Replacing PGA370 CPU Socket

T

techforce

Guest
I need to replace a PGA370 Socket on a celeron Mainboard. The Tab for the
Heat sink Clip has sheered off.

I seem to have located a replacement Socket by Tyco/AMP. Never changed one
of these before.

Is Hot air the best way, or is desoldering every pin with a solder sucker /
Wick an alternative?

We have some small SMD caps in the Center of the Socket on component side -
so Heating the PCB may dislogde them & create more work.

Read Somewhere else that they put it in the Oven for a while...and it came
right off. But What temperature ??
 
Motherboard for dinner? I'd rather have meat loaf to be fair. The reason for
heat sinks in the first place (even on the chipset ships of the motherboard)
is to keep them in temperature, I can't imagine putting them in an oven!
Also think about all the other soulder joints you just heated up. I say go
with the sucker if you have a good one, if not go with the wick. I would
personal use a grounded souldering iron at about 15 to 20 watts, anything
over that is going to be to hot. The caps, they should be fine just don't
use a 40 watt iron that will heat up half the board;) All in all try it out
and find out, the motherboard is use less if you can't mount a heat sink for
your cpu. Have fun,



"techforce" <techforce@!~NOSPAM!~.juno.com> wrote in message
news:Fp3Pa.1207$5o5.673724@news1.news.adelphia.net...
I need to replace a PGA370 Socket on a celeron Mainboard. The Tab for the
Heat sink Clip has sheered off.

I seem to have located a replacement Socket by Tyco/AMP. Never changed one
of these before.

Is Hot air the best way, or is desoldering every pin with a solder sucker
/
Wick an alternative?

We have some small SMD caps in the Center of the Socket on component
side -
so Heating the PCB may dislogde them & create more work.

Read Somewhere else that they put it in the Oven for a while...and it came
right off. But What temperature ??
Click to expand...
 
P.S. Don't cook it!


"techforce" <techforce@!~NOSPAM!~.juno.com> wrote in message
news:Fp3Pa.1207$5o5.673724@news1.news.adelphia.net...
I need to replace a PGA370 Socket on a celeron Mainboard. The Tab for the
Heat sink Clip has sheered off.

I seem to have located a replacement Socket by Tyco/AMP. Never changed one
of these before.

Is Hot air the best way, or is desoldering every pin with a solder sucker
/
Wick an alternative?

We have some small SMD caps in the Center of the Socket on component
side -
so Heating the PCB may dislogde them & create more work.

Read Somewhere else that they put it in the Oven for a while...and it came
right off. But What temperature ??
Click to expand...
 
Guess Ill go with the Sucker / Wick. Thanks.

"Jay Convertino" <JDC@(NO SPAM)cnyconnect.net> wrote in message
news:wS4Pa.4887$fa3.2622@fe01.atl2.webusenet.com...
P.S. Don't cook it!


"techforce" <techforce@!~NOSPAM!~.juno.com> wrote in message
news:Fp3Pa.1207$5o5.673724@news1.news.adelphia.net...
I need to replace a PGA370 Socket on a celeron Mainboard. The Tab for
the
Heat sink Clip has sheered off.

I seem to have located a replacement Socket by Tyco/AMP. Never changed
one
of these before.

Is Hot air the best way, or is desoldering every pin with a solder
sucker
/
Wick an alternative?

We have some small SMD caps in the Center of the Socket on component
side -
so Heating the PCB may dislogde them & create more work.

Read Somewhere else that they put it in the Oven for a while...and it
came
right off. But What temperature ??
Click to expand...
 
Why not try screwing a tiny screw into where the lug came off so you can
hook the heatsink lug onto it?
 
HI dont even contemplate this its bound not to work afterwards...!!!

1...consider if the socket oulding is in 2 pieces it usually is and you
may be able to replace the broken part...
2...like someone else suggested an alternative fixing..

3..plan b as always.......superglue will work just fine on the cpu and
heatsink..!!!

"techforce" <techforce@!~NOSPAM!~.juno.com> wrote in message
news:Fp3Pa.1207$5o5.673724@news1.news.adelphia.net...
I need to replace a PGA370 Socket on a celeron Mainboard. The Tab for the
Heat sink Clip has sheered off.

I seem to have located a replacement Socket by Tyco/AMP. Never changed one
of these before.

Is Hot air the best way, or is desoldering every pin with a solder sucker
/
Wick an alternative?

We have some small SMD caps in the Center of the Socket on component
side -
so Heating the PCB may dislogde them & create more work.

Read Somewhere else that they put it in the Oven for a while...and it came
right off. But What temperature ??
Click to expand...
 
If you put in a screw don't you risk putting it in to far and shorting out
pins? Don't you have to pre drill a hole? I personal would not go near my
motherboard with a drill unless I was planning on hanging it for decoration.
Also I'm pretty sure your motherboard will be fine if you solder the right
way. The 370 do come in two pieces but that doesn't help since the part the
clip is on is the part soldered to the board which is one hole piece of
plastic. As long as you have patience the soldering it will go fine, if need
be use heat sink clips on very heat sensitive components. I'm looking at a
Socket 7 right now, which is very similar to a 370 (actually if I remember
the 370 only has one less or more pin). It wouldn't happen to have anther a
little bigger heat sink clip next to the one that got sheared off? Some of
the older sockets did because some heat sinks use a piece of metal that goes
off to the side and then latches. If it has one I'd say look for a heat sink
with that kind of clipping mechanism (sorry for the poor description).
Superglue? I'd rather be able to use my heat sink again on anther cpu or to
cut costs when upgrading. I also do not know how well a heat conductor
superglue would be. Oh if you superglue your cpu make sure to superglue
those plug in pray cards because those you don't want to fall out;) (sorry
for being a smart***) but anyway the soldering I know would do fine done the
right way. Any other ideas would be good to consider just as long as they
are reasonable (Superglue and screws sounds like what my Dad fixed are old
family car with!) good luck.

-glasnostJDC

"techforce" <techforce@!~NOSPAM!~.juno.com> wrote in message
news:Fp3Pa.1207$5o5.673724@news1.news.adelphia.net...
I need to replace a PGA370 Socket on a celeron Mainboard. The Tab for the
Heat sink Clip has sheered off.

I seem to have located a replacement Socket by Tyco/AMP. Never changed one
of these before.

Is Hot air the best way, or is desoldering every pin with a solder sucker
/
Wick an alternative?

We have some small SMD caps in the Center of the Socket on component
side -
so Heating the PCB may dislogde them & create more work.

Read Somewhere else that they put it in the Oven for a while...and it came
right off. But What temperature ??
Click to expand...
 
The screw Idea is something I do a lot on other repairs for Tape Decks
etc...& I use a Pinvise Drill to start the hole.
I am hesitant in this case because I am not sure if the socket material is
drill-able. It looks like it might crack when I put in a slightly oversize
self -tapping screw from a Walkman unit etc.

I did Find a Replacement Socket at Mouser.com, made by AMP/TYCO. The One I
am replacing is made by Foxconn....and has a plastic Zif Handle, whereas the
TYCO has a metal.





"glasnostJDC" <JDC@(NO SPAM)cnyconnect.net> wrote in message
news:uJiPa.8084$fa3.4669@fe01.atl2.webusenet.com...
If you put in a screw don't you risk putting it in to far and shorting out
pins? Don't you have to pre drill a hole? I personal would not go near my
motherboard with a drill unless I was planning on hanging it for
decoration.
Also I'm pretty sure your motherboard will be fine if you solder the right
way. The 370 do come in two pieces but that doesn't help since the part
the
clip is on is the part soldered to the board which is one hole piece of
plastic. As long as you have patience the soldering it will go fine, if
need
be use heat sink clips on very heat sensitive components. I'm looking at a
Socket 7 right now, which is very similar to a 370 (actually if I remember
the 370 only has one less or more pin). It wouldn't happen to have anther
a
little bigger heat sink clip next to the one that got sheared off? Some of
the older sockets did because some heat sinks use a piece of metal that
goes
off to the side and then latches. If it has one I'd say look for a heat
sink
with that kind of clipping mechanism (sorry for the poor description).
Superglue? I'd rather be able to use my heat sink again on anther cpu or
to
cut costs when upgrading. I also do not know how well a heat conductor
superglue would be. Oh if you superglue your cpu make sure to superglue
those plug in pray cards because those you don't want to fall out;) (sorry
for being a smart***) but anyway the soldering I know would do fine done
the
right way. Any other ideas would be good to consider just as long as they
are reasonable (Superglue and screws sounds like what my Dad fixed are old
family car with!) good luck.

-glasnostJDC

"techforce" <techforce@!~NOSPAM!~.juno.com> wrote in message
news:Fp3Pa.1207$5o5.673724@news1.news.adelphia.net...
I need to replace a PGA370 Socket on a celeron Mainboard. The Tab for
the
Heat sink Clip has sheered off.

I seem to have located a replacement Socket by Tyco/AMP. Never changed
one
of these before.

Is Hot air the best way, or is desoldering every pin with a solder
sucker
/
Wick an alternative?

We have some small SMD caps in the Center of the Socket on component
side -
so Heating the PCB may dislogde them & create more work.

Read Somewhere else that they put it in the Oven for a while...and it
came
right off. But What temperature ??
Click to expand...
 
On Thu, 10 Jul 2003 01:35:33 GMT "techforce"
<techforce@!~NOSPAM!~.juno.com> wrote:

I need to replace a PGA370 Socket on a celeron Mainboard. The Tab for the
Heat sink Clip has sheered off.

Is Hot air the best way, or is desoldering every pin with a solder sucker /
Wick an alternative?
Click to expand...
I've done something similar on another MB and discovered that neither
the solder wick nor the sucker was of any use at all. The problem is
that the board is thicker than normal, multiple layer, and has (of
course) plated thru holes. There is just NO WAY to get everything
cleared out all the way thru the MB so that you can get the old socket
off.

Here's what might work for you; I've done something similar to this.

Get a flat hot plate, and work out a way to suspend the MB about 1/2"
above the hot plate surface. Cover the bottom side of the MB with a
double layer of alum foil except around the socket plus 2" extra all
around. Leave the top side of the MB open. Cut out a piece of foil to
lay on top of the socket to keep the heat in that area; make that
piece a bit larger than the socket.

Put the MB with cut-out foil underneath and spot of foil on top above
the hot plate and turn the hot plate on low. Put a piece of solder on
the hot plate so you can see when it gets to solder melting temp.

Watch everything and don't rush. Turn the hot plate temp control up
slowly until the solder on it melts. Keep turning it up until the
radiant heat warms up the socket (with foil above to keep the heat in
that section only.) Keep increasing the temp until you can take the
socket out.

Once the socket is out, use your solder sucker to clear each hole.
Leave the MB over the hot plate while you do this.

BTW, this can be very hot work. You may need gloves.

On the repair I did, I was amazed that I was unable to just clear
solder out of UNUSED holes in the MB with my 42W Weller pencil. I had
to preheat the MB from below before the soldering iron had ANY effect.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------
 
If it's only a mechanical problem, I'd highly recommend finding a mechanical
solution. Replacing a socket with 100s of pins isn't something for the
first timer. :)

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: The email address in this message header may no longer work. To
contact me, please use the Feedback Form at repairfaq.org. Thanks.


Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> writes:

On Thu, 10 Jul 2003 01:35:33 GMT "techforce"
techforce@!~NOSPAM!~.juno.com> wrote:

I need to replace a PGA370 Socket on a celeron Mainboard. The Tab for the
Heat sink Clip has sheered off.

Is Hot air the best way, or is desoldering every pin with a solder sucker /
Wick an alternative?

I've done something similar on another MB and discovered that neither
the solder wick nor the sucker was of any use at all. The problem is
that the board is thicker than normal, multiple layer, and has (of
course) plated thru holes. There is just NO WAY to get everything
cleared out all the way thru the MB so that you can get the old socket
off.

Here's what might work for you; I've done something similar to this.

Get a flat hot plate, and work out a way to suspend the MB about 1/2"
above the hot plate surface. Cover the bottom side of the MB with a
double layer of alum foil except around the socket plus 2" extra all
around. Leave the top side of the MB open. Cut out a piece of foil to
lay on top of the socket to keep the heat in that area; make that
piece a bit larger than the socket.

Put the MB with cut-out foil underneath and spot of foil on top above
the hot plate and turn the hot plate on low. Put a piece of solder on
the hot plate so you can see when it gets to solder melting temp.

Watch everything and don't rush. Turn the hot plate temp control up
slowly until the solder on it melts. Keep turning it up until the
radiant heat warms up the socket (with foil above to keep the heat in
that section only.) Keep increasing the temp until you can take the
socket out.

Once the socket is out, use your solder sucker to clear each hole.
Leave the MB over the hot plate while you do this.

BTW, this can be very hot work. You may need gloves.

On the repair I did, I was amazed that I was unable to just clear
solder out of UNUSED holes in the MB with my 42W Weller pencil. I had
to preheat the MB from below before the soldering iron had ANY effect.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------
Click to expand...
 
YEA
you could drill a small hole in socket and fit small screw...as new latch

john









"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6wsmpcx76q.fsf@saul.cis.upenn.edu...
If it's only a mechanical problem, I'd highly recommend finding a
mechanical
solution. Replacing a socket with 100s of pins isn't something for the
first timer. :)

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: The email address in this message header may no longer work.
To
contact me, please use the Feedback Form at repairfaq.org. Thanks.


Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> writes:

On Thu, 10 Jul 2003 01:35:33 GMT "techforce"
techforce@!~NOSPAM!~.juno.com> wrote:

I need to replace a PGA370 Socket on a celeron Mainboard. The Tab for
the
Heat sink Clip has sheered off.

Is Hot air the best way, or is desoldering every pin with a solder
sucker /
Wick an alternative?

I've done something similar on another MB and discovered that neither
the solder wick nor the sucker was of any use at all. The problem is
that the board is thicker than normal, multiple layer, and has (of
course) plated thru holes. There is just NO WAY to get everything
cleared out all the way thru the MB so that you can get the old socket
off.

Here's what might work for you; I've done something similar to this.

Get a flat hot plate, and work out a way to suspend the MB about 1/2"
above the hot plate surface. Cover the bottom side of the MB with a
double layer of alum foil except around the socket plus 2" extra all
around. Leave the top side of the MB open. Cut out a piece of foil to
lay on top of the socket to keep the heat in that area; make that
piece a bit larger than the socket.

Put the MB with cut-out foil underneath and spot of foil on top above
the hot plate and turn the hot plate on low. Put a piece of solder on
the hot plate so you can see when it gets to solder melting temp.

Watch everything and don't rush. Turn the hot plate temp control up
slowly until the solder on it melts. Keep turning it up until the
radiant heat warms up the socket (with foil above to keep the heat in
that section only.) Keep increasing the temp until you can take the
socket out.

Once the socket is out, use your solder sucker to clear each hole.
Leave the MB over the hot plate while you do this.

BTW, this can be very hot work. You may need gloves.

On the repair I did, I was amazed that I was unable to just clear
solder out of UNUSED holes in the MB with my 42W Weller pencil. I had
to preheat the MB from below before the soldering iron had ANY effect.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------
Click to expand...
 
On 12 Jul 2003 08:26:05 -0400 Sam Goldwasser <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu>
wrote:

If it's only a mechanical problem, I'd highly recommend finding a mechanical
solution. Replacing a socket with 100s of pins isn't something for the
first timer. :)
Click to expand...
Absolutely true. I didn't mean to imply that this would be easy, just
that it MIGHT be possible. It is STILL pretty close to impossible,
however, so a simple mechanical solution would be desirable.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------
 
Jim Adney wrote:
On 12 Jul 2003 08:26:05 -0400 Sam Goldwasser <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu
wrote:

If it's only a mechanical problem, I'd highly recommend finding a mechanical
solution. Replacing a socket with 100s of pins isn't something for the
first timer. :)

Absolutely true. I didn't mean to imply that this would be easy, just
that it MIGHT be possible. It is STILL pretty close to impossible,
however, so a simple mechanical solution would be desirable.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------
Click to expand...

What about gluing a new tab on the socket? I would think a hagh
strength glue, or maybe even super glue would be strong enough if you
have a flat surface to work with.

One other thing would be to look for a heat sink that will still mount.
I used to have a socket 7 board that was scrapped because of a broken
heat sink tab. Socket 7 sockets have 2 sets of tabs and one of the tabs
used by most heat sinks was broken, but the other 3 were fine. All I
had to do was find the less common type of heat sink that used the other
pair of tabs.
--
Andy Cuffe
baltimora@psu.edu
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Welcome to EDABoard.com

Sponsor

Back
Top