Quality of DSE soldering supplies

[Mark Harriss]

Just been helping some students assemble some electronics projects:
We'd bought the Dick Smith branded "Digitor resin (sic) cored solder
type 35" and the Dick Smith branded "Super Solder Wick" cat No N2814.

To cut a long story short, neither product works very well: The solder
can't wet the shiny nickel plated terminals on the binding posts that
DSE sells probably because of the passivation used to keep the metal
shiny after being handled by grubby hands and the solder wick can't mop
up solder very well as it was made without rosin being applied to the
wick.

Once I brought out some much older DSE solder made by Multicore and
Soder-Wick made by Chemtronics the soldering became possible.

The whole problem was caused by three distinct products not being quite
good enough for the purpose they were sold for. It seems that the cost
cutting, "Near enough is good enough" attitude adds up and compounds
the difficulty of getting started with electronics.

I'd compare these items with the cheap discount store goods where you know
you are taking a risk, a bit like the cheap epoxy I bought that never
hardens past a sticky, jelly-like consistency.

For someone starting in electronics this would be a great way of
discouraging them as they couldn't solder properly with this stuff and
would conclude the fault lay with them instead and go back to playing their
Playstation.

 

[budgie]

On Sun, 06 May 2007 11:33:56 +1000, Mark Harriss <blargle@example.net> wrote:

Just been helping some students assemble some electronics projects:
We'd bought the Dick Smith branded "Digitor resin (sic) cored solder
type 35" and the Dick Smith branded "Super Solder Wick" cat No N2814.

To cut a long story short, neither product works very well: The solder
can't wet the shiny nickel plated terminals on the binding posts that
DSE sells probably because of the passivation used to keep the metal
shiny after being handled by grubby hands and the solder wick can't mop
up solder very well as it was made without rosin being applied to the
wick.

I've consistently found problems soldering to "nickel-plated" binding posts etc
as the plating seems resistant to wetting even with decent solder. I've usually
resorted to abrading much of the plating off the target area, exposing the
underlying steel, and get a better result.

Once I brought out some much older DSE solder made by Multicore and
Soder-Wick made by Chemtronics the soldering became possible.

Not entirely surprising.

The whole problem was caused by three distinct products not being quite
good enough for the purpose they were sold for. It seems that the cost
cutting, "Near enough is good enough" attitude adds up and compounds
the difficulty of getting started with electronics.

There is NO QC on such goods. The Woolies (DSE) buyers, like their cousins at
Jaycar and Altronics (and probably the rest of the low-end), source on price
alone. If some chinese backyard supplier is cheaper, he gets this month's
order.

I'd compare these items with the cheap discount store goods where you know
you are taking a risk, a bit like the cheap epoxy I bought that never
hardens past a sticky, jelly-like consistency.

For someone starting in electronics this would be a great way of
discouraging them as they couldn't solder properly with this stuff and
would conclude the fault lay with them instead and go back to playing their
Playstation.

Yep. Some time back, someone posted seeking a recommendation for a soldering
iron etc for a ten(?)-y-o nephew wanting to start in electronics. The best way
to keep his interest would be a decent iron, the quick way to lose him would be
a cheapie.

Regrettably a lot of the components that we could buy readily yesteryear have
disappeared in the face of competition from cheap crap. As an example, Sato
used to do a series of fully enclosed miniature rotary switches (n pole, 12/ n
position) where the body was less than 1cm in diameter. The nearest I could
find a couple of years back in Australia was >$100 from Farkenell.

 

[kreed]

On May 6, 11:33 am, Mark Harriss <blar...@example.net> wrote:

Just been helping some students assemble some electronics projects:
We'd bought the Dick Smith branded "Digitor resin (sic) cored solder
type 35" and the Dick Smith branded "Super Solder Wick" cat No N2814.

To cut a long story short, neither product works very well: The solder
can't wet the shiny nickel plated terminals on the binding posts that
DSE sells probably because of the passivation used to keep the metal
shiny after being handled by grubby hands and the solder wick can't mop
up solder very well as it was made without rosin being applied to the
wick.

Once I brought out some much older DSE solder made by Multicore and
Soder-Wick made by Chemtronics the soldering became possible.

The whole problem was caused by three distinct products not being quite
good enough for the purpose they were sold for. It seems that the cost
cutting, "Near enough is good enough" attitude adds up and compounds
the difficulty of getting started with electronics.

I'd compare these items with the cheap discount store goods where you know
you are taking a risk, a bit like the cheap epoxy I bought that never
hardens past a sticky, jelly-like consistency.

For someone starting in electronics this would be a great way of
discouraging them as they couldn't solder properly with this stuff and
would conclude the fault lay with them instead and go back to playing their
Playstation.

I agree. Unfortunately the only way out of this is to fork out the $$
from somwehere like Farnell etc (jaycar etc might be ok, but we don't
have them locally).
The good side to this is that buying excellent tools, that won't let
you down and they will still be with you in 10 years, and in some
cases for life.



As for solder, you can buy excellent solder in about 4 thicknesses
from Haymans trade counter. the larger 2 probably arent much good for
electronics, but most of them stock the small diameter stuff we need.

I havent had trouble soldering to anything with this solder.

 

[Joe G (Home)]

Yep, the DSE branded solder wick is crap.

I by the other branded stuff either at DSE, Jayar or else where.

I still have a 10 year old "Classic" Auto Temp Station - Still going strong.


Yes, low dollar items often do not get refunded when they are not "fit for
purpose",
ether because of the time, or petrol effort to get back to the store. Hence
the
Solder Wick puchasing manager in DSE head office doesn't get to hear about
his poor quality products.

BUT perhaps filling out a 2minute feedback form would help vent your anger
about this issue

DSE feedback form http://tinyurl.com/3drp4k

Perhaps if 20 people on this forum filled out the forum DSE may take some
notice.


There's power in the masses!

Joe


"Mark Harriss" <blargle@example.net> wrote in message
news:463d3059@quokka.wn.com.au...

Just been helping some students assemble some electronics projects:
We'd bought the Dick Smith branded "Digitor resin (sic) cored solder
type 35" and the Dick Smith branded "Super Solder Wick" cat No N2814.

To cut a long story short, neither product works very well: The solder
can't wet the shiny nickel plated terminals on the binding posts that
DSE sells probably because of the passivation used to keep the metal
shiny after being handled by grubby hands and the solder wick can't mop
up solder very well as it was made without rosin being applied to the
wick.

Once I brought out some much older DSE solder made by Multicore and
Soder-Wick made by Chemtronics the soldering became possible.

The whole problem was caused by three distinct products not being quite
good enough for the purpose they were sold for. It seems that the cost
cutting, "Near enough is good enough" attitude adds up and compounds
the difficulty of getting started with electronics.

I'd compare these items with the cheap discount store goods where you know
you are taking a risk, a bit like the cheap epoxy I bought that never
hardens past a sticky, jelly-like consistency.

For someone starting in electronics this would be a great way of
discouraging them as they couldn't solder properly with this stuff and
would conclude the fault lay with them instead and go back to playing
their
Playstation.

 

[Phil Allison]

"Joe G (Home)"

Yep, the DSE branded solder wick is crap.

** The problem with that useless " dry " wick has been known to DSE staff
for over 30 years.

Complaints have been filed.

Get the idea yet ?



........ Phil

 

[Two Bob]

Yep, the DSE branded solder wick is crap.


** The problem with that useless " dry " wick has been known to DSE staff
for over 30 years.

Complaints have been filed.

Get the idea yet ?

Of course they dont get it. They will keep going back for more to save a
couple of dollars then continue to whine about it.

 

[What The]

got stuck myself today, had 2" of wick left, needed to do some work, didnt
have time to goto jaycar so went to dickies, needless to say i'll be going
to jaycar and buying 2 packs at my next possible moment!



"Mark Harriss" <blargle@example.net> wrote in message
news:463d3059@quokka.wn.com.au...

Just been helping some students assemble some electronics projects:
We'd bought the Dick Smith branded "Digitor resin (sic) cored solder
type 35" and the Dick Smith branded "Super Solder Wick" cat No N2814.

To cut a long story short, neither product works very well: The solder
can't wet the shiny nickel plated terminals on the binding posts that
DSE sells probably because of the passivation used to keep the metal
shiny after being handled by grubby hands and the solder wick can't mop
up solder very well as it was made without rosin being applied to the
wick.

Once I brought out some much older DSE solder made by Multicore and
Soder-Wick made by Chemtronics the soldering became possible.

The whole problem was caused by three distinct products not being quite
good enough for the purpose they were sold for. It seems that the cost
cutting, "Near enough is good enough" attitude adds up and compounds
the difficulty of getting started with electronics.

I'd compare these items with the cheap discount store goods where you know
you are taking a risk, a bit like the cheap epoxy I bought that never
hardens past a sticky, jelly-like consistency.

For someone starting in electronics this would be a great way of
discouraging them as they couldn't solder properly with this stuff and
would conclude the fault lay with them instead and go back to playing
their
Playstation.