New battery, car still dead as doornail

[Cleo Frank]

Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.

Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

Ideas?

 

[Cleo Frank]

"Mike" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news4Z3k.210$rW4.133@fe109.usenetserver.com...

"Cleo Frank" <cf@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:fNY3k.3755$bh5.2344@bignews4.bellsouth.net...
Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the
dumpster
at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.

Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

Ideas?


Check all your fuses first and replace the ones that are blown. If you
replace all the blown fuses and still have problems you may have damaged
some electronics.

Thanks, I just checked some of the pertinent fuses and, unfortunately,
they are okay. I wonder if replacing the lead clamps might make
a difference. They're pretty clean, but are old enough to vote!

This car is a good old boy and I hate to trash it.
>

 

[Woody]

You need to get a mechanic who understands how to read a voltmeter and
diagnose the problem. I cannot diagnose a problem when the only facts known
are " I put the battery in backwards now it don't work".

"Cleo Frank" <cf@nospam.com> wrote in message
newsnZ3k.4511$s77.491@bignews3.bellsouth.net...

"Mike" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news4Z3k.210$rW4.133@fe109.usenetserver.com...

"Cleo Frank" <cf@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:fNY3k.3755$bh5.2344@bignews4.bellsouth.net...
Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the
dumpster
at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.

Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

Ideas?


Check all your fuses first and replace the ones that are blown. If you
replace all the blown fuses and still have problems you may have damaged
some electronics.

Thanks, I just checked some of the pertinent fuses and, unfortunately,
they are okay. I wonder if replacing the lead clamps might make
a difference. They're pretty clean, but are old enough to vote!

This car is a good old boy and I hate to trash it.

 

[DaveM]

"Cleo Frank" <cf@nospam.com> wrote in message
newsnZ3k.4511$s77.491@bignews3.bellsouth.net...

"Mike" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news4Z3k.210$rW4.133@fe109.usenetserver.com...

"Cleo Frank" <cf@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:fNY3k.3755$bh5.2344@bignews4.bellsouth.net...
Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.

Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

Ideas?


Check all your fuses first and replace the ones that are blown. If you
replace all the blown fuses and still have problems you may have damaged some
electronics.

Thanks, I just checked some of the pertinent fuses and, unfortunately,
they are okay. I wonder if replacing the lead clamps might make
a difference. They're pretty clean, but are old enough to vote!

This car is a good old boy and I hate to trash it.

Nope... The battery clamps are probably OK. There is a chance that the heavy
cable from battery negative to chassis (or engine), or the cable from battery
positive to the starter or starter relay is loose. Check the connections on the
other end of those wires. If they're tight and clean (not corroded), then they
are likely not the problem.
That said, there's a 99.97% chance that you've damaged the car's electronics
(computers). Your ECC (Engine Control Computer) is the guy that controls almost
everything under the hood. If he's dead, then your car is essentially dead.
Haul or tow the car to a *qualified* service facility for a thorough diagnosis.
If it's the ECC, make sure your Master Card and/or Visa are in good standing.
Judging from your description of events, the car might be beyond economical
repair.

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Experience: What you get when you don't get what you want

 

[Cleo Frank]

"Mike" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:lyZ3k.75$BF4.60@fe087.usenetserver.com...

Follow the positive battery cable away from the battery, it should go
directly to the main fuse which should be around 60 - 100 amps. It should
be blown, replace it. If it doesn't pull out you may have to unbolt it
from underneath. If you have no power at all you still have a blown fuse
or fusible link.

Main fuse? This one is not in the little box with the rest of the fuses?

 

[Cleo Frank]

"default" <default@defaulter.net> wrote in message
news:1213229053_8443@isp.n...

On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 19:59:56 -0400, "Cleo Frank" <cf@nospam.com
wrote:


"Mike" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:lyZ3k.75$BF4.60@fe087.usenetserver.com...

Follow the positive battery cable away from the battery, it should go
directly to the main fuse which should be around 60 - 100 amps. It
should
be blown, replace it. If it doesn't pull out you may have to unbolt it
from underneath. If you have no power at all you still have a blown fuse
or fusible link.

Main fuse? This one is not in the little box with the rest of the fuses?

Roger, not with the little bitty fuses but something much larger or
piece of wire designed to open with over current.

AOK, thanks a bunch. I'll do a little investigation on this tomorrow.
Thanks to you too, Andy and Mike, and Dave..

--


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[Jim Yanik]

"Cleo Frank" <cf@nospam.com> wrote in
news:UEZ3k.4573$s77.1640@bignews3.bellsouth.net:

"Mike" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:lyZ3k.75$BF4.60@fe087.usenetserver.com...

Follow the positive battery cable away from the battery, it should
go
directly to the main fuse which should be around 60 - 100 amps. It
should be blown, replace it. If it doesn't pull out you may have to
unbolt it from underneath. If you have no power at all you still have
a blown fuse or fusible link.

Main fuse? This one is not in the little box with the rest of the
fuses?

Most cars have TWO fuse boxes;one under the hood that holds the high
current fuses for engine stuff,and one under the dash for the rest of the
car. the main fusebox is usually close to the battery.

The main fuse is actually a fusible link;a metal strap designed to melt as
a specific current.

see your owner's manual,or get a service manual from an auto store or
online.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

[Jim Yanik]

"DaveM" <masondg4499@comcast99.net> wrote in
news:quednYuQp977-83VnZ2dnUVZ_srinZ2d@comcast.com:

"Cleo Frank" <cf@nospam.com> wrote in message
newsnZ3k.4511$s77.491@bignews3.bellsouth.net...

"Mike" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news4Z3k.210$rW4.133@fe109.usenetserver.com...

"Cleo Frank" <cf@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:fNY3k.3755$bh5.2344@bignews4.bellsouth.net...
Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the
dumpster at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the
car, and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the
usual click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.

Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

Ideas?


Check all your fuses first and replace the ones that are blown. If
you
replace all the blown fuses and still have problems you may have
damaged some electronics.

Thanks, I just checked some of the pertinent fuses and,
unfortunately, they are okay. I wonder if replacing the lead clamps
might make a difference. They're pretty clean, but are old enough
to vote!

This car is a good old boy and I hate to trash it.



Nope... The battery clamps are probably OK. There is a chance that
the heavy cable from battery negative to chassis (or engine), or the
cable from battery positive to the starter or starter relay is loose.
Check the connections on the other end of those wires. If they're
tight and clean (not corroded), then they are likely not the problem.
That said, there's a 99.97% chance that you've damaged the car's
electronics (computers). Your ECC (Engine Control Computer) is the
guy that controls almost everything under the hood. If he's dead,
then your car is essentially dead. Haul or tow the car to a
*qualified* service facility for a thorough diagnosis. If it's the
ECC, make sure your Master Card and/or Visa are in good standing.
Judging from your description of events, the car might be beyond
economical repair.

you can get a good ECU from a junkyard,for a fraction of wehat a dealer
would charge.
you MUST match the part numbers for your specific model and engine.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

[Scott Dorsey]

Cleo Frank <cf@nospam.com> wrote:

Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.

Sounds good. It would be a good idea to check the voltage with a meter
when running and not running so you know if it's just the battery or something
else, but that would indicate the battery.

Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

Ideas?

If you are lucky, you have just blown the fusible links on the battery
lines. More likely you have blown some fuses too. Worst case you've
blown the alternator, ECU, and a bunch of sensors with the reverse polarity
as well.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

 

[Cleo Frank]

"Cleo Frank" <cf@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:fNY3k.3755$bh5.2344@bignews4.bellsouth.net...

Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.

Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

It WAS the main fuse (80 A). The box that contained this thing
was right in front of my eyes practically the whole time, next to
battery ..DUHHHHHH

Car is now its usual chipper self!

THANKS!

Ideas?

 

[Rodan]

"Cleo Frank" wrote: 1990 Mazda Protege

I accidentally connected my new battery backwards
(neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
got some sparks. It is now correctly connected,
but no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.
___________________________________________

"Cleo Frank" wrote:

Update (for anyone interested). Problem discovered

It WAS the main fuse (80 A). The box that contained
this thing was right in front of my eyes practically the
whole time, next to battery ..DUHHHHHH

Car is now its usual chipper self! THANKS!
____________________________________________

Those of us who post here always enjoy hearing whether
our advice or opinions helped solve a problem. Thank you
for taking the time to report back.

Rodan.

 

[(PeteCresswell)]

Per N8N:

the Lowe's 3W 2C cell flashlight is the best I've ever owned, period.
And it's about $30. Kicks butt

I bought one for use on my bike.

Couple weeks later, I bought a half-dozen more tb used as gifts.

That's one *Brave* little light.
--
PeteCresswell

 

[Jamie]

Cleo Frank wrote:

Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.

Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

Ideas?


LOL!!!

Yeah, how about a complete over haul on your electrical system.
new EMC, Radio, clock etc..

If you're lucking, you could of simply blown some fuses ..


http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

 

[Silver Surfer]

My new capacitor arrived on the front porch late today. Pretty quick
delivery. That Kentucky place must be somewhere nearby.

The AC is humming again.

It was gratifying to see that the new capacitor was an Aerovox and made
right here in the USA.

"DaveM" <masondg4499@comcast99.net> wrote in message
news:Tdqdnfa7T7tpAdPVnZ2dnUVZ_oWdnZ2d@comcast.com...

"Silver Surfer" <SilverSurfer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:9cudnWL88v59E9PVnZ2dnUVZ_rCtnZ2d@comcast.com...
Mr. Goldwasser,

No, I did not test the capacitor. Just ASSumed it was bad.

Your worm analogy was excellent. That's exactly what this "creature"
looks like.

Mr. DaveM,

Capacitor is 25 + 7.5 microfarads at 370V.

My humble abode is in Moundsville, West Virginia, US of A.

New capacitor is on the way from Appliance Parts Pro's warehouse in
Kentucky.

My Master Card is taking a few days off to recover.


"DaveM" <masondg4499@comcast99.net> wrote in message
news:R82dnbsJP7e-YtDVnZ2dnUVZ_jydnZ2d@comcast.com...
"Silver Surfer" <SilverSurfer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:RISdna9_8atFR9DVnZ2dnUVZ_t_inZ2d@comcast.com...
Took the cover off my Crosley air conditioner to find out why the
compressor motor was tripping its thermal overload a few seconds after
kicking on.

The dual section running capacitor had a strange, twisty, grayish glob
coming out of its side. The stuff looked like one of those "snakes"
that the kids light on July 4th, but is was very hard and stuck tightly
to the capacitor body. Pried it off. Looked like a small hole where
it came out.

I assumed that the capacitor had bought the farm and ordered a new one.
Ouch! Best price on the Internet was about $70. Is what I described
typically what's found when one of these capacitors fails?


What's the value of the capacitor?
Where do you live (City/State/Country)?

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate
characters in the address)

Experience: What you get when you don't get what you want




Thanks for replying,
I wasn't prying... I was just going to try to help find a source for the
capacitor close to your location, but not so pricey. But, since you've
already ordered, I won't go to that trouble.

Those multi-section caps can carry a hefty price tag, but in many cases,
they can be replaced by two (significantly cheaper) single-section caps.
Mounting style and space permitting, of course.

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters
in the address)

Experience: What you get when you don't get what you want

 

[Mike]

"Cleo Frank" <cf@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:fNY3k.3755$bh5.2344@bignews4.bellsouth.net...

Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.

Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

Ideas?

Check all your fuses first and replace the ones that are blown. If you
replace all the blown fuses and still have problems you may have damaged some
electronics.

 

[default]

On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 19:59:56 -0400, "Cleo Frank" <cf@nospam.com>
wrote:

"Mike" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:lyZ3k.75$BF4.60@fe087.usenetserver.com...

Follow the positive battery cable away from the battery, it should go
directly to the main fuse which should be around 60 - 100 amps. It should
be blown, replace it. If it doesn't pull out you may have to unbolt it
from underneath. If you have no power at all you still have a blown fuse
or fusible link.

Main fuse? This one is not in the little box with the rest of the fuses?

Roger, not with the little bitty fuses but something much larger or

piece of wire designed to open with over current.
--


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http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >100,000 Newsgroups
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[Eeyore]

Tom wrote:

I apologize for the poor photo, here is a higher resolution photo of
the same PCB from a different angle (without the annoying popups):
http://www.divshare.com/img/4720478-d30
Even though there is a thermistor to the left of the connector, it is labelled
TH1 so I still don't understand what "wafer" is supposed to mean. This is the
main 120VAC power connector. The best explanation that I've heard so far is
that it's the "way fer" power to come in.

NO. It's simply Asian English. This may help. I believe wafer simply means 'polarising
bar'.

http://www.google.com/search?&q=wafer+connector

Graham

 

[Andy]

Andy writes:

I had a similar problem with a Hyundai Accent.
Exactly the same symptoms as low low battery OR
corroded battery terminals...
A hydrometer
said the battery was OK, a voltmeter said the battery and the
terminal connections were OK, fuses were OK, and I was stumped

UNTIL I saw some small copper bits on the driveway.......

It seems that mice or squirrels had made a little space for themselves
beside the battery and there was a wire in the way so they just chewed
it out to make more room.

Fortunately, they had left enough lead at the connector that I could
splice/solder in a jumper to repair the missing 3 inch section.

I never did find out which wire it was since once the problem was
fixed I lost interest. I THINK, however, that it went from the
positive
battery terminal to the fuse box, but I can't be sure.

So, you may have some missing wire sections.

This has happened to me in this car, my truck, and twice in
,my motorhome. Mice and/or squirrels....

Good luck.

Andy in Eureka, Texas

 

[Eeyore]

Cleo Frank wrote:

Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.

Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
it backwards

Oh - oh !

(neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

The earth strap bonding the engine to chassis is probably open.

Graham

 

[Eeyore]

default wrote:

Do you have a schematic of the electrical system? Connecting the
battery backwards will blow electronic gizmos and some steering
diodes. 1990 is late enough to have an engine computer and that may
be toast.

Believe it or not I have once stupidly done the same (just brushed the terminals
thankfully) but it seems everything was reverse protected.

Graham