PRC as a amplifier in GPS question.

"Superman"<"c/- Lois.Lane"@metropolis.com> wrote in message
news:aZ1Ym.63977$ze1.39972_at_news-server.bigpond.net.au...

HeadRush wrote:


"|-|ercules"<h_at_r.c> wrote in message
news:tBsXm.63569$ze1.7151_at_news-server.bigpond.net.au...


I'm thinking of renting a 40 inch LCD TV for my bedroom, but the antenna
socket is in the loungeroom,
rather than run a cable can you still get those TV repeaters? Do they
work with digital?


You do know those "TV repeaters" use brain penetrating microwaves to do
their thing don't you?


Is that true? or is this just a typical aus.tv nonsense post? mine runs at
2.4mhz which is the same as (some) cordless phones. (my cordless phone is
on 5.8mhz) If what you say is true, then it applies to cordless phones as
well.

No, it would run at 2.4GHz, not MHz.

From: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microwave_oven

A microwave oven works by passing non-ionizing microwave radiation, usually
at a frequency of 2.45 gigahertz (a wavelength of 12.24 centimetres (4.82
in)), through the food. Microwave radiation is between common radio and
infrared frequencies.

HR

Yes, I meant GHz not MHz. But the point of my post was to ask if there
is any health risk associated with such transmissions. Now that WiFi
networks are also becoming commonplace one has to wonder. In a microwave
oven the raditaion is confined within it, but with these other devices
it's transmitted throughout the household.

On 2009-12-22, Superman <"c/- Lois.Lane"@metropolis.com> wrote:


Yes, I meant GHz not MHz. But the point of my post was to ask if there
is any health risk associated with such transmissions. Now that WiFi
networks are also becoming commonplace one has to wonder. In a microwave
oven the raditaion is confined within it, but with these other devices
it's transmitted throughout the household.


The microwave oven operates at several hundered times the power level
of the wi-fi equipment. this is greater than the difference between a
hair dryer and an oxy-acetylene torch,

kreed wrote:
On Dec 21, 10:26 am, "David L. Jones" <altz...@gmail.com> wrote:
Trevor Wilson wrote:
"fritz" <yapu...@microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:hgkv7b$c66$02$1_at_news.t-online.com...

"kreed" wrote...

One case where you should NOT buy locally is western made cars
compared to asian imports (japan etc).
Western cars in my experience generally have worse build quality,
outdated design and technology, higher price, less efficiency,
lower life, lower resale values than most Japanese (and even
korean) brands.

Rubbish, the best cars in the world are made by German companies.
They have the highest build quality in the world and they always
lead automotive
technology in all areas -e.g. Porsche, BMW, Mercedes, Audi etc.

**Clearly you have never owned a Japanese car. They are vastly more
reliable than any of the European brands.

Yup.
I had a Mazda 626 that did over 300,000km with hardly any trouble at
all, incredibly reliable, and never got professionally serviced, I
just changed
the consumables myself whenever I got around to it. Worst problem
ever was
the alternator going.
My current Opel has done only half that and it's constantly in the
shop and
has broken down completely on many occasions. I think I've had half
the bits under the bonnet replaced. Has always leaked coolant like
there's no
tomorrow (been in 4 times for coolant leaks alone). And I've had it
dealer serviced since new.

I presume this is Holden badged (Astra, Vectra).

Vectra, 2002.

(I saw when in Russia they also sell an Opel Omega, that is about the
size of our Camry, though here Holden probably sell the Apollo? /
Commodore instead for people interested in that size car)

Some other stuff to look forward to and to help you decide to get rid
of it
When the brake pads wear out, the entire disc has to be replaced as
well I am informed by my mechanic

Your mechanic is wrong.
I've had my pads replaced twice, and the only thing they recommend is to
machine the discs (it's a "would you like fries with that" upsell thing).
The pads actually last a long time.



when informing me of all the problems with 2 Astras that he services
for other customers - telling me how lucky I was I didn't buy one.
Wiring harness problems - intermittent are another favourite he said,
they can take hours to find and repair. Finally, they don't have a
brake light switch on the brake pedal, they use other methods via the
ECU of determining when braking occurs. This made a challenge of
finding why a brake light didn't work. Turned out to be the ECU
faulty. Expensive repair for such a "simple" fault. I would have
felt like installing a switch and wiring it direct to the lights, but
in a service situation, this probably isnt acceptable professionally
and might expose them to future liablity the way things are these
days.

The time I drove a friends 2003 Vectra about 300k distance, I just
about had callouses on my arse from the hard, uncomfortable seat that
was bad no matter how you tried to position yourself. Never again !

I don't find it hard, just the posture position a bit uncomfortable for long
trips.

I've contemplated swapping it for a similar priced used Jap car, but Mr
Murphy gets me every time, so probably better the devil I know.

Dave.

--
================================================
Check out my Electronics Engineering Video Blog & Podcast:http://www.eevblog.com

After 12 months or so of steady decline on prices of the Rigol DS1052E
scope on eBay (and other places), with them being around the US$400 mark
or less for some time now from countless ebay sellers, the price has
suddenly jumped up to US$550 or more from all sellers. There has also been
a sudden and drastic reduction in the number of sellers for this scope.

I've heard that one ebay seller has been acused of "dumping" the scope at
low prices by another seller and has had their listings removed.

and a quote from a cancelled ebay listing:
"We'd like to let you know that eBay has ended an item you were bidding on
for breaching of one or more of our policies. As it's important that eBay
maintains member privacy, we can't tell you exactly why the listing was
removed."

Superman wrote:

This will probably seem like a dumbass question to the tech savvy ppl
here, but here goes..

Q1/ I have a Bigpond cable modem, and I believe that BP connects
using the MAC address of the modem? I also have another cable access
point and modem of the same kind (Motorola Surfboard), so I'm
wondering if there's any way to set the spare modem to the same MAC
address so that I can set up another internet access point?

Q2/ If that's not possible, how do I create another net access point?
Do I use two of these.. http://tinyurl.com/yb5ptns .. one connected
to the modem, and the other where I want the other access point? Or
else how do I do it?

Thanks,

**


The modem goes to a router then tap off that for all connections,
wired or wireless.

Get an 'N' router not the 'G' as you suggest above. Check the specs.

D-LINK Wireless N Router DIR-615 not the D-LINK Wireless G Router
DIR-300 - Check the specs. If keen on DLink

On 1/01/2010 10:05 PM, Rob wrote:

Superman wrote:

This will probably seem like a dumbass question to the tech savvy ppl
here, but here goes..

Q1/ I have a Bigpond cable modem, and I believe that BP connects
using the MAC address of the modem? I also have another cable access
point and modem of the same kind (Motorola Surfboard), so I'm
wondering if there's any way to set the spare modem to the same MAC
address so that I can set up another internet access point?

Q2/ If that's not possible, how do I create another net access point?
Do I use two of these.. http://tinyurl.com/yb5ptns .. one connected
to the modem, and the other where I want the other access point? Or
else how do I do it?

Thanks,

**


The modem goes to a router then tap off that for all connections,
wired or wireless.

Get an 'N' router not the 'G' as you suggest above. Check the specs.

D-LINK Wireless N Router DIR-615 not the D-LINK Wireless G Router
DIR-300 - Check the specs. If keen on DLink

Ok, I get that the router connects to the modem, but what does the
router transmit to? so that I can get another internet connection point?
Do I just use another router of the same kind? Or if I run a cable from
the router it would need to be about 30 or 40 metres long. Would that
length be a problem, eg. signal loss, interference, etc., and what kind
of wall plates/sockets would I use? I also want to do it as cheaply as
possible. The easiest way to do it would be if I could use the spare
modem somehow, and just connect it to the cable point that is already
there.

On 1/01/2010 10:05 PM, Rob wrote:

Superman wrote:

This will probably seem like a dumbass question to the tech savvy ppl
here, but here goes..

Q1/ I have a Bigpond cable modem, and I believe that BP connects
using the MAC address of the modem? I also have another cable access
point and modem of the same kind (Motorola Surfboard), so I'm
wondering if there's any way to set the spare modem to the same MAC
address so that I can set up another internet access point?

Q2/ If that's not possible, how do I create another net access point?
Do I use two of these.. http://tinyurl.com/yb5ptns .. one connected
to the modem, and the other where I want the other access point? Or
else how do I do it?

Thanks,

**


The modem goes to a router then tap off that for all connections,
wired or wireless.

Get an 'N' router not the 'G' as you suggest above. Check the specs.

D-LINK Wireless N Router DIR-615 not the D-LINK Wireless G Router
DIR-300 - Check the specs. If keen on DLink

Ok, I get that the router connects to the modem, but what does the
router transmit to? so that I can get another internet connection point?
Do I just use another router of the same kind? Or if I run a cable from
the router it would need to be about 30 or 40 metres long. Would that
length be a problem, eg. signal loss, interference, etc., and what kind
of wall plates/sockets would I use? I also want to do it as cheaply as
possible. The easiest way to do it would be if I could use the spare
modem somehow, and just connect it to the cable point that is already
there.

go here

Superman wrote:
On 1/01/2010 10:05 PM, Rob wrote:

Superman wrote:

This will probably seem like a dumbass question to the tech savvy
ppl here, but here goes..

Q1/ I have a Bigpond cable modem, and I believe that BP connects
using the MAC address of the modem? I also have another cable
access point and modem of the same kind (Motorola Surfboard), so
I'm wondering if there's any way to set the spare modem to the same
MAC address so that I can set up another internet access point?

Q2/ If that's not possible, how do I create another net access
point? Do I use two of these.. http://tinyurl.com/yb5ptns .. one
connected to the modem, and the other where I want the other access
point? Or else how do I do it?

Thanks,

**


The modem goes to a router then tap off that for all connections,
wired or wireless.

Get an 'N' router not the 'G' as you suggest above. Check the specs.

D-LINK Wireless N Router DIR-615 not the D-LINK Wireless G Router
DIR-300 - Check the specs. If keen on DLink

Ok, I get that the router connects to the modem, but what does the
router transmit to? so that I can get another internet connection
point? Do I just use another router of the same kind? Or if I run a
cable from the router it would need to be about 30 or 40 metres long.
Would that length be a problem, eg. signal loss, interference, etc.,
and what kind of wall plates/sockets would I use? I also want to do
it as cheaply as possible. The easiest way to do it would be if I
could use the spare modem somehow, and just connect it to the cable
point that is already there.

go here
http://www.dd-wrt.com and upgrade the firmware
run the modem end in wireless ap the other end in wds client swap
macs and off you go a seamless connection

"David L. Jones"

After 12 months or so of steady decline on prices of the Rigol DS1052E
scope on eBay (and other places), with them being around the US$400 mark
or less for some time now from countless ebay sellers, the price has
suddenly jumped up to US$550 or more from all sellers. There has also been
a sudden and drastic reduction in the number of sellers for this scope.

I've heard that one ebay seller has been acused of "dumping" the scope at
low prices by another seller and has had their listings removed.

and a quote from a cancelled ebay listing:
"We'd like to let you know that eBay has ended an item you were bidding on
for breaching of one or more of our policies. As it's important that eBay
maintains member privacy, we can't tell you exactly why the listing was
removed."

** Bests Rigol prices seem to be from Aussie on-line dealers at the moment:

Example: A$495 inc delivery

http://purchasenet.com.au/shopping/rigol-ds1052e-digital-storage-osci...

Then there is this similar DSO for A$431 inc delivery:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ATTEN-ADS1062C-60-MHz-2-Channel-Digital-Oscill...

So much scope, so little money.....


Might eBay have pulled the plug cos of complaints that Rigol scopes were
sold in a way that avoided local taxes like GST ??

..... Phil

On 2/01/2010 12:05 AM, atec 7 7 wrote:

Superman wrote:
On 1/01/2010 10:05 PM, Rob wrote:

Superman wrote:

This will probably seem like a dumbass question to the tech savvy
ppl here, but here goes..

Q1/ I have a Bigpond cable modem, and I believe that BP connects
using the MAC address of the modem? I also have another cable
access point and modem of the same kind (Motorola Surfboard), so
I'm wondering if there's any way to set the spare modem to the same
MAC address so that I can set up another internet access point?

Q2/ If that's not possible, how do I create another net access
point? Do I use two of these.. http://tinyurl.com/yb5ptns .. one
connected to the modem, and the other where I want the other access
point? Or else how do I do it?

Thanks,

**


The modem goes to a router then tap off that for all connections,
wired or wireless.

Get an 'N' router not the 'G' as you suggest above. Check the specs.

D-LINK Wireless N Router DIR-615 not the D-LINK Wireless G Router
DIR-300 - Check the specs. If keen on DLink

Ok, I get that the router connects to the modem, but what does the
router transmit to? so that I can get another internet connection
point? Do I just use another router of the same kind? Or if I run a
cable from the router it would need to be about 30 or 40 metres long.
Would that length be a problem, eg. signal loss, interference, etc.,
and what kind of wall plates/sockets would I use? I also want to do
it as cheaply as possible. The easiest way to do it would be if I
could use the spare modem somehow, and just connect it to the cable
point that is already there.

go here
http://www.dd-wrt.com and upgrade the firmware
run the modem end in wireless ap the other end in wds client swap
macs and off you go a seamless connection

thanks but I don't understand any of that! maybe I'll ring Bigpond help.
but that's an oxymoron isn't it.

pretty much

After 12 months or so of steady decline on prices of the Rigol DS1052E scope
on eBay (and other places), with them being around the US$400 mark or less
for some time now from countless ebay sellers, the price has suddenly jumped
up to US$550 or more from all sellers. There has also been a sudden and
drastic reduction in the number of sellers for this scope.

I've heard that one ebay seller has been acused of "dumping" the scope at
low prices by another seller and has had their listings removed.

and a quote from a cancelled ebay listing:
"We'd like to let you know that eBay has ended an item you were bidding on
for breaching of one or more of our policies. As it's important that eBay
maintains member privacy, we can't tell you exactly why the listing was
removed."

Dealextreme still have them for US$400 though, better get in quick...
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.30573

Dave.

"Superman"<"the _man_of_steel"@metropolis.com> wrote in message
news:Fal%m.66141$ze1.4569_at_news-server.bigpond.net.au...

On 1/01/2010 6:26 PM, Clocky wrote:


"Superman"<"the _man_of_steel"@metropolis.com> wrote in message
news:oNg%m.66087$ze1.7617_at_news-server.bigpond.net.au...


On 1/01/2010 4:39 PM, Clocky wrote:


"Superman"<"the _man_of_steel"@metropolis.com> wrote in message
news:xT%_m.65951$ze1.33218_at_news-server.bigpond.net.au...


On 31/12/2009 5:17 PM, A Little Bit wrote:

On Thu, 31 Dec 2009 16:08:09 +1100, "Lu R"<whome_at_hotmail.com
wrote:

I bought one for xmas at Myers for $2,719 reduced from $4,233
RRP...THE
BEST
PICTURE of ANY TV's EVER!! Picture sharpness and the deepest blacks
are
just
out of this world.. Planet Earth on Bluray is to die for!! The intro
to
Dark
Knight in Imax HD Bluray is sooo clear your jaw will drop I swear.
Just
buy
the TV, I promise you will never look back.

I see your 46" and raise you 9"...

I fell in love with the 55" Samsung LED TV, at Myer it is $3909. RRP
at
Samsung is $6499.
The thing is only 29 mm thick and weighs a paltry 29kg. Doesn't chew
much power, either.

I am due for a big tax refund in the next few weeks and my existing
42"
plasma set will be
retired to the bedroom.

Plasmas are still better- better pic, more natural. Check out the
Samsung
58" plasma. ($4.5K)


Not these days, the Samsung LCD and LEDs are awesome and without the
drawbacks of plasmas.


Have you seen the Samsung Series 8 Plasmas? Picture is better, more
natural than the LCD's. And what are the 'drawbacks of plasmas'? They
use
more power and run hotter but that's about it.


As if that isn't enough, they don't last anywhere near as long and still
suffer from the static image problem.


How long do you want them to last? current technology is quoting 60,000
hours to half life, which translates to at least 50 years lifespan for 3-4
hours per day viewing! most ppl would upgrade well before then I daresay.

Here you go again stating meaningless figures.

In the real world plasmas do
not last as long as LCD technology with excess heat being one of the
reasons.

And burn in is not the problem it used to be with current
technology, and all major brands have screen savers anyway.

Ah, so all these problems are irrelevant

but your problem with the Samsung
LCD is motion blur... which is so minor it is indistinguishable.

But if you're a greenie you'd buy an LCD for environmental reasons I guess.


Or you don't like wasting money on excess power usage for no direct benefit.

Meanwhile LCD/LED's still have the motion problem eg.
Samsung Series 8 Plasmas have a response
time of .001ms, compared to 2ms for their 55" LED. Plasmas also have a
much wider viewing angle, and LED's are still only an LCD but with
different illumination.

I doubt you would be able to tell the difference in a double blind trial.
(so to speak)


Nope. I can always tell if I'm watching a plasma or LCD/LED. Another
aspect of difference is what I call the 3D effect. LCD's always seem to
have a 'flatter' picture.


You can't know without doing a double blind trial where bias is eliminated.

On 1/01/2010 10:05 PM, Rob wrote:

Superman wrote:

This will probably seem like a dumbass question to the tech savvy
ppl here, but here goes..

Q1/ I have a Bigpond cable modem, and I believe that BP connects
using the MAC address of the modem? I also have another cable access
point and modem of the same kind (Motorola Surfboard), so I'm
wondering if there's any way to set the spare modem to the same MAC
address so that I can set up another internet access point?

Q2/ If that's not possible, how do I create another net access
point? Do I use two of these.. http://tinyurl.com/yb5ptns .. one
connected to the modem, and the other where I want the other access
point? Or else how do I do it?

Thanks,

**


The modem goes to a router then tap off that for all connections,
wired or wireless.

Get an 'N' router not the 'G' as you suggest above. Check the specs.

D-LINK Wireless N Router DIR-615 not the D-LINK Wireless G Router
DIR-300 - Check the specs. If keen on DLink

Ok, I get that the router connects to the modem, but what does the
router transmit to?

so that I can get another internet connection
point? Do I just use another router of the same kind? Or if I run a cable
from the router it would need to be about 30 or 40 metres long. Would that
length be a problem, eg. signal loss, interference, etc.

and what kind of wall plates/sockets would I use? I also want to do it as
cheaply as
possible.

The easiest way to do it would be if I could use the spare
modem somehow, and just connect it to the cable point that is already
there.

Superman" <"the _man_of_steel wrote:
On 1/01/2010 10:05 PM, Rob wrote:

Superman wrote:

This will probably seem like a dumbass question to the tech savvy
ppl here, but here goes..

Q1/ I have a Bigpond cable modem, and I believe that BP connects
using the MAC address of the modem? I also have another cable access
point and modem of the same kind (Motorola Surfboard), so I'm
wondering if there's any way to set the spare modem to the same MAC
address so that I can set up another internet access point?

Q2/ If that's not possible, how do I create another net access
point? Do I use two of these.. http://tinyurl.com/yb5ptns .. one
connected to the modem, and the other where I want the other access
point? Or else how do I do it?

Thanks,

**


The modem goes to a router then tap off that for all connections,
wired or wireless.

Get an 'N' router not the 'G' as you suggest above. Check the specs.

D-LINK Wireless N Router DIR-615 not the D-LINK Wireless G Router
DIR-300 - Check the specs. If keen on DLink

Ok, I get that the router connects to the modem, but what does the
router transmit to?

Each computer, via cable Ethernet or Wireless.

so that I can get another internet connection
point? Do I just use another router of the same kind? Or if I run a cable
from the router it would need to be about 30 or 40 metres long. Would that
length be a problem, eg. signal loss, interference, etc.

No. 30 or 40 meters is easily possible with Ethernet.

and what kind of wall plates/sockets would I use? I also want to do it as
cheaply as
possible.

Wireless is the easiest and probably the cheapest solution. Get a WiFi card
or dongle for your computer.

The easiest way to do it would be if I could use the spare
modem somehow, and just connect it to the cable point that is already
there.

Forget trying to use the extra bigpond modem, it's not going to work.

The Bigpond modem plugs into the "Internet" input on the rounter, you then
plug all your computers into the rounter.
If you get a wireless router (you should, even if you don't need it now)
then you can connect as many computers as you want using the wireless
connection, as well as the ones connected directly to the router.

I use a DIR-300 D-Link wireless router with my bigpond modem, but there are
countless others.

Dave.