alternator circuit question

[Jon G.]

I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't charge
the battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and
there's nothing wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but
it still won't charge. I checked the fuseable link from the
alternator to the battery, and there is continuity. Therefore,
it must be the computer.

there are 4 connections on the alternator

L1: direct to battery, positive
L2: direct to battery, negative
c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.

I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an
external voltage regulator.

What must the voltage (and current), to the logic inputs c1 & c2
be to do so?

I have in mind to run a potentiometer between L1 and c1, and
adjust it until the alternator kicks on.

The schematic shows that c1 goes to the coil of a transformer in
the alternator, which then goes to one of the diodes (an SCR?)

 

[Sam Steele]

Blue supplies ignition switched battery voltage to the field circuit and the
green wire is the one used by the computer to ground and field the circuit.
You can splice in an external voltage regulator, being sure to ground it
against wherever you decide to mount it.
"maxpower" <gjbeasley@comcast.net> wrote in message
news4udnTKlpLgm3wDcRVn-qQ@comcast.com...

the regulator is internal to the PCM, not external. been awhile since i
worked on this vehicle so i cant tell you the circuit numbers,
but......you
have the 2 field wires, i believe they are both green wires...... with the
key on, car not running you should have battery voltage to one of those
wires, remember which one it is, now start the car, the other wire is
going
to the PCM, if you ground that wire it will full field the alterator, that
will tell you if the alt is putting out... if it does start charging when
you do that..trace that wire back to the PCM and make sure it is a
completed
circuit, assuming it is and the alt is not charging, replace the pcm,
thats
a 100amp alt. i would not tamper or modify it in any way
Glenn Beasley
Chrysler Tech
"Jon G." <jon8338@peoplepc.com> wrote in message
news:bTand.3200$Qh3.682@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't charge
the battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and
there's nothing wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but
it still won't charge. I checked the fuseable link from the
alternator to the battery, and there is continuity. Therefore,
it must be the computer.

there are 4 connections on the alternator

L1: direct to battery, positive
L2: direct to battery, negative
c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.

I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an
external voltage regulator.

What must the voltage (and current), to the logic inputs c1 & c2
be to do so?

I have in mind to run a potentiometer between L1 and c1, and
adjust it until the alternator kicks on.

The schematic shows that c1 goes to the coil of a transformer in
the alternator, which then goes to one of the diodes (an SCR?)

 

[maxpower]

the reason why i ask is because the emiision test center cares here in MD.
I no all about those irrelvant codes, its hard to tell the emission test
center that the check engine lite is on becuase of a P/s switch is faulty,
but they dot care, they go by the guidelines, lite is on vehicle fails
"Daniel J. Stern" <dastern@127.0.0.1> wrote in message
newsine.GSO.4.58.0411191407350.10472@alumni.engin.umich.edu...

On Fri, 19 Nov 2004, maxpower wrote:

will that still set a fault for alt not switching properly?

Some SBEC calibrations won't care that an external regulator is doing the
job; others will set a fault. Of those that set a fault, some (mostly
'92-up) will illuminate the MIL. This can be worked around as previously
mentioned by putting a resistor across the vehicle's two original field
wires (which have been disconnected from the alternator). And really,
that's the only thing that matters, is that this repair be made in such a
manner as not to have the Check Engine light on. If it sets a fault code,
who cares? There are plenty of cases where an irrelevant fault is stored.
Cars without A/C routinely set a 33 ("Open or Short in A/C clutch
circuit"). K-car derivatives that have had the torque converter lockup
disconnected in accordance with the TSB on part-throttle surge and lug
will set a 37 ("Open or short in TCC circuit").

The important thing is that the charging system's operation will be
reliably restored without causing new problems, and at a much lower cost
than replacing the computer.

DS

 

[exxos]

"maxpower" <gjbeasley@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:uP-dnS4tafzl-wPcRVn-gA@comcast.com...

i would check out the circuit before cutting and adding resistors and
regulators, try to keep eveything working the way it was designed, many a
times i have found the 8 way connectors loose/corroded causing a no charge
condition. just a simple back probe test to the PCM

assuming you replied to my msg, the lamp was part of those car diagnostic
"features", I think the idea was that if the regulator shorted out it would
light the lamp on the dash... only mine had a I/O short (at some point in
its life) so the lamp never lite, but yet the battery was charging to to
19V... It also doubled up to raise the regulator voltage to about 13V....so
much for technology..... good idea in theory though ;-)

chris

"exxos" <exxos@home.co.uk> wrote in message
news:419e6297$0$1821$cc9e4d1f@news-text.dial.pipex.com...

"Jon G." <jon8338@peoplepc.com> wrote in message
news:bTand.3200$Qh3.682@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't charge the
battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and there's
nothing
wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but it still won't charge. I
checked the fuseable link from the alternator to the battery, and there
is
continuity. Therefore, it must be the computer.

there are 4 connections on the alternator

L1: direct to battery, positive
L2: direct to battery, negative
c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.

I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an external
voltage regulator.

What must the voltage (and current), to the logic inputs c1 & c2 be to
do
so?

I have in mind to run a potentiometer between L1 and c1, and adjust it
until the alternator kicks on.

The schematic shows that c1 goes to the coil of a transformer in the
alternator, which then goes to one of the diodes (an SCR?)


I had a problem with one of my cars in the past with the alternator not
charging, what this turned out to be was the ground pin on the regulator
was
going via a lamp on the dashboard, thus giveing a slight volt raise on
the
ground so you got maybe 13V from the 12V regulator, though it took me a
long
time to work out why my battery wouldn't charge, turns out the bulb went
on
the dashboard, no ground on the regulator, alternator didn't charge the
battery, thus car wouldn't start.... strange how a small item such as a
dashboard light can stop the car from starting ;-)

Chris

 

[exxos]

"Jim Thompson" <thegreatone@example.com> wrote in message
news:lfusp0dui6381l0jh56huo6u90h37u3no7@4ax.com...

On Fri, 19 Nov 2004 22:26:37 -0000, "exxos" <exxos@home.co.uk> wrote:


"maxpower" <gjbeasley@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:uP-dnS4tafzl-wPcRVn-gA@comcast.com...
i would check out the circuit before cutting and adding resistors and
regulators, try to keep eveything working the way it was designed, many
a
times i have found the 8 way connectors loose/corroded causing a no
charge
condition. just a simple back probe test to the PCM


assuming you replied to my msg, the lamp was part of those car diagnostic
"features", I think the idea was that if the regulator shorted out it
would
light the lamp on the dash... only mine had a I/O short (at some point in
its life) so the lamp never lite, but yet the battery was charging to to
19V... It also doubled up to raise the regulator voltage to about
13V....so
much for technology..... good idea in theory though ;-)

chris


[snip]

I think you'll find that the lamp was looking at the neutral
(mid-point of the "Y") terminal of the alternator, which is where most
idiot lights get their information... actually quite good at
indicating faults _before_ the battery goes dead.

It was in the ground, I actually grounded the point instead of going via the
lamp, battery only got around 11V on it though at least it proved the point.
It was actually a 12V regulator, I measued it with a DMM at the time and
even at high revs it only ever hit 12.5V, so it needed a higher ground ref,
hence via the dash lamp. I would never have thought they would do such
tricks like that on cars, ive seen it countless times on electronics
equipment, though was supprised to see the same trick on a car.

Chris

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

 

[Jim Thompson]

On Fri, 19 Nov 2004 23:33:13 -0000, "exxos" <exxos@home.co.uk> wrote:

"Jim Thompson" <thegreatone@example.com> wrote in message
news:lfusp0dui6381l0jh56huo6u90h37u3no7@4ax.com...
On Fri, 19 Nov 2004 22:26:37 -0000, "exxos" <exxos@home.co.uk> wrote:


"maxpower" <gjbeasley@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:uP-dnS4tafzl-wPcRVn-gA@comcast.com...
i would check out the circuit before cutting and adding resistors and
regulators, try to keep eveything working the way it was designed, many
a
times i have found the 8 way connectors loose/corroded causing a no
charge
condition. just a simple back probe test to the PCM


assuming you replied to my msg, the lamp was part of those car diagnostic
"features", I think the idea was that if the regulator shorted out it
would
light the lamp on the dash... only mine had a I/O short (at some point in
its life) so the lamp never lite, but yet the battery was charging to to
19V... It also doubled up to raise the regulator voltage to about
13V....so
much for technology..... good idea in theory though ;-)

chris


[snip]

I think you'll find that the lamp was looking at the neutral
(mid-point of the "Y") terminal of the alternator, which is where most
idiot lights get their information... actually quite good at
indicating faults _before_ the battery goes dead.


It was in the ground, I actually grounded the point instead of going via the
lamp, battery only got around 11V on it though at least it proved the point.
It was actually a 12V regulator, I measued it with a DMM at the time and
even at high revs it only ever hit 12.5V, so it needed a higher ground ref,
hence via the dash lamp. I would never have thought they would do such
tricks like that on cars, ive seen it countless times on electronics
equipment, though was supprised to see the same trick on a car.

Chris

What brand of car? Yugo ?

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

 

[Jon G.]

Hi D.S.,

We rigged it up like you said, and the thing works! I got a
voltage regulator at Advance Auto from off your list, wired
everything, and now there's 14 volts of charge on the battery.

Thank you for your help. It saved me from having to get another
computer.

Regards,

Jon

Daniel J. Stern wrote:

On Fri, 19 Nov 2004, exxos wrote:


I had a problem with one of my cars in the past with the alternator not
charging, what this turned out to be was the ground pin on the regulator
was going via a lamp on the dashboard, thus giveing a slight volt raise
on the ground so you got maybe 13V from the 12V regulator, though it
took me a long time to work out why my battery wouldn't charge, turns
out the bulb went on the dashboard, no ground on the regulator,
alternator didn't charge the battery, thus car wouldn't start....


Fun story, but not applicable to the original poster's '91 Acclaim -- not
even a little bit. Also, "12v" automotive voltage regulators have set
points of between 13.8 and 15.1 volts. A regulator with a set point of 12v
would not charge the battery.

 

[Jon G.]

This idea of installing an external voltage regulator to bypass
a faulty computer, doesn't work. I put one on and it charged at
14 volts for about a day, then it jumped to 18 volts. I tried a
different brand voltage regulator, and it did the same. The
battery is boiling and smells like sulfur, the high beams went
out, and I'm in the hole for 2 voltage regulators that work like
junk.

I have a 7 watt 1.2 ohm ceramic resistor out of a TV set. It
can only handle 2 amps. If I put it in series between the
regulator and the alternator field, it should drop the voltage
to the field by 3 volts. However, I think I need a heavier duty
resistor.

Jon

Jon G. wrote:

I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't charge the
battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and there's
nothing wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but it still won't
charge. I checked the fuseable link from the alternator to the battery,
and there is continuity. Therefore, it must be the computer.

there are 4 connections on the alternator

L1: direct to battery, positive
L2: direct to battery, negative
c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.

I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an external
voltage regulator.

What must the voltage (and current), to the logic inputs c1 & c2 be to
do so?

I have in mind to run a potentiometer between L1 and c1, and adjust it
until the alternator kicks on.

The schematic shows that c1 goes to the coil of a transformer in the
alternator, which then goes to one of the diodes (an SCR?)

 

[Jim Thompson]

Jon, Surf back a few weeks, this problem has been addressed recently.


On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 00:33:04 GMT, "Jon G." <jon8338@peoplepc.com>
wrote:

This idea of installing an external voltage regulator to bypass
a faulty computer, doesn't work. I put one on and it charged at
14 volts for about a day, then it jumped to 18 volts. I tried a
different brand voltage regulator, and it did the same. The
battery is boiling and smells like sulfur, the high beams went
out, and I'm in the hole for 2 voltage regulators that work like
junk.

I have a 7 watt 1.2 ohm ceramic resistor out of a TV set. It
can only handle 2 amps. If I put it in series between the
regulator and the alternator field, it should drop the voltage
to the field by 3 volts. However, I think I need a heavier duty
resistor.

Jon

Jon G. wrote:

I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't charge the
battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and there's
nothing wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but it still won't
charge. I checked the fuseable link from the alternator to the battery,
and there is continuity. Therefore, it must be the computer.

there are 4 connections on the alternator

L1: direct to battery, positive
L2: direct to battery, negative
c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.

I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an external
voltage regulator.

What must the voltage (and current), to the logic inputs c1 & c2 be to
do so?

I have in mind to run a potentiometer between L1 and c1, and adjust it
until the alternator kicks on.

The schematic shows that c1 goes to the coil of a transformer in the
alternator, which then goes to one of the diodes (an SCR?)

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

 

[Daniel J. Stern]

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004, Jon G. wrote:

This idea of installing an external voltage regulator to bypass
a faulty computer, doesn't work.

Works great if you do it right.

I put one on and it charged at 14 volts for about a day, then it jumped
to 18 volts. I tried a different brand voltage regulator, and it did
the same.

Sounds a lot like you did it wrong. I bet I know exactly which step you
skipped 'cause you figured it was unnecessary. But there's a reason it was
written specifically into the procedure!

I have a 7 watt 1.2 ohm ceramic resistor out of a TV set.

Quit fuckin' around with resistors. Put the external regulator in
correctly and it'll do just fine for you, as it's done just fine for many
others before you and will do fine for many others after you.

 

[Steve]

Jon G. wrote:

This idea of installing an external voltage regulator to bypass a faulty
computer, doesn't work. I put one on and it charged at 14 volts for
about a day, then it jumped to 18 volts.

Of course it WORKS, but only if a bad regulator was the original problem.

You've most likely got a bad alternator rotor (shorting to ground) which
causes an over-charge condition. The regulator is on the GROUND side of
the rotor, so if the rotor is shorted to ground the regulator has
absolutely zero effect on the charge current.

 

[Jon G.]

The fellow who gave me this advice could rattle off several
voltage regulator models, but he was in it to "close the hood"
on more than a supposed fixit. He knows enough to be dangerous,
and is convincing enough to come across as someone who knows
what he's talking about. I'd advise anyone to steer clear of
him. Below is his reply to my previous post:

=====


On Fri, 19 Nov 2004, Jon G. wrote:

I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't
charge the
battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and
there's
nothing wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but it
still won't
charge. I checked the fuseable link from the alternator to
the battery,
and there is continuity. Therefore, it must be the computer.

The regulator is a part of the Single Board Engine Controller, yes.

there are 4 connections on the alternator

L1: direct to battery, positive
L2: direct to battery, negative
c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.

What you are calling "logic" wires are the field wires.

I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an
external voltage regulator.

<etc>

The way you plan to do it will not work.

Here is a fix that *will* work, without replacing the engine
computer and
without causing any additional problems:

First, pick one of the following regulators:

Regular normal electromechanical regulator:
NAPA Echlin VR32

Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof mount:
NAPA Echlin VR34

Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof
mount and
convenient external voltage adjustment screw:
NAPA Echlin VR35, Standard-Bluestreak VR106

Transistorized regulator with no moving parts (no adjusting screw):
Standard-Bluestreak VR101, Wells VR706 (the wells item is very
inexpensive; it works but Wells doesn't make my favourite stuff)

Waterproof potted IC regulator with no moving parts (no
adjusting screw):
NAPA Echlin VR1001, Standard-Bluestreak VR128


Any of these regulators will have two terminals on it, one
marked "IGN"
and the other marked "FLD". (the VR1001 and VR128 have the "fld"
terminal
on the end of a short wire lead). The alternator gets the
original C1 and
C2 wires removed from its two field terminals (right next to
each other,
small studs with nuts retaining the two flag terminals).

The regulator IGN terminal gets 12V via the ignition switch, and
the "FLD"
terminal gets connected via a wire to one (either) of the field
terminals
on the alternator. The other field terminal on the alternator gets
connected via a wire to ground. Run a ground wire -- 16ga is
plenty --
between the regulator base and the battery negative terminal,
and mount
the regulator such that it won't rock 'n' roll around. At this
point, your
charging system will once again work fine. If you got the adjustable
regulator, set it for 14.2v across the battery with the engine fully
warmed up and ambient temperature above 50F.

If your "Check Engine" light comes on, put a resistor across the two
original field wires C1 and C2 before securing these wires such
that they
can't ground out or get caught in any moving parts.

Close the hood; you're done.

 

[Daniel J. Stern]

On Sat, 25 Dec 2004, Jon G. wrote:

The fellow who gave me this advice could rattle off several voltage
regulator models, but he was in it to "close the hood" on more than a
supposed fixit. He knows enough to be dangerous, and is convincing
enough to come across as someone who knows what he's talking about.
I'd advise anyone to steer clear of him. Below is his reply to my
previous post:

Sure, fine, whatever, Jon. It didn't work for you 'cause you failed to
diagnose your problem correctly, but rather than do so, you'd rather futz
around with TV resistors and other bubblegum-and-duct-tape fixes.

I've been here in this forum for well over a decade, and have owned a
great many Mopars, and -- here's the fun part, Jon -- the external
voltage regulator fix has worked for a great many people who took the
time to diagnose their systems correctly and do the work right.

Your laziness is nobody's fault but your own.

Toodles,

DS

 

[Eightupman]

I remember this post. Did you in fact follow his advice, and it caused
problems...or did you follow his advice incorrectly and it caused problems??
I don't understand why you claim....a SCAM??? Did he in fact take money
from your wallet?? Did you send him some cash in thanks for his advice??

I'm confused. 98% of the people here either 1.) have a problem that needs
to be corrected, or 2.) give advice as to how to fix it. Arm chair
trooubleshooting is not that easy, and I do not pass out information that I
am unsure of. It is up to YOU whether or not the advice you take is sound.
Not following the whole scam thing......

Sounds to me DJS is not to blame for giving out advice on a forum that will
in fact do nothing to benefit him, but you for taking it, or taking it
wrong.

Here's something you could try. Unfasten all of the electrical terminals in
the charging system one by one, and then lick each one before reinstalling
them. This will mysteriouly solve all your problems..........

Or you could just change the computer.

jest my $.02

Eightupman


"Jon G." <jon8338@peoplepc.com> wrote in message
news:3v5zd.908$qf5.677@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...

The fellow who gave me this advice could rattle off several voltage
regulator models, but he was in it to "close the hood" on more than a
supposed fixit. He knows enough to be dangerous, and is convincing enough
to come across as someone who knows what he's talking about. I'd advise
anyone to steer clear of him. Below is his reply to my previous post:

=====


On Fri, 19 Nov 2004, Jon G. wrote:

I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't
charge the
battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and
there's
nothing wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but it
still won't
charge. I checked the fuseable link from the alternator to
the battery,
and there is continuity. Therefore, it must be the computer.


The regulator is a part of the Single Board Engine Controller, yes.

there are 4 connections on the alternator


L1: direct to battery, positive
L2: direct to battery, negative
c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.


What you are calling "logic" wires are the field wires.

I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an
external voltage regulator.


etc

The way you plan to do it will not work.

Here is a fix that *will* work, without replacing the engine computer and
without causing any additional problems:

First, pick one of the following regulators:

Regular normal electromechanical regulator:
NAPA Echlin VR32

Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof mount:
NAPA Echlin VR34

Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof mount and
convenient external voltage adjustment screw:
NAPA Echlin VR35, Standard-Bluestreak VR106

Transistorized regulator with no moving parts (no adjusting screw):
Standard-Bluestreak VR101, Wells VR706 (the wells item is very
inexpensive; it works but Wells doesn't make my favourite stuff)

Waterproof potted IC regulator with no moving parts (no adjusting screw):
NAPA Echlin VR1001, Standard-Bluestreak VR128


Any of these regulators will have two terminals on it, one marked "IGN"
and the other marked "FLD". (the VR1001 and VR128 have the "fld" terminal
on the end of a short wire lead). The alternator gets the original C1 and
C2 wires removed from its two field terminals (right next to each other,
small studs with nuts retaining the two flag terminals).

The regulator IGN terminal gets 12V via the ignition switch, and the "FLD"
terminal gets connected via a wire to one (either) of the field terminals
on the alternator. The other field terminal on the alternator gets
connected via a wire to ground. Run a ground wire -- 16ga is plenty --
between the regulator base and the battery negative terminal, and mount
the regulator such that it won't rock 'n' roll around. At this point, your
charging system will once again work fine. If you got the adjustable
regulator, set it for 14.2v across the battery with the engine fully
warmed up and ambient temperature above 50F.

If your "Check Engine" light comes on, put a resistor across the two
original field wires C1 and C2 before securing these wires such that they
can't ground out or get caught in any moving parts.

Close the hood; you're done.

 

[maxpower]

Always try to steer away from modifications and seek out the problem. By
modifing an electrical system to work may be ok, but you never no where the
broken part of the circuit is, it may be a loose or corroded wire that
could cause other problems, But how can you bad mouth/insult someone on
here that is trying to help you out, the people here can not see the
vehicle, they try to give assisitance due to past experience or because
thats the profession of the person,
Maybe Mom needs to place a Haynes manual under your tree? any way Merry Xmas
Glenn Beasley
Chysler Tech
"Jon G." <jon8338@peoplepc.com> wrote in message
news:3v5zd.908$qf5.677@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...

The fellow who gave me this advice could rattle off several
voltage regulator models, but he was in it to "close the hood"
on more than a supposed fixit. He knows enough to be dangerous,
and is convincing enough to come across as someone who knows
what he's talking about. I'd advise anyone to steer clear of
him. Below is his reply to my previous post:

=====


On Fri, 19 Nov 2004, Jon G. wrote:

I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't
charge the
battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and
there's
nothing wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but it
still won't
charge. I checked the fuseable link from the alternator to
the battery,
and there is continuity. Therefore, it must be the computer.


The regulator is a part of the Single Board Engine Controller, yes.

there are 4 connections on the alternator


L1: direct to battery, positive
L2: direct to battery, negative
c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.


What you are calling "logic" wires are the field wires.

I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an
external voltage regulator.


etc

The way you plan to do it will not work.

Here is a fix that *will* work, without replacing the engine
computer and
without causing any additional problems:

First, pick one of the following regulators:

Regular normal electromechanical regulator:
NAPA Echlin VR32

Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof mount:
NAPA Echlin VR34

Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof
mount and
convenient external voltage adjustment screw:
NAPA Echlin VR35, Standard-Bluestreak VR106

Transistorized regulator with no moving parts (no adjusting screw):
Standard-Bluestreak VR101, Wells VR706 (the wells item is very
inexpensive; it works but Wells doesn't make my favourite stuff)

Waterproof potted IC regulator with no moving parts (no
adjusting screw):
NAPA Echlin VR1001, Standard-Bluestreak VR128


Any of these regulators will have two terminals on it, one
marked "IGN"
and the other marked "FLD". (the VR1001 and VR128 have the "fld"
terminal
on the end of a short wire lead). The alternator gets the
original C1 and
C2 wires removed from its two field terminals (right next to
each other,
small studs with nuts retaining the two flag terminals).

The regulator IGN terminal gets 12V via the ignition switch, and
the "FLD"
terminal gets connected via a wire to one (either) of the field
terminals
on the alternator. The other field terminal on the alternator gets
connected via a wire to ground. Run a ground wire -- 16ga is
plenty --
between the regulator base and the battery negative terminal,
and mount
the regulator such that it won't rock 'n' roll around. At this
point, your
charging system will once again work fine. If you got the adjustable
regulator, set it for 14.2v across the battery with the engine fully
warmed up and ambient temperature above 50F.

If your "Check Engine" light comes on, put a resistor across the two
original field wires C1 and C2 before securing these wires such
that they
can't ground out or get caught in any moving parts.

Close the hood; you're done.

 

[aarcuda69062]

In article <3v5zd.908$qf5.677@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net>,
"Jon G." <jon8338@peoplepc.com> wrote:

The fellow who gave me this advice could rattle off several
voltage regulator models, but he was in it to "close the hood"
on more than a supposed fixit. He knows enough to be dangerous,
and is convincing enough to come across as someone who knows
what he's talking about. I'd advise anyone to steer clear of
him. Below is his reply to my previous post:

=====

More like; you haven't a clue how that charging system works.

I've been doing that repair since before your car was new, and it
-does- work. It's saved many people hundreds of dollars in
avoiding having to replace Power Modules, SMECs and SBECs because
one little internal circuit gave up the ghost.

 

[Jim Thompson]

On Sat, 25 Dec 2004 03:53:35 GMT, "Jon G." <jon8338@peoplepc.com>
wrote:

The fellow who gave me this advice could rattle off several
voltage regulator models, but he was in it to "close the hood"
on more than a supposed fixit. He knows enough to be dangerous,
and is convincing enough to come across as someone who knows
what he's talking about. I'd advise anyone to steer clear of
him. Below is his reply to my previous post:

=====

[snip]

You ignorance far exceeds the reference standard... you are hereby
presented with a Burridge Award with Gold-Leaf Cluster, and a special
addition for today, since it's Christmas, PLONK!

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

 

[Daniel J. Stern]

brown,
about 6 minutes on each side.



Shish Kababes

As old as the hills, this technique has employed seafood, beef, pork, lamb,
poultry, and vegetables; just about anything can be grilled, and young humans
are no exception!

High quality marinade (Teriyaki and garlic perhaps)
1 inch cubes of tender meat, preferably from the nursery
Onions
bell peppers
Wooden or metal skewers

Marinate the meat overnight.
Get the grill good and hot while placing meat, vegetables, and
fruit such as pineapples or cherries on the skewers.
Don?t be afraid to use a variety of meats.
Grill to medium rare,
serve with garlic cous-cous and sautéed asparagus.
Coffee and sherbet for desert then walnuts, cheese, and port.
Cigars for the gentlemen (and ladies if they so desire)!



Crock-Pot Crack Baby

When the quivering, hopelessly addicted crack baby succumbs to death,
get him immediately butchered and into the crock-pot, so that any
remaining toxins will not be fatal. But don?t cook it too long,
because like Blowfish, there is a perfect medium between the poisonous
and the stimulating. Though it may not have the s

 

[Daniel J. Stern]

together
then poke holes in top.
Return to oven and bake for 30 minutes, or until pie crust is golden brown.



Sudden Infant Death Soup

SIDS: delicious in winter, comparable to old fashioned Beef and Vegetable Soup.
Its free, you can sell the crib, baby clothes, toys, stroller... and so easy to
procure if such a lucky find is at hand (just pick him up from the crib and
he?s good to go)!

SIDS victim, cleaned
˝ cup cooking oil
Carrots
onions
broccoli
whole cabbage
fresh green beans
potato
turnip
celery
tomato
˝ stick butter
1 cup cooked pasta (macaroni, shells, etc.)

Remove as much meat as possible, cube, and brown in hot oil.
Add a little water, season, then add the carcass.
Simmer for half an hour keeping the stock thick.
Remove the carcass and add the vegetables slowly to the stock,
so that it remains boiling the whole time.
Cover the pot and simmer till vegetables are tender
(2 hours approximately).
Continue seasoning to taste.
Before serving, add butter and pasta,
serve piping with hot bread and butter.



Offspring Rolls

Similar to Vietnamese style fried rolls, they have

 

[maxpower]

cold water) to the sauce.
You are just about there, Pour the sauce over the cutlets,
top with parsley, lemon slices and cracked pepper.
Serve with spinach salad, macaroni and cheese (homemade) and iced tea...



Spaghetti with Real Italian Meatballs

If you don?t have an expendable bambino on hand,
you can use a pound of ground pork instead.
The secret to great meatballs, is to use very lean meat.

1 lb. ground flesh; human or pork
3 lb. ground beef
1 cup finely chopped onions
7 - 12 cloves garlic
1 cup seasoned bread crumbs
˝ cup milk, 2 eggs
Oregano
basil
salt
pepper
Italian seasoning, etc.
Tomato gravy (see index)
Fresh or at least freshly cooked spaghetti or other pasta

Mix the ground meats together in a large bowl,
then mix each of the other ingredients.
Make balls about the size of a baby?s fist
(there should be one lying around for reference).
Bake at 400°for about 25 minutes -
or you could fry them in olive oil.
Place the meatballs in the tomato gravy, and simmer for several hours.
Serve on spaghetti.
Accompany with green salad, garlic bread and red wine.



Newborn Parmesan

This classic Sicilian cuisine can easily be turned into Eggplant Parmesan
If you are planning a vegetarian meal. Or you could just as well use veal -
after all, you have to be careful - Sicilians are touchy about their young
family members...

6 newborn or veal cutlets
Tomato gravy (see index)
4 cups mozzarella, 1cup parmesan, 1cup romano
Seasoned bread crumbs mixed with
parm