The problem with notions of what is, in essence, a 'child tax' is it
some electrolytics (notably the older, obsolete wet ones) had that property.
Remember under the hood it is extremely hot and electrically quite
Which is what makes it immoral and moronic. It isn't the child's fault
I had a similar problem on one of my cars a few years back. It would also"Paul Hovnanian P.E." <paul@hovnanian.com> wrote in message
news:Nfqdnb5ALLQxGQDSnZ2dnUVZ_sudnZ2d@posted.isomediainc...
This is a further symptom of some weird problems my truck's electronic
ignition module is having. It seems that when it begins to misbehave
badly,
if I park it for a week or so, the problems go away for a few days. Then
they start to reappear. Temperature doesn't seem to have anything to do
with it, as the failures are just as likely to occur on a cold start as
after having driven on a warm day.
I don't think its due to lead free solder. The truck is 33 years old. I
re-heated all of the solder joints I could get to (most of the module is
potted). I added an external cap (on the theory that an internal cap
inside
the possting may have failed open). No difference. Cleaned all the
connections and added a dedicated ground lead from the battery negative
to
the module (on the theory that body rust somethere might have taken out
the
original ground path). No change.
One of the sensors that feed the ignition module may have a flakey
ground. There shouldn't be a lot of them on something that old. My
'75 280Z had an intermittant problem like yours which drove me crazy.
2 dealers were stumped. I finally nailed it by driving around with a
battery powered o'scope, DMM, and a bunch of wires going to the
engine to tap various test points. Turned out it was one of the water
temp sensors which caused the fuel injection pulses to jump to max
width, flooding the engine.
Art
The symptoms are that every once in a while (about once a day) the
ignition
will just cut out. Every time a coast to the side of the road and start
poking around with a voltmeter, all is well (12 volts is present where
its
supposed to be). I've replaced everything except for the module. Those go
for about $350. If one can be found. The really funny thing is that: in
order to test the coil output, I hooked up an old timing light (a direct
connect type that triggers off the coil secondary). The presence of that
strobe in the ignition circuit fixes whatever is wrong within a few
seconds. And the fix lasts for a day or two. I don't have to leave the
strobe connected. Once it starts, its OK without it. Otherwise, it just
never starts unless I leave it parked for a week or two, which seems to
be
when the 'self healing' kicks in.
Since the problem has been narrowed down to that module, its pretty
certain
I'll just need a new one (something other than the $350 OEM part). I
might
try building my own (there's not much to one of these). But the failure
mode has me puzzled and I'd like to understand what might be wrong here.
Even if it has no bearing on the eventual fix.
Since I have enough vehicles at my disposal, I don't actually have to fix
this any time soon. So I'm trying to solve the puzzle rather then just
throw parts out.
--
Paul Hovnanian mailtoaul@Hovnanian.com
------------------------------------------------------------------
Have a pleasant Terran revolution.
This isn't an ECM. Its just an ignition module to replace points ignition.
aul@Hovnanian.comI had those symptoms on my Vision TSi, a decade or so ago. It started out as"Artemus" <bogus@invalid.org> wrote in message
news:jnk70k$3ts$1@dont-email.me...
"Paul Hovnanian P.E." <paul@hovnanian.com> wrote in message
news:Nfqdnb5ALLQxGQDSnZ2dnUVZ_sudnZ2d@posted.isomediainc...
This is a further symptom of some weird problems my truck's electronic
ignition module is having. It seems that when it begins to misbehave
badly,
if I park it for a week or so, the problems go away for a few days. Then
they start to reappear. Temperature doesn't seem to have anything to do
with it, as the failures are just as likely to occur on a cold start as
after having driven on a warm day.
I don't think its due to lead free solder. The truck is 33 years old. I
re-heated all of the solder joints I could get to (most of the module is
potted). I added an external cap (on the theory that an internal cap
inside
the possting may have failed open). No difference. Cleaned all the
connections and added a dedicated ground lead from the battery negative
to
the module (on the theory that body rust somethere might have taken out
the
original ground path). No change.
One of the sensors that feed the ignition module may have a flakey
ground. There shouldn't be a lot of them on something that old. My
'75 280Z had an intermittant problem like yours which drove me crazy.
2 dealers were stumped. I finally nailed it by driving around with a
battery powered o'scope, DMM, and a bunch of wires going to the
engine to tap various test points. Turned out it was one of the water
temp sensors which caused the fuel injection pulses to jump to max
width, flooding the engine.
Art
The symptoms are that every once in a while (about once a day) the
ignition
will just cut out. Every time a coast to the side of the road and start
poking around with a voltmeter, all is well (12 volts is present where
its
supposed to be). I've replaced everything except for the module. Those go
for about $350. If one can be found. The really funny thing is that: in
order to test the coil output, I hooked up an old timing light (a direct
connect type that triggers off the coil secondary). The presence of that
strobe in the ignition circuit fixes whatever is wrong within a few
seconds. And the fix lasts for a day or two. I don't have to leave the
strobe connected. Once it starts, its OK without it. Otherwise, it just
never starts unless I leave it parked for a week or two, which seems to
be
when the 'self healing' kicks in.
Since the problem has been narrowed down to that module, its pretty
certain
I'll just need a new one (something other than the $350 OEM part). I
might
try building my own (there's not much to one of these). But the failure
mode has me puzzled and I'd like to understand what might be wrong here.
Even if it has no bearing on the eventual fix.
Since I have enough vehicles at my disposal, I don't actually have to fix
this any time soon. So I'm trying to solve the puzzle rather then just
throw parts out.
--
Paul Hovnanian mailto
------------------------------------------------------------------
Have a pleasant Terran revolution.
I had a similar problem on one of my cars a few years back. It would also
just randomly cut out, and refuse to restart, but for minutes rather than
days. I too thought that it was an ignition problem, and suspected the
electronic ignition module. However, I connected a whole bunch of LEDs to
various points in the system, and discovered that when it failed, it was the
feed to the electric fuel pump that was going off, and the problem
ultimately proved to be bad joints in the fuel pump relay, which had a PCB
inside, with its own driver transistor and a few other bits and bobs on it.
I had that several times on my '78 Ford Granada. I got suspicious of the carb
c6dnV9hzKxG1gLSnZ2dnUVZ_sudnZ2d@posted.isomediainc...Since a timing light always remedies the problem that points to theArtemus wrote:
One of the sensors that feed the ignition module may have a flakey
ground. There shouldn't be a lot of them on something that old. My
'75 280Z had an intermittant problem like yours which drove me crazy.
2 dealers were stumped. I finally nailed it by driving around with a
battery powered o'scope, DMM, and a bunch of wires going to the
engine to tap various test points. Turned out it was one of the water
temp sensors which caused the fuel injection pulses to jump to max
width, flooding the engine.
Art
This isn't an ECM. Its just an ignition module to replace points ignition.
It has a magnetic pickup which is OK and puts out pulses even when the
system is dead. It has +12 in from the ignition switch (connections checked
and cleaned). It has a ground (cleaned and an additional ground ran down to
the battery/frame ground bolt) and connection to the coil (-). The coil
also has +12V through an ignition resistor* (replaced in the process of
diagnosis, no improvement). So its a very simple system.
I've caught in inoperative a few times parked in the driveway, so I've been
able to check the basic voltage levels and the pickup output**. When I'm
not trying to get someplace, that is. More often than not, its a matter of
just saying "Screw it. I've gotta be someplace" and just switch vehicles.
Fortunately, this is one of my rather large fleet of 4x4s.
*Sort of an ignition resistor. Toyota had this genius idea to run a
resistance wire (about 5 feet long) through the wiring bundle. Try
inspecting and/or replacing that. So I put in a standard ceramic block type
resistor in the coil (+) side, bypassing that wire.
**The interesting diagnostic was checking the coil output with the timing
light. Putting the strobe on the coil fixes the problem. Every time, within
seconds. In fact, the fix is so reliable, I just carry the damned timing
light around with me.
--
Paul Hovnanian mailto
------------------------------------------------------------------
Help stamp out philately.
Yes. New coil, wires, cap, rotor, plugs. Although this is an all on/off
--
aul@Hovnanian.comThe only electrical effect I can think of is that the timing light added
Giving someone money, just less, is punishment?
hey, great idea! Got a problem? Kill someone who pisses you off. Let's
Not so difficult. We all need roughly the same things - food, water,
We had one car that kept not starting. The solenoid would click, but"Artemus" <bogus@invalid.org> wrote in message
news:jnk70k$3ts$1@dont-email.me...
"Paul Hovnanian P.E." <paul@hovnanian.com> wrote in message
news:Nfqdnb5ALLQxGQDSnZ2dnUVZ_sudnZ2d@posted.isomediainc...
This is a further symptom of some weird problems my truck's electronic
ignition module is having. It seems that when it begins to misbehave
badly,
if I park it for a week or so, the problems go away for a few days. Then
they start to reappear. Temperature doesn't seem to have anything to do
with it, as the failures are just as likely to occur on a cold start as
after having driven on a warm day.
I don't think its due to lead free solder. The truck is 33 years old. I
re-heated all of the solder joints I could get to (most of the module is
potted). I added an external cap (on the theory that an internal cap
inside
the possting may have failed open). No difference. Cleaned all the
connections and added a dedicated ground lead from the battery negative
to
the module (on the theory that body rust somethere might have taken out
the
original ground path). No change.
One of the sensors that feed the ignition module may have a flakey
ground. There shouldn't be a lot of them on something that old. My
'75 280Z had an intermittant problem like yours which drove me crazy.
2 dealers were stumped. I finally nailed it by driving around with a
battery powered o'scope, DMM, and a bunch of wires going to the
engine to tap various test points. Turned out it was one of the water
temp sensors which caused the fuel injection pulses to jump to max
width, flooding the engine.
Art
The symptoms are that every once in a while (about once a day) the
ignition
will just cut out. Every time a coast to the side of the road and start
poking around with a voltmeter, all is well (12 volts is present where
its
supposed to be). I've replaced everything except for the module. Those go
for about $350. If one can be found. The really funny thing is that: in
order to test the coil output, I hooked up an old timing light (a direct
connect type that triggers off the coil secondary). The presence of that
strobe in the ignition circuit fixes whatever is wrong within a few
seconds. And the fix lasts for a day or two. I don't have to leave the
strobe connected. Once it starts, its OK without it. Otherwise, it just
never starts unless I leave it parked for a week or two, which seems to
be
when the 'self healing' kicks in.
Since the problem has been narrowed down to that module, its pretty
certain
I'll just need a new one (something other than the $350 OEM part). I
might
try building my own (there's not much to one of these). But the failure
mode has me puzzled and I'd like to understand what might be wrong here.
Even if it has no bearing on the eventual fix.
Since I have enough vehicles at my disposal, I don't actually have to fix
this any time soon. So I'm trying to solve the puzzle rather then just
throw parts out.
--
Paul Hovnanian mailto
------------------------------------------------------------------
Have a pleasant Terran revolution.
I had a similar problem on one of my cars a few years back. It would also
just randomly cut out, and refuse to restart, but for minutes rather than
days. I too thought that it was an ignition problem, and suspected the
electronic ignition module. However, I connected a whole bunch of LEDs to
various points in the system, and discovered that when it failed, it was the
feed to the electric fuel pump that was going off, and the problem
ultimately proved to be bad joints in the fuel pump relay, which had a PCB
inside, with its own driver transistor and a few other bits and bobs on it.
Just a few weeks ago, my current car started doing something similar. It
would just completely fail to start, even though the engine was warm and had
been running just fine only minutes before. But if you left it for a few
hours and then came back to it, it would start first flick of the key.
Again, I suspected either an ignition or ECU problem as when it was failing
to start, it put the engine management error light on, but it turned out to
be the fuel pump motor failing to start.
Arfa
On welfare? Lose any children. It's child abuse to allow children to grow up
It's not fair to punish the kids for the misdeeds of their parents.
Of course not. My thoughts were toward _prevention_.
Perhaps.
480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |What ratio would you accept?