alternator circuit question

in olive oil till golden brown, remove.
Add the garlic and onions and cook down a bit.
Add some lemon juice and some zest, then de-glaze with stock.
Add a little cornstarch (dissolved in cold water) to the sauce.
You are just about there, Pour the sauce over the cutlets,
top with parsley, lemon slices and cracked pepper.
Serve with spinach salad, macaroni and cheese (homemade) and iced tea...



Spaghetti with Real Italian Meatballs

If you don?t have an expendable bambino on hand,
you can use a pound of ground pork instead.
The secret to great meatballs, is to use very lean meat.

1 lb. ground flesh; human or pork
3 lb. ground beef
1 cup finely chopped onions
7 - 12 cloves garlic
1 cup seasoned bread crumbs
˝ cup milk, 2 eggs
Oregano
basil
salt
pepper
Italian seasoning, etc.
Tomato gravy (see index)
Fresh or at least freshly cooked spaghetti or other pasta

Mix the ground meats together in a large bowl,
then mix each of the other ingredients.
Make balls about the size of a baby?s fist
(there should be one lying around for reference).
Bake at 400°for about 25 minutes -
or you could fry them in olive oil.
Place the meatballs in the tomato gravy, and simmer for several hours.
Serve on spaghetti.
Ac
 
"Jon G." <jon8338@peoplepc.com> wrote in message
news:3v5zd.908$qf5.677@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
The fellow who gave me this advice could rattle off several
voltage regulator models, but he was in it to "close the hood"
on more than a supposed fixit. He knows enough to be dangerous,
and is convincing enough to come across as someone who knows
what he's talking about. I'd advise anyone to steer clear of
him. Below is his reply to my previous post:

His reply will work! You , on the other hand , do not work!







=====


On Fri, 19 Nov 2004, Jon G. wrote:

I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't
charge the
battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and
there's
nothing wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but it
still won't
charge. I checked the fuseable link from the alternator to
the battery,
and there is continuity. Therefore, it must be the computer.


The regulator is a part of the Single Board Engine Controller, yes.

there are 4 connections on the alternator


L1: direct to battery, positive
L2: direct to battery, negative
c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.


What you are calling "logic" wires are the field wires.

I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an
external voltage regulator.


etc

The way you plan to do it will not work.

Here is a fix that *will* work, without replacing the engine
computer and
without causing any additional problems:

First, pick one of the following regulators:

Regular normal electromechanical regulator:
NAPA Echlin VR32

Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof mount:
NAPA Echlin VR34

Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof
mount and
convenient external voltage adjustment screw:
NAPA Echlin VR35, Standard-Bluestreak VR106

Transistorized regulator with no moving parts (no adjusting screw):
Standard-Bluestreak VR101, Wells VR706 (the wells item is very
inexpensive; it works but Wells doesn't make my favourite stuff)

Waterproof potted IC regulator with no moving parts (no
adjusting screw):
NAPA Echlin VR1001, Standard-Bluestreak VR128


Any of these regulators will have two terminals on it, one
marked "IGN"
and the other marked "FLD". (the VR1001 and VR128 have the "fld"
terminal
on the end of a short wire lead). The alternator gets the
original C1 and
C2 wires removed from its two field terminals (right next to
each other,
small studs with nuts retaining the two flag terminals).

The regulator IGN terminal gets 12V via the ignition switch, and
the "FLD"
terminal gets connected via a wire to one (either) of the field
terminals
on the alternator. The other field terminal on the alternator gets
connected via a wire to ground. Run a ground wire -- 16ga is
plenty --
between the regulator base and the battery negative terminal,
and mount
the regulator such that it won't rock 'n' roll around. At this
point, your
charging system will once again work fine. If you got the adjustable
regulator, set it for 14.2v across the battery with the engine fully
warmed up and ambient temperature above 50F.

If your "Check Engine" light comes on, put a resistor across the two
original field wires C1 and C2 before securing these wires such
that they
can't ground out or get caught in any moving parts.

Close the hood; you're done.
 

Welcome to EDABoard.com

Sponsor

Back
Top