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micky
Guest

Tue Jun 04, 2019 9:45 pm   



In sci.electronics.repair, on Tue, 4 Jun 2019 11:08:26 -0500, Mark Lloyd
<not_at_mail.invalid> wrote:

Quote:
On 6/3/19 1:18 PM, micky wrote:

[snip]

As I said, with the CFL the interference could be lessened by turing the
radio off frequency a little**, but with the first LED bulb, I turned
the tuning knob a half turn in each direction, from maybe 88 to 92 MHz
FM. and the hum was the same everywhere, twice as loud as the sound had
been. It's interesting that it interfered with FM reception, which is
less vulnerable than AM, but it appeears, not invulnerable.

**An advantage to analog tuning over digital tuning.

In the eighties I had an old TV (non cable ready). I found that by
setting it to channel 7 and misadjusting the fine tuning, I could get
channel 22 (cable midband, frequency just below that of ch. 7).

BTW, you could get ch. 6 sound on an FM radio.


Wow.

Unrelated but you remind me, Our first TV was a Dumont, with magic eye
tuning. It had continuous tuning like a radio (both gross? and fine
tuning) and the channels 2 to 13 were marked in their approximate
location on the dial, 2 where 1 o'clock would be, and 13 where 11
o'clock would be. I think 2, 3, 4, and 5 were grouped together, then a
space and 6 and 7, then 8 to 13 in a group. Between 7 and 8 were the FM
radio stations, and a swich on the TV would turn off the picture so you
could listen to the radio without running the TV. Unfortunately there
were no FM stations in New Castle, Pa. or even Pittsburgh in 1953 or
1960, none in Indianapolis from 1960 to 64, none in Chicago afaik from
64 to 70, but by the time I got to NYC in '71, they had FM radio.
Unfortunately I didn't still have that television.

micky
Guest

Thu Jun 06, 2019 4:45 am   



In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 3 Jun 2019 21:26:48 -0700, Bob F
<bobnospam_at_gmail.com> wrote:

Quote:
On 6/3/2019 11:18 AM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 3 Jun 2019 06:15:07 -0400, Biff Tannen
biff.tannen_at_127.0.0.1> wrote:

On 6/2/19 9:18 AM, micky wrote:
I've been listening to a weak FM radio station, on a radio, and 2 feet
away was a desk lamp. It used a CFL and I noticed static or some kind
of interference in the reception. It could be lessened by changing the
frequency a little, but the result was still less volume than when the
light was off.

So I figured, LEDs! They won't make interference. Bought Ecosmart.
Then the radio hummed so loud I couldn't hear the station at all.

I will probably go back to incandescent. Any other way to get rid of
the hum?


Probably expensive but if the lievertising is to be believed, these might fix your problem.

https://www.geniecompany.com/garage-door-openers/accessories/led-light-bulb.aspx

It's $19/2 of them, at Home Depot and Amazon, and Amazon has one for
almost $10. Thanks. Expensive but a good idea.

Bob, there's one other bulb in the package. I'll try that

Another model or brand is more likely to make the needed difference.


You're right. I put the noisy LED bulb in the ceiling fixture and now
it's about 5 feet from the radio and doesn't interfere at all.

It's called "daylight" and at 100 eq. watts it gave a very strange
appearance to the room. I'll probably get used to it. They didn't
have anohter low-cost LED at HDepot and ... I'll probably get used to
it. After all, it's "daylight".

pfjw@aol.com
Guest

Thu Jun 06, 2019 12:45 pm   



On Wednesday, June 5, 2019 at 10:47:05 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:

Quote:
It's called "daylight" and at 100 eq. watts it gave a very strange
appearance to the room. I'll probably get used to it. They didn't
have anohter low-cost LED at HDepot and ... I'll probably get used to
it. After all, it's "daylight".


"Daylight" is generally around 5000 - 6500 kelvin. With LED devices, the CRI (Color Rendering Index) for such a (cheap) lamp will be somewhere between 50 and 80, or in other words, pretty wretched. LED lamps with both a high CRI and a high K tend to be costly relative to the cheapies. Strange appearance, indeed.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


Guest

Thu Jun 06, 2019 2:45 pm   



I have the same problem, Sony reciever str-av570, that keeps going into protect mode intermittently, even when the reciever is off, will intermittently do relay click and loudness amber led(s) on the front will glow gradually, off, and repeat till I unplug it. Back in 2003-2004, I took my reciever to a authorized sony service center that did not know how to fix it, but charged me $35 to inspect device anyways. From the replies on this post, looks like a good place to start. Thanks for sharing!

Mark Lloyd
Guest

Thu Jun 06, 2019 4:45 pm   



On 6/5/19 9:47 PM, micky wrote:

[snip]

Quote:
It's called "daylight" and at 100 eq. watts it gave a very strange
appearance to the room. I'll probably get used to it. They didn't
have anohter low-cost LED at HDepot and ... I'll probably get used to
it. After all, it's "daylight".


I find the old "dirty yellow" bulbs looking worse and worse now that
real white is available.

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/

"Now just behold these miserable, blind, and senseless people." [Martin
Luther,"On the Jews and Their Lies",1543]

Chuck
Guest

Thu Jun 06, 2019 4:45 pm   



On Thu, 6 Jun 2019 06:14:14 -0700 (PDT), vhm.14u2c_at_gmail.com wrote:

>I have the same problem, Sony reciever str-av570, that keeps going into protect mode intermittently, even when the reciever is off, will intermittently do relay click and loudness amber led(s) on the front will glow gradually, off, and repeat till I unplug it. Back in 2003-2004, I took my reciever to a authorized sony service center that did not know how to fix it, but charged me $35 to inspect device anyways. From the replies on this post, looks like a good place to start. Thanks for sharing!
Common problem back in the day. Solder a wire from the front panel
circuit board ground to the main board ground and another to the metal
chassis. Tighten all board screws. (Did warranty work for Sony Audio)

Fox's Mercantile
Guest

Thu Jun 06, 2019 8:45 pm   



I put up with the "not quite" white that yellows with age
CFLs and the not instant on simply because they made my
electric bill go way down
Now that LEDs are cheap, I buy them at Wal-Mart. Instant
on and something close to white again.


--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com

Rod Speed
Guest

Thu Jun 06, 2019 8:45 pm   



"Mark Lloyd" <not_at_mail.invalid> wrote in message
news:%9aKE.37664$Ky4.31538_at_fx08.iad...
Quote:
On 6/5/19 9:47 PM, micky wrote:

[snip]

It's called "daylight" and at 100 eq. watts it gave a very strange
appearance to the room. I'll probably get used to it. They didn't
have anohter low-cost LED at HDepot and ... I'll probably get used to
it. After all, it's "daylight".

I find the old "dirty yellow" bulbs looking worse and worse now that real
white is available.


I did have that reaction initially when I installed the Philips Hue lights
right thru my house. Got the dirty yellow starter kit and hated how
yellow it was, even tho I mostly used PAR38 floods and spots inside
the house before that. So I got the fully color controlled bulbs for
the ones after the initial starter kit of 3 bulbs and used the yellow
ones in the bedroom, the room where I store all the beer I brew etc.

Don’t really notice the dirty yellow in the bedroom anymore even
tho it gets used every day. And I now how quite a few of what
Philips call white ambience which can be set to any white you like
but not any color you like like the most expensive bulbs can be.

Peeler
Guest

Thu Jun 06, 2019 9:45 pm   



On Fri, 7 Jun 2019 05:15:15 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


Quote:

I did have that reaction initially when I installed the Philips Hue


I told you already, and I will tell you again: you can shove your Philips
Hue up yours, senile Rodent!

--
Sqwertz to Rot Speed:
"This is just a hunch, but I'm betting you're kinda an argumentative
asshole.
MID: <ev1p6ml7ywd5$.dlg_at_sqwertz.com>

Ralph Mowery
Guest

Thu Jun 06, 2019 11:45 pm   



In article <c-2dnRyQQs9T8WTBnZ2dnUU7-U3NnZ2d_at_giganews.com>,
jdangus_at_att.net says...
Quote:
Now that LEDs are cheap, I buy them at Wal-Mart. Instant
on and something close to white again.





Do you notice that some come on instantly and some seem to have about a
2 second delay. The ones I have with the delay do come on full
brightness as far as I can tell at the end of those 2 seconds.

Mark Lloyd
Guest

Fri Jun 07, 2019 2:45 pm   



On 6/6/19 5:42 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
Quote:
In article <c-2dnRyQQs9T8WTBnZ2dnUU7-U3NnZ2d_at_giganews.com>,
jdangus_at_att.net says...
Now that LEDs are cheap, I buy them at Wal-Mart. Instant
on and something close to white again.

Do you notice that some come on instantly and some seem to have about a
2 second delay. The ones I have with the delay do come on full
brightness as far as I can tell at the end of those 2 seconds.


I had one strange CFL that actually changed color. It would come on
dirty yellow, and a few seconds later turned white.

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/

"Life after death" is an obvious contradiction, unless you're really
into "dynamic redefinition". The "life" that exists afterward COULDN'T
be the same one that just ended irreversibly by "death".


Guest

Sun Jun 30, 2019 3:45 pm   



On Thursday, June 6, 2019 at 9:14:17 AM UTC-4, vhm....@gmail.com wrote:
Quote:
I have the same problem, Sony reciever str-av570, that keeps going into protect mode intermittently, even when
the reciever is off, will intermittently do relay click and loudness amber led(s) on the front will glow gradually,
off, and repeat till I unplug it. Back in 2003-2004, I took my reciever to a authorized sony service center that
did not know how to fix it


Would you spend the money to train somebody to fix something like that 18 years later - especially when you could be addressing more late-model stuff? (I'm just sayin')


Guest

Sat Aug 10, 2019 6:45 pm   



Hello guys i have read alot about this pioneer amp probs and seems all about same issue which is a bad design and mounting the amp inside is very weak depending on back plastic plate which make it easy to break and the whole heavy amp fall inside and causes a mess of short circuits at any unexpected vibration which happens to mine and i tried to fix it up by changing transistors many times and goes blown time after time despite the time waste by ordering those damn transistors and this stereo has a memorable time for me and my family i kept searching for a solution to bring back yo life i find this easy and very cheap instead of keep changing parts by doing this
1- disconnect the tape board ( black ribbon cable comming from main board)
2-buy 120wx2 power amp board(TPA3116D2)powered by 12v from the cable disconnected from tape
3-disconnect the grey ribbon cable from the old amp and split cables marked as RIN-FG-LIN and connect to new amp input then connect R OUT -L OUT to new amp +L +R only no negative need .
4- connect back to the old amp the cables of REF G and FAN and rest of cables keep disconnected.
Now you can bring life back to your old pioneer beast. ..
ENJOY YOUR FAVORITE OLD MUSIC


Guest

Sun Aug 11, 2019 2:45 am   



VERY IMPORTANT NOTE
1-if the amp is falling inside and the plastic plate is broken edges where screws goes in from the back side try to put it back in place and drilling new holes for the screws to hold back in its place and BE SURE THAT THE 2 HEAT SINKS of the transistors upper part is not touching the lower part to prevent short circuits between transistors (cable tie or isolated copper cables by tying them separately to the back plastic plate through vent holes)..
2-support the amp by using metal strip fixed internaly above the amp on the back of the case to the vent fan (there is an plastic arm on top of the fan where you can fix the other end of the metal strip) I use a slot metal cover from old pc and works well for the size and length this way will support the weight of the amp and prevent it ftom falling back inside .
3-MOST IMPORTANT ISSUE is to disable the high voltage from the main power transformer output that generate hi voltage to the amp (no more need for this hi voltage) by desoldering the 3 pins marked as MAIN on the output board of the main power transformer and be sure to discharge the hi voltage that connected to the old amp (grey ribbon cable) marked as -B +B can be discharged by connecting those cables to a 70 watt lamp CARFULLY THEY CONSIST HIGH POWER FROM THE 2 GIANT CAPS and then isolate those cables and leave them disconnected from the old amp.
This procedure must be taken before installing the above mentioned process
Good luck

John-Del
Guest

Sun Aug 11, 2019 2:45 am   



On Saturday, August 10, 2019 at 1:37:06 PM UTC-4, adnanka...@gmail.com wrote:
Quote:
Hello guys i have read alot about this pioneer amp probs and seems all about same issue which is a bad design and mounting the amp inside is very weak depending on back plastic plate which make it easy to break and the whole heavy amp fall inside and causes a mess of short circuits at any unexpected vibration which happens to mine and i tried to fix it up by changing transistors many times and goes blown time after time despite the time waste by ordering those damn transistors and this stereo has a memorable time for me and my family i kept searching for a solution to bring back yo life i find this easy and very cheap instead of keep changing parts by doing this
1- disconnect the tape board ( black ribbon cable comming from main board)
2-buy 120wx2 power amp board(TPA3116D2)powered by 12v from the cable disconnected from tape
3-disconnect the grey ribbon cable from the old amp and split cables marked as RIN-FG-LIN and connect to new amp input then connect R OUT -L OUT to new amp +L +R only no negative need .
4- connect back to the old amp the cables of REF G and FAN and rest of cables keep disconnected.
Now you can bring life back to your old pioneer beast. ..
ENJOY YOUR FAVORITE OLD MUSIC


Why on God's green earth would anyone modify that hunk of garbage just to keep using it. I would be embarrassed for anyone to even see me throwing it out. Besides, I don't see how the 12V tape deck source will provide enough current to drive an output board, at least not above background level.

It may be a stupid design, but those Pioneer amps aren't hard to fix.

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