Plug and socket suggestion needed

C

Chris W

Guest
I have a control box with a 2 wire cable going out to a SPST switch that
switches 120V AC line. I want to put a socket on in the box and a plug
on the wire with the switch so I can disconnect it when it isn't
needed. The easiest thing I can think of would be to use a standard 2
prong outlet and plug. The problem with that is, someone might find the
cable with the switch and plug on the end, wonder what it does, plug it
in and flip the switch. Best case, they trip a breaker, worst case
something starts on fire. So I don't like that idea. I have been
searching Mouser and Digikey and the only other panel mount socket and
matching plug I have found are the round ones that have from two on up
to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

--
Chris W

Gift Giving Made Easy
Get the gifts you want &
give the gifts they want
http://thewishzone.com
 
I read in sci.electronics.design that Chris W <1qazse4@cox.net> wrote
(in <KmC5e.135$yO2.72@lakeread07>) about 'Plug and socket suggestion
needed', on Fri, 8 Apr 2005:
I have a control box with a 2 wire cable going out to a SPST switch
that switches 120V AC line. I want to put a socket on in the box and a
plug on the wire with the switch so I can disconnect it when it isn't
needed. The easiest thing I can think of would be to use a standard 2
prong outlet and plug. The problem with that is, someone might find
the cable with the switch and plug on the end, wonder what it does,
plug it in and flip the switch. Best case, they trip a breaker, worst
case something starts on fire. So I don't like that idea. I have been
searching Mouser and Digikey and the only other panel mount socket and
matching plug I have found are the round ones that have from two on up
to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
IEC 60320 panel outlet and free plug. Newark should have them, but I
find their web site very unfriendly. The Farnell part numbers are 360430
and 360454.
--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
There are two sides to every question, except
'What is a Moebius strip?'
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk
 
Perhaps using a large ground pin type plug / socket combo would be good, or
if they exist, a larger pin 2 pin plug socket combo.

Paul
 
On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 16:05:32 -0500, Chris W <1qazse4@cox.net> wroth:


to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
RJ-45 sockets are available in panel mount versions and cheaply too. I
doubt plugging an ethernet cable into something with 120 volts applied would
start a fire.

Jim
 
"James Meyer" <jmeyer@nowhere.net> wrote in message
news:e04e51tirg613u7hdqoqa7vfr5ohk29b3f@4ax.com...
On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 16:05:32 -0500, Chris W <1qazse4@cox.net> wroth:


to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

RJ-45 sockets are available in panel mount versions and cheaply too. I
doubt plugging an ethernet cable into something with 120 volts applied
would
start a fire.

Jim


So plug 120VAC into your LAN card and see what happens.
Click to expand...

Ken
 
"James Meyer" <jmeyer@nowhere.net> wrote in message
news:e04e51tirg613u7hdqoqa7vfr5ohk29b3f@4ax.com...
On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 16:05:32 -0500, Chris W <1qazse4@cox.net> wroth:


to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

RJ-45 sockets are available in panel mount versions and cheaply too.
I
doubt plugging an ethernet cable into something with 120 volts applied
would
start a fire.

Jim

RJ45 style plugs are certianly NOT safe for 120 volt applications.
Click to expand...
--
John G

Wot's Your Real Problem?
 
James Meyer wrote:

On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 16:05:32 -0500, Chris W <1qazse4@cox.net> wroth:

to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

RJ-45 sockets are available in panel mount versions and cheaply too. I
doubt plugging an ethernet cable into something with 120 volts applied would
start a fire.
Click to expand...
You mean with a PC, hub, router etc still attached at the other end ?


Graham
 
Pooh Bear wrote:
James Meyer wrote:


On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 16:05:32 -0500, Chris W <1qazse4@cox.net> wroth:


to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

RJ-45 sockets are available in panel mount versions and cheaply too. I
doubt plugging an ethernet cable into something with 120 volts applied would
start a fire.


You mean with a PC, hub, router etc still attached at the other end ?


Graham
Click to expand...
Tonight's menu includes "Router Flambe".

--
Luhan Monat (luhanis 'at' yahoo 'dot' com)
"The future is not what it used to be..."
http://members.cox.net/berniekm
 
Eric Inazaki wrote:

In article <KmC5e.135$yO2.72@lakeread07>, Chris W <1qazse4@cox.net
wrote:



I have a control box with a 2 wire cable going out to a SPST switch that
switches 120V AC line. I want to put a socket on in the box and a plug
on the wire with the switch so I can disconnect it when it isn't
needed. The easiest thing I can think of would be to use a standard 2
prong outlet and plug. The problem with that is, someone might find the
cable with the switch and plug on the end, wonder what it does, plug it
in and flip the switch. Best case, they trip a breaker, worst case
something starts on fire. So I don't like that idea. I have been
searching Mouser and Digikey and the only other panel mount socket and
matching plug I have found are the round ones that have from two on up
to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?



This power cable, is it like those lamp cords with the inline
power switch? What about a Molex connector?

If I read your post correctly, you do _not_ want to put the
plug end on the cord and the socket side on the box. You
want it the other way around: pins on the load side, sockets
on the hot side.


Let me see if I can explain it better. The control box has a time delay
Click to expand...
relay that stooped working a few weeks ago. While I was getting that
replaced, I wired a SPST switch in parallel with the relay contact and
did the time delay manually, so I could still use the system till the
relay was replaced. Now I want to remove that switch but still keep it
around so if the relay goes bad again I can just plug it in and go. The
switch has to be on the end of about a 6 foot cable to make the system
usable. So I want to cut the wire at the box put a socket in the box
and a plug on the wire with the switch.

--
Chris W

Gift Giving Made Easy
Get the gifts you want &
give the gifts they want
http://thewishzone.com
 
Chris W wrote:
I have a control box with a 2 wire cable going out to a SPST switch that
switches 120V AC line. I want to put a socket on in the box and a plug
on the wire with the switch so I can disconnect it when it isn't
needed. The easiest thing I can think of would be to use a standard 2
prong outlet and plug. The problem with that is, someone might find the
cable with the switch and plug on the end, wonder what it does, plug it
in and flip the switch. Best case, they trip a breaker, worst case
something starts on fire. So I don't like that idea. I have been
searching Mouser and Digikey and the only other panel mount socket and
matching plug I have found are the round ones that have from two on up
to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

--
Chris W
Click to expand...

Keyed AC socket and plug? Pins on the plug I'm talking about are flat but
slightly curved, and laid out in a circular pattern. Can't remember what
they're called. Plug in and twist. Locked! A bonus is that the socket is so
wierd that anyone who tries to jam a standard plug into it *deserves* whatever
bad things happen to him/her.
 
In article <56J5e.151$yO2.99@lakeread07>, Chris W <1qazse4@cox.net>
wrote:

Eric Inazaki wrote:

In article <KmC5e.135$yO2.72@lakeread07>, Chris W <1qazse4@cox.net
wrote:



I have a control box with a 2 wire cable going out to a SPST switch that
switches 120V AC line. I want to put a socket on in the box and a plug
on the wire with the switch so I can disconnect it when it isn't
needed. The easiest thing I can think of would be to use a standard 2
prong outlet and plug. The problem with that is, someone might find the
cable with the switch and plug on the end, wonder what it does, plug it
in and flip the switch. Best case, they trip a breaker, worst case
something starts on fire. So I don't like that idea. I have been
searching Mouser and Digikey and the only other panel mount socket and
matching plug I have found are the round ones that have from two on up
to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?



This power cable, is it like those lamp cords with the inline
power switch? What about a Molex connector?

If I read your post correctly, you do _not_ want to put the
plug end on the cord and the socket side on the box. You
want it the other way around: pins on the load side, sockets
on the hot side.


Let me see if I can explain it better. The control box has a time delay
relay that stooped working a few weeks ago. While I was getting that
replaced, I wired a SPST switch in parallel with the relay contact and
did the time delay manually, so I could still use the system till the
relay was replaced. Now I want to remove that switch but still keep it
around so if the relay goes bad again I can just plug it in and go. The
switch has to be on the end of about a 6 foot cable to make the system
usable. So I want to cut the wire at the box put a socket in the box
and a plug on the wire with the switch.
Click to expand...
I understand. I don't know what's giving you trouble try Molex/Waldom,
Amp CPC, Conxall, Amp Mate-N-Lok. Are you searching their web catalogs
or hard copy? Web catalogs are next to useless for "I'll know it when I
see it" searches.
 
In article <42576992.FFFBA688@att.net>, Michael <NoSpam@att.net> wrote:

Chris W wrote:

I have a control box with a 2 wire cable going out to a SPST switch that
switches 120V AC line. I want to put a socket on in the box and a plug
on the wire with the switch so I can disconnect it when it isn't
needed. The easiest thing I can think of would be to use a standard 2
prong outlet and plug. The problem with that is, someone might find the
cable with the switch and plug on the end, wonder what it does, plug it
in and flip the switch. Best case, they trip a breaker, worst case
something starts on fire. So I don't like that idea. I have been
searching Mouser and Digikey and the only other panel mount socket and
matching plug I have found are the round ones that have from two on up
to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

--
Chris W



Keyed AC socket and plug? Pins on the plug I'm talking about are flat but
slightly curved, and laid out in a circular pattern. Can't remember what
they're called. Plug in and twist. Locked! A bonus is that the socket is so
wierd that anyone who tries to jam a standard plug into it *deserves* whatever
bad things happen to him/her.
Click to expand...
Sounds like one of those funky plugs that Hubbell makes.
You can get those from Grainger, Allied or probably any
good electrical supply house serves comercial or industrial
customers. Might be more than the guy wants to spend,
though.
 
In sci.electronics.design Chris W <1qazse4@cox.net> wrote:
The problem with that is, someone might find the cable with the switch
and plug on the end, wonder what it does, plug it in and flip the switch.
Best case, they trip a breaker, worst case something starts on fire.
Click to expand...
How much current does the switch have to handle? If it's just a few
amps, you might put an inline fuse in the cord to the switch. If
anybody plugs it into the wall and flips the switch, the fuse probably
blows before the breaker.

You could use the type of connector that is on computer power cords.
Something like a Digi-Key Q223-ND ($1) on the control box, and a Q216-ND
($7) on the end of the switch cord.

You could go for the old-time look with a Jones connector. Mouser
538-23023 ($1.50) on the control box and 538-13021 ($2.50) on the
switch cord.

Matt Roberds
 
On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 00:56:01 -0500, the renowned Eric Inazaki
<eric@deadbeat.wustl.edu.invalid> wrote:

In article <42576992.FFFBA688@att.net>, Michael <NoSpam@att.net> wrote:

Chris W wrote:

I have a control box with a 2 wire cable going out to a SPST switch that
switches 120V AC line. I want to put a socket on in the box and a plug
on the wire with the switch so I can disconnect it when it isn't
needed. The easiest thing I can think of would be to use a standard 2
prong outlet and plug. The problem with that is, someone might find the
cable with the switch and plug on the end, wonder what it does, plug it
in and flip the switch. Best case, they trip a breaker, worst case
something starts on fire. So I don't like that idea. I have been
searching Mouser and Digikey and the only other panel mount socket and
matching plug I have found are the round ones that have from two on up
to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

--
Chris W



Keyed AC socket and plug? Pins on the plug I'm talking about are flat but
slightly curved, and laid out in a circular pattern. Can't remember what
they're called. Plug in and twist. Locked! A bonus is that the socket is so
wierd that anyone who tries to jam a standard plug into it *deserves* whatever
bad things happen to him/her.

Sounds like one of those funky plugs that Hubbell makes.
You can get those from Grainger, Allied or probably any
good electrical supply house serves comercial or industrial
customers. Might be more than the guy wants to spend,
though.
Click to expand...
There are some slightly more oddball connectors available easily (say,
from Home Despot in the US/Canada) including 120V twist-lock
connectors. Very cheap, IIRC, though not as cheap as domestic blade
plugs/sockets. XLR connectors are probably rated for the voltage, but
I don't haven't looked at the safety aspect of the females, and
somebody could plug a microphone into his box. ;-)


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
 
On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 06:57:14 -0400, Spehro Pefhany
<speffSNIP@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> wrote:


There are some slightly more oddball connectors available easily (say,
from Home Despot in the US/Canada) including 120V twist-lock
connectors. Very cheap, IIRC, though not as cheap as domestic blade
plugs/sockets. XLR connectors are probably rated for the voltage, but
I don't haven't looked at the safety aspect of the females, and
somebody could plug a microphone into his box. ;-)


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
Click to expand...
XLR are available with a 240V rated 3-pin or more arrangement:

Electrical Ratings:
Current per contac
t 3 pole, 16 A
4 pole, 10 A
5 pole, 7ˇ5 A
Rated voltage 250 V a.c.
Test voltage 1500 V a.c.
Contact resistance Ł 3 mO
Insulation resistance ł 109O

These are Neutrik (Swiss) but I also seem to recall that Cannon did make a
specific 240V 2 pin plus earth XLR connector and socket, but I don't see it on
the RS catalogue now. We have a couple of bits of old kit in the workshop fitted
with these. The body insert moulding was Red and the pins were mechanically
shielded IIRC.

I'll have a look in some old Newark catalogues.

Peter
 
I read in sci.electronics.design that Peter A Forbes
<diesel@easynet.co.uk> wrote (in
<ldff511hlssn3pu6ipqid3a39l3l0lg7vo@4ax.com>) about 'Plug and socket
suggestion needed', on Sat, 9 Apr 2005:

XLR are available with a 240V rated 3-pin or more arrangement:

Electrical Ratings:
Current per contac
t 3 pole, 16 A
4 pole, 10 A
5 pole, 7ˇ5 A
Rated voltage 250 V a.c.
Test voltage 1500 V a.c.
Contact resistance Ł 3 mO
Insulation resistance ł 109O
Click to expand...
They are NOT rated as mains connectors DO NOT USE XLRs for mains!
These are Neutrik (Swiss) but I also seem to recall that Cannon did
make a specific 240V 2 pin plus earth XLR connector and socket, but I
don't see it on the RS catalogue now. We have a couple of bits of old
kit in the workshop fitted with these. The body insert moulding was Red
and the pins were mechanically shielded IIRC.
Click to expand...
It (the XLR-LNE) doesn't meet current safety requirements.

The IEC 60320 outlet socket and cable-mounting plug are made
specifically for what the OP wants to do, and meet all known safety
requirements. Why search for inferior, maybe dangerous, substitutes?
--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
There are two sides to every question, except
'What is a Moebius strip?'
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk
 
On Sat, 9 Apr 2005 13:02:53 +0100, John Woodgate <jmw@jmwa.demon.contraspam.yuk>
wrote:

The IEC 60320 outlet socket and cable-mounting plug are made
specifically for what the OP wants to do, and meet all known safety
requirements. Why search for inferior, maybe dangerous, substitutes?
Click to expand...
I wasn't, I was just pointing out what is (or was) available.

The ratings for the Neutrik connectors are from their website.

Peter
 
On Sat, 9 Apr 2005 13:02:53 +0100, the renowned John Woodgate
<jmw@jmwa.demon.contraspam.yuk> wrote:

I read in sci.electronics.design that Peter A Forbes
diesel@easynet.co.uk> wrote (in
ldff511hlssn3pu6ipqid3a39l3l0lg7vo@4ax.com>) about 'Plug and socket
suggestion needed', on Sat, 9 Apr 2005:

XLR are available with a 240V rated 3-pin or more arrangement:

Electrical Ratings:
Current per contac
t 3 pole, 16 A
4 pole, 10 A
5 pole, 7ˇ5 A
Rated voltage 250 V a.c.
Test voltage 1500 V a.c.
Contact resistance Ł 3 mO
Insulation resistance ł 109O

They are NOT rated as mains connectors DO NOT USE XLRs for mains!
Click to expand...
Yes, it was more of an amusing (?) suggestion. There are a lot of
wimpy little connectors rated at 300V that should never see anything
more than 24V and even that at limited current.


These are Neutrik (Swiss) but I also seem to recall that Cannon did
make a specific 240V 2 pin plus earth XLR connector and socket, but I
don't see it on the RS catalogue now. We have a couple of bits of old
kit in the workshop fitted with these. The body insert moulding was Red
and the pins were mechanically shielded IIRC.

It (the XLR-LNE) doesn't meet current safety requirements.

The IEC 60320 outlet socket and cable-mounting plug are made
specifically for what the OP wants to do, and meet all known safety
requirements. Why search for inferior, maybe dangerous, substitutes?
Click to expand...



Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
 
I read in sci.electronics.design that Peter A Forbes
<diesel@easynet.co.uk> wrote (in
<ttjf515heej413bud48avb3ngn11j9k9au@4ax.com>) about 'Plug and socket
suggestion needed', on Sat, 9 Apr 2005:
On Sat, 9 Apr 2005 13:02:53 +0100, John Woodgate
jmw@jmwa.demon.contraspam.yuk
wrote:

The IEC 60320 outlet socket and cable-mounting plug are made
specifically for what the OP wants to do, and meet all known safety
requirements. Why search for inferior, maybe dangerous, substitutes?

I wasn't, I was just pointing out what is (or was) available.
Click to expand...
I didn't mean you, I meant the OP, if he hasn't got tired and gone away.
The ratings for the Neutrik connectors are from their website.

They are, but you need to understand what they mean, and what they don't
Click to expand...
mean. The clearance and creepage distances for mains connectors have to
take into account that voltage spikes occur, up to 10 times the supply
voltage quite often, and occasionally up to 30 times.
--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
There are two sides to every question, except
'What is a Moebius strip?'
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk
 
I read in sci.electronics.design that Spehro Pefhany
<speffSNIP@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> wrote (in
<i4lf519vk3cb29eltvfe1nsq3j81klr5fd@4ax.com>) about 'Plug and socket
suggestion needed', on Sat, 9 Apr 2005:

There are a lot of wimpy little connectors rated at 300V that should
never see anything more than 24V and even that at limited current.
Click to expand...
That's why I persuaded IEC to make IEC 61984 a standard, not a report.
It gives safety requirements for connectors not covered by another
specific standard, as, for example, the IEC 60320 connectors are.
--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
There are two sides to every question, except
'What is a Moebius strip?'
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk
 
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