It's been a bad (plumbing) day at the office ... :-(

Ron <ron_at_lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote in message
news:bKidnVaCEb-DBbjSnZ2dnUVZ8hadnZ2d_at_bt.com...
On 29/01/2012 11:23, Arfa Daily wrote:


"Nelson" <nelson_at_nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:0001HW.CB4A7A5405C1ADE1B02919BF_at_news.astraweb.com...
On Sat, 28 Jan 2012 12:37:55 -0500, Arfa Daily wrote
(in article <UnWUq.301$M05.167_at_newsfe20.ams2>):

Bit of a long post, but stick with it ... :-)

[snip]

Try inserting a 22uF capacitor between the valve and ground.

--
Nelson



Ah. Interesting thought, Nelson. Do you think it's maybe going unstable
then ? What sort of voltage rating are you thinking ... ?

d;~}

Arfa
Could be one o them paralytic oscillations

Ron


As used in symphonic cisterns

On Sat, 28 Jan 2012 17:37:55 -0000, "Arfa Daily"
arfa.daily_at_ntlworld.com> wrote:

What should happen, is that as you pull up the compression nut, the
conical
seat of the outer ring, presses on the conical taper of the inner part of
the adaptor, crushing it onto the 15 mm pipe. At the same time, the 45 deg
flare a little further in, should be pulling up against the corresponding
seat in the valve body, to form a seal.

I beg to differ. If I'm decoding your posting correctly, you have
both a flared end on a copper pipe, as well as a compression fitting
(ferrule or olive), on the same copper pipe. That's not going to
work. The flare and the ferrule are pulling against each other as you
tighten the nut. My guess(tm) is that you have a valve that will take
EITHER a flare end (which requires a flaring tool), or a compression
fitting, but not both.

Incidentally, I hate plumbing.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl_at_cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Interesting. The consensus at the moment from those good folk over on
UK DIY, is that I still didn't pull it up tight enough. They reckon
that the frictional resistance of 22 mm fittings can be so high that
you can pull them up until they squeak, but in fact you are fighting
this friction in the threads, and although you think that you must
have gotten it tight enough to have seated the olive, you actually
haven't. They say that the solution is to put sealing compound on both
the olive, and the threads, and this will act as a lubricant when
pulling it up, resulting in the force going into making the joint,
rather than just tightening the nut. I have also had the thought of
using a 22 mm tap connector on it. That way you get the seal from a
rubber or fibre washer against the thread end, rather than having to
get a good 'squash' of the olive onto both the pipe, and the seat in
the valve body. What thinks you to this off the wall idea ?

Arfa

Then you shall have it sir ! Assuming of course, that I ever get to the
bottom of it. Problem is that now I've had to patch the pipe back up, it
becomes more and more difficult to put it back in, just to try it out. I
really need to figure a way to pressurise it assembled with 15 mm tails,
but out of the installation. If I can then get it watertight, at least I
know that when I put it back in, it will only be a case of a 'straight'
connection 15 mm to 15 mm, be it in solder or compression.
I built a device for testing pipes buried in the concrete basement floor

Arfa Daily Inscribed thus:



Arfa


Oooops ! Ignore this (except for amusement at my misfortune ... )
Accidentally posted to wrong group :-\

Arfa

Apart from a wry smile
I would be interested in the cause and solution !

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

Then you shall have it sir ! Assuming of course, that I ever get to
the bottom of it. Problem is that now I've had to patch the pipe back
up, it becomes more and more difficult to put it back in, just to try
it out. I really need to figure a way to pressurise it assembled with
15 mm tails, but out of the installation. If I can then get it
watertight, at least I know that when I put it back in, it will only
be a case of a 'straight' connection 15 mm to 15 mm, be it in solder
or compression.

Arfa

Long shot, but since I've had it happen to me...
Its possible that the casting has one or more blow holes in it allowing
water to leak through the casting from the inside.

Some time long ago I replaced a sink mixer tap... It was fine until hot
water was run through it, then it started to leak. I at first I
thought that it was the compression joints at the base of the tap. In
fact it was water being forced under the chrome plating and out into
the cabinet underneath. The supplier refused to even acknowledge that
it was the tap that was leaking and blamed the leak on badly fitted
joints. Replacing the tap cured the problem.

Using a high pressure test pump showed that water was in fact escaping
between the chrome plating and the bottom of the tap where the machined
surface was.

The supplier never acknowledged the fault and refused point blank to
replace the faulty tap.

"Nelson" <nelson_at_nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:0001HW.CB4A7A5405C1ADE1B02919BF_at_news.astraweb.com...
On Sat, 28 Jan 2012 12:37:55 -0500, Arfa Daily wrote
(in article <UnWUq.301$M05.167_at_newsfe20.ams2>):

Bit of a long post, but stick with it ... :-)

[snip]

Try inserting a 22uF capacitor between the valve and ground.

--
Nelson



Ah. Interesting thought, Nelson. Do you think it's maybe going unstable then
? What sort of voltage rating are you thinking ... ?