Level 1 Charger Plug...

[legg]

On Sun, 18 Jul 2021 15:32:09 -0700 (PDT), bruce bowser
<bruce2bowser@gmail.com> wrote:

On Wednesday, July 14, 2021 at 4:53:53 PM UTC-4, Boris wrote in alt.home.repair:
My daughter wants to install a window type A/C in two different rooms in
her home. She has no idea if the units she\'s looking at, which draw 4.9
amps (115v), would overload any particular circuit. Without mapping the
circuits, is there any way to know, other than plugging the unit in?

What else is plugged into the circuit?

You can get an idea of what outlets are on the same branch circuit
by fiddling with the fuse box an a sunny day.

Plug something noisy into the intended outlets and pull fuses
till it stops.

RL

 

[legg]

On Sun, 18 Jul 2021 15:32:09 -0700 (PDT), bruce bowser
<bruce2bowser@gmail.com> wrote:

On Wednesday, July 14, 2021 at 4:53:53 PM UTC-4, Boris wrote in alt.home.repair:
My daughter wants to install a window type A/C in two different rooms in
her home. She has no idea if the units she\'s looking at, which draw 4.9
amps (115v), would overload any particular circuit. Without mapping the
circuits, is there any way to know, other than plugging the unit in?

What else is plugged into the circuit?

You can get an idea of what outlets are on the same branch circuit
by fiddling with the fuse box an a sunny day.

Plug something noisy into the intended outlets and pull fuses
till it stops.

RL

 

[Stephen Wolstenholme]

On Tue, 20 Jul 2021 09:29:06 -0400, legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca> wrote:

On Sun, 18 Jul 2021 15:32:09 -0700 (PDT), bruce bowser
bruce2bowser@gmail.com> wrote:

On Wednesday, July 14, 2021 at 4:53:53 PM UTC-4, Boris wrote in alt.home.repair:
My daughter wants to install a window type A/C in two different rooms in
her home. She has no idea if the units she\'s looking at, which draw 4.9
amps (115v), would overload any particular circuit. Without mapping the
circuits, is there any way to know, other than plugging the unit in?

What else is plugged into the circuit?

You can get an idea of what outlets are on the same branch circuit
by fiddling with the fuse box an a sunny day.

Plug something noisy into the intended outlets and pull fuses
till it stops.

RL

A long time ago I had a house rewired. The fuses were clearly labeled.
That has never happened since. If I was doing the job I would label
the trips but I have retired.

Steve

--
http://www.npsnn.com

 

[bruce bowser]

On Monday, July 19, 2021 at 12:49:20 PM UTC-4, Peter W. wrote:

No need to know what else may be plugged into the circuit, as there is much else to consider first:

a) Given a 4.9A steady-state current draw at 115 VAC, that comes to 563 watts. Less than a standard hair-dryer (~1,200 watts). No big deal, even for a 15A conventional circuit (1,725 watts). Even one that shares a few other small things.
b) Given that the typical surge for a conventional AC unit is very roughly eight (8) times the steady-state, the circuit must be able to withstand a very roughly 38 amp surge. This is well within the capacities of a standard 15A or 20A circuit breaker - AS LONG AS THERE ARE NO OTHER LOADS. *And as long as the breaker is functioning properly*.
c) Most recent (modern) window units come with a GFI device mounted on the plug. So there should be no intrinsic danger of fire or overheating.
d) Never, ever use an extension cord with a window AC unit. Ever.

With these in mind:

Plug them in, and let them rip. Should a circuit breaker blow, you will know what is shared. Remove those shared items and start over. If both units happen to be on the same circuit, use only one (1) at a time.

Ideally any AC line should be (at least) a dedicated 20A circuit using (at least) 12-gauge wire. Then there would be no discussion. If this is a rental, I feel her pain. If this is owned, install the dedicated circuits as-needed. They will not go to waste.

A 20A circuit max rather than a a 15A circuit max on a 240AC residential hook up.

 

[bruce bowser]

On Monday, July 19, 2021 at 12:49:20 PM UTC-4, Peter W. wrote:

No need to know what else may be plugged into the circuit, as there is much else to consider first:

a) Given a 4.9A steady-state current draw at 115 VAC, that comes to 563 watts. Less than a standard hair-dryer (~1,200 watts). No big deal, even for a 15A conventional circuit (1,725 watts). Even one that shares a few other small things.
b) Given that the typical surge for a conventional AC unit is very roughly eight (8) times the steady-state, the circuit must be able to withstand a very roughly 38 amp surge. This is well within the capacities of a standard 15A or 20A circuit breaker - AS LONG AS THERE ARE NO OTHER LOADS. *And as long as the breaker is functioning properly*.
c) Most recent (modern) window units come with a GFI device mounted on the plug. So there should be no intrinsic danger of fire or overheating.
d) Never, ever use an extension cord with a window AC unit. Ever.

With these in mind:

Plug them in, and let them rip. Should a circuit breaker blow, you will know what is shared. Remove those shared items and start over. If both units happen to be on the same circuit, use only one (1) at a time.

Ideally any AC line should be (at least) a dedicated 20A circuit using (at least) 12-gauge wire. Then there would be no discussion. If this is a rental, I feel her pain. If this is owned, install the dedicated circuits as-needed. They will not go to waste.

A 20A circuit max rather than a a 15A circuit max on a 240AC residential hook up.

 

[bruce bowser]

On Wednesday, July 21, 2021 at 2:10:33 PM UTC-4, bruce bowser wrote in alt.home.repair:

On Wednesday, July 21, 2021 at 10:01:21 AM UTC-4, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 21 Jul 2021 06:29:13 -0700 (PDT), bruce
bowser <bruce2...@gmail.com> wrote:

On Tuesday, July 20, 2021 at 9:31:19 PM UTC-4, Alisha wrote:
I recently moved and my ac unit is a 220 and the only plug I have is a 110 how do I make this work

--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/moving-from-a-220-plug-to-a-110-what-do-i-need-3145094-.htm

Moving from a 220 plug to a 110 what do I need?

The outlet should look like this upper most pictured outlet:

-- https://www.zoro.com/leviton-receptacle-duplex-20a-5-20r-125v-white-cr20-w/i/G3837374/feature-product?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping%20feed&utm_content=free%20google%20shopping%20clicks&gclid=CjwKCAjwi9-HBhACEiwAPzUhHN1aeMWrf55qsUBQ3ZHvrWnhINUsWGnhs_7QFx7XMobaImvzxZflLRoCDSQQAvD_BwE
I don\'t think so. It\'s own url and label include 125V.
At peak or non-peak? Here in the 21st century we are designed to go over and under you know.

Plus, The left prong port has a horizontal port for 220 VAC 15-20A or for 120 VAC 15-20A.

 

[bruce bowser]

On Wednesday, July 21, 2021 at 2:10:33 PM UTC-4, bruce bowser wrote in alt.home.repair:

On Wednesday, July 21, 2021 at 10:01:21 AM UTC-4, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 21 Jul 2021 06:29:13 -0700 (PDT), bruce
bowser <bruce2...@gmail.com> wrote:

On Tuesday, July 20, 2021 at 9:31:19 PM UTC-4, Alisha wrote:
I recently moved and my ac unit is a 220 and the only plug I have is a 110 how do I make this work

--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/moving-from-a-220-plug-to-a-110-what-do-i-need-3145094-.htm

Moving from a 220 plug to a 110 what do I need?

The outlet should look like this upper most pictured outlet:

-- https://www.zoro.com/leviton-receptacle-duplex-20a-5-20r-125v-white-cr20-w/i/G3837374/feature-product?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping%20feed&utm_content=free%20google%20shopping%20clicks&gclid=CjwKCAjwi9-HBhACEiwAPzUhHN1aeMWrf55qsUBQ3ZHvrWnhINUsWGnhs_7QFx7XMobaImvzxZflLRoCDSQQAvD_BwE
I don\'t think so. It\'s own url and label include 125V.
At peak or non-peak? Here in the 21st century we are designed to go over and under you know.

Plus, The left prong port has a horizontal port for 220 VAC 15-20A or for 120 VAC 15-20A.

 

[N_Cook]

On 19/07/2021 16:54, N_Cook wrote:

On 04/02/2021 13:42, Branislav Drengubiak wrote:
Display datasheet is available www.amega.sk/brano/Displej.pdf
driver ST7567A

code (STM32 spi client ) is www.amega.sk/brano/main.c


Interesting info , I\'ve downloaded for later .
Just got back to this tide-gauge project, the optics part of it anyway.
The bored hole through the lens has to be offset from centre by the
half-inch of the separation of the laser output port and the centre of
the large lens. Also covering over the small inset lens, so as not to
confuse the range setting procedure.
Some stainless steel \"reusable drinks straws\" I found for guiding the
laser thru the lens without side-scatter being returned to the receiving
lens. Just trying out a pan of water , shrouded against false returns,
to check out over 20 metres initially. For real over tidal water comes
later.

I\'m way off trying to use this SPI coding , and I\'m no codesmith , but
for anyone else landing here, there may be an error in the
7segment/decimal conversion block

else if(c == 0x3F) decimal = \'0\';
else if (c == 0x06) decimal = \'1\';
else if (c == 0x6D) decimal = \'2\';
else if (c == 0x4F) decimal = \'3\';
else if (c == 0x56) decimal = \'4\';
else if (c == 0x5B) decimal = \'5\';
else if (c == 0x7B) decimal = \'6\';
else if (c == 0x0E) decimal = \'7\';
else if (c == 0x7F) decimal = \'8\';
else if (c == 0x5F) decimal = \'9\';

The hex 6D and 5B may need swapping around for the \'2\' and \'5\'

--
Global sea level rise to 2100 from curve-fitted existing altimetry data
<http://diverse.4mg.com/slr.htm>

 

[N_Cook]

On 19/07/2021 16:54, N_Cook wrote:

On 04/02/2021 13:42, Branislav Drengubiak wrote:
Display datasheet is available www.amega.sk/brano/Displej.pdf
driver ST7567A

code (STM32 spi client ) is www.amega.sk/brano/main.c


Interesting info , I\'ve downloaded for later .
Just got back to this tide-gauge project, the optics part of it anyway.
The bored hole through the lens has to be offset from centre by the
half-inch of the separation of the laser output port and the centre of
the large lens. Also covering over the small inset lens, so as not to
confuse the range setting procedure.
Some stainless steel \"reusable drinks straws\" I found for guiding the
laser thru the lens without side-scatter being returned to the receiving
lens. Just trying out a pan of water , shrouded against false returns,
to check out over 20 metres initially. For real over tidal water comes
later.

I\'m way off trying to use this SPI coding , and I\'m no codesmith , but
for anyone else landing here, there may be an error in the
7segment/decimal conversion block

else if(c == 0x3F) decimal = \'0\';
else if (c == 0x06) decimal = \'1\';
else if (c == 0x6D) decimal = \'2\';
else if (c == 0x4F) decimal = \'3\';
else if (c == 0x56) decimal = \'4\';
else if (c == 0x5B) decimal = \'5\';
else if (c == 0x7B) decimal = \'6\';
else if (c == 0x0E) decimal = \'7\';
else if (c == 0x7F) decimal = \'8\';
else if (c == 0x5F) decimal = \'9\';

The hex 6D and 5B may need swapping around for the \'2\' and \'5\'

--
Global sea level rise to 2100 from curve-fitted existing altimetry data
<http://diverse.4mg.com/slr.htm>

 

[micky]

In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 23 Jul 2021 12:30:09 -0400, Clare Snyder
<clare@snyder.on.ca> wrote:

On Fri, 23 Jul 2021 04:33:43 -0400, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com
wrote:

Do cars with plastic bodies, like the Saturn, give bad radio reception?
What would prompt that question? What properties of Plastic, or the
behavior of radio waves????

Actually, it\'s that car radios have always given me better reception
than house radios have. Is it the antenna, the ground plane? What?

If you are thinking of \"ground planes\" for the antenna, provisions for
that are easily designed into plastic vehicles, just like on airplanes
- but ground planes are most important for transmitting. Yes, a ground
plane WILL improve reception, but automotive radio antenna are seldom
anywhere CLOSE to \"optimized\" so the lack of a ground plane would make
an almost inperceptible difference to reception.

 

[Michael Trew]

On 7/23/2021 8:47 PM, micky wrote:

Actually, it\'s that car radios have always given me better reception
than house radios have. Is it the antenna, the ground plane? What?

Typically better reception in the car, yes, but that all depends on the
antenna set up. You can have a very good antenna at home, but one with
a fault in a car. I\'ve owned both. I\'d like to build an AM loop in my
attic to get better AM reception at some point.

I am very into AM radio, especially long-distance AM stations at night.
I\'ve owned cars where they seem to put no thought into the AM radio
band, and it shows (sounds). Dad had a Chevy Trailblazer (2006?) where
you could always hear the transmission or something interfering with the
AM reception.

 

[Phil Allison]

micky wrote:
===========

Actually, it\'s that car radios have always given me better reception
than house radios have. Is it the antenna, the ground plane? What?

** Car radios rely on a tuned, vertical whip antenna that has a modest ground plane - the car body.
This tends to work better than a small, ferrite loopstik - partly because the car antenna is normally *outdoors*.

Also, it is common for car radios to have a tuned RF stage prior to the frequency converter and IF.
So three tuned circuits instead of the usual two.

FYI they normally used inductance tuning.


..... Phil

 

[micky]

In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 24 Jul 2021 00:13:18 -0400, Michael Trew
<mt999999@ymail.com> wrote:

On 7/23/2021 8:47 PM, micky wrote:
Actually, it\'s that car radios have always given me better reception
than house radios have. Is it the antenna, the ground plane? What?

Typically better reception in the car, yes, but that all depends on the
antenna set up. You can have a very good antenna at home, but one with
a fault in a car. I\'ve owned both. I\'d like to build an AM loop in my
attic to get better AM reception at some point.

I am very into AM radio, especially long-distance AM stations at night.
I\'ve owned cars where they seem to put no thought into the AM radio
band, and it shows (sounds). Dad had a Chevy Trailblazer (2006?) where
you could always hear the transmission or something interfering with the
AM reception.

Wow.

The \'72 Buick and then the \'84 Chrysler and 88 Chrysler would get
perfectly here in Baltimore WRC, 980AM, in Washington, DC, a station no
indoor radio, even the fancy receiver, would get at all. (I\'ve only
lost interest in that station because it changed format.)

And for decades, one car radio after another, (maybe the Buick,) Chryler
and Toyota, would get WAMU, 88.5FM, (American University in DC),
perfectly, when only one inside radio would get it. Even now a much
different Toyota radio gets WAMU usually perfectly, when the one inside
radio no longer does as well. (For a while I was reporting to the WAMU
engineer when reception was good or bad, and he got it good, but months
later, it got weak again sometimes. (And like I say, that\'s the one
radio that gets it at all.)

At one point a friend gave me a nice wood \"box\" designed to hold a car
radio, an antenna, and a DC adapter, just for the sake of using a car
radio indoors, but at the same time he told me that it didnt\' work for
him (which is why he was giving it to me). So it seems like the
difference is the metal body on cars, all but a few cars.

The urls people have posted here (before electronics.repair was added)
make clear that the ground plane in the car makes a difference, and that
cars without one need a special antenna cable, but a) they\'re mostly
pushed for CB radios, b) it\'s not at all clear that the special antenna
is as good c) when shopping for an antenna, any with ground plane
provision probably make note of it, but those without do not, afaik,
warn people what is missing.

 

[bruce bowser]

On Friday, August 13, 2021 at 12:07:09 PM UTC-4, Michael Trew wrote in rec.food.cooking:

On 8/12/2021 4:53 PM, Sqwertz wrote:
On Thu, 12 Aug 2021 00:45:01 -0400, Michael Trew wrote:

The Waterfront and Homestead have been cleaned up some, but a fair bit
of it is still a cesspool. It\'s better than it was 20 years ago if that
means anything. I\'m perfectly happy living on the Ohio side.

Oh yeah, Well lad-de-dah. What do you think those of us who lived
in the Allegheny side in North Hills?

40.54578303758939, -79.99940320309688 to be exact.

-sw
Looks like a nice little house. I wish I had the 2 car attached garage.

I like to go scrapping in neighborhoods like that, people throw out
better stuff. I made more money on antiques thrown to the curb than the
3/4 ton of scrap steel that filled my truck. Always a treat when they
haul an entire central A/C condenser or evaporator with the
copper/aluminum core to the curb.

Old electronics from the 1980s does good too, sometimes. Like if someone throws out a Trash 80 or a Commodore 64. People will buy that stuff from you.

 

[micky]

In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 24 Jul 2021 00:13:18 -0400, Michael Trew
<mt999999@ymail.com> wrote:

On 7/23/2021 8:47 PM, micky wrote:
Actually, it\'s that car radios have always given me better reception
than house radios have. Is it the antenna, the ground plane? What?

Typically better reception in the car, yes, but that all depends on the
antenna set up. You can have a very good antenna at home, but one with
a fault in a car. I\'ve owned both. I\'d like to build an AM loop in my
attic to get better AM reception at some point.

I am very into AM radio, especially long-distance AM stations at night.
I\'ve owned cars where they seem to put no thought into the AM radio
band, and it shows (sounds). Dad had a Chevy Trailblazer (2006?) where
you could always hear the transmission or something interfering with the
AM reception.

Wow.

The \'72 Buick and then the \'84 Chrysler and 88 Chrysler would get
perfectly here in Baltimore WRC, 980AM, in Washington, DC, a station no
indoor radio, even the fancy receiver, would get at all. (I\'ve only
lost interest in that station because it changed format.)

And for decades, one car radio after another, (maybe the Buick,) Chryler
and Toyota, would get WAMU, 88.5FM, (American University in DC),
perfectly, when only one inside radio would get it. Even now a much
different Toyota radio gets WAMU usually perfectly, when the one inside
radio no longer does as well. (For a while I was reporting to the WAMU
engineer when reception was good or bad, and he got it good, but months
later, it got weak again sometimes. (And like I say, that\'s the one
radio that gets it at all.)

At one point a friend gave me a nice wood \"box\" designed to hold a car
radio, an antenna, and a DC adapter, just for the sake of using a car
radio indoors, but at the same time he told me that it didnt\' work for
him (which is why he was giving it to me). So it seems like the
difference is the metal body on cars, all but a few cars.

The urls people have posted here (before electronics.repair was added)
make clear that the ground plane in the car makes a difference, and that
cars without one need a special antenna cable, but a) they\'re mostly
pushed for CB radios, b) it\'s not at all clear that the special antenna
is as good c) when shopping for an antenna, any with ground plane
provision probably make note of it, but those without do not, afaik,
warn people what is missing.

 

[Ralph Mowery]

In article <q76ofg9e48u9nb1k4kpouknn7vdpr704ba@4ax.com>, NONONOmisc07
@fmguy.com says...

And for decades, one car radio after another, (maybe the Buick,) Chryler
and Toyota, would get WAMU, 88.5FM, (American University in DC),
perfectly, when only one inside radio would get it. Even now a much
different Toyota radio gets WAMU usually perfectly, when the one inside
radio no longer does as well. (For a while I was reporting to the WAMU
engineer when reception was good or bad, and he got it good, but months
later, it got weak again sometimes. (And like I say, that\'s the one
radio that gets it at all.)

One other thing about the radio in the house is that some homes have so
much metal in them , especially the aluminum siding and foil reflecting
insulation that the radio signals have a hard time getting in to the
house.

 

[Ralph Mowery]

In article <q76ofg9e48u9nb1k4kpouknn7vdpr704ba@4ax.com>, NONONOmisc07
@fmguy.com says...

The urls people have posted here (before electronics.repair was added)
make clear that the ground plane in the car makes a difference, and that
cars without one need a special antenna cable, but a) they\'re mostly
pushed for CB radios, b) it\'s not at all clear that the special antenna
is as good c) when shopping for an antenna, any with ground plane
provision probably make note of it, but those without do not, afaik,
warn people what is missing.

For AM radios in cars, the ground plane effect is almost nill. There is
some capacitance coupling from the frame to the gound, but that plays
very little in the AM band. The FM antennas are often built in the
windshelds and the metal of the car does not com into play there either
to ammount to anything.

To be much of a ground plane at the AM band you would need a plate of
around 100 feet, 200 feet would be better. Just look at how tall the AM
transmitter antennas are. Those antennas have about 120 wires as long
as the antenna is tall burried in the ground.

 

[Frank]

On 7/24/2021 10:26 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:

In article <q76ofg9e48u9nb1k4kpouknn7vdpr704ba@4ax.com>, NONONOmisc07
@fmguy.com says...

The urls people have posted here (before electronics.repair was added)
make clear that the ground plane in the car makes a difference, and that
cars without one need a special antenna cable, but a) they\'re mostly
pushed for CB radios, b) it\'s not at all clear that the special antenna
is as good c) when shopping for an antenna, any with ground plane
provision probably make note of it, but those without do not, afaik,
warn people what is missing.



For AM radios in cars, the ground plane effect is almost nill. There is
some capacitance coupling from the frame to the gound, but that plays
very little in the AM band. The FM antennas are often built in the
windshelds and the metal of the car does not com into play there either
to ammount to anything.

To be much of a ground plane at the AM band you would need a plate of
around 100 feet, 200 feet would be better. Just look at how tall the AM
transmitter antennas are. Those antennas have about 120 wires as long
as the antenna is tall burried in the ground.

This is the big difference in spectra that I looked at:

https://courses.lumenlearning.com/boundless-physics/chapter/the-electromagnetic-spectrum/


Shorter wavelengths penetrate better.

 

[Frank]

On 7/24/2021 10:26 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:

In article <q76ofg9e48u9nb1k4kpouknn7vdpr704ba@4ax.com>, NONONOmisc07
@fmguy.com says...

The urls people have posted here (before electronics.repair was added)
make clear that the ground plane in the car makes a difference, and that
cars without one need a special antenna cable, but a) they\'re mostly
pushed for CB radios, b) it\'s not at all clear that the special antenna
is as good c) when shopping for an antenna, any with ground plane
provision probably make note of it, but those without do not, afaik,
warn people what is missing.



For AM radios in cars, the ground plane effect is almost nill. There is
some capacitance coupling from the frame to the gound, but that plays
very little in the AM band. The FM antennas are often built in the
windshelds and the metal of the car does not com into play there either
to ammount to anything.

To be much of a ground plane at the AM band you would need a plate of
around 100 feet, 200 feet would be better. Just look at how tall the AM
transmitter antennas are. Those antennas have about 120 wires as long
as the antenna is tall burried in the ground.

This is the big difference in spectra that I looked at:

https://courses.lumenlearning.com/boundless-physics/chapter/the-electromagnetic-spectrum/


Shorter wavelengths penetrate better.

 

[micky]

In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 24 Jul 2021 10:21:07 -0400, Ralph Mowery
<rmowery42@charter.net> wrote:

In article <q76ofg9e48u9nb1k4kpouknn7vdpr704ba@4ax.com>, NONONOmisc07
@fmguy.com says...

And for decades, one car radio after another, (maybe the Buick,) Chryler
and Toyota, would get WAMU, 88.5FM, (American University in DC),
perfectly, when only one inside radio would get it. Even now a much
different Toyota radio gets WAMU usually perfectly, when the one inside
radio no longer does as well. (For a while I was reporting to the WAMU
engineer when reception was good or bad, and he got it good, but months
later, it got weak again sometimes. (And like I say, that\'s the one
radio that gets it at all.)


One other thing about the radio in the house is that some homes have so
much metal in them , especially the aluminum siding and foil reflecting
insulation that the radio signals have a hard time getting in to the
house.

I have T1-11 siding, not alumininum As to foil clad insulation, I
don\'t think so. I\'ve been in the walls a little bit when I put a
floodlight in the outside bedroom wall. House built in \'79, not cheap
but not the most expensive either. Plus there is a 6-foot wide window
facing DC from the bedroom, where many of the radios have been, with
aluminum window frames but the frames are not very big.