audio recording on IC -help wanted

[petrus bitbyter]

"CA Zuke" <ceauke@yahoo.com> schreef in bericht
news:ff8b1683.0410150031.7cfb2b93@posting.google.com...

Hi,

Can someone PLEASE tell me what the current (Amperes) should be for
powering a pic?

I use a L7805 voltage regulator but it still seems like I can get a
whole range of different levels of current depending on the batteries
use. (also you get different Amps for the L7805. Some are 0.1A and
others are 1A or even 2A)

I have 4 1.2V 1800mA batteries but I guess that current is far too
high. The 9V rechargable I have is 150mAh. How is it possible that the
9V has so little curent compared to he 1.2V??? I aways thought 9V is
stronger?

Anyway.. I really want to power my pic off a battery. So please let me
know what the current and voltage should be.

Thanks in advance
CE AUKE

You'll first have to learn something about electricity. Voltage, current,
resistance and Ohms law. Otherwise you'll never be able to understand what
you need, let alone find out how to make it. I can't write a course on it
right now and any usefull answer on your question prerequites some basic
knowledge.

petrus bitbyter


---
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[Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su]

<William P.N. Smith> wrote in message
news:asdfn0d26ib4i3c8q6u0j71kq26945h6oe@4ax.com...

"Damn Dan" <a@a.com> wrote:
I'll probably try charging the battery once
without waking up the BCM and see what happens. The worst it'll do
is

... confuse the onboard computer as to the state of charge of the
battery and cause it to overcharge it significantly, reducing it's
lifetime while voiding the warranty. 8*|

If the subject is a personal pronoun (him, her, it, you, me, them), no
apostrophe is used.
http://tranchant.plus.com/notes/apostrophe

I enjoy reading your posts and I'm not trying to pick on you, I'm just
trying to show how easy it is to remember a simple rule. Thanks.

 

[Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su]

<William P.N. Smith> wrote in message
news4efn05r0vk62p1tnnga41m5f9jd6j3r0i@4ax.com...

"Damn Dan" <a@a.com> wrote:
Good point. I'm definitely going on faith that the many onboard
sensors
(serveral voltage, current, and temperature sensors) will pick up the
change
and react accordingly.

NiMH batteries have a very flat SOC/Voltage curve...

Well, the cheap ones I got from Fry's and other stores don't seem to
discharge without a significant V drop. But then I don't use them to
run my vehicles.

 

[Clarence]

"Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, the Dark Remover"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com> wrote in
message news:10ni0l65v10kr55@corp.supernews.com...

If the subject is a personal pronoun (him, her, it, you, me, them), no
apostrophe is used.
http://tranchant.plus.com/notes/apostrophe

I enjoy reading your posts and I'm not trying to pick on you, I'm just
trying to show how easy it is to remember a simple rule. Thanks.

Actually he likes to pick on everyone, so don't feel your being singled out for
special treatment. After a while you learn to ignore him!

 

[Damn Dan]

"Ross Herbert" <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:tbnhn09k37p7tqbahm5g2o9pbre9obent7@4ax.com...

On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 20:59:25 -0700, "Damn Dan" <a@a.com> wrote:

"Ross Herbert" <rherber1SPAMEX@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:u5vgn0h46dcjh8v9rguji1kq05b4qtlpp2@4ax.com...
On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 19:31:23 -0700, "Damn Dan" <a@a.com> wrote:

|
|I live in Arizona. If you do a little research, you'll find that the
|Southwest receives some of the highest solar energy per square foot in
the
|country. The change of seasons and weather do not change the ambient
solar
|energy all that much around here.
|
|My hybrid battery has a mere 6.4Ah capacity. The internal circuitry
limits
|the available capacity to the middle 60%, thus there is a realistic
capacity
|of 3.84Ah. On my drive to work, I use between 5-10% of that capacity.
|That's .384Ah. By keeping my battery charged, I prevent the electric
|generator from sipping energy off of my forward momentum to recharge
the
|battery. I have calculated through observation that I get about 10mpg
less
|when the battery is charging itself while I drive. So yes, acheiving
.384Ah
|a day will save a lot of gas.

It would perhaps have saved some misunderstanding all around if the
above information had been included in the first post... It is
difficult to make suggestions with none of the important information
being provided.

In general, I fully agree, but a complete description of my project
wasn't
the intention of my original post. I gave a very broad description in
the
beginning just to familiarize the reader with the general concept of what
I
was doing. Then I asked one specific question at the end (about two
sources
interacting in the same circuit), which was the whole purpose of the
post.
If people want to discuss other aspects of the system, that's wonderful
and
I look forward to reading their replies. But I feel Mike quickly and
harshly judged my post without bothering to gather the facts he was
missing.
His sarcasm was directly aimed at making me look like an idiot, and I
didn't
appreciate that, especially since the majority of his points were based
on
assumptions. I feel my response to him was an appropriate response based
on
the tone of his post.

I wasn't making any comment on your response to Mike since I would
probably have done the same were I in your shoes. It's just that when
it comes to asking for advice on complex subjects such as battery
charging the first thing anyone giving advice wants to know is "how
big is the battery (capacity) and how quick do you want to charge it?"
and that info is most useful when supplied in the original post. Some
people may not be familiar with the equipment in which the battery is
used either so that makes it a little more difficult as well.

Granted, but like I said, I made the original post to get one specific
question answered (regarding multiple sources in the same circuit). I
honestly thought the thread wouldn't turn into more than 3 or 4 posts at
most. I've been pretty thrilled by the discussion it has produced, though.
It was unexpected.

 

"Watson A.Name - \"Watt Sun, the Dark Remover\""
<NOSPAM@dslextreme.com> wrote:

I enjoy reading your posts and I'm not trying to pick on you, I'm just
trying to show how easy it is to remember a simple rule. Thanks.

The rule I've never been able to figure out is "Does Anal-Retentive
have a hyphen?"

Thanks for your input.

 

[Winfield Hill]

LOC wrote...

Winfield wrote ...
LOC wrote...

I am looking for a device to translate 100Mhz sinusoidal waveform, -
2 dBm, load 50 ohm (it meams 0.5V peak to peak, DC offset 0 Volt) to
TTL level. The supply is -/+5 Volt. I know using a comparator can
do the work, but it is not fast device for 100Mhz to TTL.

What are you going to drive with the resulting "TTL" signal?

Output signal will drive CPLD (requires minimum High i/p
Voltage = 2V, Max Low i/p V =0.8 V) 3.3 V supply.

There are fast expensive comparators, but that does seem overkill.

Hal suggested cap coupling your signal to an inverter stage and
biasing the inverter from its output with a 100k resistor. This
is a simple approach and works well up to say 50MHz with ordinary
HC logic inverters (the unbuffered types are preferred), but it's
likely to be marginal at 100MHz.

Your cPLD's logic gates are fast enough, and I have successfully
used cPLD inputs in a linear manner (e.g. for crude timers), but
one wouldn't suggest using the class-A biasing trick with a cPLD.

So your best bet may be one of the newer faster logic families.
For example, TI's 74AHCU04 has a typical 3.5ns propagation delay
into a 15pF load, operated from 5V, so it's clearly fast enough
to work fine with a 5ns high and 5ns low square wave. ON Semi's
74VHC1GU04DT single gate inverter is rated at 2.5ns typical.

Note how the smaller part (the 1GU04DT comes in a sot23 package)
follows the established rule of having a longer part number.


--
Thanks,
- Win

(email: use hill_at_rowland-dotties-org for now)

 

[Winfield Hill]

Dave VanHorn wrote...

Isn't there a 13700 or 13800 that replaces it?

The LM13700 is virtually identical, only a slight difference in
output darlington bias. It's in full production and marketing,
free samples, etc., http://www.national.com/pf/LM/LM13700.html


--
Thanks,
- Win

(email: use hill_at_rowland-dotties-org for now)

 

[john]

Post the Numbers ...You might have Gold !

kip

 

[Clarence]

"Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, the Dark Remover"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com> wrote in
message news:10nncmo9pvjsb3e@corp.supernews.com...

"Clarence" <no@No.com> wrote in message
news:uI7ed.33522$QJ3.11413@newssvr21.news.prodigy.com...

"Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, the Dark Remover"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com
wrote in
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"Clarence" <no@No.com> wrote in message
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William P.N. Smith> wrote in message
news:spdfn0pdabp0h5skavjijrqulfcabqtpsk@4ax.com...
"Clarence" <no@No.com> wrote:
A 200 Amp 12 Volt Charger can be bought new for $120.00

Really, where? Or are we talking about a battery booster at the
local gas station to dump some uncontrolled charge into the battery?

I did a Google search, there were many hits and the one I priced
as an example
was a 'three level' charger with a 500 Amp "booster" mode for
starting.

There were 47,800 hits for a 200 Amp Charger and many were
duplicates.
I am sure that many were the gas station variety.
The one I priced was among the cheapest, but there were MANY more
to choose from.

We had an electric vehicle "golf cart" at work for a year, and I
read
the manual for it. They esxplained <typo?> that the three pronged
plug had
one
pin for the onboard computer to control the charger. This was for a
48VDC lead acid system. So the trend today seems to be towards more
intelligent chargers, and hence the higher prices.

Interestingly, the book also explained that when the yellow "low
battery" light on the dash lit up, you had two hours or 36 holes of
golf left(!) )


Having designed some chargers for Golf carts and fork lift trucks, I
can tell
you that More intelligent does not mean more expensive. My last
design was one
third the cost to build for the simple single control unit it
replaced.

More silicon and less iron? In other words, a switch mode power
supply..

That too. Let the Chargers be built into the Cart instead of lining up at one
station.

 

[Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su]

"Ross Herbert" <rherber1SPAMEX@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
newstr6n0hbnfpbro61itov63eqrupmuc6nnr@4ax.com...

You are starting from the wrong end...

You need to determine the charging requirements of the 165V battery
itself before anything else. Only then can you determine what is
required of your charging circuitry and design it accordingly. The
fact that you want to use a 12V (nominal), 80W solar panel as the
charging source simply because that is what you have on hand is not
the way to go about the problem. Once you know what the charging
requirements of the battery are you can then determine how many solar
panels you will require in order to charge a 12V,24V or 48V battery to
power a suitable dc - ac inverter/rectifier/charging arrangement.

I don't buy that at all. Firs off, he doesn't need to know the charging
requuirements of the 165V battery because it can charge at anywhere up
to hundreds of amps for short periods. And he will never be able to buy
enough solar cells to do that, let alone the next problem.

And the next problem is that the solar cells will put out anywhere from
max to min to zero depending on the time of day, and the weather,
cloudy, overcast, etc. So he needs a converter that can handle a large
variation in input power. Why should he need an intermediate battery,
12V, etc. to charge? That's just a waste of efficiecny.

What he needs is a converter that monitors the input voltage to see if
it drops below a threshold, as long as it stays at about 12V, pull as
much current from the solar cells as it can. Then monitor the output
voltage to make sure it doesn't go much above 200V, so that if the
converter is not plugged into the battery, it shuts down.

What I would do is start with a standard Dc-Dc converter like those used
for running tube equipment off 12V. Add an overvoltage monitor to the
output, and under voltage to the input. And fuses, of course.

And he can put a large capacitor across the solar cell, to hold enough
charge to run the converter for a second or two. If the converter
charges in spurts, that's okay, too.

On Sun, 17 Oct 2004 21:42:58 -0700, "Damn Dan" <a@a.com> wrote:

|I've been working on a project that would recharge the battery of my
Honda
|Insight (a hybrid vehicle) while I'm parked at work using a solar
panel.
|The Insight's battery pack averages around 165V during usage.
Currently I
|have the solar panel constantly charging a 12V battery with an
appropriate
|charge controller. The battery is then connected to a 12Vdc to
120Vac
|inverter, which is connected to a 120Vac to 220Vac converter, which
is in
|turn rectified to 220Vdc. I actually only get 200Vdc in the end, I
guess
|just due to inefficiencies.
|
|I'm trying to design a current limiter that would only allow as much
power
|into the 165V battery as is coming in from the solar panel. The
panel is
|80W, so after it's been stepped up to 200V, the output current is
0.4Amps
|(200V * .4A = 80W). Thus, I want to implement a current limiter that
will
|only allow 0.4A into the 165V battery.
|
|The main issue I'm dealing with right now is understanding how two
power
|sources interact with each other in the same circuit. Specifically,
I have
|a 200V source charging a 165V battery with 0.4Ohms internal
resistance. So
|is that exactly equivelent to setting up a circuit with a 35V source
|(200V-165V = 35V) and a 0.4Ohm resistor? I set that circuit up in
PSpice,
|but it doesn't seem to account for the two DC sources interacting
with each
|other. Any thoughts?
|

 

"Clarence" <no@No.com> wrote:

Let the Chargers be built into the Cart instead of lining up at one
station.

Oh, heavens, No! Besides the weight penalty, there's the inability to
share chargers between carts if one fails, and the mechanical
unreliability of the cord reel. Club Car has it as an option, but
IMHO it's a really bad idea (though I suppose in some applications
it's useful).

 

"Watson A.Name - \"Watt Sun, the Dark Remover\""
<NOSPAM@dslextreme.com> wrote:

Someone should develop a braking system for these that pumps all that
wasted energy back into the battery. Probably increase the range
dramatically.

Cluub Car does this on their carts, but it's only useful on hilly
drives.

 

[nospam]

"Damn Dan" <a@a.com> wrote:

I'm fascinated by all this.
Over 8-hours, you get at most 640WH. Depending on where you live and
what season it is and the weather and...and...and...maybe MUCH less.
About how much gas will this save you per day??
How much gas does it cost you to haul around all this extra weight?
What's the cost of a new set of batteries when your controller fries
'em? What's the cost of
the remote alarm system you'll need to let you know when someone stole
the panel?

Where are you gonna park it? Complete address please ;-)

...fascinating...
mike

Mike. Your credulousness is embarassing you.

I presume he didn't also spend that much money on an 'economy' car - he is
rather less credulous than you.

An 80W panel, once stepped up to 200V, will only deliver at most 0.4A. This
will trickle charge the battery. Rechargable batteries are able to handle
trickle charging for a very long period of time (on the order of weeks or
months). As you have already proven you know nothing about the subject, I
did not expect you to know that.

Your car battery has an energy storage capacity of around 3.4MJ. Gasoline
has a stored energy capacity of around 43MJ/kg.

Assuming your battery/controls/electric motor is twice as efficient as your
car engine your battery is equivalent to 16g or about 22ml of gasoline.

Assuming you could arrange to arrive at work every day with a completely
flat battery (which you can't) and fully charge it during the day you
would save 22ml of gas.

You real gas saving is unlikely to be more than 1/2 gallon/year. Do you
think that is worth all the trouble you are going to and the 300? bucks you
spent on the panel?

 

[BobGardner]

|>(1 inch)*(1 lbf)/(0.0002 sec) = (25 mm)*(4.4N)/(0.0002 sec) = 550 watts.
|
|>(1 inch)*(1 lbf)/(0.0002 sec)/(550 ft*lb/hp) = 0.76 Hp.
===================

What voltage? Lets say 170 (rectified line voltage). So you need 3.2 amps for
the time of a full stroke (2ms?) Now how big a cap do we need to hold this amt
of charge? 1/2 CV^2 or something??

 

[legg]

On 20 Oct 2004 16:52:47 -0700, ranjeet_r2003@yahoo.co.in (ranjeet)
wrote:

Dear Friends,
I am an electronics graduate. And i used to study about multiple
emitter transistors and multiple collector transistors in my digital
electronics paper.
They are included in most of the gate architectures like TTL and IIL.
Then i wonder why there is no multiple base transistors. And if
someone like that is present then the design of ECL will be much more
simple. So I want to know that is there any stuctural difficulties for
making a multiple base transistor. Or is there any exists. So if
anyone know more about them please give me the details. I will be much
greatful to you.

Regards,
Renjith.R

You might be interested to note that multiple base and multiple
emitter discrete transistors were JEDEC registered and marketed up
into the early '70s.

TI produced dual-base bipolars 3N34,35 and others including 3N56 in
TO-12 packages (4-lead TO-5), as well as dual emitter NPN parts 3N74
through 3N79 and dual emitter PNP parts 3N108 through 3N111 in TO-72
packages (4-lead TO-18).

These were second-sourced by Sprague.

Some custom IC mfrs will provide breadboading devices with multiple
lead components taken discretely to package pins, to their customers,
to aid in simulating the final integrated part.

There are so many more flexible alternatives to using this structure
in discrete applications, that it is unlikely to be marketed as such,
again.

RL

 

[Clarence]

"Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, the Dark Remover"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com> wrote in
message news:10nf4a14lkbolfd@corp.supernews.com...

"Clarence" <no@No.com> wrote in message
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"Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, the Dark Remover"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com
wrote in
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"Florian" <petafrog@evilemail.com> wrote in message
news:m34qko4rip.fsf@tiainen.domain.invalid...
"Damn Dan" <a@a.com> writes:

(snip)

I'd be nice if Honda did provide some kind of solar device or at
least
an external charger... that'd make my life a lot easier.

Wouldn't an external charger be the way to go in any case? In
other
posts you've mentioned that 1) driving to work consumes 10% of the
battery charge, and 2) when the battery goes below 50%, the car
starts
recharging it, reducing your gas mileage. From this, it seems the
solar
panel is an unnecessary complication -- if you can make a round
trip
commute to work with only 80% loss, you're not triggering the
recharge
cycle, so why not just top off the battery at home every night
from a
wall socket and forget about fickle and expensive solar panel?

From what I've read, the all electric vehicles have to have a
massive,
special charger installed at your home. That's not cheap, something
like $5k, plus you then have to pay for the electricity.

(snip)

Really?
Why so much?
A 200 Amp 12 Volt Charger can be bought new for $120.00

Well, for one thing, if one expects to get up in the morning and find
his car fully charged, it will have to be higher capacity than that.
And we're discussing about battery voltages closer to 200VDC.

Remember that we're talking about all electric vehicles. I.E. a 5 or6
kVA charger. http://www.autoworld.com/news/Toyota/RAV4_EV.htm

WOW, quite a hit on the electric bill if you charge for 10 hours a night.

 

[Ross Herbert]

On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 20:59:25 -0700, "Damn Dan" <a@a.com> wrote:

"Ross Herbert" <rherber1SPAMEX@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:u5vgn0h46dcjh8v9rguji1kq05b4qtlpp2@4ax.com...
On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 19:31:23 -0700, "Damn Dan" <a@a.com> wrote:

|
|I live in Arizona. If you do a little research, you'll find that the
|Southwest receives some of the highest solar energy per square foot in
the
|country. The change of seasons and weather do not change the ambient
solar
|energy all that much around here.
|
|My hybrid battery has a mere 6.4Ah capacity. The internal circuitry
limits
|the available capacity to the middle 60%, thus there is a realistic
capacity
|of 3.84Ah. On my drive to work, I use between 5-10% of that capacity.
|That's .384Ah. By keeping my battery charged, I prevent the electric
|generator from sipping energy off of my forward momentum to recharge the
|battery. I have calculated through observation that I get about 10mpg
less
|when the battery is charging itself while I drive. So yes, acheiving
.384Ah
|a day will save a lot of gas.

It would perhaps have saved some misunderstanding all around if the
above information had been included in the first post... It is
difficult to make suggestions with none of the important information
being provided.

In general, I fully agree, but a complete description of my project wasn't
the intention of my original post. I gave a very broad description in the
beginning just to familiarize the reader with the general concept of what I
was doing. Then I asked one specific question at the end (about two sources
interacting in the same circuit), which was the whole purpose of the post.
If people want to discuss other aspects of the system, that's wonderful and
I look forward to reading their replies. But I feel Mike quickly and
harshly judged my post without bothering to gather the facts he was missing.
His sarcasm was directly aimed at making me look like an idiot, and I didn't
appreciate that, especially since the majority of his points were based on
assumptions. I feel my response to him was an appropriate response based on
the tone of his post.

I wasn't making any comment on your response to Mike since I would

probably have done the same were I in your shoes. It's just that when
it comes to asking for advice on complex subjects such as battery
charging the first thing anyone giving advice wants to know is "how
big is the battery (capacity) and how quick do you want to charge it?"
and that info is most useful when supplied in the original post. Some
people may not be familiar with the equipment in which the battery is
used either so that makes it a little more difficult as well.

 

[Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su]

"Clarence" <no@No.com> wrote in message
news:U6Sdd.16988$nj.8537@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com...

William P.N. Smith> wrote in message
news:spdfn0pdabp0h5skavjijrqulfcabqtpsk@4ax.com...
"Clarence" <no@No.com> wrote:
A 200 Amp 12 Volt Charger can be bought new for $120.00

Really, where? Or are we talking about a battery booster at the
local
gas station to dump some uncontrolled charge into the battery?


I did a Google search, there were many hits and the one I priced as an
example
was a 'three level' charger with a 500 Amp "booster" mode for
starting.

There were 47,800 hits for a 200 Amp Charger and many were duplicates.
I am sure that many were the gas station variety.
The one I priced was among the cheapest, but there were MANY more to
choose
from.

We had an electric vehicle "golf cart" at work for a year, and I read
the manual for it. They esxplained that the three pronged plug had one
pin for the onboard computer to control the charger. This was for a
48VDC lead acid system. So the trend today seems to be towards more
intelligent chargers, and hence the higher prices.

Interestingly, the book also explained that when the yellow "low
battery" light on the dash lit up, you had two hours or 36 holes of
golf left(!) )

 

[Damn Dan]

"Florian" <petafrog@evilemail.com> wrote in message
news:m34qko4rip.fsf@tiainen.domain.invalid...

"Damn Dan" <a@a.com> writes:

(snip)

I'd be nice if Honda did provide some kind of solar device or at least
an external charger... that'd make my life a lot easier.

Wouldn't an external charger be the way to go in any case? In other
posts you've mentioned that 1) driving to work consumes 10% of the
battery charge, and 2) when the battery goes below 50%, the car starts
recharging it, reducing your gas mileage. From this, it seems the solar
panel is an unnecessary complication -- if you can make a round trip
commute to work with only 80% loss, you're not triggering the recharge
cycle, so why not just top off the battery at home every night from a
wall socket and forget about fickle and expensive solar panel?

Meet the pseudo-environmentalist in me. I like the thought that the energy
I'm using to charge the battery is completely renewable. Besides, solar
panels are just way cooler than wall sockets.

(Don't bother yelling at me about how much energy and resources solar panels
take to make... I know my logic is flawed, but hey, I'm having fun right?)