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server
Guest

Wed Sep 29, 2004 7:26 pm   



message unavailable

ken
Guest

Wed Sep 29, 2004 7:26 pm   



Does anyone have a schematic or know where I can get one for an AB
MessageView 421F Thanks for any help, Ken

Jan-Erik Söderholm
Guest

Wed Sep 29, 2004 7:26 pm   



Maybe not 1/4 Oz, but check :
www.st-anna.data.se, under "PCB Laminate".
B.t.w, what are you building with 1/4 Oz laminate ?

Jan-Erik.

Dev Null wrote:
Quote:

Hello,
I want to buy 2 - 3 ft2 each of 0.021" and 0.039" PCB with 1/4
Oz. copper. I would be interested in anything close to these specs.

Please respond to the group.

Thanks


Dev Null
Guest

Wed Sep 29, 2004 7:26 pm   



Jan-Erik Söderholm <aaa_at_aaa.com> wrote in
news:3EFADC26.F7A823F5_at_aaa.com:
..
Quote:

Dev Null wrote:

Hello,
I want to buy 2 - 3 ft2 each of 0.021" and 0.039" PCB
with 1/4
Oz. copper. I would be interested in anything close to these
specs.

Please respond to the group.

Thanks



Maybe not 1/4 Oz, but check :
www.st-anna.data.se, under "PCB Laminate".
B.t.w, what are you building with 1/4 Oz laminate ?

Jan-Erik

Thanks for your post.
This is for research on high-density chip-to-board interconnects. ~
1000/cm2.

Clint Sharp
Guest

Wed Sep 29, 2004 7:26 pm   



In message <3f00896b_3_at_hpb10302.boi.hp.com>, Bob Myers
<nospamplease_at_addressinvalid.com> writes
Quote:

"The Technical Manager" <techman_at_yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:3F006546.87531244_at_yahoo.co.uk...
In a 1930s edition of the Bell System Technical Journal were two cross
sectional views of co-axial cables with two centre conductors surrounded
by a single screening braid enclosing both.

Shielded twinlead, in other words. By definition, this is
NOT a "coaxial" cable. It's sometimes referred to as a
"twinaxial" - at least, that's what Belden calls it. Check out
their types 9250 (95 ohm), 9207 (100 ohm), or 9271 (the
classic 124 ohm). Such things are used for balanced lines that
have to be protected from crosstalk, etc..

Bob M.


You could also mooch around your local computer salvage place and watch

out for IBM System 36/38 or AS/400 kit, they used Twinaxial cable,
though I'm not sure of the impedance
--
Clint

dbessmer
Guest

Wed Sep 29, 2004 7:26 pm   



Stop picking on the poor sock puppet. Better yet, go rent "A Beautiful Mind"
and the you'll know the rest of the story. He had death rays too you
know......

Keith R. Williams
Guest

Wed Sep 29, 2004 7:26 pm   



In article <vg6lkdp5ehpp38_at_corp.supernews.com>,
dbessmer_at_easystreet.com says...
Quote:
Stop picking on the poor sock puppet. Better yet, go rent "A Beautiful Mind"
and the you'll know the rest of the story. He had death rays too you
know......

We went to see that. The popcorn machine caught on fire and we
had to exit the theatre before we found out if the nut was really
eerguy or Dimbulb! We weren't even given passes to go back to
find out! So, which is it? eer or dimmie? No, don't tell me it
was really newsie!

--
Keith

Johan Smit
Guest

Wed Sep 29, 2004 7:26 pm   



On Mon, 30 Jun 2003 13:03:03 -0600, "Bob Myers"
<nospamplease_at_addressinvalid.com> wrote:
Quote:

Shielded twinlead, in other words. By definition, this is
NOT a "coaxial" cable. It's sometimes referred to as a
"twinaxial" - at least, that's what Belden calls it. Check out
their types 9250 (95 ohm), 9207 (100 ohm), or 9271 (the
classic 124 ohm). Such things are used for balanced lines that
have to be protected from crosstalk, etc..

Exactly.

Widely used in the telephone industry.
We used to get them in 100m rolls, when I was still in that industry.
Regards
Johan Smit

Thom
Guest

Wed Sep 29, 2004 7:26 pm   



Also look on the back of the unit. There might be a momentary push button
that is used to change the input acceptance window. If you AC input is
marginal then it might be faulting. I have seen APC's cycle on and off line
when input voltage is too low/high.

"ToddT" <towntw_at_yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1d9a80e8.0306120501.6c2afb8e_at_posting.google.com...
Quote:
I recently purchased a used APC Smart-UPS 1000 (Model SU1000BX120)
through ebay. This item was listed as being in "good condition", with
no batteries included.

Searching APC's web site and other sources, I determined this needed
an RBC6 battery pack or equivalent. I subsequently purchased two 12
volt 12 amp hour batteries.

The UPS arrived, the batteries arrived, and APC's documentation is not
very clear on battery installation. It would appear that the two
batteries are to be connected in series, thereby providing 24 volts of
output.

I installed the batteries, plugged in a small load (a 100W lamp),
plugged in and turned on the UPS. The load gauge showed one LED, the
battery charge gauge showed one LED, the on-line LED blinked for about
5 seconds before going off, and the on-battery LED stayed lit. The
UPS beeped four times every 30 seconds as it is supposed to when on
battery power. The lamp did come on. The UPS would not stay powered
by the utility.

I've read some things that indicate a UPS will do funny things until
the batteries are charged. So I left the UPS turned off but plugged
in overnight, as the manual indicates that this will charge the
battery.

Since the following morning, here is what happens, either with or
without a load plugged in. Upon pressing the On button, all the LEDs
flash once, there is a beep, and somewhere inside a switch is thrown
(I can hear it click). Subsequent presses of the ON button do
nothing. Pressing and holding the ON button gets one beep after one
second, and that can be repeated. Pressing and holding the OFF button
for one second resets the internal switch (I can hear it click), at
which point I can repeat the action in this paragraph. The lamp
(load) never even blinks.

On the chance I screwed up the battery connection, I removed one
battery and tried it again. The only difference is that after the
LEDs flash and the beep, there is apparently not enough juice to get
the internal switch to "stick". Repeated pressing of the ON button
causes the same LED flash and beep.

Any ideas on where to go from here to make this thing work, or have I
done something to screw it up? Any thoughts/help is appreciated.
Thanks!


SGT
Guest

Wed Sep 29, 2004 7:26 pm   



Not familiar with this particular model, but I do know couple of things
about UPS'
APC ups' usually OFF-LINE type which means AC input goes through to output
until AC input fails, then Batteries come ON-LINE.
- Did you received any Docs ?
- Look at the specs for the DC voltage which determines how many batteries
in series you need.
- The UPS batteries are not quite the same as the standard car batteries.
Read carefully the battery type specs recommended by APC for this model. I
have seen some odd types which means must by from the manufacturer at
exagerated prices.

Trouble shooting can be very difficult without complete tech docs.
Mostly they change the boards ($$$).

Wish I could help more. Good luck



"Thom" <tigresscmdlv2_at_earthlink.net> a écrit dans le message de news:
w0fNa.25280$C83.2343259_at_newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net...
Quote:
Also look on the back of the unit. There might be a momentary push button
that is used to change the input acceptance window. If you AC input is
marginal then it might be faulting. I have seen APC's cycle on and off
line
when input voltage is too low/high.

"ToddT" <towntw_at_yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1d9a80e8.0306120501.6c2afb8e_at_posting.google.com...
I recently purchased a used APC Smart-UPS 1000 (Model SU1000BX120)
through ebay. This item was listed as being in "good condition", with
no batteries included.

Searching APC's web site and other sources, I determined this needed
an RBC6 battery pack or equivalent. I subsequently purchased two 12
volt 12 amp hour batteries.

The UPS arrived, the batteries arrived, and APC's documentation is not
very clear on battery installation. It would appear that the two
batteries are to be connected in series, thereby providing 24 volts of
output.

I installed the batteries, plugged in a small load (a 100W lamp),
plugged in and turned on the UPS. The load gauge showed one LED, the
battery charge gauge showed one LED, the on-line LED blinked for about
5 seconds before going off, and the on-battery LED stayed lit. The
UPS beeped four times every 30 seconds as it is supposed to when on
battery power. The lamp did come on. The UPS would not stay powered
by the utility.

I've read some things that indicate a UPS will do funny things until
the batteries are charged. So I left the UPS turned off but plugged
in overnight, as the manual indicates that this will charge the
battery.

Since the following morning, here is what happens, either with or
without a load plugged in. Upon pressing the On button, all the LEDs
flash once, there is a beep, and somewhere inside a switch is thrown
(I can hear it click). Subsequent presses of the ON button do
nothing. Pressing and holding the ON button gets one beep after one
second, and that can be repeated. Pressing and holding the OFF button
for one second resets the internal switch (I can hear it click), at
which point I can repeat the action in this paragraph. The lamp
(load) never even blinks.

On the chance I screwed up the battery connection, I removed one
battery and tried it again. The only difference is that after the
LEDs flash and the beep, there is apparently not enough juice to get
the internal switch to "stick". Repeated pressing of the ON button
causes the same LED flash and beep.

Any ideas on where to go from here to make this thing work, or have I
done something to screw it up? Any thoughts/help is appreciated.
Thanks!




Bob M.
Guest

Wed Sep 29, 2004 7:26 pm   



I'm sure that you, or someone, could make anything you want, given enough
funds. It's just difficult to control the waveform when things get that
fast. Plus, why would you need all that flexibility above 10 MHz? Certainly
won't be useful for tuning radios and TVs. High end audio equipment might be
testable with non-sinusoidal waveforms, but how high do they go in
frequency?

Me thinks you should spend a little time figuring out the use for such a
piece of equipment, before you go on a hunt to find or make one.

Bob M.
======
"EMScan81" <emscan81_at_aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030710001711.02999.00000119_at_mb-m12.aol.com...
Quote:
Thanks Bob!!

Could I make a function generator that has the range that I desire, or is
that
too much work, etc?

Thanks,
Ed


Matthieu BENOIT
Guest

Wed Sep 29, 2004 7:26 pm   



Dear Sir ,
Please explain more what you are looking for?
I have access to a surplus where there are plenty of second hand hp
measurement, analyzers etc.. equipment.
The references of this surplus are:
Electronique Diffusion
137 avenue Paul Vaillant Couturier, F-94250 Gentilly , France
Tel +33-1 47 35 19 30
Fax +33-1 49 85 91 78
They have a large stock of measurement equipment and they also make some
repair. Only a part of their stock is available at this url:
http://www.electronique-diffusion.fr/Gentilly/Gentilly.html

@+
best regards,
MB.
M.C.D. Roos wrote:
Quote:

Anyone ever seen one of these? I only know the HP HPIB floppy disk
drives, but this one is made by Ando. Are these compatible with the HP
drives (and would respond to the same commands)? Right now it isn't
responding at *IDN?...

greetings,
Michiel


ctsbillc
Guest

Wed Sep 29, 2004 7:26 pm   



A lot depends on what you mean by analysis, but the answer is almost
certainly "no"

The spectrum analyser software which runs on a PC using a sound card has a
bandwidth of a few tens of kHz, you can analyse sound, but that's all.

Analysis requires expertise, also, its not the sort of thing you can do
without experience, and usually an engineering degree.

Best Regards,

Bill C



"Nathan Higgins" <nathan_at_link9.net.no-spam> wrote in message
news:arXKa.8160$KQ7.57119859_at_news-text.cableinet.net...
Quote:
I presume you are using this to track the signal for sat positioning?
There
are specific analysers for doing this with, as far as I know there isn't
an
interface for feeding coax directly into a PC for analysis, but there are
analysis devices with an output to plug into a PC. For what you're doing
you're probably better off getting someone with the right kit to do the
job
unless you want to spend £'s on buying equipment for yourself.

Nathan D Higgins



ctsbillc
Guest

Wed Sep 29, 2004 7:26 pm   



You are very right, though, in the "it's digital so it must be better"
mentality of the late 20th and 21st century, we often loose capability we
had decades ago.

Bill C.



"Bob Koller" <kollerb_at_attbi.com> wrote in message
news:BX7Ka.12146$3d.8410_at_sccrnsc02...
Quote:
Go find a Tektronix 7904(A), and what ever vertical preamps and timebase
you
need. These easily do 500Mhz, are plentiful, lightweight for a full size
scope, and very versatile.
Should be easy to find on eBay.

bob

"ddwyer" <dd_at_ddwyer.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ZhamwJAaNM++EwRf_at_ddwyer.demon.co.uk...
In my lab there is a wide variety of oscilloscopes to chose from.
All the new scopes are colour LCD and digital i.e they digitise the
analog signal and display with a resolution limited by the number of A/D
bits (12 typically often Cool is limited dynamic range and quantized noise
floor.
I find that for careful measurement only old fashioned analog CRT scopes
can display small signal envelopes superimoposed on larger signals as
often happens with Op amps that are unstable at 100s Megs.
I also wanted to look at distortion by subtracting one channel signal
from another, again not enough dynamic range. There are still analog
scopes with CRTs for 200MHz by but who makes the same capable of
operating past 500MHz, Im sure there were scopes capable of this 30
years ago!!

--
ddwyer



Walter Harley
Guest

Wed Sep 29, 2004 7:26 pm   



"Winfield Hill" <whill_at_picovolt.com> wrote in message
news:bejimt014io_at_drn.newsguy.com...
Quote:
Walter wrote...
[...]
In my own power supplies, I've usually put a switch on the output, so
that
I can leave the supply powered up and simply switch the output on and
off.
But the bench supplies I've bought never seem to have that feature,
which
has always puzzled me.

Such a switch can get you into trouble, if it applies an instantaneous
supply-voltage step to a circuit. The dV/dt slew rate can be very high.

Hmm, good point. Of course, that could happen in the as-manufactured
circuit too - some of my circuits get powered by batteries, turned on by a
switch, so there's going to be as much dV/dt as the internal impedance of
the battery permits. If the circuit dies on the power supply, it might be
telling me something.

I guess what I really want is a switch that either cuts the output to zero
or ramps it back up to the preset voltage over the course of, say, 100msec.
I do want it to go all the way to zero, though, so that when I'm fooling
around with the circuit I don't inadvertently reverse-bias a tantalum cap or
whatever. Alternately, I want the max current to be limited to < 5mA or
so - which amounts to the same thing.

It always makes me uncomfortable to turn on a circuit under test by means of
turning on the AC to the bench power supply. I wonder whether the supply's
current limiting circuitry will be able to kick in in time, whether the
voltages will stabilize right away, and so forth. I guess I've never
actually had a problem with it, though; not sure why.

-w

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