On Wed, 19 Dec 2018 14:52:02 -0000, Snicker <snick_at_invalid.invalid> wrote:
In article <op.zt9xmexho5piw3_at_desktop-ga2mpl8.lan>, "William
On Wed, 19 Dec 2018 14:32:29 -0000, Snicker <snick_at_invalid.invalid> wrote:
In article <op.zt9w9iqio5piw3_at_desktop-ga2mpl8.lan>, "William
On Wed, 19 Dec 2018 14:23:48 -0000, William Gothberg <"William Gothberg"@internet.co.is> wrote:
On Wed, 19 Dec 2018 12:51:53 -0000, Art Todesco <actodesco_at_yahoo.com> wrote:
On 12/19/2018 7:35 AM, William Gothberg wrote:
On Wed, 19 Dec 2018 12:18:54 -0000, Rod Speed <rod.speed.aaa_at_gmail.com
William Gothberg <"William Gothberg"@internet.co.is> wrote
Those fake starters people put into fluorescent fittings when they
an LED tube.... what's inside?
A bit of wire between the pins.
An LED tube draws power from the two ends, I looked inside one of my
and the two pins at each end are shorted together.
They don't all do it the same way.
The LED PSU takes power from both ends if you see what I mean, it
live at one end and neutral at the other. So why on earth would you
anything in the starter, even if you left the ballast in?
Because the simple bimetallic strip starters have the pins
on the starter connected initially and not connected
when it warms up due to the current between the pins.
Surely it's best to have the starter open circuit, i.e. just remove it.
Some do work like that.
Does it perhaps in some way negate the inductive nature of the
be nicer to the LED PSU?
No it does not. So its better, but not as easy, to disconnect the
The properly made LED tubes are connected live at one end and neutral at
the other. You just remove the starter, and the LEDs operate in series
with the ballast (or directly to the mains if you can be bothered
opening the casing and shorting/removing the ballast).
So the tubes where they have live and neutral on the same end, require
supplying a fake starter instead of just removing it, surely an
unnecessary extra expense. The only reason I can find for making them
like this is some daft safety regulation about having live and neutral
at opposite ends. Better insulation required to meet safety standards
incase you grab live and neutral with your two hands? Surely either the
casing of the LED tube is metal, which means you can't get a different
voltage on each hand, or plastic, which means it won't conduct power to
I just bought some LED 4' tubes that can be wired any way you want. I
don't know the internal circuitry, but I do plan to dissect one to find
out. These can be powered from one end (either one), both ends and,
when powering from both ends, the pins can be shunted or not. There
seems to be no combination that doesn't work!
I can think of a way it might be connected, but please look inside to satisfy our curiosity!
Kinda like a bridge rectifier but with 4 inputs instead of 2 - any pin of the tube being positive goes through a positive diode, any pin being negative goes through a negative diode (as in connected backwards).
You know, a diagram would be easier: https://www.dropbox.com/s/clfblkmb6pyqyl8/tube.jpg?dl=0
In fact they could just use two bridge rectifiers already in packages, and connect one to one end of the tube and one to the other, with the output of both connected to the PSU bulk capacitor. This would make the circuit I drew above.
Do you always answer yourself?
I was adding information to my previous post. Was that too difficult for you?
Well stop acting like an attention whore.
How on earth is adding something I forgot in the original post seeking attention?