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OT--Actual elecytronics repair question

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Meat Plow
Guest

Sun Jan 16, 2011 12:57 am   



On Sat, 15 Jan 2011 21:13:39 +0000, Baron wrote:

Quote:
Meat Plow Inscribed thus:

On Sat, 15 Jan 2011 17:43:05 +0000, Baron wrote:

Jeff Liebermann Inscribed thus:

On Thu, 13 Jan 2011 21:37:02 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow
mhywatt_at_yahoo.com> wrote:

No, tapping on it will not induce micro-phonics but will often lessen
the howl.

Well, if it were "grounding", then banging on the case would have no
effect (unless there were some screws loose).

Incidentally, I tried my VX-5 turn on/off times. It took about 1
second to turn on, and the same to turn off. Pushing the button to
turn off was *NOT* instantaneous. I had to hold it for 1 sec. It's
been like that since new, so there's been no deterioration. At this
point, I don't know if it's a firmware issue, settings issue, or
dirty
keyboard. Save, reset and reload seems the easiest to do first.

Once the radio is on, the howl goes away, maybe after 10 minutes.

Something is getting warm perhaps?

We have it here due to severe thunderstorms with large hail, damaging
winds, localized flooding, micro-bursts and tornadoes.

That's why I like California. Other than earthquakes and government,
we don't have much in the way to disasters here.

... I had just purchased a Dodge 4x4 in the spring. I was out chasing
a storm around and got pelted by some golf ball sized hail. That
ended my chasing days. I don't have a beater that I care about
looking like someone took a hammer to it.

Ouch. I've never even seen a tornado, so I have no idea what it
might
be like. Raining golf balls sounds like no fun. Yes, Skywarn has
its place in your part of the country.


This thing doesn't have a backup battery does it ? If so have you
replaced it !

I think it stores in erasable prom but can't be sure. I had it open
once and don't recall seeing anything big enough to be a supercap or
battery. It's really miniaturized.


A friend of mine had a HT, Icom I think, with a 2021 battery in it. It
went bananas changing channels when you pressed TX. Turned out that the
battery was the problem. Now I don't know whether it was low voltage or
corrosion because it was repaired by the supplier.

Sadly he's now silent key, so I can't go and ask him. Come to think
about it my FT290 has a battery in it... I'll have to check that !

I'll have another look when I pull it apart to clean the conductive pad
on the power button. I'm sure there are no 3 volt lithium cells in it in
the 20xx size.



--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

Meat Plow
Guest

Sun Jan 16, 2011 1:10 am   



On Sat, 15 Jan 2011 13:25:29 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

Quote:
On Sat, 15 Jan 2011 20:54:48 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow <mhywatt_at_yahoo.com
wrote:

I think it stores in erasable prom but can't be sure. I had it open once
and don't recall seeing anything big enough to be a supercap or battery.
It's really miniaturized.

I'm too lazy to dig out the schematic, but I guess(tm) it's NVRAM of
some sort. I don't see a coin cell inside. Some inside photos:
http://www.mods.dk/picture.php?brandid=7&model=vx-5r> Registration
required to see them full size.

Yeah I got the schematic around somewhere, to lazy to dig it up.

Quote:
Note the big white circle that is silk screen to the PCB. That's where
the speaker magnet is positioned. I suspect that if you place some foam
tape to put some pressure on the PCB, it might reduce the microphonics.

I think i read that suggestion a long time ago too.

Quote:
Also, two reasons it's only on 440Mhz. It might be a seperate VCO
oscillator for each band, and the LO multiplier ratio is higher for 440
than for the other bands.

Understood.

Quote:
Incidentally, I sorta blundered across this BNC to SMA adapter made
specifically for various Yaesu handhelds. Looks better than the easily
broken adapters I've been using.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350298285336> There
a bunch of others with similar design available.

Yeah I have a couple SMA - BNC adapters. Bought them at a ham fest a good
while back. If you are going to use the SMA with an external antenna in
your home or vehicle they make an adaptor with coax inbetween connectors.
I have one that has an SMA on one end, a couple feet of very thing 50 ohm
coax (not sure the number but it's half as thin or more as RG58/U) and a
SO239 on the other. Beats using a BNC - SO239 adapter.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

Michael A. Terrell
Guest

Sun Jan 16, 2011 6:25 am   



Meat Plow wrote:
Quote:

On Sat, 15 Jan 2011 13:25:29 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Sat, 15 Jan 2011 20:54:48 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow <mhywatt_at_yahoo.com
wrote:

I think it stores in erasable prom but can't be sure. I had it open once
and don't recall seeing anything big enough to be a supercap or battery.
It's really miniaturized.

I'm too lazy to dig out the schematic, but I guess(tm) it's NVRAM of
some sort. I don't see a coin cell inside. Some inside photos:
http://www.mods.dk/picture.php?brandid=7&model=vx-5r> Registration
required to see them full size.

Yeah I got the schematic around somewhere, to lazy to dig it up.

Note the big white circle that is silk screen to the PCB. That's where
the speaker magnet is positioned. I suspect that if you place some foam
tape to put some pressure on the PCB, it might reduce the microphonics.

I think i read that suggestion a long time ago too.

Also, two reasons it's only on 440Mhz. It might be a seperate VCO
oscillator for each band, and the LO multiplier ratio is higher for 440
than for the other bands.

Understood.

Incidentally, I sorta blundered across this BNC to SMA adapter made
specifically for various Yaesu handhelds. Looks better than the easily
broken adapters I've been using.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350298285336> There
a bunch of others with similar design available.

Yeah I have a couple SMA - BNC adapters. Bought them at a ham fest a good
while back. If you are going to use the SMA with an external antenna in
your home or vehicle they make an adaptor with coax inbetween connectors.
I have one that has an SMA on one end, a couple feet of very thing 50 ohm
coax (not sure the number but it's half as thin or more as RG58/U) and a
SO239 on the other. Beats using a BNC - SO239 adapter.


RG-174?


--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

Meat Plow
Guest

Sun Jan 16, 2011 8:33 pm   



On Sun, 16 Jan 2011 00:25:40 -0500, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Quote:
Meat Plow wrote:

On Sat, 15 Jan 2011 13:25:29 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Sat, 15 Jan 2011 20:54:48 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow
mhywatt_at_yahoo.com> wrote:

I think it stores in erasable prom but can't be sure. I had it open
once and don't recall seeing anything big enough to be a supercap or
battery. It's really miniaturized.

I'm too lazy to dig out the schematic, but I guess(tm) it's NVRAM of
some sort. I don't see a coin cell inside. Some inside photos:
http://www.mods.dk/picture.php?brandid=7&model=vx-5r> Registration
required to see them full size.

Yeah I got the schematic around somewhere, to lazy to dig it up.

Note the big white circle that is silk screen to the PCB. That's
where the speaker magnet is positioned. I suspect that if you place
some foam tape to put some pressure on the PCB, it might reduce the
microphonics.

I think i read that suggestion a long time ago too.

Also, two reasons it's only on 440Mhz. It might be a seperate VCO
oscillator for each band, and the LO multiplier ratio is higher for
440 than for the other bands.

Understood.

Incidentally, I sorta blundered across this BNC to SMA adapter made
specifically for various Yaesu handhelds. Looks better than the
easily broken adapters I've been using.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350298285336
There a bunch of others with similar design available.

Yeah I have a couple SMA - BNC adapters. Bought them at a ham fest a
good while back. If you are going to use the SMA with an external
antenna in your home or vehicle they make an adaptor with coax
inbetween connectors. I have one that has an SMA on one end, a couple
feet of very thing 50 ohm coax (not sure the number but it's half as
thin or more as RG58/U) and a SO239 on the other. Beats using a BNC -
SO239 adapter.


RG-174?

Could have been. About the right diameter.



--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

Michael A. Terrell
Guest

Sun Jan 16, 2011 10:38 pm   



Meat Plow wrote:
Quote:

On Sun, 16 Jan 2011 00:25:40 -0500, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Meat Plow wrote:

On Sat, 15 Jan 2011 13:25:29 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Sat, 15 Jan 2011 20:54:48 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow
mhywatt_at_yahoo.com> wrote:

I think it stores in erasable prom but can't be sure. I had it open
once and don't recall seeing anything big enough to be a supercap or
battery. It's really miniaturized.

I'm too lazy to dig out the schematic, but I guess(tm) it's NVRAM of
some sort. I don't see a coin cell inside. Some inside photos:
http://www.mods.dk/picture.php?brandid=7&model=vx-5r> Registration
required to see them full size.

Yeah I got the schematic around somewhere, to lazy to dig it up.

Note the big white circle that is silk screen to the PCB. That's
where the speaker magnet is positioned. I suspect that if you place
some foam tape to put some pressure on the PCB, it might reduce the
microphonics.

I think i read that suggestion a long time ago too.

Also, two reasons it's only on 440Mhz. It might be a seperate VCO
oscillator for each band, and the LO multiplier ratio is higher for
440 than for the other bands.

Understood.

Incidentally, I sorta blundered across this BNC to SMA adapter made
specifically for various Yaesu handhelds. Looks better than the
easily broken adapters I've been using.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350298285336
There a bunch of others with similar design available.

Yeah I have a couple SMA - BNC adapters. Bought them at a ham fest a
good while back. If you are going to use the SMA with an external
antenna in your home or vehicle they make an adaptor with coax
inbetween connectors. I have one that has an SMA on one end, a couple
feet of very thing 50 ohm coax (not sure the number but it's half as
thin or more as RG58/U) and a SO239 on the other. Beats using a BNC -
SO239 adapter.


RG-174?

Could have been. About the right diameter.


I have a 1000 foot spool under my main workbench to make custom
probes with.


--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

Jeff Liebermann
Guest

Mon Jan 17, 2011 3:13 am   



On Sun, 16 Jan 2011 16:38:37 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.terrell_at_earthlink.net> wrote:

Quote:
RG-174?

Could have been. About the right diameter.

I have a 1000 foot spool under my main workbench to make custom
probes with.

I prefer LMR100, RG316, or RG188. Most of the pigtails I've bought
use RG-316. I don't have a 1000ft roll but do have a tangled mess of
indeterminant length buried under the bench.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl_at_cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Michael A. Terrell
Guest

Mon Jan 17, 2011 6:00 pm   



Jeff Liebermann wrote:
Quote:

On Sun, 16 Jan 2011 16:38:37 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
mike.terrell_at_earthlink.net> wrote:

RG-174?

Could have been. About the right diameter.

I have a 1000 foot spool under my main workbench to make custom
probes with.

I prefer LMR100, RG316, or RG188. Most of the pigtails I've bought
use RG-316. I don't have a 1000ft roll but do have a tangled mess of
indeterminant length buried under the bench.


I paid $20 for it, and it works fine for that use. I also have rolls
of silver plated double shielded teflon coax, but why waste it?


--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.


Guest

Mon May 04, 2020 8:45 pm   



On Tuesday, January 11, 2011 at 2:31:52 PM UTC-5, Meat Plow wrote:
Quote:
Yaesu VX-5R tri-band hand held. Momentary contact power on/off button.

I've owned this radio for 9 or 10 years. Recently I have to push several
times on this rubber on/off button to get the radio to come on. But it
always takes just one touch to turn it off. And the radio works fine
otherwise including all the other buttons. Just have to play around
pressing the button maybe three/four/five times. Sometimes it powers on
when pressed once! But always shuts off with just one easy push.
This indicates to me that it's not a problem with button contact but
rather a microprocessor problem.

Discuss.



--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse


I've had this HT apart a half dozen times to clean the contacts and buttons.. It seemed each time the cleaning effort worked for less than the previous time. This last time was desperate. I put a tiny piece of copper foil on the bottom of the rubber button, held in place by a drop of Elmer's glue. So far, it's working well. KB1KXJ

HW
Guest

Mon May 04, 2020 10:45 pm   



On Mon, 4 May 2020 12:21:05 -0700 (PDT), 3daral3_at_gmail.com wrote:

>clean the contacts and buttons. It seemed each time the cleaning effort worked for less than the previous time.

Yes, that's the way it works. Every time you clean them, you remove
some more of the conductive coating.

They sell small conductive rubber pads intended to be glued onto the
existing pads. I have never tried them, though. Using metal might be
hard on the contacts.

Allodoxaphobia
Guest

Tue May 05, 2020 5:45 pm   



On Mon, 04 May 2020 23:32:17 +0200, HW wrote:
Quote:
On Mon, 4 May 2020 12:21:05 -0700 (PDT), 3daral3_at_gmail.com wrote:

clean the contacts and buttons. It seemed each time the cleaning
effort worked for less than the previous time.

Yes, that's the way it works. Every time you clean them, you remove
some more of the conductive coating.

They sell small conductive rubber pads intended to be glued onto the
existing pads. I have never tried them, though. Using metal might be
hard on the contacts.


Do "they" even sell "conductive paint" to repair rear window defoggers
anymore? They came viz a little finger nail polish bottle and brush.
I came across an old, dried up bottle of the stuff in the back of one
of my junque drawers recently...

Jonesy
--
Marvin L Jones | Marvin | W3DHJ.net | linux
38.238N 104.547W | @ jonz.net | Jonesy | FreeBSD
* Killfiling google & XXXXbanter.com: jonz.net/ng.htm

John Robertson
Guest

Tue May 05, 2020 7:45 pm   



On 2020/05/05 9:19 a.m., Allodoxaphobia wrote:
Quote:
On Mon, 04 May 2020 23:32:17 +0200, HW wrote:
On Mon, 4 May 2020 12:21:05 -0700 (PDT), 3daral3_at_gmail.com wrote:

clean the contacts and buttons. It seemed each time the cleaning
effort worked for less than the previous time.

Yes, that's the way it works. Every time you clean them, you remove
some more of the conductive coating.

They sell small conductive rubber pads intended to be glued onto the
existing pads. I have never tried them, though. Using metal might be
hard on the contacts.

Do "they" even sell "conductive paint" to repair rear window defoggers
anymore? They came viz a little finger nail polish bottle and brush.
I came across an old, dried up bottle of the stuff in the back of one
of my junque drawers recently...

Jonesy


As far as I know the product for repairing window heater strips is still
available.

https://www.familyhandyman.com/automotive/car-window-repair/repair-a-rear-window-defogger/

However I do recall there was an MG Chemicals product for restoring
conductive pads:

https://www.mgchemicals.com/products/prototyping-and-circuit-repair/conductive-pens/838ar-p-carbon-conductive-pen

or

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-8339-Repairs-Controls/dp/B0081SGM8M

Which is not listed at MG Chemicals, perhaps obsolete?

John :-#)#


--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Dave Platt
Guest

Tue May 05, 2020 8:45 pm   



In article <tbGdndy2fsg4NSzDnZ2dnUU7-d_NnZ2d_at_giganews.com>,
John Robertson <spam_at_flippers.com> wrote:
Quote:
Yes, that's the way it works. Every time you clean them, you remove
some more of the conductive coating.

They sell small conductive rubber pads intended to be glued onto the
existing pads. I have never tried them, though. Using metal might be
hard on the contacts.

Do "they" even sell "conductive paint" to repair rear window defoggers
anymore? They came viz a little finger nail polish bottle and brush.
I came across an old, dried up bottle of the stuff in the back of one
of my junque drawers recently...

Jonesy

As far as I know the product for repairing window heater strips is still
available.

https://www.familyhandyman.com/automotive/car-window-repair/repair-a-rear-window-defogger/

However I do recall there was an MG Chemicals product for restoring
conductive pads:

https://www.mgchemicals.com/products/prototyping-and-circuit-repair/conductive-pens/838ar-p-carbon-conductive-pen

or

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-8339-Repairs-Controls/dp/B0081SGM8M

Which is not listed at MG Chemicals, perhaps obsolete?


I've had some luck restoring conductive-rubber pads using a conductive
dry lubricant called NeoLube No. 2. It's a graphite suspension in
isopropyl alcohol, with a small amount of a binder. Clean the back of
the rubber pad (possibly even roughen it a bit with very fine
sandpaper), then paint it on and let it dry.

It's available from Micro-Mark and other online vendors.

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