Driver to drive?

(9. Hope you actually have a CD/DVD and not some ISO on some harddisk
somewhere otherwise you be screwed ;) :) or burn it first ;) :))
(10. Hope you made the CD/DVD yourself and not somebody else who screwed it
up ;) :)

What the story does not tell is what happens if the new harddisk is
"repaired".

What happens to the boot program on both drives ?

Apperently a new boot program will be installed on the new drive ?!?

My questions are:

1. Does this cause conflicts ?

2. What happens if I put back the old drives ?

3. Also which boot program will be used when old drives are plugged back
into it ? and I make changes to the boot program, like boot into vhd ?
Hmm...

4. At the very least I would expect all drives to be accessible from Windows
itself, but without having tested it I have learned to assume "default is
failure never success".

Bye,
Skybuck.
 
However not all is well,

After doing this Windows 7 says it's not genuine ?!

I might have to re-apply a crack ?!? HUH ?! ;) =D LOL.

Bye,
Skybuck =D
 
Ok, the crack is still working it's nice.

It's kinda amazing cause it probably has certificates as well, so the whole
certificate idea don't work :p*

Windows 7 now nicely boots from it's own disk.

Doing this also solved a little boot issue, I got a boot menu previously
because I tried to add boot options for booting from vhd... but that never
worked... that's now nicely gone...

So now I can turn on my computer and it will directly boot into windows 7...
so no more waiting for error messages.

However the error message at boot also had an adventage... if my system ever
crashed or resetted itself at night I would be able to tell because of the
boot screen halting the boot process !

So point being: "automatic boot" is a bit dangerous ! ;) :)

But so far I am going to like it... it does save me from having to baby sit
the boot process and press enter all the time ! ;) =D

Now I shall have to transfer a lot of usefull files from my old drives, like
music...

I really should copy those to a VHD or so... so I can always have them with
me... but it will probably be gigabytes ! ;)

It's amazing how many files are still on old drives...

For now I will continue using old drives, since I am too lazy to reinstall
everything again... bleh ! ;) :)

Another option might be to clone the disks into vhd's... the first old one
has already a clone...

Maybe I will clone the second one as well...

I think that will probably be the smartest ! ;) :)

Though I also want a duplicate of the music so I can transfer just that ! ;)

Also some weird has happened to drive order:

New Drive C is still C
New Drive F is still F

But the other two got swapped: to D (data) and E (system).

While this is not a problem I was used a bit to D(system)...
I am not sure why it's swapped it's a bit odd... I tried to swap it in bios
but seemed to have no effect.

I suspect the disk order in Asrock bios must be interleaved with the new
disks.... maybe that will straighten it out...

But for now I am going to let it be... usually I want to access data anyway
so this new order might actually be more nice ! ;) =D

So many old tools on that old disk... gjez ! LOL.

Bye,
Skybuck.
 
On Sat, 24 Sep 2011 06:46:13 -0700 (PDT), Mahen K <mahen.jnk@gmail.com>
wrote:

Almost all ESD protection device datasheets recommend to connect the
ESD protection device ground to chassis ground but
my device has a plastic casing.
Click to expand...
Plastic? Then, it is NOT an ESD protectible device.

You have to open the case and insure that there is a ground connection
between the input and output shield shrouds on their connectors.

Task done. An ESD event on an actual data conductor will cause a
failure anyway, and even a metal case device would not stop that, so the
grounded connector shield pair is all you need to certify is in place.

A continuity tester may be all you need for that one you open one and
insure that there is a hard connection in place.

Otherwise, you'd have to open it up, remove it, and place it in your
own, in house refitted metal chassis (case).
 
On Sep 24, 6:46 am, Mahen K <mahen....@gmail.com> wrote:
I have a bus powered USB device in a plastic casing. As it is a bus
powered, power to the device is supplied through the 2mtr
long USB cable. I have the following questions regarding ESD
protection. This device is required to pass only ESD testing and will
not be required to undergo EMI testing.

Almost all ESD protection device datasheets recommend to connect the
ESD protection device ground to chassis ground but
my device has  a plastic casing.

1) Shall I connect the ESD protection device ground return to the
shield of USB cable and connector? If yes,
how should I connect the signal/power ground to this chassis ground?
The following  post recommends not to connect the chassis and signal
grounds and keep the isolated in plastic enclosures.

http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/19561/should-chassis-g....

Please see the draft schematic at the linkhttps://picasaweb.google.com/mahen.jnk/September242011?authkey=Gv1sRg...

2) Should I keep C18 and R12 or remove them to keep the grounds
isolated?

3) C17 is recommended as additional discharge path. Where should C17
ground go, chassis ground or power ground like all other bypass caps?

Thanks in advance
mj
Click to expand...
Use VERY careful PCB layout. Protection inside plastic case for small
unit/devices is doable.

Are you analog or digital?

As you know for analog filtering where you are keeping BIG signals out
of your electronics, filtering to reject ALWAYS alternates impedance,
high to low, low to high, etc. that kind of idea. For robust
protection, use several stages.

Keep in mind your spectrum, you have DC, signals, and ESD [essentially
lightning]. ESD's spectrum easily extends from MHz up through GHz
[centers around 3 to 30MHz] You are trying to let through DC and
signals, but not the ESD. Also watch out when trying to protect by
shorting, that creates some very large high speed currents that can
'induce' themselves into adjacent circuitry, just like a transformer.

Also, think in terms of common mode and differential mode. Common
mode is like being in a Faraday cage where all is at the same
potential. Differential mode is just that and kills electronics.
Common mode chokes help in that they let high speed signals through,
but do NOT allow common mode ESD to change into differential mode on
your PCB.

Obviously follow the trace routing rules: go from to and then onward.
NEVER go from to and then tap into the trace somewhere earlier in the
routing.

Rule of thumb for connections: connections wider than long are decent.
connections longer than wide are inductors. Inductors ALWAYS are open
at some higher frequency.

Study AppNotes from USB interface chip manufacturers. Many even supply
PCB patterns.

Regards,
Robert
 
On Sat, 24 Sep 2011 06:46:13 -0700 (PDT), Mahen K <mahen.jnk@gmail.com> wrote:

I have a bus powered USB device in a plastic casing. As it is a bus
powered, power to the device is supplied through the 2mtr
long USB cable. I have the following questions regarding ESD
protection. This device is required to pass only ESD testing and will
not be required to undergo EMI testing.

Almost all ESD protection device datasheets recommend to connect the
ESD protection device ground to chassis ground but
my device has a plastic casing.
Click to expand...
You might want to have an ESD guard ring around the device. A lot of this is
FM and is highly dependent on physical properties and remember, anything you
do to keep out ESD can also become a path to let it in. In this case, I'd try
to keep everything away from the USB signals. Let the shield take the hit. Of
course, this assumes there isn't another way for ESD to enter the device,
other than the USB cable. If there is, it gets a lot more complicated.

I solved one particularly nasty ESD issue by using a conductive paint on the
inside of the plastic (a Faraday cage). An expensive solution, to be sure,
but the alternative was no product.

1) Shall I connect the ESD protection device ground return to the
shield of USB cable and connector? If yes,
how should I connect the signal/power ground to this chassis ground?
Click to expand...
I wouldn't. There is no guarantee that the shield is at the same potential as
the ground. R12 is there to leak off any stray charge but I wouldn't trust it
alone. Since your data lines are essentially clamped to USB power (and
ground), that's the way I'd keep it. If you were using TVS diodes, instead, I
might have a different opinion (but perhaps not even then). For a similar
reason, Pin-1 of U2 should be tied to signal ground, rather than the shield, I
believe.

The following post recommends not to connect the chassis and signal
grounds and keep the isolated in plastic enclosures.

http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/19561/should-chassis-ground-be-attached-to-digital-ground.
Click to expand...
That's what I would do. I might cheat and add lands for different options,
though. ;-)

Please see the draft schematic at the link
https://picasaweb.google.com/mahen.jnk/September242011?authkey=Gv1sRgCKLD2-q8oOmP8wE#5655919046282047170

2) Should I keep C18 and R12 or remove them to keep the grounds
isolated?
Click to expand...
Yes, particularly R12. It's there to leak any potential difference between
the shield and ground.

3) C17 is recommended as additional discharge path. Where should C17
ground go, chassis ground or power ground like all other bypass caps?
Click to expand...
Power ground, IMO.
 
On Sat, 24 Sep 2011 07:08:52 -0700 StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt
<Zarathustra@thusspoke.org> wrote in Message id:
<2oor775mh7t3a07us2uie8qc8hiinpk736@4ax.com>:

On Sat, 24 Sep 2011 06:46:13 -0700 (PDT), Mahen K <mahen.jnk@gmail.com
wrote:

Almost all ESD protection device datasheets recommend to connect the
ESD protection device ground to chassis ground but
my device has a plastic casing.

Plastic? Then, it is NOT an ESD protectible device.
Click to expand...
AlwaysWrong strikes again.

*Sigh*
 
On Mon, 26 Sep 2011 06:41:15 -0400, JW <none@dev.null> wrote:

On Sat, 24 Sep 2011 07:08:52 -0700 StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt
Zarathustra@thusspoke.org> wrote in Message id:
2oor775mh7t3a07us2uie8qc8hiinpk736@4ax.com>:

On Sat, 24 Sep 2011 06:46:13 -0700 (PDT), Mahen K <mahen.jnk@gmail.com
wrote:

Almost all ESD protection device datasheets recommend to connect the
ESD protection device ground to chassis ground but
my device has a plastic casing.

Plastic? Then, it is NOT an ESD protectible device.

AlwaysWrong strikes again.

*Sigh*
Click to expand...
Please sigh one last time for the sake of mankind. You sully the gene
pool as it stands.

Do us a favor and take any spawn you may have shoved upon the world with
you.
 
"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> schreef in bericht
news:ceq397lfir2i2eu2k29u87uian1abuqeq0@4ax.com...
On Fri, 7 Oct 2011 05:36:05 -0500, "Dave" <db5151@hotmail.com> wrote:

As per my post in SEB, I am trying to use a photo resistor and sunlight to
turn off a transistor that would otherwise be conducting like crazy, but
can't quite make the leap of comprehension as to how to actually do this.
Please see attached schematic parts that show more or less what I am
trying
to do this with. No part number for the photoresistor, sorry. It drops
from multi-megohms in the dark to single-digit Ohms in the light and seems
perfectly capable of carrying the 30 to 50 mA current I am working with at
the voltages indicated. Would really appreciate it if someone could offer
a
hint as to how I should proceed with as few components as possible (small
circuit board.) I hope that my method of posting the schematic portion of
what I a working with is not too obtuse. Couldn't figure out any other
way
to do it...

---
While Petrus' suggestion to use the PV array as the sensor is
excellent, it has the drawback that setting the switching point and
getting a nice "snap" into the LED is difficult, if not impossible,
using a single transistor.

Using a comparator capable of driving a 50 mA load solves both
problems at once.

I've attached an LTspice circuit list as a .asc file, and it should
run if you click on it and you've got LTspice installed on your
machine.

If not, here it is for all of you folks who might be interested but
can't get to abse:

Version 4
SHEET 1 1260 680
WIRE -256 -32 -304 -32
WIRE -128 -32 -192 -32
WIRE -32 -32 -128 -32
WIRE 208 -32 64 -32
WIRE 480 -32 432 -32
WIRE 704 -32 544 -32
WIRE 800 -32 704 -32
WIRE 944 -32 800 -32
WIRE 976 -32 944 -32
WIRE 1088 -32 1056 -32
WIRE 800 0 800 -32
WIRE 1088 16 1088 -32
WIRE 208 32 208 -32
WIRE 944 80 944 -32
WIRE -304 112 -304 -32
WIRE -96 112 -304 112
WIRE 16 112 16 32
WIRE 16 112 -16 112
WIRE 800 112 800 80
WIRE 912 112 800 112
WIRE 1088 128 1088 80
WIRE 1088 128 992 128
WIRE 432 144 432 -32
WIRE 480 144 432 144
WIRE 608 144 560 144
WIRE 880 144 608 144
WIRE 912 144 880 144
WIRE -304 176 -304 112
WIRE -128 176 -128 -32
WIRE 16 176 16 112
WIRE 208 176 208 112
WIRE 432 176 432 144
WIRE 704 176 704 -32
WIRE 928 192 928 176
WIRE 944 192 944 176
WIRE 944 192 928 192
WIRE 608 224 608 144
WIRE 800 224 800 112
WIRE 880 256 880 144
WIRE 976 256 880 256
WIRE 1088 256 1088 128
WIRE 1088 256 1056 256
WIRE -304 288 -304 256
WIRE -128 288 -128 256
WIRE 432 288 432 256
WIRE 704 288 704 256
WIRE -304 400 -304 368
WIRE -128 400 -128 368
WIRE -128 400 -304 400
WIRE 16 400 16 256
WIRE 16 400 -128 400
WIRE 208 400 208 240
WIRE 208 400 16 400
WIRE 432 400 432 368
WIRE 608 400 608 304
WIRE 608 400 432 400
WIRE 704 400 704 368
WIRE 704 400 608 400
WIRE 800 400 800 304
WIRE 800 400 704 400
WIRE 944 400 944 192
WIRE 944 400 800 400
WIRE -304 448 -304 400
WIRE 432 448 432 400
FLAG 432 448 0
FLAG -304 448 0
SYMBOL res 1072 -48 R90
WINDOW 0 0 56 VBottom 2
WINDOW 3 32 56 VTop 2
SYMATTR InstName R1
SYMATTR Value 150
SYMBOL LED 1072 16 R0
SYMATTR InstName D1
SYMATTR Value NSSWS108T
SYMBOL voltage 432 272 R0
WINDOW 3 24 96 Invisible 2
WINDOW 123 0 0 Left 2
WINDOW 39 0 0 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName V1
SYMATTR Value PULSE(0 16 0 12 0 0 24)
SYMBOL schottky 480 -16 R270
WINDOW 0 32 32 VTop 2
WINDOW 3 0 32 VBottom 2
SYMATTR InstName D2
SYMATTR Value 1N5817
SYMATTR Description Diode
SYMATTR Type diode
SYMBOL voltage 704 272 R0
WINDOW 123 0 0 Left 2
WINDOW 39 0 0 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName V2
SYMATTR Value 12
SYMBOL res 688 160 R0
SYMATTR InstName R2
SYMATTR Value .1
SYMBOL res 784 208 R0
SYMATTR InstName R3
SYMATTR Value 50k
SYMBOL Comparators\\LT1011 944 128 R0
WINDOW 0 53 20 Left 2
WINDOW 3 46 47 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName U1
SYMBOL res 816 96 R180
WINDOW 0 36 76 Left 2
WINDOW 3 36 40 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName R4
SYMATTR Value 100k
SYMBOL res 416 160 R0
SYMATTR InstName R5
SYMATTR Value 10
SYMBOL res 576 128 R90
WINDOW 0 0 56 VBottom 2
WINDOW 3 32 56 VTop 2
SYMATTR InstName R6
SYMATTR Value 100k
SYMBOL pnp 64 32 M270
SYMATTR InstName Q1
SYMATTR Value 2N3906
SYMBOL res 224 128 R180
WINDOW 0 36 76 Left 2
WINDOW 3 36 40 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName R7
SYMATTR Value 150
SYMBOL LED 192 176 R0
SYMATTR InstName D3
SYMATTR Value NSSWS108T
SYMBOL voltage -304 272 R0
WINDOW 3 24 96 Invisible 2
WINDOW 123 0 0 Left 2
WINDOW 39 0 0 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName V3
SYMATTR Value PULSE(0 16 0 12 0 0 24)
SYMBOL schottky -256 -16 R270
WINDOW 0 32 32 VTop 2
WINDOW 3 0 32 VBottom 2
SYMATTR InstName D4
SYMATTR Value 1N5817
SYMATTR Description Diode
SYMATTR Type diode
SYMBOL voltage -128 272 R0
WINDOW 123 0 0 Left 2
WINDOW 39 0 0 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName V4
SYMATTR Value 12
SYMBOL res -144 160 R0
SYMATTR InstName R8
SYMATTR Value .1
SYMBOL res -320 160 R0
SYMATTR InstName R9
SYMATTR Value 10
SYMBOL res 0 96 R90
WINDOW 0 0 56 VBottom 2
WINDOW 3 32 56 VTop 2
SYMATTR InstName R10
SYMATTR Value 1k
SYMBOL res 32 272 R180
WINDOW 0 36 76 Left 2
WINDOW 3 36 40 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName R11
SYMATTR Value 100k
SYMBOL res 1072 240 R90
WINDOW 0 0 56 VBottom 2
WINDOW 3 32 56 VTop 2
SYMATTR InstName R12
SYMATTR Value 1meg
SYMBOL res 592 208 R0
WINDOW 0 -52 32 Left 2
WINDOW 3 -55 59 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName R13
SYMATTR Value 150k
TEXT -290 424 Left 2 !.tran 12


Notice that R10 R11 sets the switching "point" for Q1, but also smears
the ON to OFF period of D3 over a very wide range.

R4 R3 sets the switching point for U1, which then switches D1 ON and
OFF very quickly, no matter where the switching point lies.

BTW, I've crossposted this to sed and seb.


--
JF
Click to expand...
I considered the use of a comparator though not the LT1011 but the LM393 or
similar. FAIK more popular, almost everywhere available and maybe cheaper as
well.

The next thing could be a two transistor Schmitt trigger. I ever calculated
every component of it and I can still do so. It's just a matter of setting
the threshold and the hysteresis to the required values.

But the one transistor solution struck me for it's simplicity, low component
count and light effect. So when the (sun)light is fading, the LED starts to
glow faintly to come to full brightness when it grows really dark. Next
morning the other way around if there's enough energy left in the battery
that is.

petrus bitbyter
 
On Sun, 9 Oct 2011 23:15:44 +0200, "petrus bitbyter"
<petrus.bitbyter@hotmail.com> wrote:

"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> schreef in bericht
news:ceq397lfir2i2eu2k29u87uian1abuqeq0@4ax.com...
On Fri, 7 Oct 2011 05:36:05 -0500, "Dave" <db5151@hotmail.com> wrote:

As per my post in SEB, I am trying to use a photo resistor and sunlight to
turn off a transistor that would otherwise be conducting like crazy, but
can't quite make the leap of comprehension as to how to actually do this.
Please see attached schematic parts that show more or less what I am
trying
to do this with. No part number for the photoresistor, sorry. It drops
from multi-megohms in the dark to single-digit Ohms in the light and seems
perfectly capable of carrying the 30 to 50 mA current I am working with at
the voltages indicated. Would really appreciate it if someone could offer
a
hint as to how I should proceed with as few components as possible (small
circuit board.) I hope that my method of posting the schematic portion of
what I a working with is not too obtuse. Couldn't figure out any other
way
to do it...

---
While Petrus' suggestion to use the PV array as the sensor is
excellent, it has the drawback that setting the switching point and
getting a nice "snap" into the LED is difficult, if not impossible,
using a single transistor.

Using a comparator capable of driving a 50 mA load solves both
problems at once.
Click to expand...
..
..
..

I considered the use of a comparator though not the LT1011 but the LM393 or
similar. FAIK more popular, almost everywhere available and maybe cheaper as
well.
Click to expand...
---
Indeed, but incapable of handling, by itself, the 50mA load current
the OP was asking for.

The LT1011 is an improved LM311 clone and I used it because it was in
Linear's library, but an LM311 would work just as well for about 1/4
the price, qty 1.
---

The next thing could be a two transistor Schmitt trigger. I ever calculated
every component of it and I can still do so. It's just a matter of setting
the threshold and the hysteresis to the required values.
Click to expand...
---
Post a schematic, please?
---

But the one transistor solution struck me for it's simplicity, low component
count and light effect. So when the (sun)light is fading, the LED starts to
glow faintly to come to full brightness when it grows really dark. Next
morning the other way around if there's enough energy left in the battery
that is.
Click to expand...
---
Yup!

--
JF
 
petrus bitbyter wrote:

"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> schreef in bericht
news:ceq397lfir2i2eu2k29u87uian1abuqeq0@4ax.com...

On Fri, 7 Oct 2011 05:36:05 -0500, "Dave" <db5151@hotmail.com> wrote:


As per my post in SEB, I am trying to use a photo resistor and sunlight to
turn off a transistor that would otherwise be conducting like crazy, but
can't quite make the leap of comprehension as to how to actually do this.
Please see attached schematic parts that show more or less what I am
trying
to do this with. No part number for the photoresistor, sorry. It drops

from multi-megohms in the dark to single-digit Ohms in the light and seems

perfectly capable of carrying the 30 to 50 mA current I am working with at
the voltages indicated. Would really appreciate it if someone could offer
a
hint as to how I should proceed with as few components as possible (small
circuit board.) I hope that my method of posting the schematic portion of
what I a working with is not too obtuse. Couldn't figure out any other
way
to do it...

---
While Petrus' suggestion to use the PV array as the sensor is
excellent, it has the drawback that setting the switching point and
getting a nice "snap" into the LED is difficult, if not impossible,
using a single transistor.

Using a comparator capable of driving a 50 mA load solves both
problems at once.

I've attached an LTspice circuit list as a .asc file, and it should
run if you click on it and you've got LTspice installed on your
machine.

If not, here it is for all of you folks who might be interested but
can't get to abse:

Version 4
SHEET 1 1260 680
WIRE -256 -32 -304 -32
WIRE -128 -32 -192 -32
WIRE -32 -32 -128 -32
WIRE 208 -32 64 -32
WIRE 480 -32 432 -32
WIRE 704 -32 544 -32
WIRE 800 -32 704 -32
WIRE 944 -32 800 -32
WIRE 976 -32 944 -32
WIRE 1088 -32 1056 -32
WIRE 800 0 800 -32
WIRE 1088 16 1088 -32
WIRE 208 32 208 -32
WIRE 944 80 944 -32
WIRE -304 112 -304 -32
WIRE -96 112 -304 112
WIRE 16 112 16 32
WIRE 16 112 -16 112
WIRE 800 112 800 80
WIRE 912 112 800 112
WIRE 1088 128 1088 80
WIRE 1088 128 992 128
WIRE 432 144 432 -32
WIRE 480 144 432 144
WIRE 608 144 560 144
WIRE 880 144 608 144
WIRE 912 144 880 144
WIRE -304 176 -304 112
WIRE -128 176 -128 -32
WIRE 16 176 16 112
WIRE 208 176 208 112
WIRE 432 176 432 144
WIRE 704 176 704 -32
WIRE 928 192 928 176
WIRE 944 192 944 176
WIRE 944 192 928 192
WIRE 608 224 608 144
WIRE 800 224 800 112
WIRE 880 256 880 144
WIRE 976 256 880 256
WIRE 1088 256 1088 128
WIRE 1088 256 1056 256
WIRE -304 288 -304 256
WIRE -128 288 -128 256
WIRE 432 288 432 256
WIRE 704 288 704 256
WIRE -304 400 -304 368
WIRE -128 400 -128 368
WIRE -128 400 -304 400
WIRE 16 400 16 256
WIRE 16 400 -128 400
WIRE 208 400 208 240
WIRE 208 400 16 400
WIRE 432 400 432 368
WIRE 608 400 608 304
WIRE 608 400 432 400
WIRE 704 400 704 368
WIRE 704 400 608 400
WIRE 800 400 800 304
WIRE 800 400 704 400
WIRE 944 400 944 192
WIRE 944 400 800 400
WIRE -304 448 -304 400
WIRE 432 448 432 400
FLAG 432 448 0
FLAG -304 448 0
SYMBOL res 1072 -48 R90
WINDOW 0 0 56 VBottom 2
WINDOW 3 32 56 VTop 2
SYMATTR InstName R1
SYMATTR Value 150
SYMBOL LED 1072 16 R0
SYMATTR InstName D1
SYMATTR Value NSSWS108T
SYMBOL voltage 432 272 R0
WINDOW 3 24 96 Invisible 2
WINDOW 123 0 0 Left 2
WINDOW 39 0 0 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName V1
SYMATTR Value PULSE(0 16 0 12 0 0 24)
SYMBOL schottky 480 -16 R270
WINDOW 0 32 32 VTop 2
WINDOW 3 0 32 VBottom 2
SYMATTR InstName D2
SYMATTR Value 1N5817
SYMATTR Description Diode
SYMATTR Type diode
SYMBOL voltage 704 272 R0
WINDOW 123 0 0 Left 2
WINDOW 39 0 0 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName V2
SYMATTR Value 12
SYMBOL res 688 160 R0
SYMATTR InstName R2
SYMATTR Value .1
SYMBOL res 784 208 R0
SYMATTR InstName R3
SYMATTR Value 50k
SYMBOL Comparators\\LT1011 944 128 R0
WINDOW 0 53 20 Left 2
WINDOW 3 46 47 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName U1
SYMBOL res 816 96 R180
WINDOW 0 36 76 Left 2
WINDOW 3 36 40 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName R4
SYMATTR Value 100k
SYMBOL res 416 160 R0
SYMATTR InstName R5
SYMATTR Value 10
SYMBOL res 576 128 R90
WINDOW 0 0 56 VBottom 2
WINDOW 3 32 56 VTop 2
SYMATTR InstName R6
SYMATTR Value 100k
SYMBOL pnp 64 32 M270
SYMATTR InstName Q1
SYMATTR Value 2N3906
SYMBOL res 224 128 R180
WINDOW 0 36 76 Left 2
WINDOW 3 36 40 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName R7
SYMATTR Value 150
SYMBOL LED 192 176 R0
SYMATTR InstName D3
SYMATTR Value NSSWS108T
SYMBOL voltage -304 272 R0
WINDOW 3 24 96 Invisible 2
WINDOW 123 0 0 Left 2
WINDOW 39 0 0 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName V3
SYMATTR Value PULSE(0 16 0 12 0 0 24)
SYMBOL schottky -256 -16 R270
WINDOW 0 32 32 VTop 2
WINDOW 3 0 32 VBottom 2
SYMATTR InstName D4
SYMATTR Value 1N5817
SYMATTR Description Diode
SYMATTR Type diode
SYMBOL voltage -128 272 R0
WINDOW 123 0 0 Left 2
WINDOW 39 0 0 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName V4
SYMATTR Value 12
SYMBOL res -144 160 R0
SYMATTR InstName R8
SYMATTR Value .1
SYMBOL res -320 160 R0
SYMATTR InstName R9
SYMATTR Value 10
SYMBOL res 0 96 R90
WINDOW 0 0 56 VBottom 2
WINDOW 3 32 56 VTop 2
SYMATTR InstName R10
SYMATTR Value 1k
SYMBOL res 32 272 R180
WINDOW 0 36 76 Left 2
WINDOW 3 36 40 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName R11
SYMATTR Value 100k
SYMBOL res 1072 240 R90
WINDOW 0 0 56 VBottom 2
WINDOW 3 32 56 VTop 2
SYMATTR InstName R12
SYMATTR Value 1meg
SYMBOL res 592 208 R0
WINDOW 0 -52 32 Left 2
WINDOW 3 -55 59 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName R13
SYMATTR Value 150k
TEXT -290 424 Left 2 !.tran 12


Notice that R10 R11 sets the switching "point" for Q1, but also smears
the ON to OFF period of D3 over a very wide range.

R4 R3 sets the switching point for U1, which then switches D1 ON and
OFF very quickly, no matter where the switching point lies.

BTW, I've crossposted this to sed and seb.


--
JF




I considered the use of a comparator though not the LT1011 but the LM393 or
similar. FAIK more popular, almost everywhere available and maybe cheaper as
well.

The next thing could be a two transistor Schmitt trigger. I ever calculated
every component of it and I can still do so. It's just a matter of setting
the threshold and the hysteresis to the required values.

But the one transistor solution struck me for it's simplicity, low component
count and light effect. So when the (sun)light is fading, the LED starts to
glow faintly to come to full brightness when it grows really dark. Next
morning the other way around if there's enough energy left in the battery
that is.

petrus bitbyter
Click to expand...



47
___
+---------+-----+-|___|+-----------+
| | |
+ + |
3V bat--- | |
- - |
| ^ Vf 50 LED V ->
| + Sch -
=== | |
GND | +
| |
+------------------+ +
| | | 10K
| | >| ___
+ | PNP |--|___|-+
| | /| |
- | + |
--- 3 Volt PV | | |
| | | |
| + |
GND | GND |
| |
| |
+-----------------+



Something like that?

P.S.
That circuit should also charge. Use 50mv Vf Schottky diode.

The only problem is, you need at least 3 volts from the PV
 
On Sun, 09 Oct 2011 19:32:36 -0400, Jamie
<jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote:


47
___
+---------+-----+-|___|+-----------+
| | |
+ + |
3V bat--- | |
- - |
| ^ Vf 50 LED V -
| + Sch -
=== | |
GND | +
| |
+------------------+ +
| | | 10K
| | >| ___
+ | PNP |--|___|-+
| | /| |
- | + |
--- 3 Volt PV | | |
| | | |
| + |
GND | GND |
| |
| |
+-----------------+



Something like that?

P.S.
That circuit should also charge. Use 50mv Vf Schottky diode.
Click to expand...
---
50mV???

Got a part number?
---

The only problem is, you need at least 3 volts from the PV
Click to expand...
---
3V from the PV won't cut it, since the Schottky's in the way and
you'll need more than 3v to charge the battery.

--
JF
 
John Fields wrote:

On Sun, 09 Oct 2011 19:32:36 -0400, Jamie
jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote:



47
___
+---------+-----+-|___|+-----------+
| | |
+ + |
3V bat--- | |
- - |
| ^ Vf 50 LED V -
| + Sch -
=== | |
GND | +
| |
+------------------+ +
| | | 10K
| | >| ___
+ | PNP |--|___|-+
| | /| |
- | + |
--- 3 Volt PV | | |
| | | |
| + |
GND | GND |
| |
| |
+-----------------+



Something like that?

P.S.
That circuit should also charge. Use 50mv Vf Schottky diode.


---
50mV???

Got a part number?
---


The only problem is, you need at least 3 volts from the PV


---
3V from the PV won't cut it, since the Schottky's in the way and
you'll need more than 3v to charge the battery.

it's 50mv with low load...that of course goes up as the current does.
Click to expand...
for low I, a 1N5817 will reach that point. It depends on how you use it.

I actually meant to say the Rs = 0.050; Much better than the usual
0.5xxxx found in others.

As for the PV voltage, how else was this suppose to work? I didn't see
a voltage multiplier in the request, and they do make multi cell PV's, I
have a whole drive way full of LED lights with multi-cell PVs in them.

Jamie
 
"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> schreef in bericht
news:ia749756d84721imhsviu7rg2hslifikgi@4ax.com...
On Sun, 9 Oct 2011 23:15:44 +0200, "petrus bitbyter"
petrus.bitbyter@hotmail.com> wrote:


"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> schreef in bericht
news:ceq397lfir2i2eu2k29u87uian1abuqeq0@4ax.com...
On Fri, 7 Oct 2011 05:36:05 -0500, "Dave" <db5151@hotmail.com> wrote:

As per my post in SEB, I am trying to use a photo resistor and sunlight
to
turn off a transistor that would otherwise be conducting like crazy, but
can't quite make the leap of comprehension as to how to actually do
this.
Please see attached schematic parts that show more or less what I am
trying
to do this with. No part number for the photoresistor, sorry. It drops
from multi-megohms in the dark to single-digit Ohms in the light and
seems
perfectly capable of carrying the 30 to 50 mA current I am working with
at
the voltages indicated. Would really appreciate it if someone could
offer
a
hint as to how I should proceed with as few components as possible
(small
circuit board.) I hope that my method of posting the schematic portion
of
what I a working with is not too obtuse. Couldn't figure out any other
way
to do it...

---
While Petrus' suggestion to use the PV array as the sensor is
excellent, it has the drawback that setting the switching point and
getting a nice "snap" into the LED is difficult, if not impossible,
using a single transistor.

Using a comparator capable of driving a 50 mA load solves both
problems at once.

.
.
.

I considered the use of a comparator though not the LT1011 but the LM393
or
similar. FAIK more popular, almost everywhere available and maybe cheaper
as
well.

---
Indeed, but incapable of handling, by itself, the 50mA load current
the OP was asking for.

The LT1011 is an improved LM311 clone and I used it because it was in
Linear's library, but an LM311 would work just as well for about 1/4
the price, qty 1.
---

The next thing could be a two transistor Schmitt trigger. I ever
calculated
every component of it and I can still do so. It's just a matter of setting
the threshold and the hysteresis to the required values.

---
Post a schematic, please?
---

But the one transistor solution struck me for it's simplicity, low
component
count and light effect. So when the (sun)light is fading, the LED starts
to
glow faintly to come to full brightness when it grows really dark. Next
morning the other way around if there's enough energy left in the battery
that is.

---
Yup!

--
JF
Click to expand...
The LED mentioned by the OP can handle a maximum current of 30mA. The series
resistor of 160R reduces this to about 10mA, depending on the forward
voltage of the LED. So a LM311 would be a good option using a comparator.

A two transistor Schmitt-trigger is a classic. See below. I'm sure it'll
work though I made no extensive calculations this time.

+ solar-----+---->|------+----------------------+-------+
cell | 1N5817 | | |
| | V LED |
| | - |
| | | |
| | | |
.-. .-. .-. |
| | | | | | |
| |22k | |1k5 | |47 | +4V8
'-' '-' '-' ---
| | ___ | -
| +-----|___|----+ | |
| | 3k3 | | |
| | | |/ ---
| ___ |/ +-----| BC547 -
+--|___|---| BC547 | |> |
| 680 |> | | |
| | | | ---
| +-----+--------)-------+ -
| | | |
| | | |
.-. .-. .-. ---
| | | | | | -
| |3k9 | |100 | |3k9 |
'-' '-' '-' |
| | | |
| | | |
- solar---+------------------+--------+---------------+-- GND
cell
created by Andy´s ASCII-Circuit v1.24.140803 Beta www.tech-chat.de

petrus bitbyter
 
On Oct 9, 2:38 pm, John Fields <jfie...@austininstruments.com> wrote:

---
While Petrus' suggestion to use the PV array as the sensor is
excellent, it has the drawback that setting the switching point and
getting a nice "snap" into the LED is difficult, if not impossible,
using a single transistor.
Click to expand...

Here's how those cheap garden lights do it:
http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/SolarLight/SolarLight.htm

If the application is for outdoors then the PV is all over the map, so
the better ones use an LDR.
 
On Sun, 09 Oct 2011 20:13:31 -0400, Jamie
<jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote:

John Fields wrote:

On Sun, 09 Oct 2011 19:32:36 -0400, Jamie
jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote:



47
___
+---------+-----+-|___|+-----------+
| | |
+ + |
3V bat--- | |
- - |
| ^ Vf 50 LED V -
| + Sch -
=== | |
GND | +
| |
+------------------+ +
| | | 10K
| | >| ___
+ | PNP |--|___|-+
| | /| |
- | + |
--- 3 Volt PV | | |
| | | |
| + |
GND | GND |
| |
| |
+-----------------+



Something like that?

P.S.
That circuit should also charge. Use 50mv Vf Schottky diode.


---
50mV???

Got a part number?
---


The only problem is, you need at least 3 volts from the PV


---
3V from the PV won't cut it, since the Schottky's in the way and
you'll need more than 3v to charge the battery.

it's 50mv with low load...that of course goes up as the current does.
for low I, a 1N5817 will reach that point. It depends on how you use it.
Click to expand...
---
I just measured the current through a 1N5817 with a 50mV drop across
it, and it turned out to be 23 microamps, so if you're planning to
charge the battery with that I'm afraid it's going to take more than
just a day, even at full sun in the middle of the summer.
---

I actually meant to say the Rs = 0.050; Much better than the usual
0.5xxxx found in others.
Click to expand...
---
Rs???

What are you talking about?
---

As for the PV voltage, how else was this suppose to work? I didn't see
a voltage multiplier in the request, and they do make multi cell PV's, I
have a whole drive way full of LED lights with multi-cell PVs in them.
Click to expand...
---
Your schematic clearly states "3 Volt PV", so if you meant more
voltage than that you should have shown it.

Personally, I think you're trying to bullshit your way out of the
corner you've stupidly painted yourself into.

--
JF
 
On Mon, 10 Oct 2011 11:04:04 -0500, John Fields
<jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote:

On Sun, 09 Oct 2011 20:13:31 -0400, Jamie
jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote:

John Fields wrote:

On Sun, 09 Oct 2011 19:32:36 -0400, Jamie
jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote:



47
___
+---------+-----+-|___|+-----------+
| | |
+ + |
3V bat--- | |
- - |
| ^ Vf 50 LED V -
| + Sch -
=== | |
GND | +
| |
+------------------+ +
| | | 10K
| | >| ___
+ | PNP |--|___|-+
| | /| |
- | + |
--- 3 Volt PV | | |
| | | |
| + |
GND | GND |
| |
| |
+-----------------+



Something like that?

P.S.
That circuit should also charge. Use 50mv Vf Schottky diode.


---
50mV???

Got a part number?
---


The only problem is, you need at least 3 volts from the PV


---
3V from the PV won't cut it, since the Schottky's in the way and
you'll need more than 3v to charge the battery.

it's 50mv with low load...that of course goes up as the current does.
for low I, a 1N5817 will reach that point. It depends on how you use it.

---
I just measured the current through a 1N5817 with a 50mV drop across
it, and it turned out to be 23 microamps, so if you're planning to
charge the battery with that I'm afraid it's going to take more than
just a day, even at full sun in the middle of the summer.
---

I actually meant to say the Rs = 0.050; Much better than the usual
0.5xxxx found in others.

---
Rs???

What are you talking about?
Click to expand...
Diode series resistance, the ohmic part of a diode's behavior. It
usually only matters at higher currents. It has a positive TC, the
opposite of the junction's TC.


John
 
Shawn C. Masters (smast...@bzy.gmu.edu) wrote:

Curt A Meyers (cmey...@hanneforth.ecn.purdue.edu) wrote:
Check out under new products in the Analog Devices web page.
They claim to have a chipset that can transmitt up to
8 Mbps over standard phone lines and 640 Kbps in a
duplex operation...

Not a standard phone line per say. They are talking about ADSL
which should work on most pairs that don't go more then a couple
miles from
the local CO. It also assumes that a high error rate for most
applications
is acceptable.
Of course, I'd love to have my bell put this equipment in the
local CO and offer connections to some sort of ISP, but there are still
hurdles involving what type of connection do you have past the CO
and how much should they charge. Great technology, but the bells
aren't
quite ready for it.
73,
Shawn
KE4GHS
Click to expand...
Not unheard of. There are aDSL users getting 20Mb/s if they're close to
the CO.
 
"SMS" <scharf.steven@geemail.com> wrote in message
news:4e970717$0$1710$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net...
Shawn C. Masters (smast...@bzy.gmu.edu) wrote:

Curt A Meyers (cmey...@hanneforth.ecn.purdue.edu) wrote:
Check out under new products in the Analog Devices web page.
They claim to have a chipset that can transmitt up to
8 Mbps over standard phone lines and 640 Kbps in a
duplex operation...

Not a standard phone line per say. They are talking about ADSL
which should work on most pairs that don't go more then a couple
miles from
the local CO. It also assumes that a high error rate for most
applications
is acceptable.
Of course, I'd love to have my bell put this equipment in the
local CO and offer connections to some sort of ISP, but there are still
hurdles involving what type of connection do you have past the CO
and how much should they charge. Great technology, but the bells
aren't
quite ready for it.
73,
Shawn
KE4GHS

Not unheard of. There are aDSL users getting 20Mb/s if they're close to
the CO.
Click to expand...
Verison offers 7Mbs, I think if you can get the 3Mbs then they can do the
7Mbs over the same distance as well.

Cheers
 
Martin Riddle wrote:
"SMS" <scharf.steven@geemail.com> wrote in message
news:4e970717$0$1710$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net...
Shawn C. Masters (smast...@bzy.gmu.edu) wrote:

Curt A Meyers (cmey...@hanneforth.ecn.purdue.edu) wrote:
Check out under new products in the Analog Devices web page.
They claim to have a chipset that can transmitt up to
8 Mbps over standard phone lines and 640 Kbps in a
duplex operation...

Not a standard phone line per say. They are talking about ADSL
which should work on most pairs that don't go more then a couple
miles from
the local CO. It also assumes that a high error rate for most
applications
is acceptable.
Of course, I'd love to have my bell put this equipment in the
local CO and offer connections to some sort of ISP, but there are still
hurdles involving what type of connection do you have past the CO
and how much should they charge. Great technology, but the bells
aren't
quite ready for it.
73,
Shawn
KE4GHS

Not unheard of. There are aDSL users getting 20Mb/s if they're close to
the CO.

Verison offers 7Mbs, I think if you can get the 3Mbs then they can do the
7Mbs over the same distance as well.
Click to expand...

Brighthouse offered me 40 Mbps, on a cable modem.


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Welcome to EDABoard.com

Sponsor

Back
Top