Advice replacing HDTV projection tube needed

K

King David

Guest
I have a 61' RCA P61310 rear projection widescreen tv.
The center section 4:3 has a slight red tint but the left and right sides
look great.

It is real noticable on white backgrounds.

I think the green tube has a phosphor burn in the middle caused during 4:3
viewing.

Is is difficult to replace the tube?
Are there any things to watch out for while replacing a tube? Alignment
problems?

I haven't opend up the tv yet but I found a replacement tube for $240.45 at
PartSolver.com
http://www.partsolver.com/Product.asp?InventoryID=419261&SubstitutePart=0&Mo
delManufacturer=RCA&ModelNumber=P61310&ModelID=45415&OrgPartNum=&OrgPartMfg=
RCA

Thanks for your help
 
"King David" <new_trader_boy@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:MG1Jb.93500$VB2.211194@attbi_s51...
I have a 61' RCA P61310 rear projection widescreen tv.
The center section 4:3 has a slight red tint but the left and right sides
look great.

It is real noticable on white backgrounds.

I think the green tube has a phosphor burn in the middle caused during 4:3
viewing.

Is is difficult to replace the tube?
Are there any things to watch out for while replacing a tube? Alignment
problems?

I haven't opend up the tv yet but I found a replacement tube for $240.45
at
PartSolver.com

http://www.partsolver.com/Product.asp?InventoryID=419261&SubstitutePart=0&Mo

delManufacturer=RCA&ModelNumber=P61310&ModelID=45415&OrgPartNum=&OrgPartMfg=
RCA

Thanks for your help
Click to expand...
You'll want to inspect all 3 tubes, generally if you only replace one,
you'll notice the same burn on the other two and have difficulty achieving
good white ballance with the differently aged tubes. Replacement labor
varies, but you'll have to do a full convergence and geometry alignment.
 
"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:pZ1Jb.188726$8y1.605204@attbi_s52...
"King David" <new_trader_boy@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:MG1Jb.93500$VB2.211194@attbi_s51...
I have a 61' RCA P61310 rear projection widescreen tv.
The center section 4:3 has a slight red tint but the left and right
sides
look great.

It is real noticable on white backgrounds.

I think the green tube has a phosphor burn in the middle caused during
4:3
viewing.

Is is difficult to replace the tube?
Are there any things to watch out for while replacing a tube? Alignment
problems?

I haven't opend up the tv yet but I found a replacement tube for $240.45
at
PartSolver.com


http://www.partsolver.com/Product.asp?InventoryID=419261&SubstitutePart=0&Mo


delManufacturer=RCA&ModelNumber=P61310&ModelID=45415&OrgPartNum=&OrgPartMfg=
RCA

Thanks for your help



You'll want to inspect all 3 tubes, generally if you only replace one,
you'll notice the same burn on the other two and have difficulty achieving
good white ballance with the differently aged tubes. Replacement labor
varies, but you'll have to do a full convergence and geometry alignment.

FWIW, there should be an easy way to inspect the individual tubes for burn.
Click to expand...
I've never worked on these, but to my mind one way would be to simply cover
the other two tubes with something and view the picture of each one alone.

Certainly beats actually swapping out a tube, just to see....

jak

>
 
"jakdedert" <jdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:eek:k2Jb.9694$yA6.6055@bignews1.bellsouth.net...
"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:pZ1Jb.188726$8y1.605204@attbi_s52...

"King David" <new_trader_boy@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:MG1Jb.93500$VB2.211194@attbi_s51...
I have a 61' RCA P61310 rear projection widescreen tv.
The center section 4:3 has a slight red tint but the left and right
sides
look great.

It is real noticable on white backgrounds.

I think the green tube has a phosphor burn in the middle caused during
4:3
viewing.

Is is difficult to replace the tube?
Are there any things to watch out for while replacing a tube?
Alignment
problems?

I haven't opend up the tv yet but I found a replacement tube for
$240.45
at
PartSolver.com



http://www.partsolver.com/Product.asp?InventoryID=419261&SubstitutePart=0&Mo



delManufacturer=RCA&ModelNumber=P61310&ModelID=45415&OrgPartNum=&OrgPartMfg=
RCA

Thanks for your help



You'll want to inspect all 3 tubes, generally if you only replace one,
you'll notice the same burn on the other two and have difficulty
achieving
good white ballance with the differently aged tubes. Replacement labor
varies, but you'll have to do a full convergence and geometry alignment.

FWIW, there should be an easy way to inspect the individual tubes for
burn.
I've never worked on these, but to my mind one way would be to simply
cover
the other two tubes with something and view the picture of each one alone.

Certainly beats actually swapping out a tube, just to see....

jak
Click to expand...

Yes that will work too, what I was thinking was simply remove the screen and
peer down into the lenses, you can see the CRT faces that way and any burn
should be visible.
 
On Thu, 01 Jan 2004 23:03:08 GMT, "King David"
<new_trader_boy@yahoo.com> wrote:

I have a 61' RCA P61310 rear projection widescreen tv.
The center section 4:3 has a slight red tint but the left and right sides
look great.

It is real noticable on white backgrounds.

I think the green tube has a phosphor burn in the middle caused during 4:3
viewing.

Is is difficult to replace the tube?
Are there any things to watch out for while replacing a tube? Alignment
problems?

I haven't opend up the tv yet but I found a replacement tube for $240.45 at
PartSolver.com
Click to expand...
Swapping CRT is trivial what is real tedious part is convergencing.

Convergence job is done with same old chipper II with a new adapter
and recent software. There is TWO bulletins for this burn issue on
this chassis. Fix both and it will not burn again. We have to swap
several of those "burnt" tubes especially red.

TV00008
TV01005

BTW, this is very recent chassis also, DTV307. Very IMPORTANT to
include service model on your inventory sheet or repair paperwork.
there is several different chassis that went through minor redesigns,
I have a older CTC169 (DTV) chassis that is not same as later ones
was, ditto to PTK195 especially convergence power boards but both
interchange as whole boards but part ordering is not.

Note: not just P61310, it is P61310JX1 (service model) for example
please. You have it right there in smaller font above the model line.
This is used for accurate part ordering, there was a bulletin on this
matter last year (2003). And warrenty processing requires internal
serial number. I often told boss when he is on service call to write
this service model down and it's harder to read in smaller font. :p
Simply use flashlight & magneifer.

DTV307 I think came out in last 2 or three years so it's an "NEW" and
should have warrenty still in effect.

Cheers,

Wizard
 
Will using the automatic convergence work in the tv memu?
Or is there something I would have to do manually?

You'll want to inspect all 3 tubes, generally if you only replace one,
you'll notice the same burn on the other two and have difficulty achieving
good white ballance with the differently aged tubes. Replacement labor
varies, but you'll have to do a full convergence and geometry alignment.
Click to expand...
 
Oh I forgot few things, do you have service manual CD for DTV307? It
is necessary bec it is a painful unit to work on (no lightbox).

Also convergence set up for two scan modes each, service manual
details how to do this job correctly for seperate scan modes.

I just did an ATC311 chassis last week after replacing HV splitter &
whole deflection board and redo the convergence (deflection boards has
minor tolerances that clearly shows up in convergence. Swapping whole
deflection board is easier & less costly than repair many parts
because one of transistor is honking big one and cost petty penny
itself plus blown up SMPS! Just for frigging HV splitter that was bad
batch. CTC169 was graceful when a HV splitter goes.

Gee, Thomson didn't know how to design in fail-safe especially when a
part shorts out and shut down gracefully even many has so many
shutdown circuits all strung along on one signal, makes
troubleshooting a hairy process. What thomson should do is use very
recent STR style 5 pin IC (TO220) for power supply to cut down on
complexies and efficient also STR has very good shutdown design. I
have so many sets like JVC that used this type still good after
replacing either flyback or HOT and they come up. Their thomson's
SMPS design is notorious to blow up violently where there's a short
downstream even a small diode for low voltage source is enough,
started with CTC203 and sorta inefficient on power conversion. Sigh.

Cheers,

Wizard
 
You need to have the Chipper Checker computer interface and software on
Thomson sets to do the Green geometry alignments. On a widescreen it has to
be performed for each mode as well. The auto convergence only fine adjusts
the red and blue to the green at the edges if the geometry and base
convergence are within a specific tolerance.

You are pretty much stuck having a servicer do the job that has the proper
equipment to get the set "adjusted to spec". Unless you want to buy the
Chipper Checker interface and software, around $200.

David

King David <new_trader_boy@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:Bd4Jb.94884$VB2.215845@attbi_s51...
Will using the automatic convergence work in the tv memu?
Or is there something I would have to do manually?


You'll want to inspect all 3 tubes, generally if you only replace one,
you'll notice the same burn on the other two and have difficulty
achieving
good white ballance with the differently aged tubes. Replacement labor
varies, but you'll have to do a full convergence and geometry alignment.
Click to expand...
 
"David" <dkuhajda@locl.net.spam> wrote in message
news:3ff4fcd9@news.greennet.net...
You need to have the Chipper Checker computer interface and software on
Thomson sets to do the Green geometry alignments. On a widescreen it has
to
be performed for each mode as well. The auto convergence only fine
adjusts
the red and blue to the green at the edges if the geometry and base
convergence are within a specific tolerance.

You are pretty much stuck having a servicer do the job that has the proper
equipment to get the set "adjusted to spec". Unless you want to buy the
Chipper Checker interface and software, around $200.

David
Click to expand...
If I were in that position I'd probably buy the interface and software, but
failing that I'd install the tube myself then take it to an authorized shop
for adjustment.
 
I guess in my case the only thing to do is call the repair guy if the
adjustments are going to need to be made.
The 61 inch tv isn't going to be leaving my upstairs room unless it's headed
to the junk yard.
You should have seen the delivery guys hall that big thing up curvy stairs.

I just don't trust repair guys to do a good job.
"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:k%4Jb.26398$I07.68544@attbi_s53...
"David" <dkuhajda@locl.net.spam> wrote in message
news:3ff4fcd9@news.greennet.net...
You need to have the Chipper Checker computer interface and software on
Thomson sets to do the Green geometry alignments. On a widescreen it
has
to
be performed for each mode as well. The auto convergence only fine
adjusts
the red and blue to the green at the edges if the geometry and base
convergence are within a specific tolerance.

You are pretty much stuck having a servicer do the job that has the
proper
equipment to get the set "adjusted to spec". Unless you want to buy the
Chipper Checker interface and software, around $200.

David



If I were in that position I'd probably buy the interface and software,
but
failing that I'd install the tube myself then take it to an authorized
shop
for adjustment.
Click to expand...
 
Suggestion on the ATC311 Chassis. When the HV block takes a dump and burns
the resistor on the deflection board. FYI
First: Replace the HV block
Second: Replace the brunt resistor on the deflection board.
Third; Switch the set on and inspect the geometry:
Fourth: Access the Service Menu and write down all the paremetre numbers and
values.
Fifth: Install the new deflection board. Then enter the correct values for
each parameter.
WHY??? Just minor geometry adjustments are required after complete board
replacement if you actually have the proper parameter values entered into
the E-prom.
NOTE: The board, if not burnt too severly, may still be servicable after
just replacing the resistor. Confirm this fact with your customer to
preclude nusiance callback because customer thinks a brown pcb due to the
heat of the resistor is a "failure".
"Jason D." <jpero@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3ff4ce15.22948304@news1.on.sympatico.ca...
Oh I forgot few things, do you have service manual CD for DTV307? It
is necessary bec it is a painful unit to work on (no lightbox).

Also convergence set up for two scan modes each, service manual
details how to do this job correctly for seperate scan modes.

I just did an ATC311 chassis last week after replacing HV splitter &
whole deflection board and redo the convergence (deflection boards has
minor tolerances that clearly shows up in convergence. Swapping whole
deflection board is easier & less costly than repair many parts
because one of transistor is honking big one and cost petty penny
itself plus blown up SMPS! Just for frigging HV splitter that was bad
batch. CTC169 was graceful when a HV splitter goes.

Gee, Thomson didn't know how to design in fail-safe especially when a
part shorts out and shut down gracefully even many has so many
shutdown circuits all strung along on one signal, makes
troubleshooting a hairy process. What thomson should do is use very
recent STR style 5 pin IC (TO220) for power supply to cut down on
complexies and efficient also STR has very good shutdown design. I
have so many sets like JVC that used this type still good after
replacing either flyback or HOT and they come up. Their thomson's
SMPS design is notorious to blow up violently where there's a short
downstream even a small diode for low voltage source is enough,
started with CTC203 and sorta inefficient on power conversion. Sigh.

Cheers,

Wizard
Click to expand...
 
On Fri, 2 Jan 2004 06:07:52 -0500, "Art" <stubby@comcast.net> wrote:

Suggestion on the ATC311 Chassis. When the HV block takes a dump and burns
the resistor on the deflection board. FYI
Click to expand...
Art,

Done per the bulletin on HV block and resistor. And find out a 225
dollars deflection board is blown as well. Bad parts: HV HOT (That
very big transistor package is appox 30 dollars or even more), SMPS
blown and a 6A fuse black. HV transformer supply might be bad also.
RCA SMPSes is notorious for wild blowups result in multiple parts
blown, when secondary diode or load shorts. Seen this many, many
times in ATC221/211 standby SMPSes because of that lousy little
secondary diode. Ditto to CTC203 & ATC113 does have same SMPS as 203
because of glue on L14401 cracked the solder joint 50/50 of time takes
out Q14401 and it might also take out the SMPS.

Cheers,

Wizard
 
On Fri, 02 Jan 2004 03:45:45 GMT, "King David"
<new_trader_boy@yahoo.com> wrote:

I guess in my case the only thing to do is call the repair guy if the
adjustments are going to need to be made.
The 61 inch tv isn't going to be leaving my upstairs room unless it's headed
to the junk yard.
You should have seen the delivery guys hall that big thing up curvy stairs.

I just don't trust repair guys to do a good job.
"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:k%4Jb.26398$I07.68544@attbi_s53...
Click to expand...
Sorry the problem is with your choice of set and not considering how
easy to move especially through diffcult areas. Still, get set
professionally moved, it is still worth fixing this one was worth over
2,500, even more when new and it is only 2 or 3 years old now.

BTW, consider normal 32" or 27" CRT tv for upstairs, leave projector
in the living room for ease of moving. Projector TV is like owning a
car and it is given repair for those is expensive. Actually should
have waited for DLP projector unit, much lighter and 16:9 capable.

RCA have since changed their chassis design to partial lightbox design
(Like ATC311 all plastic, chassis boards stacked, deflection board on
left side, next is convergence board set on vertical but need to
almost take whole set apart, unplug bunch of wires.). DTV307 wasn't
an removeable lightbox style unfortunely. The older RCA projector
till around 2001 (chassis PTK195 based) were good and available only
in 4:3 format but had lightbox that is easily removed from cabinet and
easily carried by two people or very strong guy.

In-home service is expensive but that's up to your choice, carry in is
slightly cheaper and actually gives service tech do better job on
adjustments with their tools right there at their fingertips.

For any reason, servicing that RCA set like yours, a shop that is RCA
service-authorized is necessary.

Cheers,

Wizard
 
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