SMD Fuse ID...

A

ABLE1

Guest
Hello,

I have a circuit board that has a blown Fuse. The Fuse is a very
small SMD device that is mounted to the board. The device is a color
green if that matters with a capital \"B\" on the surface.

This is just a curiosity question for my own edification and
maybe for the benefit others.

Is there some chart that would be available to give the ability
to ID the value of this fuse and its parameters??

Then my other comment has a different tone.

Personally I think fuses of this design are a PITA. Yes, it is
smaller and makes for a \"clean look\" but when one might have been
blown by a possible spike on the line voltage in order to save the
rest of the board then the WHOLE board need to be replaced.

So then what is the point other than making more money.

If it seems that I might sound a bit frazzed, that would be correct.

I just don\'t understand the designing of this technology type
especially at a input voltage of 120VAC.

I am sure I will be enlightened to the whys and wherefores.
I am prepared for the best and worst.

Thank you very much in advance.

Les
 
On Sat, 31 Oct 2020 12:26:25 -0400, ABLE1 <somewhere@nowhere.net>
wrote:

Hello,

I have a circuit board that has a blown Fuse. The Fuse is a very
small SMD device that is mounted to the board. The device is a color
green if that matters with a capital \"B\" on the surface.

This is just a curiosity question for my own edification and
maybe for the benefit others.

Is there some chart that would be available to give the ability
to ID the value of this fuse and its parameters??

Then my other comment has a different tone.

Personally I think fuses of this design are a PITA. Yes, it is
smaller and makes for a \"clean look\" but when one might have been
blown by a possible spike on the line voltage in order to save the
rest of the board then the WHOLE board need to be replaced.

So then what is the point other than making more money.

If it seems that I might sound a bit frazzed, that would be correct.

I just don\'t understand the designing of this technology type
especially at a input voltage of 120VAC.

I am sure I will be enlightened to the whys and wherefores.
I am prepared for the best and worst.

Thank you very much in advance.

Les
Because they are cheap and can be wave soldered and last but not least
screw the buyer.


KenW
 
ABLE1 wrote:

I have a circuit board that has a blown Fuse.  The Fuse is a very
small SMD device that is mounted to the board.  The device is a color
green if that matters with a capital \"B\" on the surface.

B probably indicates 125mA

check the size \"1206\" (3 x 1.5mm)

<http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1796765.pdf>
 
On Sat, 31 Oct 2020 12:26:25 -0400, ABLE1 <somewhere@nowhere.net>
wrote:

Hello,

I have a circuit board that has a blown Fuse. The Fuse is a very
small SMD device that is mounted to the board. The device is a color
green if that matters with a capital \"B\" on the surface.

This is just a curiosity question for my own edification and
maybe for the benefit others.

Is there some chart that would be available to give the ability
to ID the value of this fuse and its parameters??

Then my other comment has a different tone.

Personally I think fuses of this design are a PITA. Yes, it is
smaller and makes for a \"clean look\" but when one might have been
blown by a possible spike on the line voltage in order to save the
rest of the board then the WHOLE board need to be replaced.

So then what is the point other than making more money.

If it seems that I might sound a bit frazzed, that would be correct.

I just don\'t understand the designing of this technology type
especially at a input voltage of 120VAC.

I am sure I will be enlightened to the whys and wherefores.
I am prepared for the best and worst.

Thank you very much in advance.

Les


Littelfuse smd \'B\' is 0.125A



RL

Matsuo KAH 1005/0402
P 0.20
Q 0.25
R 0.315
S 0.40
T 0.50
U 0.63

V 0.80
1 1.00
W 1.25
X 1.60
2 2.00
Y 2.50


littelfuse 1206 very fast acting ROHS
0466.125 .125 B
0466.200 .200 C
0466.250 .250 D
0466.375 .375 E
0466.500 .500 F
0466.750 .750 G
0466 001. 1.00 H
0466 1.25 1.25 J
0466 01.5 1.50 K
0466 1.75 1.75 L
0466 002. 2.00 N
0466 02.5 2.50 O
0466 003. 3.00 P
0466 004. 4.00 S
0466 005. 5.00 T

littelfuse 1206 very fast acting
0433.125 .125 B
0433.200 .200 C
0433.250 .250 D
0433.375 .375 E
0433.500 .50 F
0433.600 .60 .6
0433.750 .75 G
0433.800 .80 .8
0433 001. 1.0 H
0433 1.25 1.25 J
0433 01.5 1.5 K
0433 1.75 1.75 L
0433 002. 2.0 N
0433 02.5 2.5 O
0433 003. 3.0 P
0433 004. 4.0 S
0433 005. 5.0 T

Littelfuse 1206 fast acting ROHS
429.125 0.125 FB
429.200 0.200 FC
429.250 0.250 FD
429.375 0.375 FE
429.500 0.500 FF
429.750 0.75 FG
429 001 1.00 FH
429 007 7.0 FU
429 007L 7.0 7

1206 delay
0430.500 0.5 TF
0430 001. 1.0 TH
0430 01.5 1.5 TK
0430 002. 2.0 TN
0430 003. 3.0 TP

0603 ultrafast
0434.250 .250 D
0434.375 .375 E
0434.500 .500 F
0434.680 .680 X
0434.750 .750 G
0434 001. 1.00 H
0434 1.25 1.25 J
0434 01.5 1.50 K
0434 1.75 1.75 L
0434 002. 2.00 N
0434 02.5 2.50 O
0434 003. 3.00 P
0434 03.5 3.50 R
0434 004. 4.00 S
0434 005. 5.00 T

Littelfuse 1206 fast
0437.250 .250 D
0437.375 .375 E
0437.500 .500 F
0437.750 .750 G
0437001. 1.00 H
04371.25 1.25 J
043701.5 1.50 K
04371.75 1.75 L
0437002. 2.00 N
043702.5 2.50 O
0437003. 3.00 P
043703.5 3.50 R
0437004. 4.00 S
0437005. 5.00 T
0437007. 7.00 W
0437008. 8.00 X

Littelfuse 0603 ultrafast
0467.250 .25 D
0467.375 .375 E
0467.500 .500 F
0467.750 .750 G
0467 001. 1.00 H
0467 1.25 1.25 J
0467 01.5 1.50 K
0467 1.75 1.75 L
0467 002. 2.00 N
0467 02.5 2.50 O
0467 003. 3.00 P
0467 03.5 3.50 R
0467 004. 4.00 S
0467 005. 5.00 T

littelfuse 1206 slow blow ROhs
0468 001. 1.00 TH
0468 01.5 1.50 TK
0468 002. 2.00 TN
0468 003. 3.00 TP

Littelfuse 1206 delay ROHS
0468.500 TF
001. TH
01.5 TK
002. TN
02.5 TO
003. TP

Littelfuse 0402 very fast
0435.250 .25 +
0435.375 .375 :
0435.500 .5 o
0435.750 .75 %
0435 001. 1 l
0435 1.25 1.25 8
0435 01.5 1.5 blank
0435 1.75 1.75 X
0435 002. 2 O

vishay 0603
500 mA F
630 mA CT
750 mA G
800 mA CV
1.0 A H
1.25 A J
1.5 A K
1.6 A EF
1.75 A L
2.0 A N
2.5 A O
3.0 A P
3.15 A
3.5 A R
4.0 A S
5.0 A T

vishay 0805
500 mA F
630 mA CT
750 mA G
800 mA CV
1.0 A H
1.25 A J
1.5 A K
1.6 A
1.75 A
2.0 A N
2.5 A O
3.0 A P
3.15 A EL
3.5 A R
4.0 A S
5.0 A T

vishay 1206
500 mA F
630 mA CT
750 mA G
800 mA CV
1.0 A H
1.25 A J
1.5 A K
1.6 A EF
1.75 A L
2.0 A N
2.5 A O
3.0 A P
3.15 A EL
3.5 A R
4.0 A S
5.0 A T
6.3 A ET
.........................

0468 littelfuse 1206 slow
001. H
1.25 J
01.5 K
002. N
02.5 O
003. P
03.5 R
004. S
005. T
006. U
007. W
008. X

SF bournes 1206
F = 0.50
K = 0.80
L = 1.00
M = 1.25
P = 1.50
S = 2.00
T = 2.50
3 = 3.00
W = 4.00
Y = 5.00
Z = 7.00

CCH bussman 1206
CC12H1A 1 H
CC12H1.5A 1.5 K
CC12H2A 2 N
CC12H2.5A 2.5 O
CC12H3A 3 P
CC12H3.5A 3.5 R
CC12H4A 4 S
CC12H4.5A 4.5 X
CC12H5A 5 T

2410 TE 1206
2410SFV0.50FM C
2410SFV0.63FM S 0.6
2410SFV0.75FM/125-2 D 0.8
2410SFV1.00FM/125-2 E 1.0
2410SFV1.25FM/125-2 F 1.3
2410SFV1.50FM/125-2 G 1.5
2410SFV2.00FM/125-2 I 2.0
2410SFV2.50FM/125-2 J 2.5
2410SFV3.00FM/125-2 K 3.0
2410SFV3.15FM/125-2 V 3.2
2410SFV3.50FM/125-2 L 3.5
2410SFV4.00FM/125-2 M 4.0
2410SFV5.00FM/125-2 N 5.0
2410SFV6.30FM/125-2 O 6.3
2410SFV7.00FM/125-2 P 7.0
2410SFV8.00FM/125-2 R 8.0
2410SFV10.0FM/125-2 Q 10.0
2410SFV12.0FM/065-2 X 12.0
2410SFV15.0FM/065-2 Y 15
2410SFV20.0FM/065-2 Z 20
 
On 10/31/2020 12:33 PM, KenW wrote:
Because they are cheap and can be wave soldered and last but not least
screw the buyer.


KenW

KenW,

Well that is a very honest response.

Thank You!!


Les
 
On Saturday, October 31, 2020 at 12:50:34 PM UTC-4, ABLE1 wrote:
On 10/31/2020 12:33 PM, KenW wrote:
Because they are cheap and can be wave soldered and last but not least
screw the buyer.


KenW


KenW,

Well that is a very honest response.

Thank You!!


Les

Yeah, but the average buyer these days demands low prices. Price is probably the defining feature when the Joe Consumer goes shopping.

In defense of smd fuses, they don\'t fail for no reason (except those stupid ceramic ones with the bonded metal caps), so if Joe Consumer doesn\'t recognize it as a fuse, he can\'t put a foil gum wrapper around it.

Other than a socketed fuse, they are easier to change than any other type of through the hole mounted fuse.
 
On Saturday, October 31, 2020 at 12:48:46 PM UTC-5, John-Del wrote:
On Saturday, October 31, 2020 at 12:50:34 PM UTC-4, ABLE1 wrote:
On 10/31/2020 12:33 PM, KenW wrote:
Because they are cheap and can be wave soldered and last but not least
screw the buyer.


KenW


KenW,

Well that is a very honest response.

Thank You!!


Les

Yeah, but the average buyer these days demands low prices. Price is probably the defining feature when the Joe Consumer goes shopping.

In defense of smd fuses, they don\'t fail for no reason (except those stupid ceramic ones with the bonded metal caps), so if Joe Consumer doesn\'t recognize it as a fuse, he can\'t put a foil gum wrapper around it.

Other than a socketed fuse, they are easier to change than any other type of through the hole mounted fuse.

You could do better by not using silly names like, \"Joe consumer\". Use \"average consumer\" instead. Good work though.
 
On 11/1/20 11:29 AM, Edward Hernandez wrote:
> You could do better by not using silly names like, \"Joe consumer\".

Piss off charger boy.
Nobody gives two shits about your opinions.


--
\"I am a river to my people.\"
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
 
On Sat, 31 Oct 2020 12:26:25 -0400, ABLE1 <somewhere@nowhere.net>
wrote:

Is there some chart that would be available to give the ability
to ID the value of this fuse and its parameters??

<https://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/electronics/datasheets/fuses/littelfuse_fuse_466_datasheet.pdf.pdf>
The B is 0.125A. See the \"Part Marking System\" section on the last
page.

I just don\'t understand the designing of this technology type
especially at a input voltage of 120VAC.

Regulatory compliance for adequate fire and safety protection requires
a fuse. UL doesn\'t care if it is user accessible or buried under a
pile of wires. If you want the UL sticker, it must have a fuse of
some sorts.

>I am sure I will be enlightened to the whys and wherefores.

One must suffer before enlightenment. At least that how all the
fables, parables, anecdotes, and internet explanations are commonly
inscribed.

>I am prepared for the best and worst.

Are you prepared to pay for the best? (The worst you already have in
the form of an SMT fuse). For a little more $$$, the manufacturer
might supply a PPTC resettable fuse:
<https://www.littelfuse.com/products/polyswitch-resettable-ptcs.aspx>
Nothing to replace when it blows. Just give it time to cool down.

Or, the manufacturer could add an SMD size fuse holder:
<https://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/electronics/datasheets/fuses/littelfuse_fuse_154_154t_154l_154tl_datasheet.pdf.pdf>
<https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/fuses/139?s=N4IgjCBcoLQCxVAYygMwIYBsDOBTANCAPZQDa4ArAEwDMAHCALqEAOALlCCAL69A>
However, these are NOT cheap and will not work with a 1206 size fuse.

Or, the manufacturer could switch to a much larger cartridge fuse,
which offer a PCB mount fuse holder.

>Thank you very much in advance.

Y\'er welcome.

Incidentally, I\'m more irritated with non-resettable thermal fuses
used on tranformers and kitchen appliances. These fuses are usually
buried under a layer of difficult to remove Kapton tape.


--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
I think you do. Are you able to chase me? Don\'t get out of breath.
 
On 11/1/2020 5:38 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
Are you prepared to pay for the best? (The worst you already have in
the form of an SMT fuse). For a little more $$$, the manufacturer
might supply a PPTC resettable fuse:
https://www.littelfuse.com/products/polyswitch-resettable-ptcs.aspx
Nothing to replace when it blows. Just give it time to cool down.

So Jeff, let me ask you.

If I would replace or jumper the B = RXEF010 resetable fuse the board
would work, meet code, and almost never have to concern myself with
it in the future??

Please correct me if I am wrong.

Thanks,

Les
 
On 11/1/2020 10:49 PM, ABLE1 wrote:
On 11/1/2020 5:38 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
Are you prepared to pay for the best?  (The worst you already have in
the form of an SMT fuse).  For a little more $$$, the manufacturer
might supply a PPTC resettable fuse:
https://www.littelfuse.com/products/polyswitch-resettable-ptcs.aspx
Nothing to replace when it blows.  Just give it time to cool down.


So Jeff, let me ask you.

If I would replace or jumper the B = RXEF010  resetable fuse the board
would work, meet code, and almost never have to concern myself with
it in the future??

Please correct me if I am wrong.

Thanks,

Les

Sorry my bad. I forgot to look at the voltage spec.

Maybe a 250R120-R2 - 250R would do the trick.

Please advise.

Thanks!!

Les
 
On Sunday, November 1, 2020 at 2:06:46 PM UTC-6, Fox\'s Mercantile wrote:
On 11/1/20 11:29 AM, Edward Hernandez wrote:
You could do better by not using silly names like, \"Joe consumer\".

Piss off charger boy.
Nobody gives two shits about your opinions.


--
\"I am a river to my people.\"
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com

Hey guess what... I finally clicked on your little website. It did not disappoint! HHhahahah. You are a gem.
 
On Sun, 1 Nov 2020 20:25:14 -0800 (PST) the anus of Edward Hernandez <dtgamer99@gmail.com> sputtered:
Hey guess what... I finally clicked on your little website. It did not
disappoint! HHhahahah. You are a gem.

You were given useful advice at the beginning. The fact that you are too
much of a child to realize it was useful advice is not our fault.
 
On Sun, 1 Nov 2020 22:49:59 -0500, ABLE1 <somewhere@nowhere.net>
wrote:

On 11/1/2020 5:38 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
Are you prepared to pay for the best? (The worst you already have in
the form of an SMT fuse). For a little more $$$, the manufacturer
might supply a PPTC resettable fuse:
https://www.littelfuse.com/products/polyswitch-resettable-ptcs.aspx
Nothing to replace when it blows. Just give it time to cool down.


So Jeff, let me ask you.

If I would replace or jumper the B = RXEF010 resetable fuse the board
would work, meet code, and almost never have to concern myself with
it in the future??

Please correct me if I am wrong.

Thanks,

Les

Would you prefer to replace the fuse with the same type and rating,
or throw the thing in the garbage, next time ?

RL
 
On 11/2/2020 7:51 AM, legg wrote:
On Sun, 1 Nov 2020 22:49:59 -0500, ABLE1 <somewhere@nowhere.net
wrote:

On 11/1/2020 5:38 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
Are you prepared to pay for the best? (The worst you already have in
the form of an SMT fuse). For a little more $$$, the manufacturer
might supply a PPTC resettable fuse:
https://www.littelfuse.com/products/polyswitch-resettable-ptcs.aspx
Nothing to replace when it blows. Just give it time to cool down.


So Jeff, let me ask you.

If I would replace or jumper the B = RXEF010 resetable fuse the board
would work, meet code, and almost never have to concern myself with
it in the future??

Please correct me if I am wrong.

Thanks,

Les

Would you prefer to replace the fuse with the same type and rating,
or throw the thing in the garbage, next time ?

RL

Now that I know there might be a resetable fuse available.

What I was thinking was to replace the fuse with a \"resetable\" as
suggested by Jeff. A resetable that had a compatible rating and
was available at a quantity of maybe 10 each or so. That way,
I would have some available for other boards in the future should
I need any. It is simple, as opposed to buying a whole new board
for $25.00 + Tariff + Tax + Shipping + etc. etc. for the cost of
a $0.80?? part.

Les
 
On Sunday, November 1, 2020 at 2:06:46 PM UTC-6, Fox\'s Mercantile wrote:
On 11/1/20 11:29 AM, Edward Hernandez wrote:
You could do better by not using silly names like, \"Joe consumer\".
Piss off charger boy.
Nobody gives two shits about your opinions.


--
\"I am a river to my people.\"
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com

Look at such a great effort all for me! Thanks comic book boy. lol.
 
On Mon, 2 Nov 2020 08:35:04 -0500, ABLE1 <somewhere@nowhere.net>
wrote:

On 11/2/2020 7:51 AM, legg wrote:
On Sun, 1 Nov 2020 22:49:59 -0500, ABLE1 <somewhere@nowhere.net
wrote:

On 11/1/2020 5:38 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
Are you prepared to pay for the best? (The worst you already have in
the form of an SMT fuse). For a little more $$$, the manufacturer
might supply a PPTC resettable fuse:
https://www.littelfuse.com/products/polyswitch-resettable-ptcs.aspx
Nothing to replace when it blows. Just give it time to cool down.


So Jeff, let me ask you.

If I would replace or jumper the B = RXEF010 resetable fuse the board
would work, meet code, and almost never have to concern myself with
it in the future??

Please correct me if I am wrong.

Thanks,

Les

Would you prefer to replace the fuse with the same type and rating,
or throw the thing in the garbage, next time ?

RL



Now that I know there might be a resetable fuse available.

What I was thinking was to replace the fuse with a \"resetable\" as
suggested by Jeff. A resetable that had a compatible rating and
was available at a quantity of maybe 10 each or so. That way,
I would have some available for other boards in the future should
I need any. It is simple, as opposed to buying a whole new board
for $25.00 + Tariff + Tax + Shipping + etc. etc. for the cost of
a $0.80?? part.

Les

You\'re going to buy a part, so buy the right one.

A PTC fuse won\'t do the same job - they require more info than
you have to apply reliably.

RL
 
On Sun, 1 Nov 2020 14:09:56 -0800 (PST) the anus of Edward Hernandez <dtgamer99@gmail.com> sputtered:
> I think you do. Are you able to chase me? Don\'t get out of breath.

Stop being such a troll and go away. You got useful advice at the outset
on your charger in this group. Now you are simply acting like a spoiled
child who was told \"no candy before dinner\" by Mom & Dad when you really
wanted some candy.
 
On 11/2/2020 10:39 AM, legg wrote:
On Mon, 2 Nov 2020 08:35:04 -0500, ABLE1 <somewhere@nowhere.net
wrote:

On 11/2/2020 7:51 AM, legg wrote:
On Sun, 1 Nov 2020 22:49:59 -0500, ABLE1 <somewhere@nowhere.net
wrote:

On 11/1/2020 5:38 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
Are you prepared to pay for the best? (The worst you already have in
the form of an SMT fuse). For a little more $$$, the manufacturer
might supply a PPTC resettable fuse:
https://www.littelfuse.com/products/polyswitch-resettable-ptcs.aspx
Nothing to replace when it blows. Just give it time to cool down.


So Jeff, let me ask you.

If I would replace or jumper the B = RXEF010 resetable fuse the board
would work, meet code, and almost never have to concern myself with
it in the future??

Please correct me if I am wrong.

Thanks,

Les

Would you prefer to replace the fuse with the same type and rating,
or throw the thing in the garbage, next time ?

RL



Now that I know there might be a resetable fuse available.

What I was thinking was to replace the fuse with a \"resetable\" as
suggested by Jeff. A resetable that had a compatible rating and
was available at a quantity of maybe 10 each or so. That way,
I would have some available for other boards in the future should
I need any. It is simple, as opposed to buying a whole new board
for $25.00 + Tariff + Tax + Shipping + etc. etc. for the cost of
a $0.80?? part.

Les

You\'re going to buy a part, so buy the right one.

A PTC fuse won\'t do the same job - they require more info than
you have to apply reliably.

RL

Ok??

RL,

What additional information would I need \"to buy the right one\"??

120VAC
..125 amps
fast acting
a good one shows 5.9 ohms while installed on board
– 55 deg C to 90 deg C.

So maybe this one??

https://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/electronics/datasheets/resettable_ptcs/littelfuse_ptc_lvr_datasheet.pdf.pdf

The LVR025S to be specific.

BTW this is more of an experiment or some personal edification.

As is said; Need to learn something new ever day.

Thanks for any input. (Quality input that is)

Les
 

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