power strip project completed

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Jon
Guest

Sun Jan 15, 2012 9:31 pm

I completed my power strip project and here is a picture of it:

http://jons-math.bravehost.com/powerstrip.html

Jon

P E Schoen
Guest

Sun Jan 15, 2012 10:52 pm

"Jon" wrote in message
news:lradned4sLM_qo7SnZ2dnUVZ_rOdnZ2d_at_earthlink.com...

Quote:

I completed my power strip project and here is a picture of it:

http://jons-math.bravehost.com/powerstrip.html

Looks pretty good. But the ground pins should be UP and not DOWN, according
to some advice. http://joneakes.com/jons-fixit-database/939

I thought this was a new requirement of the code, but perhaps not.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_outlet
http://www.providentelectric.com/faq.php
http://ecmweb.com/nec/2011-nec-changes-20101101/

It makes some sense to have the ground pin UP, in case the plug is not fully
engaged and a piece of metal such as a coat hanger or knife happens to fall
onto the pins. If it strikes the ground pin only, it will be safe to touch,
and if it also contacts the live pin, it will cause a short which should
trip the breaker. However, some (most?) angle cords are made so that they
work best with outlets having the ground pin DOWN.

Not a big issue, and your project appears to have solved your problem
admirably.

And here's a cool gizmo:
http://www.gizmo-central.com/computer-gizmos/accessory/pyramid-power-plug-solves-wall-wart-problems/
and:
http://www.toolfact.com/p/ge-50759-6-grounded-outlet-in-wall-adapter-white/B0009HKEXM

(I think) some wall-warts now have an outlet built in so you don't lose a
receptacle. But you can't stack very many wall-warts on top of each other.

Paul

Jim Thompson
Guest

Sun Jan 15, 2012 11:05 pm

On Sun, 15 Jan 2012 16:52:04 -0500, "P E Schoen" <paul_at_peschoen.com>
wrote:

Quote:

"Jon" wrote in message
news:lradned4sLM_qo7SnZ2dnUVZ_rOdnZ2d_at_earthlink.com...

I completed my power strip project and here is a picture of it:

http://jons-math.bravehost.com/powerstrip.html

Looks pretty good. But the ground pins should be UP and not DOWN, according
to some advice. http://joneakes.com/jons-fixit-database/939

I thought this was a new requirement of the code, but perhaps not.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_outlet
http://www.providentelectric.com/faq.php
http://ecmweb.com/nec/2011-nec-changes-20101101/

It makes some sense to have the ground pin UP, in case the plug is not fully
engaged and a piece of metal such as a coat hanger or knife happens to fall
onto the pins. If it strikes the ground pin only, it will be safe to touch,
and if it also contacts the live pin, it will cause a short which should
trip the breaker. However, some (most?) angle cords are made so that they
work best with outlets having the ground pin DOWN.

Not a big issue, and your project appears to have solved your problem
admirably.

And here's a cool gizmo:
http://www.gizmo-central.com/computer-gizmos/accessory/pyramid-power-plug-solves-wall-wart-problems/
and:
http://www.toolfact.com/p/ge-50759-6-grounded-outlet-in-wall-adapter-white/B0009HKEXM

(I think) some wall-warts now have an outlet built in so you don't lose a
receptacle. But you can't stack very many wall-warts on top of each other.

Paul

Yep. Looks worth building. I've been contemplating re-doing my
office to get rid of the rat's nest Smile

Don Y
Guest

Sun Jan 15, 2012 11:27 pm

Hi Paul,

On 1/15/2012 2:52 PM, P E Schoen wrote:

Quote:

Last time I checked, it wasn't. But, if you look in places like
hospitals, you will note the ground is UP. In residences, people
seem to like the "smiley face"version with it DOWN.

(When I replaced ours, I made them all UP)

Quote:

It makes some sense to have the ground pin UP, in case the plug is not
fully engaged and a piece of metal such as a coat hanger or knife
happens to fall onto the pins. If it strikes the ground pin only, it
will be safe to touch, and if it also contacts the live pin, it will
cause a short which should trip the breaker.

Exactly.

Quote:

However, some (most?) angle
cords are made so that they work best with outlets having the ground pin
DOWN.

Yes. Though even this isn't universally true. I made a point of
replacing cords on dishwasher, disposal, refrigerator, etc. to
select cords with ground UP so the cord's natural repose would
be downward.

The power strip I mounted in this "email" workstation has outlets
positioned so that (straight) cords can trail downwards as well
as (typical) wall warts plugged into the side to similarly
trail downwards. (I couldn't mount a power strip to the
underside of the worksurface as I typically do)

Fred Bloggs
Guest

Sun Jan 15, 2012 11:50 pm

On Jan 15, 3:31 pm, "Jon" <intre...@bellaire.tv> wrote:

Quote:

I completed my power strip project and here is a picture of it:

http://jons-math.bravehost.com/powerstrip.html

Jon

Nice neat job, Jon.

Martin Riddle
Guest

Mon Jan 16, 2012 12:59 am

"P E Schoen" <paul_at_peschoen.com> wrote in message
news:jevhqb$mi6$1_at_dont-email.me...

Quote:

I don't see anything mentioned on the ecmweb site. I have NEC2008. If
you have a section I can look it up.

Cheers

Jim Thompson
Guest

Mon Jan 16, 2012 1:02 am

On Sun, 15 Jan 2012 18:59:49 -0500, "Martin Riddle"
<martin_rid_at_verizon.net> wrote:

Quote:

"P E Schoen" <paul_at_peschoen.com> wrote in message
news:jevhqb$mi6$1_at_dont-email.me...
"Jon" wrote in message
news:lradned4sLM_qo7SnZ2dnUVZ_rOdnZ2d_at_earthlink.com...

I completed my power strip project and here is a picture of it:

http://jons-math.bravehost.com/powerstrip.html

Looks pretty good. But the ground pins should be UP and not DOWN,
according to some advice. http://joneakes.com/jons-fixit-database/939

I thought this was a new requirement of the code, but perhaps not.
snip

I don't see anything mentioned on the ecmweb site. I have NEC2008. If
you have a section I can look it up.

Cheers

Ray
Guest

Mon Jan 16, 2012 1:26 am

"Don Y" <this_at_isnotme.com> wrote in message
news:jevjsl$m92$1_at_speranza.aioe.org...

Quote:

Hi Paul,

On 1/15/2012 2:52 PM, P E Schoen wrote:

Looks pretty good. But the ground pins should be UP and not DOWN,
according to some advice. http://joneakes.com/jons-fixit-database/939

I thought this was a new requirement of the code, but perhaps not.

Last time I checked, it wasn't. But, if you look in places like
hospitals, you will note the ground is UP. In residences, people
seem to like the "smiley face"version with it DOWN.

positioned so that (straight) cords can trail downwards as well
as (typical) wall warts plugged into the side to similarly
trail downwards. (I couldn't mount a power strip to the
underside of the worksurface as I typically do

My understanding is that the receptacle should be mounted so that the ground
pin which is longer,
would be the last to disconnect, This depends on how high the receptacle
is mounted .
Ordinarily this would be with the ground pin down,

M

Oppie
Guest

Mon Jan 16, 2012 1:49 am

How do you like that Deoxit? I've had a few good experiences with it.
Dog leashes? How many critters do you have? We've got four cocker spaniels.

Did you put any circuit breaker or fuse in the outlet boxes? Should be 15
Amps or whatever the wire gauge of your hospital plug is rated for
(whichever is less).

"Jon" <intrepid_at_bellaire.tv> wrote in message
news:lradned4sLM_qo7SnZ2dnUVZ_rOdnZ2d_at_earthlink.com...

Quote:

I completed my power strip project and here is a picture of it:

http://jons-math.bravehost.com/powerstrip.html

Jon

Don Y
Guest

Mon Jan 16, 2012 2:43 am

On 1/15/2012 5:26 PM, Ray wrote:

Quote:

"Don Y"<this_at_isnotme.com> wrote in message
news:jevjsl$m92$1_at_speranza.aioe.org...
Hi Paul,

On 1/15/2012 2:52 PM, P E Schoen wrote:

Looks pretty good. But the ground pins should be UP and not DOWN,
according to some advice. http://joneakes.com/jons-fixit-database/939

I thought this was a new requirement of the code, but perhaps not.

Last time I checked, it wasn't. But, if you look in places like
hospitals, you will note the ground is UP. In residences, people
seem to like the "smiley face"version with it DOWN.

positioned so that (straight) cords can trail downwards as well
as (typical) wall warts plugged into the side to similarly
trail downwards. (I couldn't mount a power strip to the
underside of the worksurface as I typically do

My understanding is that the receptacle should be mounted so that the ground
pin which is longer,
would be the last to disconnect, This depends on how high the receptacle
is mounted .

That was the rationale I used in my initial assessment.
But, even that doesn't give you a reliable way of
resolving the issue: is a (typically) low-mounted
outlet more likely to encounter stress on a plugged
cord from *below* or above? If you trip over a cord,
then the force might be (slightly) downward -- depending
on the cord's length and the point ast which you snagged
it. OTOH, if you had tugged on it with hands (even stooped
over), then the force would tend to be upward.
And how do you resolve countertop outlets? Outlets
mounted below the counter?

Then, I considered the "what if something drops onto partially
exposed pins?" rationale...

At about the same time, I had the (ahem) "privilege" of being
a guest in a local E.R. and used the (copious!) idle time
to survey how *they* did things...

> Ordinarily this would be with the ground pin down,

miso
Guest

Mon Jan 16, 2012 3:47 am

I never heard of the ground pin up, but it makes perfect sense. I wonder
why nobody thought of that sooner?

Sylvia Else
Guest

Mon Jan 16, 2012 3:54 am

On 16/01/2012 7:31 AM, Jon wrote:

Quote:

I completed my power strip project and here is a picture of it:

http://jons-math.bravehost.com/powerstrip.html

Jon

I hope those metal boxes are grounded.

Sylvia.

nuny@bid.nes
Guest

Mon Jan 16, 2012 5:53 am

On Jan 15, 12:31 pm, "Jon" <intre...@bellaire.tv> wrote:

Quote:

I completed my power strip project and here is a picture of it:

http://jons-math.bravehost.com/powerstrip.html

I love it! I especially like the housing; any problems, you just pop
the latch and the guts are freely available for troubleshooting.

My only quibble would be; how thick is the metal on those toolboxes?
Some plugs need more insertion force than others; I'd worry about
bending the box with some I've run across.

(Google Groups doesn't recognize sci.engr.electrical)

Mark L. Fergerson

Jon
Guest

Mon Jan 16, 2012 7:56 am

First I bought a 2 ml tube. It worked so well that I bought a 24 ml bottle.
No more dropped cable internet connection. I used the Deoxit at the
splitter and haven't had a problem since. It needs redone about once every
couple of months. We have one dog, mixed breed. There's no breaker or fuse
in the outlet boxes, but I currently have it plugged into a surge suppressor
with a breaker on it. I need to ground out the metal tool boxes.

"Oppie" wrote in message news:BxKQq.4937$UT4.975_at_newsfe03.iad...

How do you like that Deoxit? I've had a few good experiences with it.
Dog leashes? How many critters do you have? We've got four cocker spaniels.

Did you put any circuit breaker or fuse in the outlet boxes? Should be 15
Amps or whatever the wire gauge of your hospital plug is rated for
(whichever is less).

"Jon" <intrepid_at_bellaire.tv> wrote in message
news:lradned4sLM_qo7SnZ2dnUVZ_rOdnZ2d_at_earthlink.com...

Quote:

I completed my power strip project and here is a picture of it:

http://jons-math.bravehost.com/powerstrip.html

Jon

miso
Guest

Mon Jan 16, 2012 10:28 am

FWIW, you can get DeOxit at Fry's as an aerosol.

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