I\'m in a region which gets a huge amount of very bright daylight and
that bleaches off even black ballpoint within a couple of years.
On a sunny day (Mon, 12 Jun 2023 14:23:12 -0000 (UTC)) it happened \"Don\"
g@crcomp.net> wrote in <20240612a@crcomp.net>:
Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid> wrote:
Fred Bloggs wrote>:
Jan Panteltje wrote:
erichp... wrote:
snip
You could make a simple curve tracer. Since diacs can have trigger
voltages of 30-40V it needs to be a bit higher voltage. You will need an
oscilloscope capable of XY tracing (like an old cathode ray based scope)
a resistor of say 1 or 2 kohm and a mains transformer with a secondary
of approx 30V rms to get a peak voltage comfortably above 40V. Wire the
unknown diode in series with the resistor across the transformer.
Connect the scope common to the diode-resistor junction and the X input
to the diode-transformer junction and Y input to the
resistor-transformer junction. The curves will help you identify regular
diodes from diacs and give a good estimate of zener volatge upto 43V or
so.
Using a normal multimeter on the ohms range,
1.5 V and 9 V meter batteries assumed,
would show at least some conduction for diodes in one direction,
but not for DIACs in any direction (a few uA).
Would filter out non-diodes fast.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIAC
?
I think most modern multimeters have a diode tester, which is a 500uA
current source, usually, with COM negative. The meter displays VF in
forward mode and OL (over limit) in reverse mode. There was something
about the the old d\'arsonval meters in ohms mode that put the positive
voltage on NEG lead and negative voltage on the POS lead. I\'m sure they
had their reasons, but it\'s something to be aware of when diode testing
with those things.
Yes, I have some of these (was recommended by someone here) was 4 for 10 dollars or so?
Still going strong:
https://panteltje.nl/pub/chinese_multimeter_img_3159.jpg
That diode symbol is also the \'beep\' continuity (short) test...
But should not be a problem, a DIAC should do OL both ways.
This technique works well without wasting time. Do you suppose it\'s
possible to use a DMM to differentiate a zener from the mess?
Danke,
Depends, a 3.3V zener perhaps... (forward a diode, reverse 3.3V)?
I have some 33V zeners (for varicap tuning) somewhere.
So for higher voltages use a power supply and series resistor.
There are also germanium diodes that may leak in reverse
An OA79 for example alreay leaks typical 35 uA (1.5 to 190 uA) at 30 V reverse at 25 degrees C.
I still have one
There are many 2 terminal devices, resistors, inductors, but most will have some markings...
On Sun, 11 Jun 2023 21:38:49 -0400, Phil Hobbs
pcdhSpamM...@electrooptical.net> wrote:
On 2023-06-11 12:58, Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Sun, 11 Jun 2023 09:00:08 -0700, John Larkin
jla...@highlandSNIPMEtechnology.com> wrote:
On Sun, 11 Jun 2023 14:46:23 GMT, Jan Panteltje <al...@comet.invalid
wrote:
On a sunny day (Sun, 11 Jun 2023 13:35:32 +0100) it happened Cursitor Doom
c...@notformail.com> wrote in <fmfb8iph1k37tsp9b...@4ax.com>:
On Sun, 11 Jun 2023 11:50:57 GMT, Jan Panteltje <al...@comet.invalid
wrote:
On a sunny day (Sun, 11 Jun 2023 11:58:47 +0100) it happened piglet
erichp...@hotmail.com> wrote in <u649d7$2m93o$1...@dont-email.me>:
On 11/06/2023 10:51 am, Cursitor Doom wrote:
Gentlemen,
I have a large assortment of diodes of all descriptions in my copious
parts inventory. However, there are some diacs in amongst them as I
recently discovered to my cost in terms of wasted time. Now these
diacs don\'t obey the customary blue marking and are visually
indistinguishable from regular rectifier diodes. To prevent future
fuck-ups, I need to identify the diacs and remove them from the
diodes. Can any of you gurus come up with a quick and simple test to
differentiate the two groups? The usual component testers don\'t seem
to work with diacs and just flag them as \'unknown or faulty part\' or
occasionally as zener diodes, which is even worse. Any ideas?
CD
You could make a simple curve tracer. Since diacs can have trigger
voltages of 30-40V it needs to be a bit higher voltage. You will need an
oscilloscope capable of XY tracing (like an old cathode ray based scope)
a resistor of say 1 or 2 kohm and a mains transformer with a secondary
of approx 30V rms to get a peak voltage comfortably above 40V. Wire the
unknown diode in series with the resistor across the transformer.
Connect the scope common to the diode-resistor junction and the X input
to the diode-transformer junction and Y input to the
resistor-transformer junction. The curves will help you identify regular
diodes from diacs and give a good estimate of zener volatge upto 43V or so.
piglet
Using a normal multimeter on the ohms range,
1.5 V and 9 V meter batteries assumed,
would show at least some conduction for diodes in one direction,
but not for DIACs in any direction (a few uA).
Would filter out non-diodes fast.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIAC
?
I like your idea for its simplicity, Jan. But I also like Erich\'s
suggestion for its more rigorous approach. The main problem AISI with
using a multimeter is that some of those assorted components may have
Shockley diodes among them, and they will confuse this test and appear
to be diacs. It\'s a complicated life, isn\'t it?
Only as complicated as you make it,
you could use different boxes for different stuff,
or I also do use labelled plastic bags in icecream boxes re-purposed for component storage:
https://panteltje.nl/pub/boxes_1_IMG_4429.JPG
https://panteltje.nl/pub/ice_cream_boxes_IMG_6540.JPG
I like coin envelopes in plastic or cardboard bins.
I can write stuff on the envelopes and they stack nicely.
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/z7x8p7agql2z2g6i08djk/Parts_1.JPG?raw=1
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ccgusd68typ3j6m8aenls/Parts_2.JPG?raw=1
Anyway, assuming your system matches your description, I have
inherited a shit-ton of components which are also stored in plastic
envelopes with permanent marker to say what they are. The problem I
find at any rate - YMMV - is that the volume of the plastic vastly
exceeds the volume of the components within, making for very bulky
storage requirements. Also, if the marker has been used on the outside
of the plastic, it gets scuffed off very easily and has to be
re-written over in a surprisingly short time. The only solution I\'ve
found that *really* is permanent, is those newer Dymo label makers.
Not the embossed type, but the thermographically printed variety. They
really do last indefinitely. The Chinese make cheap cartridge refills
for these and they work just as well as the originals.
https://tinyurl.com/2p93vff3
Old-timey ballpoint pen is very permanent, and ballpoints can be induced
to write on most polyethylene bags. Industrial Sharpies are much better
than the normal ones, but don\'t stand abrasion as well as ballpoint.
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
I\'m in a region which gets a huge amount of very bright daylight and
that bleaches off even black ballpoint within a couple of years.
Window glass is not very good at blocking UV. I have lots of books with bleachedOn Monday, June 12, 2023 at 5:14:55â¯AM UTC-4, Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Sun, 11 Jun 2023 21:38:49 -0400, Phil Hobbs
pcdhSpamM...@electrooptical.net> wrote:
On 2023-06-11 12:58, Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Sun, 11 Jun 2023 09:00:08 -0700, John Larkin
jla...@highlandSNIPMEtechnology.com> wrote:
On Sun, 11 Jun 2023 14:46:23 GMT, Jan Panteltje <al...@comet.invalid
wrote:
On a sunny day (Sun, 11 Jun 2023 13:35:32 +0100) it happened Cursitor Doom
c...@notformail.com> wrote in <fmfb8iph1k37tsp9b...@4ax.com>:
On Sun, 11 Jun 2023 11:50:57 GMT, Jan Panteltje <al...@comet.invalid
wrote:
On a sunny day (Sun, 11 Jun 2023 11:58:47 +0100) it happened piglet
erichp...@hotmail.com> wrote in <u649d7$2m93o$1...@dont-email.me>:
On 11/06/2023 10:51 am, Cursitor Doom wrote:
Gentlemen,
I have a large assortment of diodes of all descriptions in my copious
parts inventory. However, there are some diacs in amongst them as I
recently discovered to my cost in terms of wasted time. Now these
diacs don\'t obey the customary blue marking and are visually
indistinguishable from regular rectifier diodes. To prevent future
fuck-ups, I need to identify the diacs and remove them from the
diodes. Can any of you gurus come up with a quick and simple test to
differentiate the two groups? The usual component testers don\'t seem
to work with diacs and just flag them as \'unknown or faulty part\' or
occasionally as zener diodes, which is even worse. Any ideas?
CD
You could make a simple curve tracer. Since diacs can have trigger
voltages of 30-40V it needs to be a bit higher voltage. You will need an
oscilloscope capable of XY tracing (like an old cathode ray based scope)
a resistor of say 1 or 2 kohm and a mains transformer with a secondary
of approx 30V rms to get a peak voltage comfortably above 40V. Wire the
unknown diode in series with the resistor across the transformer.
Connect the scope common to the diode-resistor junction and the X input
to the diode-transformer junction and Y input to the
resistor-transformer junction. The curves will help you identify regular
diodes from diacs and give a good estimate of zener volatge upto 43V or so.
piglet
Using a normal multimeter on the ohms range,
1.5 V and 9 V meter batteries assumed,
would show at least some conduction for diodes in one direction,
but not for DIACs in any direction (a few uA).
Would filter out non-diodes fast.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIAC
?
I like your idea for its simplicity, Jan. But I also like Erich\'s
suggestion for its more rigorous approach. The main problem AISI with
using a multimeter is that some of those assorted components may have
Shockley diodes among them, and they will confuse this test and appear
to be diacs. It\'s a complicated life, isn\'t it?
Only as complicated as you make it,
you could use different boxes for different stuff,
or I also do use labelled plastic bags in icecream boxes re-purposed for component storage:
https://panteltje.nl/pub/boxes_1_IMG_4429.JPG
https://panteltje.nl/pub/ice_cream_boxes_IMG_6540.JPG
I like coin envelopes in plastic or cardboard bins.
I can write stuff on the envelopes and they stack nicely.
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/z7x8p7agql2z2g6i08djk/Parts_1.JPG?raw=1
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ccgusd68typ3j6m8aenls/Parts_2.JPG?raw=1
Anyway, assuming your system matches your description, I have
inherited a shit-ton of components which are also stored in plastic
envelopes with permanent marker to say what they are. The problem I
find at any rate - YMMV - is that the volume of the plastic vastly
exceeds the volume of the components within, making for very bulky
storage requirements. Also, if the marker has been used on the outside
of the plastic, it gets scuffed off very easily and has to be
re-written over in a surprisingly short time. The only solution I\'ve
found that *really* is permanent, is those newer Dymo label makers.
Not the embossed type, but the thermographically printed variety. They
really do last indefinitely. The Chinese make cheap cartridge refills
for these and they work just as well as the originals.
https://tinyurl.com/2p93vff3
Old-timey ballpoint pen is very permanent, and ballpoints can be induced
to write on most polyethylene bags. Industrial Sharpies are much better
than the normal ones, but don\'t stand abrasion as well as ballpoint.
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
I\'m in a region which gets a huge amount of very bright daylight and
that bleaches off even black ballpoint within a couple of years.
The writing gets bleached from things *indoors*??? That\'s some bright sunlight. Are you on Mercury?
On Monday, 12 June 2023 at 17:00:18 UTC+1, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, June 12, 2023 at 5:14:55â¯AM UTC-4, Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Sun, 11 Jun 2023 21:38:49 -0400, Phil Hobbs
pcdhSpamM...@electrooptical.net> wrote:
On 2023-06-11 12:58, Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Sun, 11 Jun 2023 09:00:08 -0700, John Larkin
jla...@highlandSNIPMEtechnology.com> wrote:
On Sun, 11 Jun 2023 14:46:23 GMT, Jan Panteltje <al...@comet.invalid
wrote:
On a sunny day (Sun, 11 Jun 2023 13:35:32 +0100) it happened Cursitor Doom
c...@notformail.com> wrote in <fmfb8iph1k37tsp9b...@4ax.com>:
On Sun, 11 Jun 2023 11:50:57 GMT, Jan Panteltje <al...@comet.invalid
wrote:
On a sunny day (Sun, 11 Jun 2023 11:58:47 +0100) it happened piglet
erichp...@hotmail.com> wrote in <u649d7$2m93o$1...@dont-email..me>:
On 11/06/2023 10:51 am, Cursitor Doom wrote:
Gentlemen,
I have a large assortment of diodes of all descriptions in my copious
parts inventory. However, there are some diacs in amongst them as I
recently discovered to my cost in terms of wasted time. Now these
diacs don\'t obey the customary blue marking and are visually
indistinguishable from regular rectifier diodes. To prevent future
fuck-ups, I need to identify the diacs and remove them from the
diodes. Can any of you gurus come up with a quick and simple test to
differentiate the two groups? The usual component testers don\'t seem
to work with diacs and just flag them as \'unknown or faulty part\' or
occasionally as zener diodes, which is even worse. Any ideas?
CD
You could make a simple curve tracer. Since diacs can have trigger
voltages of 30-40V it needs to be a bit higher voltage. You will need an
oscilloscope capable of XY tracing (like an old cathode ray based scope)
a resistor of say 1 or 2 kohm and a mains transformer with a secondary
of approx 30V rms to get a peak voltage comfortably above 40V.. Wire the
unknown diode in series with the resistor across the transformer.
Connect the scope common to the diode-resistor junction and the X input
to the diode-transformer junction and Y input to the
resistor-transformer junction. The curves will help you identify regular
diodes from diacs and give a good estimate of zener volatge upto 43V or so.
piglet
Using a normal multimeter on the ohms range,
1.5 V and 9 V meter batteries assumed,
would show at least some conduction for diodes in one direction,
but not for DIACs in any direction (a few uA).
Would filter out non-diodes fast.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIAC
?
I like your idea for its simplicity, Jan. But I also like Erich\'s
suggestion for its more rigorous approach. The main problem AISI with
using a multimeter is that some of those assorted components may have
Shockley diodes among them, and they will confuse this test and appear
to be diacs. It\'s a complicated life, isn\'t it?
Only as complicated as you make it,
you could use different boxes for different stuff,
or I also do use labelled plastic bags in icecream boxes re-purposed for component storage:
https://panteltje.nl/pub/boxes_1_IMG_4429.JPG
https://panteltje.nl/pub/ice_cream_boxes_IMG_6540.JPG
I like coin envelopes in plastic or cardboard bins.
I can write stuff on the envelopes and they stack nicely.
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/z7x8p7agql2z2g6i08djk/Parts_1.JPG?raw=1
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ccgusd68typ3j6m8aenls/Parts_2.JPG?raw=1
Anyway, assuming your system matches your description, I have
inherited a shit-ton of components which are also stored in plastic
envelopes with permanent marker to say what they are. The problem I
find at any rate - YMMV - is that the volume of the plastic vastly
exceeds the volume of the components within, making for very bulky
storage requirements. Also, if the marker has been used on the outside
of the plastic, it gets scuffed off very easily and has to be
re-written over in a surprisingly short time. The only solution I\'ve
found that *really* is permanent, is those newer Dymo label makers..
Not the embossed type, but the thermographically printed variety. They
really do last indefinitely. The Chinese make cheap cartridge refills
for these and they work just as well as the originals.
https://tinyurl.com/2p93vff3
Old-timey ballpoint pen is very permanent, and ballpoints can be induced
to write on most polyethylene bags. Industrial Sharpies are much better
than the normal ones, but don\'t stand abrasion as well as ballpoint.
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
I\'m in a region which gets a huge amount of very bright daylight and
that bleaches off even black ballpoint within a couple of years.
The writing gets bleached from things *indoors*??? That\'s some bright sunlight. Are you on Mercury?
Window glass is not very good at blocking UV. I have lots of books with bleached
spines. The 365nm UV from my LED torch is just as effective at making things
fluoresce through a double-glazed window as it is pointed directly at the object.
Things may be different at shorter wavelengths.
John
On Monday, 12 June 2023 at 17:00:18 UTC+1, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, June 12, 2023 at 5:14:55?AM UTC-4, Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Sun, 11 Jun 2023 21:38:49 -0400, Phil Hobbs
pcdhSpamM...@electrooptical.net> wrote:
On 2023-06-11 12:58, Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Sun, 11 Jun 2023 09:00:08 -0700, John Larkin
jla...@highlandSNIPMEtechnology.com> wrote:
On Sun, 11 Jun 2023 14:46:23 GMT, Jan Panteltje <al...@comet.invalid
wrote:
On a sunny day (Sun, 11 Jun 2023 13:35:32 +0100) it happened Cursitor Doom
c...@notformail.com> wrote in <fmfb8iph1k37tsp9b...@4ax.com>:
On Sun, 11 Jun 2023 11:50:57 GMT, Jan Panteltje <al...@comet.invalid
wrote:
On a sunny day (Sun, 11 Jun 2023 11:58:47 +0100) it happened piglet
erichp...@hotmail.com> wrote in <u649d7$2m93o$1...@dont-email.me>:
On 11/06/2023 10:51 am, Cursitor Doom wrote:
Gentlemen,
I have a large assortment of diodes of all descriptions in my copious
parts inventory. However, there are some diacs in amongst them as I
recently discovered to my cost in terms of wasted time. Now these
diacs don\'t obey the customary blue marking and are visually
indistinguishable from regular rectifier diodes. To prevent future
fuck-ups, I need to identify the diacs and remove them from the
diodes. Can any of you gurus come up with a quick and simple test to
differentiate the two groups? The usual component testers don\'t seem
to work with diacs and just flag them as \'unknown or faulty part\' or
occasionally as zener diodes, which is even worse. Any ideas?
CD
You could make a simple curve tracer. Since diacs can have trigger
voltages of 30-40V it needs to be a bit higher voltage. You will need an
oscilloscope capable of XY tracing (like an old cathode ray based scope)
a resistor of say 1 or 2 kohm and a mains transformer with a secondary
of approx 30V rms to get a peak voltage comfortably above 40V. Wire the
unknown diode in series with the resistor across the transformer.
Connect the scope common to the diode-resistor junction and the X input
to the diode-transformer junction and Y input to the
resistor-transformer junction. The curves will help you identify regular
diodes from diacs and give a good estimate of zener volatge upto 43V or so.
piglet
Using a normal multimeter on the ohms range,
1.5 V and 9 V meter batteries assumed,
would show at least some conduction for diodes in one direction,
but not for DIACs in any direction (a few uA).
Would filter out non-diodes fast.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIAC
?
I like your idea for its simplicity, Jan. But I also like Erich\'s
suggestion for its more rigorous approach. The main problem AISI with
using a multimeter is that some of those assorted components may have
Shockley diodes among them, and they will confuse this test and appear
to be diacs. It\'s a complicated life, isn\'t it?
Only as complicated as you make it,
you could use different boxes for different stuff,
or I also do use labelled plastic bags in icecream boxes re-purposed for component storage:
https://panteltje.nl/pub/boxes_1_IMG_4429.JPG
https://panteltje.nl/pub/ice_cream_boxes_IMG_6540.JPG
I like coin envelopes in plastic or cardboard bins.
I can write stuff on the envelopes and they stack nicely.
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/z7x8p7agql2z2g6i08djk/Parts_1.JPG?raw=1
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ccgusd68typ3j6m8aenls/Parts_2.JPG?raw=1
Anyway, assuming your system matches your description, I have
inherited a shit-ton of components which are also stored in plastic
envelopes with permanent marker to say what they are. The problem I
find at any rate - YMMV - is that the volume of the plastic vastly
exceeds the volume of the components within, making for very bulky
storage requirements. Also, if the marker has been used on the outside
of the plastic, it gets scuffed off very easily and has to be
re-written over in a surprisingly short time. The only solution I\'ve
found that *really* is permanent, is those newer Dymo label makers.
Not the embossed type, but the thermographically printed variety. They
really do last indefinitely. The Chinese make cheap cartridge refills
for these and they work just as well as the originals.
https://tinyurl.com/2p93vff3
Old-timey ballpoint pen is very permanent, and ballpoints can be induced
to write on most polyethylene bags. Industrial Sharpies are much better
than the normal ones, but don\'t stand abrasion as well as ballpoint.
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
I\'m in a region which gets a huge amount of very bright daylight and
that bleaches off even black ballpoint within a couple of years.
The writing gets bleached from things *indoors*??? That\'s some bright sunlight. Are you on Mercury?
Window glass is not very good at blocking UV. I have lots of books with bleached
spines. The 365nm UV from my LED torch is just as effective at making things
fluoresce through a double-glazed window as it is pointed directly at the object.
Things may be different at shorter wavelengths.
John
On Mon, 12 Jun 2023 09:18:20 -0700 (PDT), John Walliker
jrwal...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Monday, 12 June 2023 at 17:00:18 UTC+1, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, June 12, 2023 at 5:14:55?AM UTC-4, Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Sun, 11 Jun 2023 21:38:49 -0400, Phil Hobbs
pcdhSpamM...@electrooptical.net> wrote:
On 2023-06-11 12:58, Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Sun, 11 Jun 2023 09:00:08 -0700, John Larkin
jla...@highlandSNIPMEtechnology.com> wrote:
On Sun, 11 Jun 2023 14:46:23 GMT, Jan Panteltje <al...@comet.invalid
wrote:
On a sunny day (Sun, 11 Jun 2023 13:35:32 +0100) it happened Cursitor Doom
c...@notformail.com> wrote in <fmfb8iph1k37tsp9b...@4ax.com>:
On Sun, 11 Jun 2023 11:50:57 GMT, Jan Panteltje <al...@comet.invalid
wrote:
On a sunny day (Sun, 11 Jun 2023 11:58:47 +0100) it happened piglet
erichp...@hotmail.com> wrote in <u649d7$2m93o$1...@dont-email.me>:
On 11/06/2023 10:51 am, Cursitor Doom wrote:
Gentlemen,
I have a large assortment of diodes of all descriptions in my copious
parts inventory. However, there are some diacs in amongst them as I
recently discovered to my cost in terms of wasted time. Now these
diacs don\'t obey the customary blue marking and are visually
indistinguishable from regular rectifier diodes. To prevent future
fuck-ups, I need to identify the diacs and remove them from the
diodes. Can any of you gurus come up with a quick and simple test to
differentiate the two groups? The usual component testers don\'t seem
to work with diacs and just flag them as \'unknown or faulty part\' or
occasionally as zener diodes, which is even worse. Any ideas?
CD
You could make a simple curve tracer. Since diacs can have trigger
voltages of 30-40V it needs to be a bit higher voltage. You will need an
oscilloscope capable of XY tracing (like an old cathode ray based scope)
a resistor of say 1 or 2 kohm and a mains transformer with a secondary
of approx 30V rms to get a peak voltage comfortably above 40V. Wire the
unknown diode in series with the resistor across the transformer.
Connect the scope common to the diode-resistor junction and the X input
to the diode-transformer junction and Y input to the
resistor-transformer junction. The curves will help you identify regular
diodes from diacs and give a good estimate of zener volatge upto 43V or so.
piglet
Using a normal multimeter on the ohms range,
1.5 V and 9 V meter batteries assumed,
would show at least some conduction for diodes in one direction,
but not for DIACs in any direction (a few uA).
Would filter out non-diodes fast.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIAC
?
I like your idea for its simplicity, Jan. But I also like Erich\'s
suggestion for its more rigorous approach. The main problem AISI with
using a multimeter is that some of those assorted components may have
Shockley diodes among them, and they will confuse this test and appear
to be diacs. It\'s a complicated life, isn\'t it?
Only as complicated as you make it,
you could use different boxes for different stuff,
or I also do use labelled plastic bags in icecream boxes re-purposed for component storage:
https://panteltje.nl/pub/boxes_1_IMG_4429.JPG
https://panteltje.nl/pub/ice_cream_boxes_IMG_6540.JPG
I like coin envelopes in plastic or cardboard bins.
I can write stuff on the envelopes and they stack nicely.
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/z7x8p7agql2z2g6i08djk/Parts_1.JPG?raw=1
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ccgusd68typ3j6m8aenls/Parts_2.JPG?raw=1
Anyway, assuming your system matches your description, I have
inherited a shit-ton of components which are also stored in plastic
envelopes with permanent marker to say what they are. The problem I
find at any rate - YMMV - is that the volume of the plastic vastly
exceeds the volume of the components within, making for very bulky
storage requirements. Also, if the marker has been used on the outside
of the plastic, it gets scuffed off very easily and has to be
re-written over in a surprisingly short time. The only solution I\'ve
found that *really* is permanent, is those newer Dymo label makers.
Not the embossed type, but the thermographically printed variety. They
really do last indefinitely. The Chinese make cheap cartridge refills
for these and they work just as well as the originals.
https://tinyurl.com/2p93vff3
Old-timey ballpoint pen is very permanent, and ballpoints can be induced
to write on most polyethylene bags. Industrial Sharpies are much better
than the normal ones, but don\'t stand abrasion as well as ballpoint..
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
I\'m in a region which gets a huge amount of very bright daylight and
that bleaches off even black ballpoint within a couple of years.
The writing gets bleached from things *indoors*??? That\'s some bright sunlight. Are you on Mercury?
Window glass is not very good at blocking UV. I have lots of books with bleached
spines. The 365nm UV from my LED torch is just as effective at making things
fluoresce through a double-glazed window as it is pointed directly at the object.
Things may be different at shorter wavelengths.
John
Yes, it\'s curious. Yet I can sit behind a window in the same daylight
and not get a tan, so the glass must be blocking some very specific
wavelength pertaining to melanin.