GE clothes dryer not hot

D

DaveC

Guest
This GE dryer (USA 240v model) has 4 heat settings: Hi, Medium, Low, Fluff
(no heat). It also has a moisture-monitoring setting ("More Dry" and "Less
Dry").

I presume the way 3 heat settings are accomplished is through the use of 2
different wattage heater elements. For example, Low = 1000w element; Medium =
1500w element; High = both elements.

There is now one heat setting: medium. All the settings of the heat switch
result in the same medium heat.

The filter screen is clean and the airflow out of the vent hose (I
disconnected it and checked the flow) is unchanged from a year ago (the last
time I remember checking it out). Mains voltage verified. No overheating
external connections.

How is it possible for the dryer to fail in a mode that results in only
medium heat?

Just trying to get a few ideas before opening it up.

GE model DBXR453ET3WW

Thanks,
--
Please, no "Go Google this" replies. I wouldn't
ask a question here if I hadn't done that already.

DaveC
me@privacy.net
This is an invalid return address
Please reply in the news group
 
In sci.electronics.repair DaveC <me@privacy.net> wrote:
I presume the way 3 heat settings are accomplished is through the use of
2 different wattage heater elements. For example, Low = 1000w element;
Medium = 1500w element; High = both elements.
This may be right. Another way it can be done is with two equal wattage
elements. Low = one element across 120 V, medium = one element across
240 V, high = both elements across 240 V. More common in electric ranges
that have off-1-2-3-4 pushbuttons instead of "infinite" heat controls,
but possible in a dryer.

How is it possible for the dryer to fail in a mode that results in only
medium heat?
Using your assumption, "low" element open, or faulty temperature switch.

Just trying to get a few ideas before opening it up.
Open it up. :) Most GE washers and dryers will have a schematic folded
up and taped somewhere inside the control panel. If you can read this
and drive a DVM, you can make some tests of the switches and the elements
at the control panel wiring, before having to pull the drum out to get at
the elements. Unplug the dryer first and watch out for sharp edges of
sheet metal inside it.

Matt Roberds
 
DaveC wrote:
This GE dryer (USA 240v model) has 4 heat settings: Hi, Medium, Low,
Fluff (no heat). It also has a moisture-monitoring setting ("More
Dry" and "Less Dry").

I presume the way 3 heat settings are accomplished is through the use
of 2 different wattage heater elements. For example, Low = 1000w
element; Medium = 1500w element; High = both elements.

There is now one heat setting: medium. All the settings of the heat
switch result in the same medium heat.

The filter screen is clean and the airflow out of the vent hose (I
disconnected it and checked the flow) is unchanged from a year ago
(the last time I remember checking it out). Mains voltage verified.
No overheating external connections.

How is it possible for the dryer to fail in a mode that results in
only medium heat?

Just trying to get a few ideas before opening it up.

GE model DBXR453ET3WW

Thanks,
Consider that your dryer is not just 240V it is 120-240V any element
can be running at 120V or 240V or 0V at any one time. It might also cycle,
but I don't think any do that to control the temp.


--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit
 
DaveC wrote:
This GE dryer (USA 240v model) has 4 heat settings: Hi, Medium, Low, Fluff
(no heat). It also has a moisture-monitoring setting ("More Dry" and "Less
Dry").

I presume the way 3 heat settings are accomplished is through the use of 2
different wattage heater elements. For example, Low = 1000w element; Medium =
1500w element; High = both elements.

There is now one heat setting: medium. All the settings of the heat switch
result in the same medium heat.

The filter screen is clean and the airflow out of the vent hose (I
disconnected it and checked the flow) is unchanged from a year ago (the last
time I remember checking it out). Mains voltage verified. No overheating
external connections.

How is it possible for the dryer to fail in a mode that results in only
medium heat?

Just trying to get a few ideas before opening it up.

GE model DBXR453ET3WW

Thanks,
Hi,

I presume the way 3 heat settings are accomplished is through the use of 2
different wattage heater elements. For example, Low = 1000w element; Medium =
1500w element; High = both elements.
Close, 2 of the same wattage elements and usually a couple of different
thermostats.

There is now one heat setting: medium. All the settings of the heat switch
result in the same medium heat.
One of the two elements broken, element grounded are a couple of
possible trouble makers.

Some take apart helps....
http://www.applianceaid.com/take-apart.html
http://www.applianceaid.com/ge-dryers.html
http://www.applianceaid.com/grounded.html

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/
 
"Joseph Meehan" <sligojoe_Spamno@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:99%Le.73713$zY4.20741@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com...
DaveC wrote:
This GE dryer (USA 240v model) has 4 heat settings: Hi, Medium, Low,
Fluff (no heat). It also has a moisture-monitoring setting ("More
Dry" and "Less Dry").

I presume the way 3 heat settings are accomplished is through the use
of 2 different wattage heater elements. For example, Low = 1000w
element; Medium = 1500w element; High = both elements.

There is now one heat setting: medium. All the settings of the heat
switch result in the same medium heat.

The filter screen is clean and the airflow out of the vent hose (I
disconnected it and checked the flow) is unchanged from a year ago
(the last time I remember checking it out). Mains voltage verified.
No overheating external connections.

How is it possible for the dryer to fail in a mode that results in
only medium heat?

Just trying to get a few ideas before opening it up.

GE model DBXR453ET3WW

Thanks,

Consider that your dryer is not just 240V it is 120-240V any element
can be running at 120V or 240V or 0V at any one time. It might also
cycle,
but I don't think any do that to control the temp.
Dryer elements that I've seen have all been 240v, I also had a Kenmore dryer
that had separate button thermostats which cycled the element depending on
the temperature setting, I figured most dryers did it this way.

If you have two elements and are only getting medium then the low element is
not working, either it's burned out, the overtemp thermostat is tripped or
defective, or the switch is bad.
 
Appliance Repair Aid wrote:
DaveC wrote:

This GE dryer (USA 240v model) has 4 heat settings: Hi, Medium, Low, Fluff
(no heat). It also has a moisture-monitoring setting ("More Dry" and "Less
Dry").

I presume the way 3 heat settings are accomplished is through the use of 2
different wattage heater elements. For example, Low = 1000w element; Medium =
1500w element; High = both elements.

There is now one heat setting: medium. All the settings of the heat switch
result in the same medium heat.

The filter screen is clean and the airflow out of the vent hose (I
disconnected it and checked the flow) is unchanged from a year ago (the last
time I remember checking it out). Mains voltage verified. No overheating
external connections.

How is it possible for the dryer to fail in a mode that results in only
medium heat?

Just trying to get a few ideas before opening it up.

GE model DBXR453ET3WW

Thanks,


Hi,


I presume the way 3 heat settings are accomplished is through the use of 2
different wattage heater elements. For example, Low = 1000w element; Medium =
1500w element; High = both elements.


Close, 2 of the same wattage elements and usually a couple of different
thermostats.


There is now one heat setting: medium. All the settings of the heat switch
result in the same medium heat.


One of the two elements broken, element grounded are a couple of
possible trouble makers.

Some take apart helps....
http://www.applianceaid.com/take-apart.html
http://www.applianceaid.com/ge-dryers.html
http://www.applianceaid.com/grounded.html

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

pop the top and watch the heater coil when it's running... if it cycles
"off" more than "on" (mine did about 10 seconds on and 50 off during a
minutes, no matter which temp you set it to, then suspect a clogged
exhause (not the little flexible 4" pipe leading from the dryer to the
wall - but the REST of it - the part that goes from the wall behind the
dryer to the outside... mine was clogged almost shut... when I cleaned
it out, problem solved. Now the dryer can get enough airflow that it
doesn't overheat the thermostat quickly (which shuts off the element),.
 
Steve Henderson wrote:

Appliance Repair Aid wrote:

DaveC wrote:

This GE dryer (USA 240v model) has 4 heat settings: Hi, Medium, Low,
Fluff
(no heat). It also has a moisture-monitoring setting ("More Dry" and
"Less
Dry").

I presume the way 3 heat settings are accomplished is through the use
of 2
different wattage heater elements. For example, Low = 1000w element;
Medium =
1500w element; High = both elements.

There is now one heat setting: medium. All the settings of the heat
switch
result in the same medium heat.

The filter screen is clean and the airflow out of the vent hose (I
disconnected it and checked the flow) is unchanged from a year ago
(the last
time I remember checking it out). Mains voltage verified. No overheating
external connections.

How is it possible for the dryer to fail in a mode that results in only
medium heat?

Just trying to get a few ideas before opening it up.

GE model DBXR453ET3WW

Thanks,



Hi,


I presume the way 3 heat settings are accomplished is through the use
of 2
different wattage heater elements. For example, Low = 1000w element;
Medium =
1500w element; High = both elements.



Close, 2 of the same wattage elements and usually a couple of different
thermostats.


There is now one heat setting: medium. All the settings of the heat
switch
result in the same medium heat.



One of the two elements broken, element grounded are a couple of
possible trouble makers.

Some take apart helps....
http://www.applianceaid.com/take-apart.html
http://www.applianceaid.com/ge-dryers.html
http://www.applianceaid.com/grounded.html

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

pop the top and watch the heater coil when it's running... if it cycles
"off" more than "on" (mine did about 10 seconds on and 50 off during a
minutes, no matter which temp you set it to, then suspect a clogged
exhause (not the little flexible 4" pipe leading from the dryer to the
wall - but the REST of it - the part that goes from the wall behind the
dryer to the outside... mine was clogged almost shut... when I cleaned
it out, problem solved. Now the dryer can get enough airflow that it
doesn't overheat the thermostat quickly (which shuts off the element),.
FWIW, I had the same thing happen with my gas dryer -- I think it's a
common problem, especially with long exhausts.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form che...@prodigy.net.
 
Thus spake Steve Henderson:

pop the top and watch the heater coil when it's running... if it cycles
"off" more than "on" (mine did about 10 seconds on and 50 off during a
minutes, no matter which temp you set it to, then suspect a clogged
exhause (not the little flexible 4" pipe leading from the dryer to the
wall - but the REST of it - the part that goes from the wall behind the
dryer to the outside... mine was clogged almost shut... when I cleaned
it out, problem solved. Now the dryer can get enough airflow that it
doesn't overheat the thermostat quickly (which shuts off the element),.
When troubleshooting externally (I've not opened it up, yet), I disconnected
the hose and felt the temperature of the air. It was only lukewarm,
unchanged, it seems, whether the hose is connected or not. Airflow is
maximum, I think. This rules out airflow blockage.
--
Please, no "Go Google this" replies. I wouldn't
ask a question here if I hadn't done that already.

DaveC
me@privacy.net
This is an invalid return address
Please reply in the news group
 
"DaveC" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:0001HW.BF28CF91005C4B77F04075B0@news.readfreenews.net...
Thus spake Steve Henderson:

pop the top and watch the heater coil when it's running... if it cycles
"off" more than "on" (mine did about 10 seconds on and 50 off during a
minutes, no matter which temp you set it to, then suspect a clogged
exhause (not the little flexible 4" pipe leading from the dryer to the
wall - but the REST of it - the part that goes from the wall behind the
dryer to the outside... mine was clogged almost shut... when I cleaned
it out, problem solved. Now the dryer can get enough airflow that it
doesn't overheat the thermostat quickly (which shuts off the element),.

When troubleshooting externally (I've not opened it up, yet), I
disconnected
the hose and felt the temperature of the air. It was only lukewarm,
unchanged, it seems, whether the hose is connected or not. Airflow is
maximum, I think. This rules out airflow blockage.
--
Please, no "Go Google this" replies. I wouldn't
ask a question here if I hadn't done that already.
Did you try the suggestions we already gave you? Are both elements
themselves ok? Are the thermostats closing? Is power getting to them?
 
<jtnospam@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1124343956.596709.114470@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Hang a clothesline, save energy and money, and quit whining.-Jitney
That's not permitted in most neighborhoods these days, I guess it depends on
where you live. Not only that, if I tried it in my area the trees would piss
sap all over the clothes and ruin them before they even got dry.
 
That's not permitted in most neighborhoods these days, I guess it
depends on
where you live.(snip)

Amazing how we give up freedom without even noticing, isn't it?

Not only that, if I tried it in my area the trees would piss
sap all over the clothes and ruin them before they even got dry.(snip)

How is it that people managed to dry clothes before automatic dryers
were invented?-Jitney
 
<jtnospam@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1124346452.267724.281680@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
That's not permitted in most neighborhoods these days, I guess it
depends on
where you live.(snip)

Amazing how we give up freedom without even noticing, isn't it?

Not only that, if I tried it in my area the trees would piss
sap all over the clothes and ruin them before they even got dry.(snip)

How is it that people managed to dry clothes before automatic dryers
were invented?-Jitney

Well in the case of families in this area they had several acres of rural
land and a sizeable portion of it was cleared for a back yard and field. Now
days land in this area is far too expensive for that and you're lucky to
have much of a yard at all and some trees for privacy. It's the price to pay
to live in a desireable area with a dense population.

Doesn't matter to anyway, I've never had to pay money for a clothes dryer
and have always been able to keep them running with minimal effort. The cost
of running one is trivial compared to all the other electrical crap in my
house. I was just trying to help the original poster.
 
That's fine. I live in the Southwestern U.S. desert, and poeple could
dry their clothes here in 15-20 minutes on the clothesline. Many want
to do so, but are prevented by the blockfhurer facist HOA committes.
This, in the middle of an energy crisis. I thought we fought a war to
defeat fascism. Silly me.-Jitney
 
James Sweet <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote:

Hang a clothesline, save energy and money, and quit whining.-Jitney

That's not permitted in most neighborhoods these days, I guess it depends on
where you live. Not only that, if I tried it in my area the trees would piss
sap all over the clothes and ruin them before they even got dry.
How about a nice hoophouse, aka polytunnel? A large 5 cent/ft^2 piece of
4-year greenhouse polyethylene film stretched over $5 double-curved 1x3
bows on 4' centers...

Nick
 
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Hash: SHA1

On Thu, 18 Aug 2005 06:10:57 GMT, "James Sweet"
<jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote:

jtnospam@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1124343956.596709.114470@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Hang a clothesline, save energy and money, and quit
whining.-Jitney


That's not permitted in most neighborhoods these days, I guess it
depends on where you live.
Since when?
I thought it was only disallowed in those gay communities under
Neo-Nazi HOA's. :)


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--
-john
wide-open at throttle dot info
 
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Hash: SHA1

On Mon, 15 Aug 2005 07:05:14 GMT, mroberds@worldnet.att.net wrote:

In sci.electronics.repair DaveC <me@privacy.net> wrote:
I presume the way 3 heat settings are accomplished is through the
use of 2 different wattage heater elements. For example, Low =
1000w element; Medium = 1500w element; High = both elements.

This may be right. Another way it can be done is with two equal
wattage elements. Low = one element across 120 V, medium = one
element across 240 V, high = both elements across 240 V.
This is wrong. 120 V across both elements in parallel will be half
the wattage of 240 V across a single element.

More common in electric ranges
that have off-1-2-3-4 pushbuttons instead of "infinite" heat
controls, but possible in a dryer.
I hated those systems. A quick way to spot a dodgy switch is with an
inline wattmeter. Just cycle through the heat selections and watch
the meter.

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--
-john
wide-open at throttle dot info
 
In sci.electronics.repair ~^Johnny^~ <nospam@gyrogearloose.com> wrote:
On Mon, 15 Aug 2005 07:05:14 GMT, mroberds@worldnet.att.net wrote:
This may be right. Another way it can be done is with two equal
wattage elements. Low = one element across 120 V, medium = one
element across 240 V, high = both elements across 240 V.

This is wrong. 120 V across both elements in parallel will be half
the wattage of 240 V across a single element.
Your statement is true, but I don't think it's what I said. Maybe I
wasn't clear. If you have two 100 W 240 V elements, putting one element
across 120 V yields 25 W. Putting one element across 240 V yields
100 W, and putting both elements in parallel across 240 V yields 200 W.
Now I agree that this isn't a very linear progression (25-100-200), but
I was just using it as an example.

Matt Roberds
 
"DaveC" bravely wrote to "All" (14 Aug 05 23:32:15)
--- on the heady topic of "GE clothes dryer not hot"


If the drier is okay then the other possibility is that the line is
missing 1 phase. Measure each phase voltage to common/ground at the
terminal block. Because the 2 elements are shared across each 120V
phase, the medium setting might get 120V alright but the high setting
also only gets 120V. This could be due to an open fuse/relay or wire,
either at the main electrical box, or terminal block, plug, etc...

A*s*i*m*o*v


Da> From: DaveC <me@privacy.net>
Da> Xref: core-easynews uk.d-i-y:498519 alt.home.repair:644380
Da> sci.electronics.repair:339721


Da> This GE dryer (USA 240v model) has 4 heat settings: Hi, Medium, Low,
Da> Fluff (no heat). It also has a moisture-monitoring setting ("More Dry"
Da> and "Less Dry").

Da> I presume the way 3 heat settings are accomplished is through the use
Da> of 2 different wattage heater elements. For example, Low / 1000w
Da> element; Medium / 1500w element; High / both elements.

Da> There is now one heat setting: medium. All the settings of the heat
Da> switch result in the same medium heat.

Da> The filter screen is clean and the airflow out of the vent hose (I
Da> disconnected it and checked the flow) is unchanged from a year ago
Da> (the last time I remember checking it out). Mains voltage verified. No
Da> overheating external connections.

Da> How is it possible for the dryer to fail in a mode that results in
Da> only medium heat?

Da> Just trying to get a few ideas before opening it up.

Da> GE model DBXR453ET3WW

Da> Thanks,

.... I worked hard to attach the electrodes to it.
 
If it uses fuses, most likely is that one of the two fuses blew.
First check the fuses. My cousin has a drier that does that periodically
even though nothing is wrong with it and the fuses are sized correctly.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

"Asimov" <Asimov@-removethis-bbs.juxtaposition.dynip.com> writes:

"DaveC" bravely wrote to "All" (14 Aug 05 23:32:15)
--- on the heady topic of "GE clothes dryer not hot"


If the drier is okay then the other possibility is that the line is
missing 1 phase. Measure each phase voltage to common/ground at the
terminal block. Because the 2 elements are shared across each 120V
phase, the medium setting might get 120V alright but the high setting
also only gets 120V. This could be due to an open fuse/relay or wire,
either at the main electrical box, or terminal block, plug, etc...

A*s*i*m*o*v


Da> From: DaveC <me@privacy.net
Da> Xref: core-easynews uk.d-i-y:498519 alt.home.repair:644380
Da> sci.electronics.repair:339721


Da> This GE dryer (USA 240v model) has 4 heat settings: Hi, Medium, Low,
Da> Fluff (no heat). It also has a moisture-monitoring setting ("More Dry"
Da> and "Less Dry").

Da> I presume the way 3 heat settings are accomplished is through the use
Da> of 2 different wattage heater elements. For example, Low = 1000w
Da> element; Medium = 1500w element; High = both elements.

Da> There is now one heat setting: medium. All the settings of the heat
Da> switch result in the same medium heat.

Da> The filter screen is clean and the airflow out of the vent hose (I
Da> disconnected it and checked the flow) is unchanged from a year ago
Da> (the last time I remember checking it out). Mains voltage verified. No
Da> overheating external connections.

Da> How is it possible for the dryer to fail in a mode that results in
Da> only medium heat?

Da> Just trying to get a few ideas before opening it up.

Da> GE model DBXR453ET3WW

Da> Thanks,

... I worked hard to attach the electrodes to it.
 

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