Level 1 Charger Plug...

[John Robertson]

On 2021/08/26 5:24 p.m., Yaseen Ansari wrote:

On Monday, October 12, 2009 at 10:58:30 AM UTC-7, JA wrote:
Hi guys!
Please i need support!
I have an hex file and i need to split it in low bytes and high bytes.
My eprom programmer just don\'t handle this function.I have to burn one low
bytes eprom and one high bytes eprom.
Can anyone help me splitting the file in high-low (i can send by email the
hex) or helping me finding a tool to do this?
Best Regards
AC


Hi,
I
am looking for similar tool. Did you find a solution?

YA

Yaseen, there are DOS based programs for binary/Hex file splitting with
respect to EPROM programming. Can\'t recall the name but a bit of
searching should lead to the answer. This was talked to death back in
the late 90s and early 00s, so you should be able to track it down.

12 years is not a record for oldest Usenet post responded to!

John ;-#)#

 

[John Robertson]

On 2021/08/26 5:24 p.m., Yaseen Ansari wrote:

On Monday, October 12, 2009 at 10:58:30 AM UTC-7, JA wrote:
Hi guys!
Please i need support!
I have an hex file and i need to split it in low bytes and high bytes.
My eprom programmer just don\'t handle this function.I have to burn one low
bytes eprom and one high bytes eprom.
Can anyone help me splitting the file in high-low (i can send by email the
hex) or helping me finding a tool to do this?
Best Regards
AC


Hi,
I
am looking for similar tool. Did you find a solution?

YA

Yaseen, there are DOS based programs for binary/Hex file splitting with
respect to EPROM programming. Can\'t recall the name but a bit of
searching should lead to the answer. This was talked to death back in
the late 90s and early 00s, so you should be able to track it down.

12 years is not a record for oldest Usenet post responded to!

John ;-#)#

 

[Trevor Wilson]

On 25/07/2021 4:02 pm, Phil Allison wrote:

On Sunday, July 25, 2021 at 3:24:47 PM UTC+10, Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 25/07/2021 3:04 pm, Phil Allison wrote:
Trevor Wilson wrote:
================

**Audiosound?


** How\'d you guess?

**\'Cause his AM tuners were fabulous. I sold his SS AM tuners in my shop
(well, in truth, only a minuscule number, because they were very
expensive)


** The AM100 valve model was about A$125 in 1974.

Got mine at a discount cos I was working for Woollarah Hi-Fi at the time.
The SS version came out later.

**My recollection is that the SS tuner (AM only) sold for around $500.00
in 1985-ish.

** Probably correct.
The AM100 was sold at a tiny profit mainly direct to existing Audiosound customers.
Dealers were rarely involved.
Only competition back then was the \" Wright Audio Developments\" SS tuner.
As you know, I worked for Allen Wright too and while there modded a few tuners so the notch filter was at 9 kHz.
At that time he was building an upgraded model, full of ICs and featuring an LED digital frequency readout.
Till Ian Pogson of EA magazine stole the whole design.

**I have one of Allen\'s original ones here. I tried to pull it apart,
but I can\'t figure out how it comes apart. Glued?

FYI:

Took one of Allen\'s new models ( the AWE Tuner) home one night and did A-Bs with my Audiosound.
Though generally similar, the AM100 had a big edge in audio bandwidth on the ABC stations.
Like his earlier tuner, the new one also had no bypass switch for the notch filter.


For about $300.00 one could buy a quite decent, all
digital, Japanese AM/FM tuner. Of course, the AM section was utter shit.

** Dull and woolly sounding - you mean ?

**Well, yep. There was one Japanese tuner with a half decent AM stage:

https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/sansui/tu-x1.shtml

The internals were more like a proper communication receiver than a
domestic one. Impressive beast.

I suspect the reason why Aussie AM tuners reached a pinnacle of quality
was in no small part due the late adoption of FM in this country.

** Plus the fact that Aussie AM broadcast radio was far superior to other countries in sound quality.

( far fewer stations and much further apart compared to the US and Europe)

**Yeah, good point. You could enjoy far wider bandwidth without
interference.

 

[Phil Allison]

Trevor Wilson wrote:
=================

**I have one of Allen\'s original ones here. I tried to pull it apart,
but I can\'t figure out how it comes apart. Glued?

** I never had any problem opening one.
Maybe some fool has glued the top on your example.

Intriguing fact is that is it full of Australian made ( ATxxx numbers) silicon transistors plus one FET.
Aegis RF transformers, Roblan AM tuning gang and 6:1 reduction drive.

http://www.borrett.id.au/interests/av-system.htm

See 1/3 down the page.



...... Phil

 

[Peeler]

On Sat, 24 Jul 2021 21:31:30 -0400, Michael Trew wrote:

On 7/24/2021 2:54 PM, Peeler wrote:
On Sat, 24 Jul 2021 11:09:02 -0600, lowbrowwoman, the endlessly driveling,
troll-feeding, senile idiot, blabbered again:


I built a variation of this theme.

\"A variation of this theme\", eh, you ridiculous verbose bigmouth? LMAO

My God, are you annoying. Just shut the hell up. I found his post very
helpful.

Well, I find his feeding of the trolls, his idiotic \"flowery\" language and
his endless gossiping very annoying, senile twit!

 

[Peeler]

On Sat, 24 Jul 2021 21:31:30 -0400, Michael Trew wrote:

On 7/24/2021 2:54 PM, Peeler wrote:
On Sat, 24 Jul 2021 11:09:02 -0600, lowbrowwoman, the endlessly driveling,
troll-feeding, senile idiot, blabbered again:


I built a variation of this theme.

\"A variation of this theme\", eh, you ridiculous verbose bigmouth? LMAO

My God, are you annoying. Just shut the hell up. I found his post very
helpful.

Well, I find his feeding of the trolls, his idiotic \"flowery\" language and
his endless gossiping very annoying, senile twit!

 

[Peeler]

On Sat, 24 Jul 2021 21:12:57 -0600, lowbrowwoman, the endlessly driveling,
troll-feeding, senile idiot, blabbered again:

It should work. There are several DX sites but I don\'t know how useful
they are. DX Magazine was good but it was produced by one man who

Oh, fuck, the senile gossip is at it, again... <tsk>

 

[Peeler]

On Sat, 24 Jul 2021 23:43:17 -0600, lowbrowwoman, the endlessly driveling,
troll-feeding, senile idiot, blabbered again:


> I grew up in upstate New

Oh, no! Senile blabbermouth is at it again. LOL

 

[George Alibinisis]

On Monday, March 17, 2003 at 12:16:39 AM UTC+2, A. W. Jackson wrote:

I recently purchased a second-hand Commodore 1084S monitor to use with
my old videogame consoles (SNES, Saturn, etc.). I\'ve tried the
monitor out and it is fully functional, but there\'s a slight flaw in
the picture. There are fuzzy vertical bars of slightly lighter/darker
brightness (most clearly visible against a black picture) near the
left edge of the screen, running the entire length of the screen from
top to bottom. The bars\' position and size change when I adjust the
horizontal position and horizontal size knobs, so they\'re apparently
not actual phosphor burn-in (which leads me to hope that I might be
able to repair the problem). What kind of defect/damage might be
responsible for these bars, and is it repairable? I checked the
sci.electronics.repair TV repair and monitor repair FAQs and didn\'t
see anything that looked closely similar to my problem.
Also, I\'ve been searching the web for information on this monitor, but
it seems that at different times (or in different territories)
Commodore sold several different monitors labelled \"1084S\", because
all the \"1084S\" documentation I\'ve found on the web so far seems to be
for completely different monitors from mine. The monitor I have is a
\"1084S-P\" manafactured by Phillips in June 1988, according to the
label on the back. It has, for inputs, four RCA jacks (CVBS/L, C,
L.Audio and R.Audio), an 8-pin DIN for TTL RGB, and a 6-pin DIN for
analog RGB. There is also a plastic cover on the back which looks to
be the right shape and size for an SCART connector (possibly because
Commodore used the same case for both North American and European
versions of this monitor?) Also on the back are knobs for horizontal
position, horizontal size, vertical position, vertical size, a
pushbutton for switching between CVBS and LCA, and a pushbutton
labeled \"VCR\" whose function is unclear to me (nothing seems to change
on the screen when I push it). The front panel has knobs for hue,
brightness, contrast, color, sharpness, and volume, and a pushbutton
for switching between CVBS and RGB. Does anyone know where I can
download detailed information (such as a user\'s manual, or by some
miracle a schematic) for a \"1084\" matching this particular
description?
--Alex W. Jackson--

Hi Alex! Did you ever solve this? Having exactly the same issue with exactly the same monitor. Thank you in advance!

 

[Buck Fiden]

On 7/25/21 1:43 AM, rbowman wrote:

On 07/24/2021 09:21 PM, Michael Trew wrote:
I never got into HAM radio, maybe one day.  I used to sit at night and
tune through distant AM stations that I could pull in from eastern Ohio.
 One of my favorites to listen to is still 650 WSM in Nashville.  Kind
of an odd hobby for a pre-teen/teenager growing up in the internet era
(I\'m 26 now for reference), but I\'ve always enjoyed it.

I grew up in upstate New York and in the early mornings WOWO in Fort Wayne came in loud and clear with their reports on hog belly futures. They were a 50000 watt clear channel at the time.
Inner City Broadcasting bought the station for the express purpose of cutting it down to 10000 watts. WLIB, in NYC, is a black-owned station that is also on 1190 AM. With WOWO dialed down,
WLIB could go to 24 hour operation.

One of those twists of fate I worked in Fort Wayne years later and flew out of Smith Field, a small airport north of town. Climbing out to the southwest you\'d pass WOWO\'s antenna. It was
sort of spooky looking over and seeing an antenna

If you depart 17 out of GRR, there\'s a ~2000 MSL tower about 10 miles south.

One day I waved at a guy doing maintenance near the top of the tower.  He waved back...or maybe gave me the finger, I\'m not sure.

 

[Allodoxaphobia]

On Sun, 25 Jul 2021 10:42:44 +0200, Peeler wrote:

On Sat, 24 Jul 2021 21:31:30 -0400, Michael Trew wrote:

My God, are you annoying. Just shut the hell up.
I found his post very helpful.

Well, I find his feeding of the trolls, his idiotic \"flowery\"
language and his endless gossiping very annoying, senile twit!

And, you add _nothing_ of value to sci.electronics.repair ...
.... probably not to humanity all-in-all.

 

[Dušan Köszeghy]

Dňa utorok 14. júna 2016 o 22:25:21 UTC+2 používateľ rupert....@gmail.com napísal:

On Tuesday, 14 June 2016 18:13:21 UTC+1, dansabr...@yahoo.com wrote:
I don\'t know about this particular system, but some attempt to spin the disk PRIOR to the focus. The laser can detect its reflection without needing to be in focus. You may not see the focus attempt before the spinning.

Dan
Thanks Dan,
Very interesting - I have ordered both the driver and the ASP from Denon.
Will update the post when I get the spares.
Best regards,
Rupert

Hello Rupert, how did it work?
I have same issue. First of all. i have UD-M30 on which the tray would not open. I found sort of loosen rubber belt. Replaced it and everything was ok..
then, as we dont listen to cds very often, it got loosen again (the belt) and i decided to replace it as i had same from previous purchase.
Found out that after inserting cd it does not spin. Only spin it does for like a second is when i switch to CD from previous TAPE source.

Meanwhile i ordered the whole mechanism, so perhaps it will help.

 

[Dušan Köszeghy]

Dňa utorok 14. júna 2016 o 22:25:21 UTC+2 používateľ rupert....@gmail.com napísal:

On Tuesday, 14 June 2016 18:13:21 UTC+1, dansabr...@yahoo.com wrote:
I don\'t know about this particular system, but some attempt to spin the disk PRIOR to the focus. The laser can detect its reflection without needing to be in focus. You may not see the focus attempt before the spinning.

Dan
Thanks Dan,
Very interesting - I have ordered both the driver and the ASP from Denon.
Will update the post when I get the spares.
Best regards,
Rupert

Hello Rupert, how did it work?
I have same issue. First of all. i have UD-M30 on which the tray would not open. I found sort of loosen rubber belt. Replaced it and everything was ok..
then, as we dont listen to cds very often, it got loosen again (the belt) and i decided to replace it as i had same from previous purchase.
Found out that after inserting cd it does not spin. Only spin it does for like a second is when i switch to CD from previous TAPE source.

Meanwhile i ordered the whole mechanism, so perhaps it will help.

 

[Google Groups Idiots Strike Again]

George Alibinisis <george.alibinisis@gmail.com> wrote:

On Monday, March 17, 2003 at 12:16:39 AM UTC+2, A. W. Jackson wrote:
--Alex W. Jackson--

Hi Alex! Did you ever solve this? Having exactly the same issue
with exactly the same monitor. Thank you in advance!

Did you honestly think that replying to an 18 year old posting was likely
to get you anything more than insults?

Idiot.

 

[Google Groups Idiots Strike Again]

George Alibinisis <george.alibinisis@gmail.com> wrote:

On Monday, March 17, 2003 at 12:16:39 AM UTC+2, A. W. Jackson wrote:
--Alex W. Jackson--

Hi Alex! Did you ever solve this? Having exactly the same issue
with exactly the same monitor. Thank you in advance!

Did you honestly think that replying to an 18 year old posting was likely
to get you anything more than insults?

Idiot.

 

[Peter W.]

Oh. I dunno....

Perhaps a little competition for the Drongo from Down Under? No where near as polished, of course.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

 

[Peter W.]

That was five (5) years ago. But:

Generalized warning: OEM belts for obsolete equipment are generally a bad choice, as those parts in may cases are as old and have sat around just as long as the parts inside the unit. I have had 100% success ordering generic O-rings from McMaster-Carr to the correct size, configuration and diameter (and at a fraction of the OEM cost). I have a choice of materials, O, [], D, 0 or otherwise, even toothed, and they are fresh.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

 

[Peter W.]

Oh. I dunno....

Perhaps a little competition for the Drongo from Down Under? No where near as polished, of course.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

 

[Rayner Lucas]

In article <e3a257de-17d5-4549-b50d-6400a6ee4c4bn@googlegroups.com>,
george.alibinisis@gmail.com says...

On Monday, March 17, 2003 at 12:16:39 AM UTC+2, A. W. Jackson wrote:
I recently purchased a second-hand Commodore 1084S monitor to use with
my old videogame consoles (SNES, Saturn, etc.). I\'ve tried the
monitor out and it is fully functional, but there\'s a slight flaw in
the picture. There are fuzzy vertical bars of slightly lighter/darker
brightness (most clearly visible against a black picture) near the
left edge of the screen, running the entire length of the screen from
top to bottom. The bars\' position and size change when I adjust the
horizontal position and horizontal size knobs, so they\'re apparently
not actual phosphor burn-in (which leads me to hope that I might be
able to repair the problem). What kind of defect/damage might be
responsible for these bars, and is it repairable?

Hi Alex! Did you ever solve this? Having exactly the same issue with
exactly the same monitor. Thank you in advance!

It\'s been over 17 years since the original message was posted, so it\'s
unlikely that anyone remembers the result even if it did get fixed.

What have you tried so far to fix or narrow down the problem, if
anything?

It sounds like some kind of ghosting or ringing; is there a picture you
could upload anywhere (Imgur or similar) so we can see what it looks
like?

I\'d start by swapping the video cable and also trying a different video
source, just to make sure it really is the monitor at fault. Then I\'d
replace all electrolytic capacitors on general principle. These monitors
are decades old and there are probably multiple caps that have gone out
of spec by now, so just doing the whole lot can save multiple rounds of
troubleshooting.

There\'s a service manual for this monitor available at
http://www.zimmers.net/anonftp/pub/cbm/schematics/monitors/. The scan
quality is poor, but it\'s certainly better than nothing.

Rayner

--
Big-8 Management Board: https://www.big-8.org
Homepage: http://magic-cookie.co.uk

 

[Rayner Lucas]

In article <e3a257de-17d5-4549-b50d-6400a6ee4c4bn@googlegroups.com>,
george.alibinisis@gmail.com says...

On Monday, March 17, 2003 at 12:16:39 AM UTC+2, A. W. Jackson wrote:
I recently purchased a second-hand Commodore 1084S monitor to use with
my old videogame consoles (SNES, Saturn, etc.). I\'ve tried the
monitor out and it is fully functional, but there\'s a slight flaw in
the picture. There are fuzzy vertical bars of slightly lighter/darker
brightness (most clearly visible against a black picture) near the
left edge of the screen, running the entire length of the screen from
top to bottom. The bars\' position and size change when I adjust the
horizontal position and horizontal size knobs, so they\'re apparently
not actual phosphor burn-in (which leads me to hope that I might be
able to repair the problem). What kind of defect/damage might be
responsible for these bars, and is it repairable?

Hi Alex! Did you ever solve this? Having exactly the same issue with
exactly the same monitor. Thank you in advance!

It\'s been over 17 years since the original message was posted, so it\'s
unlikely that anyone remembers the result even if it did get fixed.

What have you tried so far to fix or narrow down the problem, if
anything?

It sounds like some kind of ghosting or ringing; is there a picture you
could upload anywhere (Imgur or similar) so we can see what it looks
like?

I\'d start by swapping the video cable and also trying a different video
source, just to make sure it really is the monitor at fault. Then I\'d
replace all electrolytic capacitors on general principle. These monitors
are decades old and there are probably multiple caps that have gone out
of spec by now, so just doing the whole lot can save multiple rounds of
troubleshooting.

There\'s a service manual for this monitor available at
http://www.zimmers.net/anonftp/pub/cbm/schematics/monitors/. The scan
quality is poor, but it\'s certainly better than nothing.

Rayner

--
Big-8 Management Board: https://www.big-8.org
Homepage: http://magic-cookie.co.uk