94 Caddilac O2 sensors

J

JURB6006

Guest
Hi all;

This 94 Deville w/ 4.9 L is behaving more strangely than expected.
(bet you never heard it put that way before)
It rolled out of DeLorean's recently with a new rear O2 sensor. Symptom was
check engine would light after running awhile. Problem comes back, so he calls
me. Ran the codes and found a P013, "right O2 sensor not read" (<that is not a
misprint on my part), now this is a front wheel drive so if it has three O2
sensors the ones on the engine would be left and right, right ?, and the left
has been replaced. So we changed the "right" O2 sensor but the problem comes
back.

Now the codes read P013 "history" and P052 which is PCM reset. OK that seems
logical but why is the light on then ? There is no drivability problem, which
is usually normal for a bad O2 sensor, but it lights the light. Is it possible
it has the third sensor behind the cat and DeLorean changed the wrong one ?

Another thing I was hoping someone who knows this stuff could clear up is that
when I went back to the book, I noticed it says that this system doesn't have P
codes, it has E codes for the engine etc. Now this is a Chilton's, but it's all
we got on short notice. I know they make mistakes, could they have interpolated
the two charts ? I notice then that the P013 on that chart indicates a "heated
rear O2 sensor not ready" (<now ready, not read). If someone has the correct
info I would greatly appreciate it. (the front one is not heated)

Anyway, if they did indeed switch those charts, that means it is under warranty
by DeLorean's. They might balk at the fact that someone else changed something
else on it, but they really can't, they are still responsible for that part.

Now I've read notices in manuals not to even connect an ohmmeter or voltmeter
to an O2 sensor. Is this true ? I have not done it, and I'm also wondering how
you directly test these things. I'm not stupid and I know of course it would
entail running the engine up to temp, get it into closed loop if possible, then
connect the tester and through restricing air or causing a vacuum leak somehow
you have to be able to see something.

If the element is really so flimsy current wise, how do they get the signal to
the ECM or PCM in non-shielded cables ? How could some of them use engine
ground (single wire) without wreaking hovoc on the computer ? You would think
lead dress would be critical, but sometimes you see them right next to the
spark plug wires, what gives ? Taking a voltage reading might fry it ? I find
that a bit hard to believe.

I understand impedance, reactance etc., seems to me the ECM would have a heck
of alot of noise to deal with. If that's really the way it is, I'm suprised it
works at all.

Anything on this would be greatly appreciated, thanx in advance and thanx for
reading.

JURB
 
Jeff,
Try removing the battery cables and connecting them together, this will
drain the caps in the computer and reset it. If that doesn't work you
will have to reset it with a code reader. I'm doing this to my car
tonight and if it doesn't work my little brother will scan it and reset it.

JURB6006 wrote:
Hi all;

This 94 Deville w/ 4.9 L is behaving more strangely than expected.
(bet you never heard it put that way before)
It rolled out of DeLorean's recently with a new rear O2 sensor. Symptom was
check engine would light after running awhile. Problem comes back, so he calls
me. Ran the codes and found a P013, "right O2 sensor not read" (<that is not a
misprint on my part), now this is a front wheel drive so if it has three O2
sensors the ones on the engine would be left and right, right ?, and the left
has been replaced. So we changed the "right" O2 sensor but the problem comes
back.

Now the codes read P013 "history" and P052 which is PCM reset. OK that seems
logical but why is the light on then ? There is no drivability problem, which
is usually normal for a bad O2 sensor, but it lights the light. Is it possible
it has the third sensor behind the cat and DeLorean changed the wrong one ?
 
"firstname lastname" <firstname.lastname@grc.nasa.gov> wrote in message
news:3F168EEA.2090606@grc.nasa.gov...
Jeff,
Try removing the battery cables and connecting them together, this will
drain the caps in the computer and reset it. If that doesn't work you
will have to reset it with a code reader. I'm doing this to my car
tonight and if it doesn't work my little brother will scan it and reset
it.

JURB6006 wrote:
Hi all;

This 94 Deville w/ 4.9 L is behaving more strangely than expected.
(bet you never heard it put that way before)
It rolled out of DeLorean's recently with a new rear O2 sensor. Symptom
was
check engine would light after running awhile. Problem comes back, so he
calls
me. Ran the codes and found a P013, "right O2 sensor not read" (<that is
not a
misprint on my part), now this is a front wheel drive so if it has three
O2
sensors the ones on the engine would be left and right, right ?, and the
left
has been replaced. So we changed the "right" O2 sensor but the problem
comes
back.

Now the codes read P013 "history" and P052 which is PCM reset. OK that
seems
logical but why is the light on then ? There is no drivability problem,
which
is usually normal for a bad O2 sensor, but it lights the light. Is it
possible
it has the third sensor behind the cat and DeLorean changed the wrong
one ?


My '94 Cad keeps saying "Service ride control". What the hell is that, &
how do I reset it?
 
Thanx:

I got the picture on that, but then do they go into left and right even on a
transverse front wheel drive ? How else do you tell ? Pops went to the library
today and seems to have come to the same conclusion, that it means the one
<u>behind</u> the cat. Now the question is : if so, how did an authorized
Caddilac servicenter make that mistake ?

The only thing I can think of is that a certain type of exhaust leak is causing
this
? At this point:

1. certain exhaust leaks actually can pull in fresh air, if this is the case
would it drop the output to zero letting the PCM think it's not working ? I'm
not sure right now whether the voltage drops or climbs with increased O2. I'm
pretty sure the output is zero when it's not ready. Can this happen ? Nothing
would be <u>taking</u> O2 out of the exhaust.

2. if the car was burning rich and the cat IS doing it's job thus bringing O2
levels way down, and if the O2 sensor output drops at this time, could it
trigger that response as well ?

Thanx again for your time.

JURB
 
O2 sensors have to be above a minimum temp to produce a usable output
voltage. Many vehicles use heated O2 sensors to accomplish this. 3 and 4
wire sensors have heaters. If the heater relay sticks or fails to provide
power to the heating element the O2 sensor won't work and the FI ECU will
recognize the abnormal signal and set a code.

The other possibility is that if indeed the O2 sensor that was replaced, and
is on the outlet side of the converter, and it was replaced, is working
correctly, and the code comes back, this indicates the converter isn't
working. This is the purpose of '96 OBD2 regulations, putting the sensor
behind the converter to monitor performance of the converter.

Paul Shovestul


"JURB6006" &lt;jurb6006@aol.com&gt; wrote in message
news:20030717200109.27688.00000066@mb-m23.aol.com...
Thanx:

I got the picture on that, but then do they go into left and right even on
a
transverse front wheel drive ? How else do you tell ? Pops went to the
library
today and seems to have come to the same conclusion, that it means the one
u&gt;behind</u> the cat. Now the question is : if so, how did an authorized
Caddilac servicenter make that mistake ?

The only thing I can think of is that a certain type of exhaust leak is
causing
this
? At this point:

1. certain exhaust leaks actually can pull in fresh air, if this is the
case
would it drop the output to zero letting the PCM think it's not working ?
I'm
not sure right now whether the voltage drops or climbs with increased O2.
I'm
pretty sure the output is zero when it's not ready. Can this happen ?
Nothing
would be <u>taking</u> O2 out of the exhaust.

2. if the car was burning rich and the cat IS doing it's job thus bringing
O2
levels way down, and if the O2 sensor output drops at this time, could it
trigger that response as well ?

Thanx again for your time.

JURB
 
The ONLY redeeming value to the Cadillac ECM setup is that you DON'T need
special diagnostics tools to work on it. It's all built in. You do
everything through the HVAC controller. It's been a while since I worked on
one, but I do recall that key ON - depress 'Off' &amp; 'Warmer' buttons
simultaneously. Then release. The codes will be displayed. Then it will
break into a different diagnostic mode. I think you depress the throttle to
break into sensor data??? From there, you can actually observe live sensor
data by pressing the right buttons. Perhaps some internet research on
"Cadillac DFI Diagnostics" may be helpful. If not, maybe the purchase of
the correct service manual may help. Book = $100. 1 hour Cadillac
Driveability Tech time = $100. Know what I mean?

The more accurate info you can give to the mechanic working on the car, the
quicker ( and less expensive ) the repair will be. To be able to observe
the live O2 data, you will be able to quickly determine if it is working
properly when the light is on. That info could prove very valuable if
you're dealing with a stubborn, intermittent problem. Remember - the L&amp;R
sensors ideally should cycle from around .2 volts to around .8 volts. If
they stay fixed, something is wrong. Low volts = high oxygen = lean
condition.

BTW - IIRC, your car only has two sensors - L &amp; R viewed as if you are
sitting on top of the transmission with the belt end of the engine away from
you.

Good luck....

JURB6006 wrote in message &lt;20030717200109.27688.00000066@mb-m23.aol.com&gt;...
Thanx:

I got the picture on that, but then do they go into left and right even on
a
transverse front wheel drive ? How else do you tell ? Pops went to the
library
today and seems to have come to the same conclusion, that it means the one
u&gt;behind</u> the cat. Now the question is : if so, how did an authorized
Caddilac servicenter make that mistake ?

The only thing I can think of is that a certain type of exhaust leak is
causing
this
? At this point:

1. certain exhaust leaks actually can pull in fresh air, if this is the
case
would it drop the output to zero letting the PCM think it's not working ?
I'm
not sure right now whether the voltage drops or climbs with increased O2.
I'm
pretty sure the output is zero when it's not ready. Can this happen ?
Nothing
would be <u>taking</u> O2 out of the exhaust.

2. if the car was burning rich and the cat IS doing it's job thus bringing
O2
levels way down, and if the O2 sensor output drops at this time, could it
trigger that response as well ?

Thanx again for your time.

JURB
 
Hi Jeff!

Left and right on a transversely mounted engine would most likely be
left and right when looking at the engine from the flywheel/converter
end. I.e. just as how it would be with a longitudinal engine.

There is no problem using a high impedance voltmeter to check the
output voltage from the sensor. They apparently do not not like to
have to voltage/current fed into them, although it seems that at least
Ford ECU:s use a pullup on the input.

You will see the voltage swing between 0V (lean) and about 0.8V
(rich), and they need to be up to temp before they emit any voltage.

I can't help you with the codes though.

Cheers,
Thomas

Ps: The Sony CRT projector still works fine :)

--
Real life: Thomas Törnblom Email: Thomas.Tornblom@Hax.SE
Snail mail: HB Hax Phone: +46 18 290 290
Banvallsvägen 14 Fax: +46 18 290 291
S - 754 40 Uppsala, Sweden Cellular: +46 70 261 1372
 

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