Micron soldering station kaput

[Glenn]

My temperature adjustable (40 W) Micron soldering station was dead
when I tried to turn it on last night. Fuse was OK. But no other
sign of life -- no front LED, no heating etc.

Not sure where to start looking but do the ceramic heating elements on
these die? How can I test the element? It is a two wire only element
(no separate temp sensor).

Cheers
Glenn

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On Sun, 3 Aug 2008 16:18:54 -0700 (PDT), Glenn <glenn@evans-pure.net>
put finger to keyboard and composed:

My temperature adjustable (40 W) Micron soldering station was dead
when I tried to turn it on last night. Fuse was OK. But no other
sign of life -- no front LED, no heating etc.

Not sure where to start looking but do the ceramic heating elements on
these die? How can I test the element? It is a two wire only element
(no separate temp sensor).

Cheers
Glenn

Mine had a dry solder joint. Later on the cable for the handpiece went
OC. I've also had to shorten the mains lead due to a break at the
point where it enters the base.

BTW, to fix the dry joint, I held it closed with an insulated stick,
then let the iron warm up. I then switched off the iron and reflowed
the joint with the residual heat.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

 

[Glenn]

On Aug 5, 7:04 am, Franc Zabkar <fzab...@iinternode.on.net> wrote:

On Sun, 3 Aug 2008 16:18:54 -0700 (PDT), Glenn <gl...@evans-pure.net
put finger to keyboard and composed:

My temperature adjustable (40 W) Micron soldering station was dead
when I tried to turn it on last night. Fuse was OK. But no other
sign of life -- no front LED, no heating etc.

Not sure where to start looking but do the ceramic heating elements on
these die? How can I test the element? It is a two wire only element
(no separate temp sensor).

Cheers
Glenn

Mine had a dry solder joint. Later on the cable for the handpiece went
OC. I've also had to shorten the mains lead due to a break at the
point where it enters the base.

BTW, to fix the dry joint, I held it closed with an insulated stick,
then let the iron warm up. I then switched off the iron and reflowed
the joint with the residual heat.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

Thanks Franc. There is resistance across the element (about 400 ohms)
so I'm guessing it's OK. I have found a zener on the control PCB that
appears cactus. I'm confused though. The board marks it ZD1 and
shows 94V - 0 next to it. I assumed this meant a 94 volt zener.
However, when I removed it, it was marked BZX55C 8V2, indicating an
8.2 volt zener.

Glenn

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On Tue, 5 Aug 2008 04:59:15 -0700 (PDT), Glenn <glenn@evans-pure.net>
put finger to keyboard and composed:

The board marks it ZD1 and
shows 94V - 0 next to it.

I believe "94V - 0" is some kind of UL certification mark
(flammability rating) that has been granted to the appliance.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

 

[Glenn]

On Aug 6, 6:09 am, Franc Zabkar <fzab...@iinternode.on.net> wrote:

On Tue, 5 Aug 2008 04:59:15 -0700 (PDT), Glenn <gl...@evans-pure.net
put finger to keyboard and composed:

The board marks it ZD1 and
shows 94V - 0 next to it.

I believe "94V - 0" is some kind of UL certification mark
(flammability rating) that has been granted to the appliance.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

Thanks again. Nice place to put a label like that. Replacing the
dead zener appears to have fixed it.

Glenn