J
Jan Panteltje
Guest
On a sunny day (Sat, 04 Oct 2014 10:01:29 -0700) it happened Jeff Liebermann
<jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in <jv603al0qicp0omco5so5emb9mdhptvn45@4ax.com>:
You should really not rant so much.. its bad for your health..
I was contemplating this antenna:
http://www.produktinfo.conrad.com/datenblaetter/975000-999999/995897-an-01-en-TP_LINK_PARABOLANTENNE_24DBI_ANT2424B.pdf
Frequency Range 2.4GHz ~ 2.5GHz
Impedance 50
Gain 24dBi
VSWR 1.5
Horizontal Beamwidth
Vertical Beamwidth
14°
10° U
F/B Ratio 30dB
Polarization Vertical or Horizontal TL
Maximum Input Power 100W <----------------------------------------------
Connector N Female 24
Application Outdoor
Mount Style Pole Mount / Wall Mount
Mechanical Specifications
Antenna Dimension 600×1000 mm
Weight 3.5 +/-0.15 KG
Mounting Mast Diameter Ř30~Ř50 mm
Rated Wind Velocity 216 Km/h
I have a frquency versus gain graph of it somehere, its still pretty good at 2.4.
Interesting, seems more or less the same idea.
One thing I noticed is that sometimes you get echo...
Here if I am with the porto on the south side of the house I trigger a repeater on the north side,
and on the north side of the house triggers the repeater in the south,
logic Mr Spock,?? maybe the walls reflect..
Yes same here, I scrapped an ebay 12V adaptor,
the seller showed one with a picture of FCC and CE markings.,
what I received had neither, and even managed to create interference bands in
a screened video link on the otehr side of the house.
no radio reception possible to 20 MHz or so...
So scrapped it, and used the box to build my radiation logger in:
http://panteltje.com/panteltje/pic/gm_pic2/
Agent was a good newsreader, but no Linux version,
so I wrote NewsFleX, back in those 199X days:
http://panteltje.com/panteltje/newsflex/index.html
the GUI is inspired on Free Agent, originally it was called Secret Agent ...
Yes but the downlink is at 10 GHz, so my normal dish with a modifed LNB should do.
I found some interesting things, been studying modifiying standard LNBs,
I have a plan
(more than one actually).
I managed to transmit a 45 minute or some mpeg2 movie yesterday, until things stopped working.
Late last night scoping I found the flatcable that connects the raspberry to the modulator board had intermittent
dataline 0 (last pin on cable), plugging and unplugging the connector many times broke the flatcable inside.
I just managed to get that connector of and put it back on again (no spare at hand).
Did you know Chinese flat cable looks thinner (the copper inside) than the normal ones?
I mean I have some USB cables with hair thin strands, but they do it to flatcable too!
Did some VCO stability (drift) tests yesterday, build a second stabilized supply for the VCO only,
These things have a 10 to 20 minutes or so warmup even with their own supply.
But it will be in a PLL, it still works without PLL! Pretty good.
The other thing I want to test if I can build a 90 degrees (old fashined way) audio phaseshift and
that way transmit SSB (driving I and Q with 90 degrees out of of phase audio),
as then I can use their narrow band transponder with a resolution (step) of 256 Hz (prescaler),
and work voice via that sat.
That would be the old 'phasing method'.
Hey I have to 2016 to get it working.
Also ordered a 2 W 2.4 GHz amp from ebay, that will be to drive the big one, and great for local testing.
Hope that works, sort of assuming those WiFi amps can do QAM and must be linear in a way.
<jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in <jv603al0qicp0omco5so5emb9mdhptvn45@4ax.com>:
cooking or melting baluns. That I was ranting about this time is that
putting a 75 watt transmitter, into an undersized antenna with serious
sidelobes, in a metropolitan location, is going to create interference
for other users of the frequencies. Much depends on how much effort
you put into preventing interference. Simply claiming that it won't
happen and there's nobody nearby to complain is insufficient.
As for the balun, most baluns exhibit about 0.5dB loss. The typical
barbeque grill dish antenna has a balun between the dipole elements
and the nearby N connector. It's made for receive, so there's no
problem with an additional 0.5dB loss in the balun. However, for
transmit at 75 watts and a properly matched system, the balun will
dissipate 11% of your power or about 8 watts. 8 watts through a very
small PCB is going to burn the PCB. There's no easy way around the
loss problem if you use a balun, which is why I suggested a waveguide,
horn, cantenna, or patch feed, which eliminate the balun.
You should really not rant so much.. its bad for your health..
I was contemplating this antenna:
http://www.produktinfo.conrad.com/datenblaetter/975000-999999/995897-an-01-en-TP_LINK_PARABOLANTENNE_24DBI_ANT2424B.pdf
Frequency Range 2.4GHz ~ 2.5GHz
Impedance 50
Gain 24dBi
VSWR 1.5
Horizontal Beamwidth
Vertical Beamwidth
14°
10° U
F/B Ratio 30dB
Polarization Vertical or Horizontal TL
Maximum Input Power 100W <----------------------------------------------
Connector N Female 24
Application Outdoor
Mount Style Pole Mount / Wall Mount
Mechanical Specifications
Antenna Dimension 600×1000 mm
Weight 3.5 +/-0.15 KG
Mounting Mast Diameter Ř30~Ř50 mm
Rated Wind Velocity 216 Km/h
I have a frquency versus gain graph of it somehere, its still pretty good at 2.4.
We have a great working coversity network.
where the transmitters are in sync via GPS,
I can reach the whole NW and NE side of the country with my porto.
http://www.coversity.nl/in.html
look a the map.
There is even an android ap that can show which repeater I am on / is active at the time.
Of course it is cheating, as data goes via cable, but it sure unites a lot of hams, it is a busy channel.
Very nicely done. We have various linked repeater systems. I don't
see much use for them, so I don't participate. However, one local
system that has my attention is a voter and simulcast system on
440MHz:
http://www.wb6ece.org
Interesting, seems more or less the same idea.
One thing I noticed is that sometimes you get echo...
Here if I am with the porto on the south side of the house I trigger a repeater on the north side,
and on the north side of the house triggers the repeater in the south,
logic Mr Spock,?? maybe the walls reflect..
What is a problem here is internet over mains wires, if I hold my RF detector next to the mains it goes wild.
You could buy those little ethernet plug in boxes, not sure who has those in the neighborhood.
There goes your short wave.
You might try some kind of low pass filter where the power enters the
house. Maybe a big ferrite bead. It won't do anything for radiation
from the power lines, but it will keep the RF from entering the house.
He have plenty of HomePlug devices in operation. In California, there
are only a few BPL/PLC installations. Locally, the major sources of
HF RF noise are:
Solar inverter installations.
Switching power supplies and chargers.
LED lights.
Computer noise.
I have all the above in my house. When I want to operate HF, I have
to turn off almost the entire house.
Yes same here, I scrapped an ebay 12V adaptor,
the seller showed one with a picture of FCC and CE markings.,
what I received had neither, and even managed to create interference bands in
a screened video link on the otehr side of the house.
no radio reception possible to 20 MHz or so...
So scrapped it, and used the box to build my radiation logger in:
http://panteltje.com/panteltje/pic/gm_pic2/
Was evaluating some uplink designs today, here is one:
(...)
Hope U use a real newsreader... guggle will likely fold it
Forte Agent displayed it nicely, but wrapped it into an unreadable
mess when I tried to quote it for a reply. I could put ">" symbols at
the beginning of each line, but it's too much work right now.
Agent was a good newsreader, but no Linux version,
so I wrote NewsFleX, back in those 199X days:
http://panteltje.com/panteltje/newsflex/index.html
the GUI is inspired on Free Agent, originally it was called Secret Agent ...
Nice transmitter idea. I haven't worked out the filter requirements
to prevent mixer spurs and unwanted harmonics from being transmitted.
Designing a transmitter like that is actually fairly easy. Finding
frequencies that don't create interference is difficult. You'll
probably need some bandpass filters somewhere.
The problem with satcomm (I am NOT an expert on this) is not the
transmitter. It's the receiver. The downlink is on X-band (10GHz)
which will work with TVRO Ku band components but usually requires a
wall of test equipment to get things right. This is typical:
http://www.uhf-satcom.com/xband_hw/
Yes but the downlink is at 10 GHz, so my normal dish with a modifed LNB should do.
I found some interesting things, been studying modifiying standard LNBs,
I have a plan
Maybe or maybe not, I also ordered some ceramic SAW 400MHz filters, 7.8 MHz wide on ebay, those SAWs cost next to nothing.
This method above needs no steep filters, the U2790 only produces 1 sideband, no carriers,
look up the chip.
The 473 is easily filtered out in the 2.4 GHz filter.
For this I have - or have ordered most parts,
and there is still space on the board, I had the U2790 on board and removed it, it will be back.
This is one of 3 topologies I came up with, and the first one I will test.
Good luck.
I managed to transmit a 45 minute or some mpeg2 movie yesterday, until things stopped working.
Late last night scoping I found the flatcable that connects the raspberry to the modulator board had intermittent
dataline 0 (last pin on cable), plugging and unplugging the connector many times broke the flatcable inside.
I just managed to get that connector of and put it back on again (no spare at hand).
Did you know Chinese flat cable looks thinner (the copper inside) than the normal ones?
I mean I have some USB cables with hair thin strands, but they do it to flatcable too!
Did some VCO stability (drift) tests yesterday, build a second stabilized supply for the VCO only,
These things have a 10 to 20 minutes or so warmup even with their own supply.
But it will be in a PLL, it still works without PLL! Pretty good.
The other thing I want to test if I can build a 90 degrees (old fashined way) audio phaseshift and
that way transmit SSB (driving I and Q with 90 degrees out of of phase audio),
as then I can use their narrow band transponder with a resolution (step) of 256 Hz (prescaler),
and work voice via that sat.
That would be the old 'phasing method'.
Hey I have to 2016 to get it working.
Also ordered a 2 W 2.4 GHz amp from ebay, that will be to drive the big one, and great for local testing.
Hope that works, sort of assuming those WiFi amps can do QAM and must be linear in a way.