New battery, car still dead as doornail

[Eeyore]

Cleo Frank wrote:

Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.

Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
kind that came in car when new).

Unless the original battery was shot (and even if wasn't charging well that's
probably because there were only a few strands left of the earth strap), let's
hope they'll take it back then.

I made just the same mistake when an earth strap failed on a car of mine.
Halfords took it back though.

Graham

 

[Eeyore]

Mike wrote:>

Follow the positive battery cable away from the battery, it should go
directly to the main fuse which should be around 60 - 100 amps. It should be
blown, replace it. If it doesn't pull out you may have to unbolt it from
underneath. If you have no power at all you still have a blown fuse or fusible
link.

And follow the damn NEGATIVE connections all the way to the engine block too.

I know one lass whose negative connection to the block was relying on the
accelerator cable. Come deep winter and more cranking amps, the cable blew like a
fuse ! And I'd warned that as a recent secondhand purchase it needed a good look
over for any potential sillies but girls just can't think that way it seems, you
know the "but it was working" mentality.

Graham

 

[Eeyore]

Cleo Frank wrote:

"Mike" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote

Follow the positive battery cable away from the battery, it should go
directly to the main fuse which should be around 60 - 100 amps. It should
be blown, replace it. If it doesn't pull out you may have to unbolt it
from underneath. If you have no power at all you still have a blown fuse
or fusible link.

Main fuse? This one is not in the little box with the rest of the fuses?

Not all cars are the same. Don't worry.

Graham

 

[Eeyore]

DaveM wrote:

There is a chance that the heavy
cable from battery negative to chassis (or engine), or the cable from battery
positive to the starter or starter relay is loose

At least one other person here has some brains. The symptoms are classic.

Graham

 

[y_p_w]

Nate Nagel wrote:

(PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per N8N:

the Lowe's 3W 2C cell flashlight is the best I've ever owned, period.
And it's about $30. Kicks butt


I bought one for use on my bike.

Couple weeks later, I bought a half-dozen more tb used as gifts.

That's one *Brave* little light.

yeah, I think you might have actually contributed to the thread that
turned me on to it. I wouldn't have found it by myself as I don't have
a Lowe's real handy, but it was worth the trip. I also got the
replacement collimator from dealextreme to try to make it more suitable
for bike use, but haven't had a chance to ride after dark since it
showed up since every day I've had a free evening it's either been
raining torrentially, over 90 degrees, or both. I did ride a little
after dark with it as it was "out of the box" and it flat out rocks.

The closest Lowe's to home is a good 30 miles away from where I live.
Ticks me off too. We've got tons of Home Depot stores, but Lowe's
happens to carry the best 13W compact fluorescents (Sylvania brand)
I've ever seen. The fire up in less than half a second at near 100%
warmed up brightness immediately. And they were only $2 for a 2/pack
with a little incentive from our local power company (not a rebate
BTW). I'm just a little bit peeved that I only bought two boxes.

 

[hr(bob) hofmann@att.net]

On Jun 11, 7:59 pm, JeffM <jef...@email.com> wrote:

Cleo Frank wrote:
[...]bought [a] battery[...]  I did accidentally install it backwards

As has been said: high probability electronic items are smoked.

[...]the battery is now securely connected.
[...]no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

I start with the lights, then try lights+horn.

A voltmeter is a pretty lousy tool for troubleshooting this
(well, after an initial check of the battery).
The light-bulb probes they sell in auto parts departments
are better for this--or you can make your own with any auto bulb.

Unlike a voltmeter, because these PULL SOME CURRENT,
they are really good at sorting out a YES from a NO from a MAYBE.
You can also tell Pass/Fail out of the corner of your eye.

Clip the lead hanging out the end to a part of the body
and start probing with the point.
When you stop seeing it light up, back up.
If you can't get anything from the body to the + post of the battery,
the ground connection from the battery is open.

Start out by seeing if the headlights light, that will tell you if
there is at least some connection between the battery and the rest of
the system

 

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[Eeyore]

Franc Zabkar wrote:

tom@nospam.com (Tom) put finger to keyboard and composed:

I found this to be absolutely hilarious:
http://www.divshare.com/download/4712468-a34
I can understand the obvious misspelling, but what is "wafer" supposed to
mean?

I'm trying to understand the reason that an "S" is appended to
resistors, capacitors, and diodes, ie RS2, CS4, DS2.

A purely inspired guess would be that these are 'safety rated' components.

RS2 looks like it could be a flameproof part, CS5 is likely an X-rated cap,
RS3 a high-voltage type (looks like the start-up R that needs 350V rating).

And you can see some 'CY' Y-type caps too on the second pic.

And then the theory falls down brilliantly on the secondary side !

As for WAFER, if you're looking for a typo on a QWERTY keyboard, then
possibilities include SAFER, WAGER, WATER, WAVER, WADER. However, I'll
wager it would be safer to keep water out of the power supply. I'd
also waver before touching the power connector, although wearing
rubber waders may afford some protection.

Google "wafer connector".

Graham

 

[Eeyore]

"Steve B." wrote:

I'm 99.9% certain it's a broken earth strap. You can usually check easily with a
heavy duty jump lead placed between some good (unpainted) contacts points on the
engine block and car chassis, re-making the connection, unless it's further back
the chain right at the battery (but unlikely).

Graham

When you hook up the battery backwards (the OP did) it doesn't cause
the "earth strap" to break.

I didn't say it did.

The OP says it failed to re-satrt long before he fitted the replacement battery.

Did you even bother to read the post properly ?

Graham

It burns out the fusible links or blows
fuses and maybe even cooks some electronic components.

Never cooked any for me, but it was just a brief touch. Wouldn't have given the
alternator diodes too long to live.

Graham

 

On Jun 11, 7:19 pm, b <reverend_rog...@yahoo.com> wrote:

On 10 jun, 08:26, corellians...@gmail.com wrote:
there's a limit to how much we can realistically achieve over the
internet without physically seeing the deck. perhaps a vid on you tube
may help? in any case, take it for a quote to a few repair places.
-B

Good suggestions, will follow up...

 

so now that you have the battery in correctly, are you getting 13.2
volts across it? that would be a good place to start.

 

[default]

On Thu, 12 Jun 2008 03:14:31 +0100, Eeyore
<rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:

default wrote:

Do you have a schematic of the electrical system? Connecting the
battery backwards will blow electronic gizmos and some steering
diodes. 1990 is late enough to have an engine computer and that may
be toast.

Believe it or not I have once stupidly done the same (just brushed the terminals
thankfully) but it seems everything was reverse protected.

Graham

I knew a guy who did that to a company truck - just long enough to fry
one or two diodes - from that moment on the charging indicator would
glow dimly all the time but otherwise it ran OK.
--


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http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >100,000 Newsgroups
---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =---

 

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[Mark Lloyd]

On Thu, 12 Jun 2008 00:15:43 -0400, strabo <strabo@flashlight.net>
wrote:

[snip]

Walgreens has the ideal LED light.

- Machined aluminum
- Cylindrical
- 3 1/2" length
- 3 "AAA" batteries in tandem
- 9 white LEDs
- ON/OFF push switch
- Weather proof
- About $5.00

I got a bunch of them.

I have a couple of lights like that. They're very bright. One of them
is often what I reach for when I need a good flashlight.

[spam snipped]
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"How could you ask me to believe in God when there's
absolutely no evidence that I can see?" -- Jodie Foster

 

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[y_p_w]

On Jun 12, 2:31 pm, "jf...@my-deja.com" <jf...@my-deja.com> wrote:

On Jun 12, 1:29 pm, bradsch...@prontomail.com wrote:> You realize there is a huge gray market in China for LEDs which are
marginal or test rejects that reputable companies stay away from...
It's the same market dynamics for microprocessors, and for
semiconductors in general. Nothing is really thrown away in the trash,
except absolutely dead parts - if it wiggles, somebody will sell it.
What you're doing is basically doing the 100% burn-in screen on these
lower or downgrade binouts. Also, infant mortality is only a very
small part of the so-called reliability bathtub curve - you've seen
only a few beginning data points and you really don't know where the
"knee" of the plateau of this curve is (the LED manufacturer does -
they know exactly what their failure rate curve is based on an
extended, accelerated life test and they also know exactly what kind
of burn-in duration is required to prove out a sample size whereas you
don't...). It's really you get what you pay for, even in China.

They came with batteries, so you can test them on the spot to
guarantee that it is not DOA (actually, for tourist qunatities, the
sellers will demonstrate them for you). Given the markups for at
least two additional middlemen, plus transportation costs, I am
reasonably comfortable that the ones I saw are of the same quality as
the ones sold at Walgreens, Kragen, and Harbor Freight. By
inspection, it certainly seems so. I would not make a trip to China
just to buy some LED flashlights, but I see no good reason not to buy
some if I am already there. At about US$1 each, I consider them
disposable, not treasured heirlooms.

The primary problem is going to be the quality of construction. Most
of the better "white" LEDs seem to come from Nichia Corporation of
Japan. Even many of the cheapie ones sold in China. As long as the
connection is solid and the reflector is reasonable, the light should
be OK.

 

[whit3rd]

On Jun 12, 5:17 pm, Johnhay...@letu.edu wrote:

I have red coming though when there shouldn't be anyone on the screen.
For instance, If I am at a no-input screen I can see some red on the
screen.

There are typically separate red/green/blue level and drive
adjustments in a TV set; get a good grayscale test pattern
(I assume you can hook up a DVD and load a test disk)
and adjust levels until the black band is without tint,
then adjust the level controls until the white band is also
neutral (white) in color.

These adjustments are on/near the video amplifier board,
and always well labeled (like, with red/green/blue colored
knobs). The SCREEN control also may be beneficial,
it's likely to drift with time. I'm not sure if you have a one-CRT
or three-CRT or LCD or DLP type projector, though...

Projection TVs also will benefit from dusting of the optics.

 

[Ross Herbert]

On Mon, 09 Jun 2008 17:03:25 GMT, Father Guido <FG@no.where> wrote:

:Hi,
:
:I have a Royal 80MX paper shredder that won't shred (go forward), it
:goes backwards fine so the motor etc. are working OK. This just
:happened suddenly last week. It's as if the paper detection circuit
:doesn't recognize paper being inserted. I took it apart and their is a
:small plug in connector on the main circuit board with 4 wires leading
:to a small trianglular shaped component (numbered only 0321, which may
:be a date code for all I know) with two wires going to each of what
:looks like 2 small blue plastic lenses. I assume that when paper is
:inserted a circuit (of light?) is broken telling the machine to turn
n and shred in automatic mode. I found nothing on the other side of
:the paper entrance, so maybe it bounces light off of the chromed
:roller. Anyway, getting a replacement part will be impossible, but...
:if I knew how this actually worked I could maybe short out the sockets
n the main board to make it think/detect there is always paper in it
:so it would always work, then I could just turn it off to stop it, and
:turn it on when I wanted to shred.
:
:Any thoughts?
:
:TIA!
:
:Norm


Usually, reversing a shredder is independant of the paper sensor. The paper
sensor only detects whether paper is inserted for shredding and the motor always
goes forward automatically. Only on paper jams does the motor need to reverse,
and that is accomplished by a manually operated reversing switch. That's how it
works on my old Fordigraph 100 Auto anyway.

 

[Roy]

On Mon, 16 Jun 2008 20:51:33 +0200, "nitro2" <nitro2@scarlet.be>
wrote:

Hi forum , anyone got the serial-cable layout for this unit .

I want to connect it to windows XP , but cannot find the cable anymore.

anyone ???

nitro2

http://www.networkupstools.org/cables/940-0024C.jpg

 

[Dave M]

On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 21:01:04 +1000, "Robert" <adslts57@tpg.com.au> wrote:

I have an Akai TV (Model CT-2167AT) which I've had for 11 years. It's still
working 100% and I want to keep using it as I'm happy with it - furthermore
it was a gift from my parents. The only problem I have is that some buttons
on the remote are no longer working, and I'm pretty certain it can't be
properly fixed.

I've had it fixed one time in the past and it didn't work for long
afterwards. I could cope without the remote but the buttons on the TV are so
small that it's just to difficult to operate it without the remote. I tried
a couple of universal remotes but they didn't work. Can anybody suggest
something to fix this problem without changing the TV.

Regards - Paul

If all else fails, you might try the following web sites to locate a replacement
remote:
http://www.mrremotecontrols.com/
http://www.remotes.com/
http://www.remotes-express.com
http://www.newremotecontrol.com/

You might have to find a replacement by searching by the part number on the
remote instead of the TV model number.

Cheers...

==============

Dave M

Never take a laxative and a sleeping pill at the same time!!