audio recording on IC -help wanted

On 02/07/2014 11:34 PM, anyelec@gmail.com wrote:
在 1997年5月25日星期日UTC+8下午3时00分00秒,Avi Raveh写道:
Dear sir !

My name is Avi Raveh and I'm Sales Manager in Schnider Elec. Eng. L.T.D.
I'm looking for :

Inductive proximity switch.
Diameter of 18 mm tubular.
flash or/and non flash.
...

Timer Switch,24 hour timer switch,7 day timer switch ...

Considering the original post was in 1997 I suspect that Avi found what
he was looking for long ago...

John ;-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
 
El diumenge 1 de novembre de 1998 9:00:00 UTC+1, Anton Steiner va escriure:
Hi all
Have anyone an idea, which are these three ICs ?
RAY RC4194TK T8040
SH110 25 B
Plessey SW170 9C1
This ICs are from old equipment I need understand.
If you can help me, please email to Anton.Steiner@aon.at
Many thanks for help
Anton, OE2AZM

SW170 is an s.a.w. @ 30.9 Mhz frequency (Europe)
 
On Mon, 28 Apr 2014 09:14:38 -0700 (PDT), xs.ieslaserra@gmail.com
wrote:

El diumenge 1 de novembre de 1998 9:00:00 UTC+1, Anton Steiner va escriure:
Hi all
Have anyone an idea, which are these three ICs ?
RAY RC4194TK T8040
SH110 25 B
Plessey SW170 9C1
This ICs are from old equipment I need understand.
If you can help me, please email to Anton.Steiner@aon.at
Many thanks for help
Anton, OE2AZM

SW170 is an s.a.w. @ 30.9 Mhz frequency (Europe)

RC4194 is a dual tracking 200mA linear voltage regulator.
K is to66 case size with 9 leads.
pinout bottom view clockwise:
1 - -vout
2 - Radj -V to gnd [=2500x(-Vout)]
3 - Rset (feedforward) to -Vin (~75K)
4 - Gnd
5 - +Vin (connected to case)
6 - +Vout
7 - +comp (1n0 to gnd)
8 - balance (open cct for V+ = V-)
9 - -comp (1n0 to -Vin)

RL
 
On Thu, 8 May 2014, legg wrote:

On Mon, 28 Apr 2014 09:14:38 -0700 (PDT), xs.ieslaserra@gmail.com
wrote:

El diumenge 1 de novembre de 1998 9:00:00 UTC+1, Anton Steiner va escriure:
Hi all
Have anyone an idea, which are these three ICs ?
RAY RC4194TK T8040
SH110 25 B
Plessey SW170 9C1
This ICs are from old equipment I need understand.
If you can help me, please email to Anton.Steiner@aon.at
Many thanks for help
Anton, OE2AZM

SW170 is an s.a.w. @ 30.9 Mhz frequency (Europe)

RC4194 is a dual tracking 200mA linear voltage regulator.
K is to66 case size with 9 leads.
pinout bottom view clockwise:
1 - -vout
2 - Radj -V to gnd [=2500x(-Vout)]
3 - Rset (feedforward) to -Vin (~75K)
4 - Gnd
5 - +Vin (connected to case)
6 - +Vout
7 - +comp (1n0 to gnd)
8 - balance (open cct for V+ = V-)
9 - -comp (1n0 to -Vin)

RL
And it doesn't matter one bit because some idiot once again replied to an
old message, in this case from 1998.

The original poster is long gone, if he was ever here for longer than that
post. And surely he got some answers back then.

Michael
 
Am 2014-05-15 16:50, schrieb Michael Black:
On Thu, 8 May 2014, legg wrote:

On Mon, 28 Apr 2014 09:14:38 -0700 (PDT), xs.ieslaserra@gmail.com
wrote:

El diumenge 1 de novembre de 1998 9:00:00 UTC+1, Anton Steiner va
escriure:
Hi all
Have anyone an idea, which are these three ICs ?
RAY RC4194TK T8040
SH110 25 B
Plessey SW170 9C1
This ICs are from old equipment I need understand.
If you can help me, please email to Anton.Steiner@aon.at
Many thanks for help
Anton, OE2AZM

SW170 is an s.a.w. @ 30.9 Mhz frequency (Europe)

RC4194 is a dual tracking 200mA linear voltage regulator.
K is to66 case size with 9 leads.
pinout bottom view clockwise:
1 - -vout
2 - Radj -V to gnd [=2500x(-Vout)]
3 - Rset (feedforward) to -Vin (~75K)
4 - Gnd
5 - +Vin (connected to case)
6 - +Vout
7 - +comp (1n0 to gnd)
8 - balance (open cct for V+ = V-)
9 - -comp (1n0 to -Vin)

RL

And it doesn't matter one bit because some idiot once again replied to
an old message, in this case from 1998.

The original poster is long gone, if he was ever here for longer than
that post. And surely he got some answers back then.

Michael

I am still here :) But the Elements are in IC heaven :) And yes, I
have got Results.
Now it is much easier to find an element as in the 1990s, but not
successful in either case. Last week I wasted my time for searching a
2.2 ft TFT display without any result.

Anton
 
Michael Black wrote:
On Thu, 8 May 2014, legg wrote:

On Mon, 28 Apr 2014 09:14:38 -0700 (PDT), xs.ieslaserra@gmail.com
wrote:

El diumenge 1 de novembre de 1998 9:00:00 UTC+1, Anton Steiner va
escriure:
Hi all
Have anyone an idea, which are these three ICs ?
RAY RC4194TK T8040
SH110 25 B
Plessey SW170 9C1
This ICs are from old equipment I need understand.
If you can help me, please email to Anton.Steiner@aon.at
Many thanks for help
Anton, OE2AZM

SW170 is an s.a.w. @ 30.9 Mhz frequency (Europe)

RC4194 is a dual tracking 200mA linear voltage regulator.
K is to66 case size with 9 leads.
pinout bottom view clockwise:
1 - -vout
2 - Radj -V to gnd [=2500x(-Vout)]
3 - Rset (feedforward) to -Vin (~75K)
4 - Gnd
5 - +Vin (connected to case)
6 - +Vout
7 - +comp (1n0 to gnd)
8 - balance (open cct for V+ = V-)
9 - -comp (1n0 to -Vin)

RL

And it doesn't matter one bit because some idiot once again replied to
an old message, in this case from 1998.

The original poster is long gone, if he was ever here for longer than
that post. And surely he got some answers back then.

Michael
I often see messages such as the original post being many years old.
How do they get placed on the newsgroup with a current date when they
are that old?? Just curious.
 
On 05/15/2014 9:24 AM, Ken wrote:
Michael Black wrote:
On Thu, 8 May 2014, legg wrote:

On Mon, 28 Apr 2014 09:14:38 -0700 (PDT), xs.ieslaserra@gmail.com
wrote:

El diumenge 1 de novembre de 1998 9:00:00 UTC+1, Anton Steiner va
escriure:
Hi all
Have anyone an idea, which are these three ICs ?
RAY RC4194TK T8040
SH110 25 B
Plessey SW170 9C1
This ICs are from old equipment I need understand.
If you can help me, please email to Anton.Steiner@aon.at
Many thanks for help
Anton, OE2AZM

SW170 is an s.a.w. @ 30.9 Mhz frequency (Europe)

RC4194 is a dual tracking 200mA linear voltage regulator.
K is to66 case size with 9 leads.
pinout bottom view clockwise:
1 - -vout
2 - Radj -V to gnd [=2500x(-Vout)]
3 - Rset (feedforward) to -Vin (~75K)
4 - Gnd
5 - +Vin (connected to case)
6 - +Vout
7 - +comp (1n0 to gnd)
8 - balance (open cct for V+ = V-)
9 - -comp (1n0 to -Vin)

RL

And it doesn't matter one bit because some idiot once again replied to
an old message, in this case from 1998.

The original poster is long gone, if he was ever here for longer than
that post. And surely he got some answers back then.

Michael

I often see messages such as the original post being many years old. How
do they get placed on the newsgroup with a current date when they are
that old?? Just curious.

Date challenged folk? Time travellers who get confused about exactly
when they are replying? Or people who don't read entire posts before
replying to them. How they find the post is curious - I don't (won't)
use Google Groups so have no idea how posts show up there.

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
 
responding to http://www.electrondepot.com/components/--.htm , Ben wrote:
nomail wrote:



I have some Sony in-ear headphones. The lead to one earpiece has
been cut through completely and I want to rejoin the two wires
(which I will call 'conductors' to avoid confusion).

The two 'conductors' inside the lead are rather thin. And what is
more, each of the two 'conductors' is made up of something like a
dozen smaller copper wires which are woven around some very fine
threads (perhaps the threads are very fine polyester yarn). The
threads run along the lead as the core of the 'conductor'.

The wires of one of these two 'conductors' looks like bare copper
and is unoxidised so I can probably solder to it. But the OTHER
CONDUCTOR is the PROBLEM because its fine wires are enamelled.

How can I remove this enamel coating in order to be able to solder
to the fine copper wires of the 'conductor'?

Below is what I have tried.

Can you advise?

Will

This is the solution. I have a bottle of chemical wire stripper you dip the
ends of the wire into the solution and wipe the ends with a quip and they can
be soldered. GC makes the stripper. If you get a bit on your skin it burns
like fire and you have to wipe it off fast. It does a good job, I have used it
for years
 
Ben <f6ceedb9c75b52f7fcc0a55cf0cfbf5d_984@example.com> wrote:
responding to http://www.electrondepot.com/components/--.htm , Ben wrote:

This is the solution. I have a bottle of chemical wire stripper you dip the
ends of the wire into the solution and wipe the ends with a quip and they can
be soldered. GC makes the stripper. If you get a bit on your skin it burns
like fire and you have to wipe it off fast. It does a good job, I have used it
for years

Interesting, does it say what the active ingredient is?

--
__ __
#_ < |\| |< _#
 
This is the solution. I have a bottle of chemical wire stripper you dip the
ends of the wire into the solution and wipe the ends with a quip and they can
be soldered. GC makes the stripper. If you get a bit on your skin it burns
like fire and you have to wipe it off fast. It does a good job, I have used it
for years

Interesting, does it say what the active ingredient is?

http://www.hazard.com/msds/f2/bfl/bfllk.html

Methylene chloride, phenol (or cresol - methylphenol), ammonia, and
thickeners.

Reportedly off the market for some years. Paint strippers containing
methylene chloride alone, are reported not to work anywhere near as
well on enameled wire. Nobody seems to have found a really good
substitute.

One "professional-grade" solution used these days, seems to be a
molten-alkali-salt bath (mostly molten sodium hydroxide or potassium
hydroxide) followed by a water rinse and a dip in something to
deoxidize the copper. Molten lye... just makes you want to run out
and brew up a batch, doesn't it?
 
Ben wrote:
This is the solution. I have a bottle of chemical wire stripper you dip the
ends of the wire into the solution and wipe the ends with a quip and they can
be soldered. GC makes the stripper. If you get a bit on your skin it burns
like fire and you have to wipe it off fast. It does a good job, I have used it
for years

The solution is to stop replying to posts that were made in 2005.


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
 
David Platt <dplatt@coop.radagast.org> wrote:
Interesting, does it say what the active ingredient is?

http://www.hazard.com/msds/f2/bfl/bfllk.html

Methylene chloride, phenol (or cresol - methylphenol), ammonia, and
thickeners.

Reportedly off the market for some years. Paint strippers containing
methylene chloride alone, are reported not to work anywhere near as
well on enameled wire. Nobody seems to have found a really good
substitute.

Hmm, shame. Though that explains why I couldn't find the stuff searching
electronic store sites.

One "professional-grade" solution used these days, seems to be a
molten-alkali-salt bath (mostly molten sodium hydroxide or potassium
hydroxide) followed by a water rinse and a dip in something to
deoxidize the copper. Molten lye... just makes you want to run out
and brew up a batch, doesn't it?

Wikipedia says that Lye melts at 318C. I think this one's definately in
the too-hard basket, at least for my occasional use.

Thanks for the info.

--
__ __
#_ < |\| |< _#
 
Computer Nerd Kev <not@telling.you.invalid> wrote:
David Platt <dplatt@coop.radagast.org> wrote:

Interesting, does it say what the active ingredient is?

http://www.hazard.com/msds/f2/bfl/bfllk.html

Methylene chloride, phenol (or cresol - methylphenol), ammonia, and
thickeners.

I'm going to guess "thickener" was a blend of hydrofluoric acid, mercury
and asbestos powder.

>> Reportedly off the market for some years. Paint strippers containing

can't image why.

I did get a droplet of floor adhesive removing gel on my skin, and it felt
like being getting a good splash of hot solder. I'm not sure what the
stuff it it was, but it had the can't be safe solvent blend smell.
 
On 13/08/2014 13:59, Use-Author-Supplied-Address-Header@[127.1] wrote:
Dear All,
Can anyone identify this
http://www.mklab.rhul.ac.uk/~tom/photointerrupter mystery
photo-interrupter for me? It comes from a custom laboratory
instrument made at a German university, for which I have no
documentation :-{. The interrupting device is a 'spoked' code wheel.
That and the device's six pins make me fairly sure it must be an
encoder type. The closest looking devices I could find browsing RS,
Farnell, Mouser & DigiKey websites are the Honeywell HOA0901 & HOA0902
(http://sensing.honeywell.com/index.php?ci_id=50399) but their 4
sensor side pins are arranged to define a parallelogram rather than
truncated pyramid mine has. Any ideas?

Many thanks
Tom Crane

Ps. The email address in the header is just a spam-trap.

If there are no markings at all, could it be a home-brew.Easy enough to
make a casting rubber mould from a commercial device and then cast your
own variant after precisely placing the 3 opto devices and then dunking
in the resin
 
In article <lsfnfs$4pj$1@mklab.ph.rhul.ac.uk>,
<Use-Author-Supplied-Address-Header@[127.1]> wrote:

Dear All,
Can anyone identify this
http://www.mklab.rhul.ac.uk/~tom/photointerrupter mystery
photo-interrupter for me? It comes from a custom laboratory
instrument made at a German university, for which I have no
documentation :-{. The interrupting device is a 'spoked' code wheel.
That and the device's six pins make me fairly sure it must be an
encoder type. The closest looking devices I could find browsing RS,
Farnell, Mouser & DigiKey websites are the Honeywell HOA0901 & HOA0902
(http://sensing.honeywell.com/index.php?ci_id=50399) but their 4
sensor side pins are arranged to define a parallelogram rather than
truncated pyramid mine has. Any ideas?

Many thanks
Tom Crane

Ps. The email address in the header is just a spam-trap.

Interrupters as single component are a fairly new thing. You probably
won't find an exact match.

You might be able to operate without the case - just naked parts on the
PCB - if there's little stray light.

--
Astraweb posts are filtered as spam
 
In article <lsfnfs$4pj$1@mklab.ph.rhul.ac.uk>,
<Use-Author-Supplied-Address-Header@[127.1]> wrote:

Dear All,
Can anyone identify this
http://www.mklab.rhul.ac.uk/~tom/photointerrupter mystery
photo-interrupter for me? It comes from a custom laboratory
instrument made at a German university, for which I have no
documentation :-{. The interrupting device is a 'spoked' code wheel.
That and the device's six pins make me fairly sure it must be an
encoder type.

Probably is a two-phase pair. If you're more interested in just getting
the instrument running again, rather than finding an exact replacement,
you can probably find some useful parts in an older (non-optical)
computer mouse.

Isaac
 
On 08/13/2014 5:59 AM, Use-Author-Supplied-Address-Header@[127.1] wrote:
Dear All,
Can anyone identify this
http://www.mklab.rhul.ac.uk/~tom/photointerrupter mystery
photo-interrupter for me? It comes from a custom laboratory
instrument made at a German university, for which I have no
documentation :-{. The interrupting device is a 'spoked' code wheel.
That and the device's six pins make me fairly sure it must be an
encoder type. The closest looking devices I could find browsing RS,
Farnell, Mouser & DigiKey websites are the Honeywell HOA0901 & HOA0902
(http://sensing.honeywell.com/index.php?ci_id=50399) but their 4
sensor side pins are arranged to define a parallelogram rather than
truncated pyramid mine has. Any ideas?

Many thanks
Tom Crane

Ps. The email address in the header is just a spam-trap.

At a guess I'd say that has two opto-receivers in the four pin end. Then
it can do direction with only one opto module. Your selection part at
Mouser looks like a good option to replace it.

You may have to modify the PCB slightly to allow the device to fit, and
figure out the wiring.

I have a bunch of old optos as used in early video games, but I only
have a three pin device which is a single opto transistor AFAIK.

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
 
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> wrote:
: On 08/13/2014 5:59 AM, Use-Author-Supplied-Address-Header@[127.1] wrote:
: > Dear All,
: > Can anyone identify this
: > http://www.mklab.rhul.ac.uk/~tom/photointerrupter mystery
: > photo-interrupter for me? It comes from a custom laboratory
: > instrument made at a German university, for which I have no
: > documentation :-{. The interrupting device is a 'spoked' code wheel.
: > That and the device's six pins make me fairly sure it must be an
: > encoder type. The closest looking devices I could find browsing RS,
: > Farnell, Mouser & DigiKey websites are the Honeywell HOA0901 & HOA0902
: > (http://sensing.honeywell.com/index.php?ci_id=50399) but their 4
: > sensor side pins are arranged to define a parallelogram rather than
: > truncated pyramid mine has. Any ideas?

My thanks to all who followed-up. I tried an HOA0901 which proved to be
workable stand in.

Tom.

Ps. The email address in the header is just a spam-trap.
--
Tom Crane, Dept. Physics, Royal Holloway, University of London, Egham Hill,
Egham, Surrey, TW20 0EX, England.
Email: T dot Crane at rhul dot ac dot uk
 
Hi Dave,

It's probably a snubbing capacitor, used to absorb the energy produced
from back-EMF voltages when the relay is de-energized. It also cuts down
on harmonic RF energy, which causes interference on AM radios.

David

---
DaveC wrote:
I have a 12V SPST cube relay in my junque box. The diagram molded into the
relayšs housing includes a component connected in parallel with the coil
which looks suspiciously like a resistor.

Itšs not a back-emf diode: I connected the relay coil using both polarities
(using a current-limited power supply) and the same current draw is measured.


What is the purpose of this resistor?

Thanks,
Dave

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
 
On 10/17/2014 8:17 PM, mroberds@att.net wrote:
Followups set to sci.electronics.components .

In sci.electronics.components DaveC <invalid@invalid.net> wrote:
I have a 12V SPST cube relay in my junque box. The diagram molded into
the relay's housing includes a component connected in parallel with
the coil which looks suspiciously like a resistor. [...]

What is the purpose of this resistor?

It suppresses the inductive spike when the relay turns off. See page
3 of the Tyco application note
http://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=srchrtrv&DocNm=Automotive_Relay_Applications&DocType=CS&DocLang=EN
or
http://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=srchrtrv&DocNm=Automotive_Relay_Applications&DocType=CS&DocLang=EN
or even
http://is.gd/uGsYcA

I knew you could get automotive relays with nothing, a diode, or a
resistor across the coil, but I'd never heard before that any of these
shorten the life of the relay. I wonder what the mechanism is... does
it damage the coil winding insulation, or does it try to move the
armature a little, or what?

Matt Roberds

Why can a diode across the coil shorten relay life?
http://web.archive.org/web/20110104003731/http://relays.tycoelectronics.com/appnotes/app_pdfs/13c3264.pdf
 

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