Identify Wire

[M Philbrook]

In article <qeh82b9ag4l9e1irtr9sn1l3ddeusmd347@4ax.com>, krw@nowhere.com
says...

On Sun, 18 Oct 2015 17:16:59 -0400, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno
DLU1@DecadentLinuxUser.org> wrote:

On Sun, 18 Oct 2015 13:03:33 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr@gmail.com Gave us:

On Sunday, 18 October 2015 15:25:46 UTC+1, amdx wrote:
On 10/17/2015 9:10 PM, nt wrote:
On Sunday, 18 October 2015 02:45:22 UTC+1, Martin Riddle wrote:
On Sat, 17 Oct 2015 12:26:15 -0700 (PDT), nt wrote:

I've got lots of single conductor stranded reels of wire to identify. How do I tell if it's 0.1 or 0.2mm strands? My calipers aren't accurate enough.

0.2mm is 0.00787" What caliper can't measure 7 thousandths?

I suspect buying a better micrometer may be the solution.

Even the $10 (on sale) dial calipers from Harbor freight will do that.

Yup, looks like time to upgrade from vernier to dial.


No... caliper, digital.

Dial calipers don't have dead batteries every time you want to use the
tool.

Which is why with mine the cell is out in the storage case until use.

Jamie

 

[M Philbrook]

In article <768c8171-69ad-4990-b1f3-4061170985b8@googlegroups.com>,
tabbypurr@gmail.com says...

On Monday, 19 October 2015 15:32:02 UTC+1, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:
On Mon, 19 Oct 2015 05:11:49 -0700 (PDT), nt Gave us:

On Sunday, 18 October 2015 22:17:23 UTC+1, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:
On Sat, 17 Oct 2015 12:26:15 -0700 (PDT), nt wrote:

Yup, looks like time to upgrade from vernier to dial.

No... caliper, digital.

Meh, those won't last a lifetime. Just got some nice old twisty ones.

Twisty? So like you using a pair of flush cutters to cut staples and
get all buggered up, I guess you use calipers as mini wonder-bars to pry
things with.

Your brain is bent.

And for the price, they do not need to "last a lifetime", just like a
$20 watch does not. When it breaks, you throw it into your bomb timer
parts box, and go get a new one.

your brain is very damaged

Well that goes with out saying!

Jamie

 

[M Philbrook]

In article <n03deg$fnb$1@dont-email.me>, gnuarm@gmail.com says...

On 10/19/2015 11:26 AM, Lasse Langwadt Christensen wrote:
Den mandag den 19. oktober 2015 kl. 16.28.50 UTC+2 skrev DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno:
On Mon, 19 Oct 2015 04:09:12 -0700 (PDT), "dcaster@krl.org"
dcaster@krl.org> Gave us:

On Monday, October 19, 2015 at 3:20:03 AM UTC-4, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:

Retards who do not know how to turn off their tools get dead batteries
to match their dead brain functions.

The inexpensive Chinese digital calipers can only be turned off by removing the battery. The on off switch only turns off the display.

Dan
Wrong. I have a pair year with the battery lasting more than a year
now, and my pair from San Diego even longer, and one came from harbor
freight and the other from Radio Shack, and the one at Home Depot is
probably just as good.

If the soft off button on a Starret works, what makes you think the
soft off button on these still burns juice so terribly?

The soft off button on a handheld calculator has worked right for
decades.

I think you dorks are making shit up... AGAIN.

https://youtu.be/E8oopG2GpF0

The have to be on all the time to keep track of where they are

I would not argue this is not true. Mine seems to run the battery down
when in the case even when not used. I thought it was flopping about
pushing the on button when I handled the case, so I added a block of
Styrofoam to keep that from happening. Not sure it helps.

No, the unit is on all the time, it just does not take that much power
but if you don't use it much it'll be dead when you need it, remove the
cell and put that in the case when done..

You get what you pay for however, if you use it all the time then
you'll get full use of the cells.

Jamie

 

[M Philbrook]

In article <d4c3fdd8-0446-43b5-b475-52489bb40963@googlegroups.com>,
tabbypurr@gmail.com says...

On Monday, 19 October 2015 18:32:26 UTC+1, amdx wrote:
On 10/18/2015 6:06 PM, M Philbrook wrote:
In article <n00a18$nq6$1@dont-email.me>, nojunk@knology.net says...
On 10/17/2015 9:10 PM, nt wrote:
On Sunday, 18 October 2015 02:45:22 UTC+1, Martin Riddle wrote:
On Sat, 17 Oct 2015 12:26:15 -0700 (PDT), nt wrote:

I just made a post, about my cost being $1 a year, now you say I
could drop it to $0.50 a year!
This is the second time I've seen a reference to Aldie's. Don't have
them here, What is it?
Mikek

Aldi is a German supermarket chain that greatly undercuts the native competition. They also have a lot of diy tool deals, which are sometimes good value.

My old ones cost Ł1, about $1.50, and should last a lifetime. Cents a year. Hopefully the new one will also last.


NT

Yep, can't be the price of those WorkZone Tools

Jamie

 

On Monday, 19 October 2015 22:09:48 UTC+1, M Philbrook wrote:

In article <d4c3fdd8-0446-43b5-b475-52489bb40963@googlegroups.com>,
nt says...
On Monday, 19 October 2015 18:32:26 UTC+1, amdx wrote:
On 10/18/2015 6:06 PM, M Philbrook wrote:
In article <n00a18$nq6$1@dont-email.me>, nojunk@knology.net says...
On 10/17/2015 9:10 PM, nt wrote:
On Sunday, 18 October 2015 02:45:22 UTC+1, Martin Riddle wrote:
On Sat, 17 Oct 2015 12:26:15 -0700 (PDT), nt wrote:

I just made a post, about my cost being $1 a year, now you say I
could drop it to $0.50 a year!
This is the second time I've seen a reference to Aldie's. Don't have
them here, What is it?
Mikek

Aldi is a German supermarket chain that greatly undercuts the native competition. They also have a lot of diy tool deals, which are sometimes good value.

My old ones cost Ł1, about $1.50, and should last a lifetime. Cents a year. Hopefully the new one will also last.

Yep, can't be the price of those WorkZone Tools

You sure can, get decent used tools. WZ stuff isn't too bad, but it is still budget to at best mudget/mid stuff.


NT

 

[Dave Platt]

The inexpensive Chinese digital calipers can only be turned off by removing the battery. The on off switch only turns off the display.

Dan
Wrong. I have a pair year with the battery lasting more than a year
now, and my pair from San Diego even longer, and one came from harbor
freight and the other from Radio Shack, and the one at Home Depot is
probably just as good.

If the soft off button on a Starret works, what makes you think the
soft off button on these still burns juice so terribly?

I think you dorks are making shit up... AGAIN.

Think what you want to believe. But if you are really as intelligent you could figure out a simple test that would show what the truth is.

My own experience:

- I have two digital calipers. One is an inexpensive Chinese-made
model, purchased from Harbor Freight for somewhere around $20
(might even have been $15 on sale). The other is a Japanese-made
Miyotoyo, purchased (used) via eBay for around $90.

- Both models use a single LR-44 alkaline battery (or, alternatively,
an SR-44 silver-oxide battery).

- The two models are of essentially identical physical sizes and have
similar capabilities.

- The two models are stored under essentially identical conditions (a
foot or two apart, on a shelf in my garage).

- I always turn the displays off with the "on/off" button when putting
them into storage.

- After I bought the Chinese model, I found that it would consistently
"kill" a fresh LR-44 battery within a couple of months, even if I
didn't use it at all. The caliper would power up when I pressed
"on" but would almost immediately begin to flash its display with a
"low battery" warning. Since I use it infrequently I always had to
plan to put a fresh battery in for each use.

- An SR-44 battery lasts significantly longer in the Chinese model
(higher capacity and a flatter voltage discharge curve, I believe)
but the caliper will still kill the battery within a few months
even if the caliper is stored "off" and not used.

- I don't know how long a battery will last in the Miyotoyo. I bought
it two years ago, put in a fresh battery when I received it, and that
battery is still running it.

My inference: the "standby-when-off" current drawn by the
Chinese-built Harbor Freight caliper, is higher (probably a lot
higher) than the current drawn by the Miyutoyo caliper.

I have heard the same story told by quite a few other people.

This isn't to say that *all* Chinese-built calipers are "battery
killers". It's entirely possible (and I suspect it's very likely)
that some models, from some OEMs/factories, are a lot better in this
regard.

The hard problem is figuring out which models (of the many types on
the market) are good ones.

 

[DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUn]

On Mon, 19 Oct 2015 17:10:01 -0400, M Philbrook
<jamie_ka1lpa@charter.net> Gave us:

In article <768c8171-69ad-4990-b1f3-4061170985b8@googlegroups.com>,
tabbypurr@gmail.com says...

On Monday, 19 October 2015 15:32:02 UTC+1, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:
On Mon, 19 Oct 2015 05:11:49 -0700 (PDT), nt Gave us:

On Sunday, 18 October 2015 22:17:23 UTC+1, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:
On Sat, 17 Oct 2015 12:26:15 -0700 (PDT), nt wrote:

Yup, looks like time to upgrade from vernier to dial.

No... caliper, digital.

Meh, those won't last a lifetime. Just got some nice old twisty ones.

Twisty? So like you using a pair of flush cutters to cut staples and
get all buggered up, I guess you use calipers as mini wonder-bars to pry
things with.

Your brain is bent.

And for the price, they do not need to "last a lifetime", just like a
$20 watch does not. When it breaks, you throw it into your bomb timer
parts box, and go get a new one.

your brain is very damaged

Well that goes with out saying!

Jamie

Oh look! The mouthy little bitch is back.

 

[DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUn]

On Mon, 19 Oct 2015 14:27:23 -0700 (PDT), Lasse Langwadt Christensen
<langwadt@fonz.dk> Gave us:

Den mandag den 19. oktober 2015 kl. 23.05.01 UTC+2 skrev DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno:
On Mon, 19 Oct 2015 13:59:18 -0700 (PDT), Lasse Langwadt Christensen
langwadt@fonz.dk> Gave us:

Den mandag den 19. oktober 2015 kl. 22.55.39 UTC+2 skrev DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno:
On Mon, 19 Oct 2015 08:26:53 -0700 (PDT), Lasse Langwadt Christensen
langwadt@fonz.dk> Gave us:
snip

The have to be on all the time to keep track of where they are

-Lasse

A caliper does not have to know where it is, and they have zero
buttons one presses when they are AT zero. Sheesh.

but they all do

-Lasse

Well if "they all do" then why is everyone pissing and moaning about
the Chinese models?

Which even the name brand models likely are, BTW.

if you had watched the video you would have noticed that the Mitutoyo
was 4.5uA/2uA, the cheap chineese was 19uA/16uA

-Lasse

I did not see any fucking video and there are several major makers out
there, not simply mutt--tut-toy-yo.

Usenet line length is 72 characters, and should be maintained at the
generation point, not by the reader client.

 

[M Philbrook]

In article <oqqa2blm7efet2tsnqcdea5pkd3gb3ul16@4ax.com>, DLU1
@DecadentLinuxUser.org says...

On Mon, 19 Oct 2015 17:10:01 -0400, M Philbrook
jamie_ka1lpa@charter.net> Gave us:

In article <768c8171-69ad-4990-b1f3-4061170985b8@googlegroups.com>,
tabbypurr@gmail.com says...

On Monday, 19 October 2015 15:32:02 UTC+1, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:
On Mon, 19 Oct 2015 05:11:49 -0700 (PDT), nt Gave us:

On Sunday, 18 October 2015 22:17:23 UTC+1, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:
On Sat, 17 Oct 2015 12:26:15 -0700 (PDT), nt wrote:

Yup, looks like time to upgrade from vernier to dial.

No... caliper, digital.

Meh, those won't last a lifetime. Just got some nice old twisty ones.

Twisty? So like you using a pair of flush cutters to cut staples and
get all buggered up, I guess you use calipers as mini wonder-bars to pry
things with.

Your brain is bent.

And for the price, they do not need to "last a lifetime", just like a
$20 watch does not. When it breaks, you throw it into your bomb timer
parts box, and go get a new one.

your brain is very damaged

Well that goes with out saying!

Jamie

Oh look! The mouthy little bitch is back.

I never went anyway..

Jamie

 

[krw]

On Mon, 19 Oct 2015 12:29:01 -0500, amdx <nojunk@knology.net> wrote:

On 10/19/2015 7:11 AM, tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:
On Sunday, 18 October 2015 22:17:23 UTC+1, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:
On Sat, 17 Oct 2015 12:26:15 -0700 (PDT), nt wrote:

Yup, looks like time to upgrade from vernier to dial.

No... caliper, digital.

Meh, those won't last a lifetime. Just got some nice old twisty ones.


NT

For around the home and home shop use, dial calipers are more useful
than a micrometer. I abuse mine, using them to scribe lines for a cut or
a bend. The price is right for making them do things they were not
designed to do.
I've had my cheap HF calipers for over 10 years, that $1 a year not
including shipping.
If they go on sale I'll by more, if they don't, I'll by more when
I need them.

For some reason the fractional dial calipers are significantly more
expensive than the metric and rarely go on sale at HF. I finally gave
up on the digital calipers a couple of years ago and bought one. I
don't abuse it (much).

I have several tools that use digital caliper mechanisms and they all
kill batteries. Taking them apart to take the batteries out after
every use isn't going to happen.

 

On Tuesday, 20 October 2015 09:25:37 UTC+1, Spehro Pefhany wrote:

On Sat, 17 Oct 2015 21:45:14 -0400, the renowned Martin Riddle
martin_ridd@verizon.net> wrote:
On Sat, 17 Oct 2015 12:26:15 -0700 (PDT), nt wrote:

And correct for insulation. Really, resistance is a pretty good idea,
assuming you're sure it's really Cu and not something more exotic.

If it's not copper colored *when stripped* and seems unusually
springy, be suspicious.

there is one that's not copper. No idea what it is at this point.


NT

 

[DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUn]

On Mon, 19 Oct 2015 18:02:47 -0700 (PDT), "dcaster@krl.org"
<dcaster@krl.org> Gave us:

On Monday, October 19, 2015 at 4:55:39 PM UTC-4, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:

A caliper does not have to know where it is, and they have zero
buttons one presses when they are AT zero. Sheesh.

So you are saying that you can not figure out a simple way to tell if the
the on / off button really turns off the callipers. Sheesh.

Dan

Where did I ever say that, you retarded "sheesh" piece of shit?

I have a quarter million dollars worth of gear in my lab right
downstairs. I can power the device (nearly any device) with a bench
supply and monitor current easier and better than you can, putz.

Figure that out, you mouthy fucking bastard. Stick it in your ass,
boy. You immature little piece of shit.

Do all of you stupid fucks get as dumb and assinine as the keithtard
when you get old?

 

[rickman]

On 10/19/2015 5:30 PM, Dave Platt wrote:

The inexpensive Chinese digital calipers can only be turned off by removing the battery. The on off switch only turns off the display.

Dan
Wrong. I have a pair year with the battery lasting more than a year
now, and my pair from San Diego even longer, and one came from harbor
freight and the other from Radio Shack, and the one at Home Depot is
probably just as good.

If the soft off button on a Starret works, what makes you think the
soft off button on these still burns juice so terribly?

I think you dorks are making shit up... AGAIN.

Think what you want to believe. But if you are really as intelligent you could figure out a simple test that would show what the truth is.

My own experience:

- I have two digital calipers. One is an inexpensive Chinese-made
model, purchased from Harbor Freight for somewhere around $20
(might even have been $15 on sale). The other is a Japanese-made
Miyotoyo, purchased (used) via eBay for around $90.

- Both models use a single LR-44 alkaline battery (or, alternatively,
an SR-44 silver-oxide battery).

- The two models are of essentially identical physical sizes and have
similar capabilities.

- The two models are stored under essentially identical conditions (a
foot or two apart, on a shelf in my garage).

- I always turn the displays off with the "on/off" button when putting
them into storage.

- After I bought the Chinese model, I found that it would consistently
"kill" a fresh LR-44 battery within a couple of months, even if I
didn't use it at all. The caliper would power up when I pressed
"on" but would almost immediately begin to flash its display with a
"low battery" warning. Since I use it infrequently I always had to
plan to put a fresh battery in for each use.

- An SR-44 battery lasts significantly longer in the Chinese model
(higher capacity and a flatter voltage discharge curve, I believe)
but the caliper will still kill the battery within a few months
even if the caliper is stored "off" and not used.

- I don't know how long a battery will last in the Miyotoyo. I bought
it two years ago, put in a fresh battery when I received it, and that
battery is still running it.

My inference: the "standby-when-off" current drawn by the
Chinese-built Harbor Freight caliper, is higher (probably a lot
higher) than the current drawn by the Miyutoyo caliper.

I have heard the same story told by quite a few other people.

This isn't to say that *all* Chinese-built calipers are "battery
killers". It's entirely possible (and I suspect it's very likely)
that some models, from some OEMs/factories, are a lot better in this
regard.

The hard problem is figuring out which models (of the many types on
the market) are good ones.

I think someone is suggesting that if you don't close the calipers and
turn them off and back on, they will read zero if they truly powered off
while the ones that remain powered when only the display is off will
retain the setting. Or better yet, turn it off, move the calipers and
turn it back on. If the displayed value is still correct, the unit
never turned off. I think I did this once and found my caliper was
running all the time. I haven't used either of mine for some time now,
but I think I eventually started removing the batteries when putting
them back in the drawer.

The micrometer and dial caliper, on the other hand, both work all the
time no matter how I store them.

--

Rick

 

[rickman]

On 10/19/2015 3:35 PM, tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:

On Monday, 19 October 2015 18:32:26 UTC+1, amdx wrote:
On 10/18/2015 6:06 PM, M Philbrook wrote:
In article <n00a18$nq6$1@dont-email.me>, nojunk@knology.net says...
On 10/17/2015 9:10 PM, nt wrote:
On Sunday, 18 October 2015 02:45:22 UTC+1, Martin Riddle wrote:
On Sat, 17 Oct 2015 12:26:15 -0700 (PDT), nt wrote:

I just made a post, about my cost being $1 a year, now you say I
could drop it to $0.50 a year!
This is the second time I've seen a reference to Aldie's. Don't have
them here, What is it?
Mikek

Aldi is a German supermarket chain that greatly undercuts the native competition. They also have a lot of diy tool deals, which are sometimes good value.

My old ones cost Ł1, about $1.50, and should last a lifetime. Cents a year. Hopefully the new one will also last.

I didn't know they sold tools and such. I was only in one a couple of
times. I didn't seem much of interest and left. I remember the last
time I went I tried to get a cart and found I needed to deposit a
refundable quarter to get a cart. I didn't have a quarter on me so I
went to Giant. lol Haven't been back since.

--

Rick

 

[Spehro Pefhany]

On Sat, 17 Oct 2015 21:45:14 -0400, the renowned Martin Riddle
<martin_ridd@verizon.net> wrote:

On Sat, 17 Oct 2015 12:26:15 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:

I've got lots of single conductor stranded reels of wire to identify. How do I tell if it's 0.1 or 0.2mm strands? My calipers aren't accurate enough.

All I can think so far is to snip a bit and optically compare.


NT

0.2mm is 0.00787" What caliper can't measure 7 thousandths?

The crappy plastic ones would be pretty dubious. They're okay for
measuring a '2 x 4'.

Wind it on a pencil? 13 turns (12.6 turn) per 0.1 inch. (0.2mm)

0.1mm is .00393"

Cheers

And correct for insulation. Really, resistance is a pretty good idea,
assuming you're sure it's really Cu and not something more exotic.

If it's not copper colored *when stripped* and seems unusually
springy, be suspicious.

--sp


--
Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
Amazon link for AoE 3rd Edition: http://tinyurl.com/ntrpwu8
Microchip link for 2015 Masters in Phoenix: http://tinyurl.com/l7g2k48

 

[dcaster@krl.org]

On Tuesday, October 20, 2015 at 2:59:57 AM UTC-4, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:

So you are saying that you can not figure out a simple way to tell if the
the on / off button really turns off the callipers. Sheesh.

Dan

Where did I ever say that, you retarded "sheesh" piece of shit?

I have a quarter million dollars worth of gear in my lab right
downstairs. I can power the device (nearly any device) with a bench
supply and monitor current easier and better than you can, putz.

Figure that out, you mouthy fucking bastard. Stick it in your ass,
boy. You immature little piece of shit.

Do all of you stupid fucks get as dumb and assinine as the keithtard
when you get old?

No you did not say that you were unable to come up with a simple test to show if the Harbor Freight calipers drain the battery when the display is off.

But your posts certainly indicate you may have the equipment but not the logic needed.

But when unable to use facts , you certainly prove you can use swear words.

Dan

 

[dcaster@krl.org]

On Tuesday, October 20, 2015 at 4:15:02 AM UTC-4, rickman wrote:

I think someone is suggesting that if you don't close the calipers and
turn them off and back on, they will read zero if they truly powered off
while the ones that remain powered when only the display is off will
retain the setting. Or better yet, turn it off, move the calipers and
turn it back on. If the displayed value is still correct, the unit
never turned off. I think I did this once and found my caliper was
running all the time. I haven't used either of mine for some time now,
but I think I eventually started removing the batteries when putting
them back in the drawer.

Rick

I was going to see if he could figure that out without help.

Dan

 

[DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUn]

On Tue, 20 Oct 2015 06:10:41 -0700 (PDT), "dcaster@krl.org"
<dcaster@krl.org> Gave us:

On Tuesday, October 20, 2015 at 2:59:57 AM UTC-4, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:


So you are saying that you can not figure out a simple way to tell if the
the on / off button really turns off the callipers. Sheesh.

Dan

Where did I ever say that, you retarded "sheesh" piece of shit?

I have a quarter million dollars worth of gear in my lab right
downstairs. I can power the device (nearly any device) with a bench
supply and monitor current easier and better than you can, putz.

Figure that out, you mouthy fucking bastard. Stick it in your ass,
boy. You immature little piece of shit.

Do all of you stupid fucks get as dumb and assinine as the keithtard
when you get old?

No you did not say that you were unable to come up with a simple
test to show if the Harbor Freight calipers drain the battery when the display is off.

Exactly. I DID NOT say it.

Just because I did not say it does not mean I cannot do it. The
discussion was about whether or not they did, not whether or not it was
tested locally.

>But your posts certainly indicate you may have the equipment but not the logic needed.

You're a goddamned idiot.

But when unable to use facts , you certainly prove you can use swear words.

When a buffoon jackass like you starts making bullshit claims about
someone, I tell you just how full of shit you are, dumbfuck.

And boy are you ever full of it.

 

[DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUn]

On Tue, 20 Oct 2015 06:13:02 -0700 (PDT), "dcaster@krl.org"
<dcaster@krl.org> Gave us:

On Tuesday, October 20, 2015 at 4:15:02 AM UTC-4, rickman wrote:

I think someone is suggesting that if you don't close the calipers and
turn them off and back on, they will read zero if they truly powered off
while the ones that remain powered when only the display is off will
retain the setting. Or better yet, turn it off, move the calipers and
turn it back on. If the displayed value is still correct, the unit
never turned off. I think I did this once and found my caliper was
running all the time. I haven't used either of mine for some time now,
but I think I eventually started removing the batteries when putting
them back in the drawer.

Rick

I was going to see if he could figure that out without help.

Dan

Still making the retarded claims that I can't figure anything out,
even thought it was elementary knowledge from 35 years ago. You are a
true fucking idiot, child.

I used to design power supplies... For over a decade. I think I know
how to characterize one. And yes, idiot, a battery is a power source.

 

[dcaster@krl.org]

On Tuesday, October 20, 2015 at 12:08:27 PM UTC-4, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:

You're a goddamned idiot.

But when unable to use facts , you certainly prove you can use swear words.

When a buffoon jackass like you starts making bullshit claims about
someone, I tell you just how full of shit you are, dumbfuck.

And boy are you ever full of it.

When I was in the Navy I observed that the more intelligent sailors cursed less.

So did you check your calipers to see if they are really shut off or does the on / off button only shuts off the display?

Dan