R
Rhiannon Pendragon
Guest
Does anyone sell an inexpensive indoor tabletop motion detector that controls
a lamp?
a lamp?
L
Luhan Monat
Guest
Rhiannon Pendragon wrote:
--
Luhan Monat (luhanis 'at' yahoo 'dot' com)
"The future is not what it used to be..."
http://members.cox.net/berniekm
mount it in a box yourself.
--
Luhan Monat (luhanis 'at' yahoo 'dot' com)
"The future is not what it used to be..."
http://members.cox.net/berniekm
M
mike
Guest
Luhan Monat wrote:
mike
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There's a battery powered X10 device that can control anything you want.
mike
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Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su
Guest
"Rhiannon Pendragon" <Rhiannon@Pendragon.xxx> wrote in message
news:Xns96299A9ABABC3RhiannonPendragonxxx@216.196.97.142...
table. You buy one of those blue electrical switch boxes for fifty
cents, and mount it in there. Run the wires out to the plug.
<Rant> I hate those things. At work, every time I'm in a room with
one, I'm under the desk hooking up the PC, or sitting there waiting, and
the damn motion sensor switch turns off. I gotta get up and wave the
hands or whateve to get it to go back on. And then a few mins later it
does it again! Grrrr.. >:-( </Rant>
news:Xns96299A9ABABC3RhiannonPendragonxxx@216.196.97.142...
You just buy onw that installs in a wall switch box, and put it on the
table. You buy one of those blue electrical switch boxes for fifty
cents, and mount it in there. Run the wires out to the plug.
<Rant> I hate those things. At work, every time I'm in a room with
one, I'm under the desk hooking up the PC, or sitting there waiting, and
the damn motion sensor switch turns off. I gotta get up and wave the
hands or whateve to get it to go back on. And then a few mins later it
does it again! Grrrr.. >:-( </Rant>
M
Michael A. Terrell
Guest
"Watson A.Name - \"Watt Sun, the Dark Remover\"" wrote:
photocell to make it flash when the lights go out, then set it somewhere
aimed at the motion light.
--
Former professional electron wrangler.
Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
Build one of your LED flashlights with infrared LEDs and a
photocell to make it flash when the lights go out, then set it somewhere
aimed at the motion light.
--
Former professional electron wrangler.
Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
R
Rich Grise
Guest
On Fri, 01 Apr 2005 00:21:24 -0800, Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, the Dark
was switched on, then off, then on in something like a second, it would
latch on and ignore the sensor until the next time it was turned off
and then on.
I have no idea if that's a "standard" feature, but it'd be worth
checking it out if you find yourself stuck one of those things again.
Cheers!
Rich
I had a back porch motion detector light, and it was "smart" - if it
was switched on, then off, then on in something like a second, it would
latch on and ignore the sensor until the next time it was turned off
and then on.
I have no idea if that's a "standard" feature, but it'd be worth
checking it out if you find yourself stuck one of those things again.
Cheers!
Rich
J
John Woodgate
Guest
I read in sci.electronics.design that alondra101@hotmail.com wrote (in
<1112392237.462045.205470@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
about 'Indoor
tabletop motion detector???', on Fri, 1 Apr 2005:
(s.e.marketplace removed as irrelevant)
--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
There are two sides to every question, except
'What is a Moebius strip?'
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk
<1112392237.462045.205470@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
about 'Indoor tabletop motion detector???', on Fri, 1 Apr 2005:
(s.e.marketplace removed as irrelevant)
--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
There are two sides to every question, except
'What is a Moebius strip?'
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk
W
Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su
Guest
"John Woodgate" <jmw@jmwa.demon.contraspam.yuk> wrote in message
news:GEiVJASIYcTCFwr9@jmwa.demon.co.uk...
circuits that I've seen have two things. One is a coupling capacitor
that's between stages. Another is the PIR sensor itself which has two
sensors and the output is the difference of the two. I guess that's to
prevent a parked car's warm hood from swamping the sensor and preventing
it from turning off. A resistor would be much like that, with no
apparent motion. So if you have a _moving_ warm body, it'll trigger the
sensor.
I'm not sure if lighting a small lamp in front of the sensor would do
the trick. If it was sensitive to that, the lamp that it turns on, once
on, would swamp the sensor and it would never turn off.
news:GEiVJASIYcTCFwr9@jmwa.demon.co.uk...
Yeah, I thought about that, too. One problem here is that the PIRI read in sci.electronics.design that alondra101@hotmail.com wrote (in
1112392237.462045.205470@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
tabletop motion detector???', on Fri, 1 Apr 2005:
Well, it's not that simple. The IR from the LED is short wavelength
IR, about 800 nanometers. The IR that the PIR motion sensor senses is
long wave IR, maybe 7000 to 15000 nanometers. So it's like pointing
a
VHF transmitter at an AM radio and expecting it to receive something.
Ain't gonna happen.
However I could put a spark coil in place of the LED and light a gas
jet or something. That should do it. Probably burn the place down
too! :-o
Replace the LED with a resistor that gets warm?
circuits that I've seen have two things. One is a coupling capacitor
that's between stages. Another is the PIR sensor itself which has two
sensors and the output is the difference of the two. I guess that's to
prevent a parked car's warm hood from swamping the sensor and preventing
it from turning off. A resistor would be much like that, with no
apparent motion. So if you have a _moving_ warm body, it'll trigger the
sensor.
I'm not sure if lighting a small lamp in front of the sensor would do
the trick. If it was sensitive to that, the lamp that it turns on, once
on, would swamp the sensor and it would never turn off.
M
Michael
Guest
"Watson A.Name - \"Watt Sun, the Dark Remover\"" wrote:
Back in the early 60's, one common attention-getter store display was a wig-wag
type, powered by a C cell. One of these, powered by a wall wart, with a heat
source on the wig-wag could keep a PIR busy.
Kinda hard to describe the design of that display wig-wag but I'll try. Picture
two pendulums, one end of each of them connected to the other at a pivot point
and each of the other ends connected to opposite ends of a curved bar magnet.
The bar magnet passes through a small coil. At one end of the swing, small leaf
spring switch connects battery to coil in the correct polarity to draw the
magnet. As soon as the swing starts, the switch opens, allowing gravity alone
to propel the pendulum through its swing to the other extreme. Once there,
another leaf switch connects battery to coil in the opposite polarity. Pendulum
is thus repelled once again and begins its swing back in the original
direction. And so on, ad nauseum. Basically it's the centuries old clock
movement with a battery, switches, magnet, and coil substuted for main spring
and escapement.
When I was ten years old I scavenged a wig-wag from a discarded display I'd
found in an alley behind a drug store cum kids' hangout. I dorked with that
silly thing for many, many hours.
Back in the early 60's, one common attention-getter store display was a wig-wag
type, powered by a C cell. One of these, powered by a wall wart, with a heat
source on the wig-wag could keep a PIR busy.
Kinda hard to describe the design of that display wig-wag but I'll try. Picture
two pendulums, one end of each of them connected to the other at a pivot point
and each of the other ends connected to opposite ends of a curved bar magnet.
The bar magnet passes through a small coil. At one end of the swing, small leaf
spring switch connects battery to coil in the correct polarity to draw the
magnet. As soon as the swing starts, the switch opens, allowing gravity alone
to propel the pendulum through its swing to the other extreme. Once there,
another leaf switch connects battery to coil in the opposite polarity. Pendulum
is thus repelled once again and begins its swing back in the original
direction. And so on, ad nauseum. Basically it's the centuries old clock
movement with a battery, switches, magnet, and coil substuted for main spring
and escapement.
When I was ten years old I scavenged a wig-wag from a discarded display I'd
found in an alley behind a drug store cum kids' hangout. I dorked with that
silly thing for many, many hours.
M
Mark Zenier
Guest
In article <1112392237.462045.205470@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>,
<alondra101@hotmail.com> wrote:
moving fan between the heater and the lamp sensor.
Mark Zenier mzenier@eskimo.com Washington State resident
<alondra101@hotmail.com> wrote:
How about a nichrome based emitter set at 98.6 deg F, and a slow
moving fan between the heater and the lamp sensor.
Mark Zenier mzenier@eskimo.com Washington State resident
J
John Woodgate
Guest
I read in sci.electronics.design that "Watson A.Name - \"Watt Sun, the
Dark Remover\"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com> wrote (in
<1150gunbnon5bdd@corp.supernews.com> about 'Indoor tabletop motion
detector???', on Sun, 3 Apr 2005:
amount of radiation, which is actually what the PIR is supposed to
detect!
--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
There are two sides to every question, except
'What is a Moebius strip?'
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk
Dark Remover\"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com> wrote (in
<1150gunbnon5bdd@corp.supernews.com>
about 'Indoor tabletop motion detector???', on Sun, 3 Apr 2005:
If there weren't, it wouldn't cool down. There is even a (very small)
amount of radiation, which is actually what the PIR is supposed to
detect!
--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
There are two sides to every question, except
'What is a Moebius strip?'
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk
W
Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su
Guest
"John Woodgate" <jmw@jmwa.demon.contraspam.yuk> wrote in message
news:ALGkKJNFsEUCFwS+@jmwa.demon.co.uk...
because they have a pair of sensors that only detect the difference
between the two, so if both change equally, there is no difference. If
they detected the absolute presence, then the first ray of sun coming in
the window and warming the wall would set it off forever.
Or at least 'til sunset. ;o)
news:ALGkKJNFsEUCFwS+@jmwa.demon.co.uk...
AFAIK, the PIR detectors don't detect the presence or absence of IR,I read in sci.electronics.design that "Watson A.Name - \"Watt Sun, the
Dark Remover\"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com> wrote (in
1150gunbnon5bdd@corp.supernews.com>
detector???', on Sun, 3 Apr 2005:
I'm not sure what the fan is supposed to do. There are no convection
currents coming off a body that low a temp.
If there weren't, it wouldn't cool down. There is even a (very small)
amount of radiation, which is actually what the PIR is supposed to
detect!
because they have a pair of sensors that only detect the difference
between the two, so if both change equally, there is no difference. If
they detected the absolute presence, then the first ray of sun coming in
the window and warming the wall would set it off forever.
Or at least 'til sunset. ;o)
M
Mark Zenier
Guest
In article <1150gunbnon5bdd@corp.supernews.com>,
Watson A.Name - \"Watt Sun, the Dark Remover\" <alondra101@hotmail.com> wrote:
molded and the motion of the subject. They have a sensitivity pattern
that looks like a fingers of a splayed out hand, (or, I think, a two
element sensor with interleaved patterns, hooked up as a differential
sensor). But you can get the same effect with varying IR. There was a
project in Electronics Now for a long range PIR that used a motor driven
chopper with a single sensor.
Mark Zenier mzenier@eskimo.com Washington State resident
Watson A.Name - \"Watt Sun, the Dark Remover\" <alondra101@hotmail.com> wrote:
PIR sensors are AC coupled. They get their AC by the way the lens is
molded and the motion of the subject. They have a sensitivity pattern
that looks like a fingers of a splayed out hand, (or, I think, a two
element sensor with interleaved patterns, hooked up as a differential
sensor). But you can get the same effect with varying IR. There was a
project in Electronics Now for a long range PIR that used a motor driven
chopper with a single sensor.
Mark Zenier mzenier@eskimo.com Washington State resident
R
Rhiannon Pendragon
Guest
"Watson A.Name - \"Watt Sun, the Dark Remover\"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com>
wrote :
enter a dark area of the house, to light my way until I can get to a
switch.
You'd think some smart guys would have already come up with a little
tabletop box motion controller with an outlet for a lamp. They already have
almost everything else.
As far as the X-10 option, I'm not interested in having to buy a whole home
control system just to do this.
wrote :
I understand, but I just want this as a little light to come on when I
enter a dark area of the house, to light my way until I can get to a
switch.
You'd think some smart guys would have already come up with a little
tabletop box motion controller with an outlet for a lamp. They already have
almost everything else.
As far as the X-10 option, I'm not interested in having to buy a whole home
control system just to do this.
D
Dave Platt
Guest
In article <Xns962EE6DB87673RhiannonPendragonxxx@216.196.97.142>,
Rhiannon Pendragon <Rhiannon@Pendragon.xxx> wrote:
so ago which had a tabletop sensor, and a one-piece plug-and-outlet
dongle connected to the sensor via a 6' cord. It was just what you
want, I think.
Haven't seen one since.
--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!
Rhiannon Pendragon <Rhiannon@Pendragon.xxx> wrote:
They do (or did) exist. I bought one at a surplus store a decade or
so ago which had a tabletop sensor, and a one-piece plug-and-outlet
dongle connected to the sensor via a 6' cord. It was just what you
want, I think.
Haven't seen one since.
--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!
W
Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su
Guest
"Mark Zenier" <mzenier@eskimo.com> wrote in message
news:d2s4j6$i22$1@eskinews.eskimo.com...
emitter with the fan blades. That'll work only if the fan causes a
difference between the pair of PIR sensors. If the fan affects both
sensors equally then they would cancel out.
Another point is that the fan blade speed would have to be slow. The
PIR circuits that I've seen use an LM324 opamp with a cap between O
and -I so that it's a low pass filter. If the fan's IR flicker rate is
above maybe 5 to 10 Hz, it wouldn't get thru the LPF.
news:d2s4j6$i22$1@eskinews.eskimo.com...
Ah, now I see what you want the fan to do. Modulate the Ir from the
emitter with the fan blades. That'll work only if the fan causes a
difference between the pair of PIR sensors. If the fan affects both
sensors equally then they would cancel out.
Another point is that the fan blade speed would have to be slow. The
PIR circuits that I've seen use an LM324 opamp with a cap between O
and -I so that it's a low pass filter. If the fan's IR flicker rate is
above maybe 5 to 10 Hz, it wouldn't get thru the LPF.
R
Rhiannon Pendragon
Guest
"Watson A.Name - \"Watt Sun, the Dark Remover\"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com>
wrote :
you could plug a lamp into.
wrote :
That's battery operated, I've been talking about a 120VAC desktop unit that
you could plug a lamp into.
M
Michael A. Terrell
Guest
Rhiannon Pendragon wrote:
Buy a replacement motion sensor and mount it on a plastic electrical
box then use a romex coupling to hold the wires. Cut an extension cord
in half to add a power cord and outlet. How hard can it be?
--
Former professional electron wrangler.
Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
Buy a replacement motion sensor and mount it on a plastic electrical
box then use a romex coupling to hold the wires. Cut an extension cord
in half to add a power cord and outlet. How hard can it be?
--
Former professional electron wrangler.
Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
D
David DiGiacomo
Guest
There are powerstrips which have a motion detector sensor attached to a
cable. That would do the job if you don't mind having the powerstrip on
the floor next to the table, and the sensor on the tabletop.
The ones I have seen are from: http://www.wattstopper.com
Unfortunately the list price is $90.
However, I have seen them in local surplus stores for $10-20.
For example, HMR: http://stores.channeladvisor.com/hmr-sf/Store/Tab.aspx?tabid=4
Here's one on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5765324384
--
David DiGiacomo, San Francisco, CA david@slack.com
cable. That would do the job if you don't mind having the powerstrip on
the floor next to the table, and the sensor on the tabletop.
The ones I have seen are from: http://www.wattstopper.com
Unfortunately the list price is $90.
However, I have seen them in local surplus stores for $10-20.
For example, HMR: http://stores.channeladvisor.com/hmr-sf/Store/Tab.aspx?tabid=4
Here's one on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5765324384
--
David DiGiacomo, San Francisco, CA david@slack.com
M
Mark Zenier
Guest
In article <Xns962EE6DB87673RhiannonPendragonxxx@216.196.97.142>,
Rhiannon Pendragon <Rhiannon@Pendragon.xxx> wrote:
shows two types. One is a wall wart that plugs into a wall socket with
a controlled outlet, and another is a extension for a screw base light
bulb socket.
About 15 years ago, I just took the sensor head off a Heath brand
motion sensor dual floodlight fixture and put it on a table lamp.
The sensor head is self-contained.
Mark Zenier mzenier@eskimo.com Washington State resident
Rhiannon Pendragon <Rhiannon@Pendragon.xxx> wrote:
A quick look in a Home Trends catalog <http://www.shophometrends.com>
shows two types. One is a wall wart that plugs into a wall socket with
a controlled outlet, and another is a extension for a screw base light
bulb socket.
About 15 years ago, I just took the sensor head off a Heath brand
motion sensor dual floodlight fixture and put it on a table lamp.
The sensor head is self-contained.
Mark Zenier mzenier@eskimo.com Washington State resident