing in mind
that high (mains) voltages are in play. If you don't need much
power, a modified Dremel would be good, as they spin well above
20,000 RPM.

Clifford Heath.
 

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