Ask a question - edaboard.com
elektroda.net NewsGroups Forum Index - Repair Electronics - Fuse size in IBM ThinkPad T22 wallwart power supply
Robert Macy
Guest
Guest
Tue Nov 01, 2011 2:34 am
The power supply that goes to the IBM ThinkPad T22 got wet!
arcing sounds, zsst! does not work now. Internally found a blown
pigtail fuse. plus, [and this does NOT bode well] blackened PCB areas
around AC mains traces.
The pigtail fuse does not appear to be simple physical caps going over
the 8AG type but solidly attached to the metal end caps. Plus, and
this ALWAYS happens, the value is UNDER the fuse body and is not
accessible. I'd like to simply put asimilarly rated fuse in parallel
to check if the problem is only the fuse, but don't know the amperage.
Anybody know the rating? The main unit is in the range of 16V 3.36A
so the fuse could be 1 to 2A, but the wire laying down inside looks
heavier. Maybe the fuse is in series with the output ? and is more
like 5 to 10A ??
Anybody have a manual, or URL to find out?
Arfa Daily
Guest
Guest
Tue Nov 01, 2011 2:34 am
"Robert Macy" <robert.a.macy_at_gmail.com> wrote in message
news:5e6496c4-6564-4753-a3aa-6605b2250857_at_j20g2000vby.googlegroups.com...
Quote:
The power supply that goes to the IBM ThinkPad T22 got wet!
arcing sounds, zsst! does not work now. Internally found a blown
pigtail fuse. plus, [and this does NOT bode well] blackened PCB areas
around AC mains traces.
The pigtail fuse does not appear to be simple physical caps going over
the 8AG type but solidly attached to the metal end caps. Plus, and
this ALWAYS happens, the value is UNDER the fuse body and is not
accessible. I'd like to simply put asimilarly rated fuse in parallel
to check if the problem is only the fuse, but don't know the amperage.
Anybody know the rating? The main unit is in the range of 16V 3.36A
so the fuse could be 1 to 2A, but the wire laying down inside looks
heavier. Maybe the fuse is in series with the output ? and is more
like 5 to 10A ??
Anybody have a manual, or URL to find out?
arcing sounds, zsst! does not work now. Internally found a blown
pigtail fuse. plus, [and this does NOT bode well] blackened PCB areas
around AC mains traces.
The pigtail fuse does not appear to be simple physical caps going over
the 8AG type but solidly attached to the metal end caps. Plus, and
this ALWAYS happens, the value is UNDER the fuse body and is not
accessible. I'd like to simply put asimilarly rated fuse in parallel
to check if the problem is only the fuse, but don't know the amperage.
Anybody know the rating? The main unit is in the range of 16V 3.36A
so the fuse could be 1 to 2A, but the wire laying down inside looks
heavier. Maybe the fuse is in series with the output ? and is more
like 5 to 10A ??
Anybody have a manual, or URL to find out?
It'll be a switcher. If it got wet, and the input fuse is blown, and the
board is blackened, it can probably be pretty much considered to be beyond
resurrection ...
I'd feel inclined to clean up the blackened bit as best you can, and then
hang a 1 amp fuse across the original. If that immediately blows, it's not
going to be worth wasting more time on.
Arfa
Jamie
Guest
Guest
Tue Nov 01, 2011 2:41 am
Robert Macy wrote:
Quote:
The power supply that goes to the IBM ThinkPad T22 got wet!
arcing sounds, zsst! does not work now. Internally found a blown
pigtail fuse. plus, [and this does NOT bode well] blackened PCB areas
around AC mains traces.
The pigtail fuse does not appear to be simple physical caps going over
the 8AG type but solidly attached to the metal end caps. Plus, and
this ALWAYS happens, the value is UNDER the fuse body and is not
accessible. I'd like to simply put asimilarly rated fuse in parallel
to check if the problem is only the fuse, but don't know the amperage.
Anybody know the rating? The main unit is in the range of 16V 3.36A
so the fuse could be 1 to 2A, but the wire laying down inside looks
heavier. Maybe the fuse is in series with the output ? and is more
like 5 to 10A ??
Anybody have a manual, or URL to find out?
Attach a 55 watt incandescent lamp across the open fuse and use that as
arcing sounds, zsst! does not work now. Internally found a blown
pigtail fuse. plus, [and this does NOT bode well] blackened PCB areas
around AC mains traces.
The pigtail fuse does not appear to be simple physical caps going over
the 8AG type but solidly attached to the metal end caps. Plus, and
this ALWAYS happens, the value is UNDER the fuse body and is not
accessible. I'd like to simply put asimilarly rated fuse in parallel
to check if the problem is only the fuse, but don't know the amperage.
Anybody know the rating? The main unit is in the range of 16V 3.36A
so the fuse could be 1 to 2A, but the wire laying down inside looks
heavier. Maybe the fuse is in series with the output ? and is more
like 5 to 10A ??
Anybody have a manual, or URL to find out?
Attach a 55 watt incandescent lamp across the open fuse and use that as
the test fuse.
And if you don't understand how that would work for you, you shouldn't
be doing none of this, at all.
Jamie
Michael A. Terrell
Guest
Guest
Tue Nov 01, 2011 3:28 am
Robert Macy wrote:
Quote:
The power supply that goes to the IBM ThinkPad T22 got wet!
arcing sounds, zsst! does not work now. Internally found a blown
pigtail fuse. plus, [and this does NOT bode well] blackened PCB areas
around AC mains traces.
The pigtail fuse does not appear to be simple physical caps going over
the 8AG type but solidly attached to the metal end caps. Plus, and
this ALWAYS happens, the value is UNDER the fuse body and is not
accessible. I'd like to simply put asimilarly rated fuse in parallel
to check if the problem is only the fuse, but don't know the amperage.
Anybody know the rating? The main unit is in the range of 16V 3.36A
so the fuse could be 1 to 2A, but the wire laying down inside looks
heavier. Maybe the fuse is in series with the output ? and is more
like 5 to 10A ??
Anybody have a manual, or URL to find out?
You can get new power supply on Ebay for $8.
<http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=IBM+ThinkPad+T22+power+supply&_sacat=See-All-Categories>
--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.
Jeff Liebermann
Guest
Guest
Tue Nov 01, 2011 4:19 am
On Mon, 31 Oct 2011 17:34:12 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
<robert.a.macy_at_gmail.com> wrote:
Quote:
The power supply that goes to the IBM ThinkPad T22 got wet!
I don't think there's a fuse inside. Dry it out as best you can. Give
it about a week or two in a warm area. Then, try it again. Otherwise,
just buy another power supply on eBay.
<http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=thinkpad+t22+power+supply>
--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl_at_cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS
Jeff Liebermann
Guest
Guest
Tue Nov 01, 2011 4:52 pm
On Tue, 1 Nov 2011 07:59:26 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
<robert.a.macy_at_gmail.com> wrote:
Quote:
On Oct 31, 8:19 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=thinkpad+t22+power+supply
thank you for the URL, I'm not familiar with using eBay, especially
since I avoid eBay like the plague.
but this time, ....any experiences with any of these suppliers?
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=thinkpad+t22+power+supply
thank you for the URL, I'm not familiar with using eBay, especially
since I avoid eBay like the plague.
but this time, ....any experiences with any of these suppliers?
I resell about 10 assorted laptop style power supplies per month. They
don't come from any specific vendor on eBay. In general, the quality
is identical to what you get from the OEM manufacturer. That's because
they are the same power supplies used by OEM. There may be
differences in labeling and inspection, but that's about all. I've had
no failures or quality problems that I can recall, but I have had some
overheating problems with "universal" supplies, that come with a
variety of tips to fit any laptop. In this case, the T22 power supply
uses the same voltage and tip as many HP and Compaq laptops, resulting
in huge production quantities, and very low prices. If you plan to
continue immersing your power supplies, I suggest purchasing a few
spares. Also, I suggest you get over your phobia of buying on eBay.
For what it's worth, I get better service from most of the small eBay
vendors, than I get from the major online vendors. If eBay and/or
Paypal have somehow offended you, try Amazon:
<http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dcomputers&field-keywords=laptop+t22+power+supply>
Quote:
Yes, there is a pigtail fuse inside. just can't read the value on the
UNDERSIDE!
UNDERSIDE!
Then guess. Read the nameplate for the maximum 117VAC current.
Multiply that by 2 and you have the fuse rating. You could also
visually compare the visible fuse wire diameter with those from your
fuse collection. My power supply says 1.5A maximum at 117VAC. So, a
2A or 3A sounds about right.
Quote:
Don't even want to start taking it apart if the rest is dead.
If you're going to try and fix it, first dry it out thoroughly. That
doesn't mean blow some compressed air around the insides. It means
let it sit for days in a warm place to be sure everything has
evaporated. If the immersion was in potentially corrosive liquid, a
clean water wash will be needed. I've fixed several computers, that
were were partly immersed in a tub of rusty water for about a month,
by simply washing the guts, and letting them dry thoroughly. After a
blow dry, they wouldn't run. After a month to let everything
evaporate, all three recovered nicely.
If you plan to probe the insides, make sure you use a 117v isolation
transformer. Both ends of the 300v switching section are floating
above ground. If you don't know how to deal with such voltages and
careful grounding, then don't try to fix it. The life you save may be
your own.
However, for a $10 replacement cost, I wouldn't bother trying to fix
it.
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl_at_cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Robert Macy
Guest
Guest
Tue Nov 01, 2011 4:56 pm
On Oct 31, 6:41 pm, Jamie
<jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1l...@charter.net> wrote:
Quote:
Robert Macy wrote:
The power supply that goes to the IBM ThinkPad T22 got wet!
arcing sounds, zsst! does not work now. Internally found a blown
pigtail fuse. plus, [and this does NOT bode well] blackened PCB areas
around AC mains traces.
The pigtail fuse does not appear to be simple physical caps going over
the 8AG type but solidly attached to the metal end caps. Plus, and
this ALWAYS happens, the value is UNDER the fuse body and is not
accessible. I'd like to simply put asimilarly rated fuse in parallel
to check if the problem is only the fuse, but don't know the amperage.
Anybody know the rating? The main unit is in the range of 16V 3.36A
so the fuse could be 1 to 2A, but the wire laying down inside looks
heavier. Maybe the fuse is in series with the output ? and is more
like 5 to 10A ??
Anybody have a manual, or URL to find out?
Attach a 55 watt incandescent lamp across the open fuse and use that as
the test fuse.
And if you don't understand how that would work for you, you shouldn't
be doing none of this, at all.
Jamie
The power supply that goes to the IBM ThinkPad T22 got wet!
arcing sounds, zsst! does not work now. Internally found a blown
pigtail fuse. plus, [and this does NOT bode well] blackened PCB areas
around AC mains traces.
The pigtail fuse does not appear to be simple physical caps going over
the 8AG type but solidly attached to the metal end caps. Plus, and
this ALWAYS happens, the value is UNDER the fuse body and is not
accessible. I'd like to simply put asimilarly rated fuse in parallel
to check if the problem is only the fuse, but don't know the amperage.
Anybody know the rating? The main unit is in the range of 16V 3.36A
so the fuse could be 1 to 2A, but the wire laying down inside looks
heavier. Maybe the fuse is in series with the output ? and is more
like 5 to 10A ??
Anybody have a manual, or URL to find out?
Attach a 55 watt incandescent lamp across the open fuse and use that as
the test fuse.
And if you don't understand how that would work for you, you shouldn't
be doing none of this, at all.
Jamie
Forgot about using a lamp as a fuse replacement to limit the current.
Or heater for higher current
Didn't know they made 55W bulbs, found 60W and 40W and one that
switches 50-100-150, but no 55W
Hmmm....that's about 260 ohm HOT, when cold more like 26 ohms. so the
current will go somewhere between 5A down to 0.5A
still safer than putting in a 'penny'
Robert Macy
Guest
Guest
Tue Nov 01, 2011 4:57 pm
On Oct 31, 7:28 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
wrote:
Quote:
Robert Macy wrote:
The power supply that goes to the IBM ThinkPad T22 got wet!
arcing sounds, zsst! does not work now. Internally found a blown
pigtail fuse. plus, [and this does NOT bode well] blackened PCB areas
around AC mains traces.
The pigtail fuse does not appear to be simple physical caps going over
the 8AG type but solidly attached to the metal end caps. Plus, and
this ALWAYS happens, the value is UNDER the fuse body and is not
accessible. I'd like to simply put asimilarly rated fuse in parallel
to check if the problem is only the fuse, but don't know the amperage.
Anybody know the rating? The main unit is in the range of 16V 3.36A
so the fuse could be 1 to 2A, but the wire laying down inside looks
heavier. Maybe the fuse is in series with the output ? and is more
like 5 to 10A ??
Anybody have a manual, or URL to find out?
You can get new power supply on Ebay for $8.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nk...
--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.
The power supply that goes to the IBM ThinkPad T22 got wet!
arcing sounds, zsst! does not work now. Internally found a blown
pigtail fuse. plus, [and this does NOT bode well] blackened PCB areas
around AC mains traces.
The pigtail fuse does not appear to be simple physical caps going over
the 8AG type but solidly attached to the metal end caps. Plus, and
this ALWAYS happens, the value is UNDER the fuse body and is not
accessible. I'd like to simply put asimilarly rated fuse in parallel
to check if the problem is only the fuse, but don't know the amperage.
Anybody know the rating? The main unit is in the range of 16V 3.36A
so the fuse could be 1 to 2A, but the wire laying down inside looks
heavier. Maybe the fuse is in series with the output ? and is more
like 5 to 10A ??
Anybody have a manual, or URL to find out?
You can get new power supply on Ebay for $8.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nk...
--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.
thank you for the URL. Any experience with any of these suppliers?
Robert Macy
Guest
Guest
Tue Nov 01, 2011 4:59 pm
On Oct 31, 8:19 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
Quote:
On Mon, 31 Oct 2011 17:34:12 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
robert.a.m...@gmail.com> wrote:
The power supply that goes to the IBM ThinkPad T22 got wet!
I don't think there's a fuse inside. Dry it out as best you can. Give
it about a week or two in a warm area. Then, try it again. Otherwise,
just buy another power supply on eBay.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=thinkpad+t22+power+supply
--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
#http://802.11junk.com je...@cruzio.com
#http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS
robert.a.m...@gmail.com> wrote:
The power supply that goes to the IBM ThinkPad T22 got wet!
I don't think there's a fuse inside. Dry it out as best you can. Give
it about a week or two in a warm area. Then, try it again. Otherwise,
just buy another power supply on eBay.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=thinkpad+t22+power+supply
--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
#http://802.11junk.com je...@cruzio.com
#http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS
thank you for the URL, I'm not familiar with using eBay, especially
since I avoid eBay like the plague.
but this time, ....any experiences with any of these suppliers?
Yes, there is a pigtail fuse inside. just can't read the value on the
UNDERSIDE!
Don't even want to start taking it apart if the rest is dead.
Michael A. Terrell
Guest
Guest
Wed Nov 02, 2011 3:25 am
Robert Macy wrote:
Quote:
On Oct 31, 7:28 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net
wrote:
Robert Macy wrote:
The power supply that goes to the IBM ThinkPad T22 got wet!
arcing sounds, zsst! does not work now. Internally found a blown
pigtail fuse. plus, [and this does NOT bode well] blackened PCB areas
around AC mains traces.
The pigtail fuse does not appear to be simple physical caps going over
the 8AG type but solidly attached to the metal end caps. Plus, and
this ALWAYS happens, the value is UNDER the fuse body and is not
accessible. I'd like to simply put asimilarly rated fuse in parallel
to check if the problem is only the fuse, but don't know the amperage.
Anybody know the rating? The main unit is in the range of 16V 3.36A
so the fuse could be 1 to 2A, but the wire laying down inside looks
heavier. Maybe the fuse is in series with the output ? and is more
like 5 to 10A ??
Anybody have a manual, or URL to find out?
You can get new power supply on Ebay for $8.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nk...
thank you for the URL. Any experience with any of these suppliers?
I've bought about a dozen laptop power supplies on Ebay, but can't
remember the vendors names. They work well on the computers I bought
them for.
--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.
Robert Macy
Guest
Guest
Thu Nov 03, 2011 12:46 am
On Nov 1, 8:52 am, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
Quote:
On Tue, 1 Nov 2011 07:59:26 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
robert.a.m...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Oct 31, 8:19 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=thinkpad+t22+power+supply
thank you for the URL, I'm not familiar with using eBay, especially
since I avoid eBay like the plague.
but this time, ....any experiences with any of these suppliers?
I resell about 10 assorted laptop style power supplies per month. They
don't come from any specific vendor on eBay. In general, the quality
is identical to what you get from the OEM manufacturer. That's because
they are the same power supplies used by OEM. There may be
differences in labeling and inspection, but that's about all. I've had
no failures or quality problems that I can recall, but I have had some
overheating problems with "universal" supplies, that come with a
variety of tips to fit any laptop. In this case, the T22 power supply
uses the same voltage and tip as many HP and Compaq laptops, resulting
in huge production quantities, and very low prices. If you plan to
continue immersing your power supplies, I suggest purchasing a few
spares. Also, I suggest you get over your phobia of buying on eBay.
For what it's worth, I get better service from most of the small eBay
vendors, than I get from the major online vendors. If eBay and/or
Paypal have somehow offended you, try Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dcomputers&f...
Yes, there is a pigtail fuse inside. just can't read the value on the
UNDERSIDE!
Then guess. Read the nameplate for the maximum 117VAC current.
Multiply that by 2 and you have the fuse rating. You could also
visually compare the visible fuse wire diameter with those from your
fuse collection. My power supply says 1.5A maximum at 117VAC. So, a
2A or 3A sounds about right.
Don't even want to start taking it apart if the rest is dead.
If you're going to try and fix it, first dry it out thoroughly. That
doesn't mean blow some compressed air around the insides. It means
let it sit for days in a warm place to be sure everything has
evaporated. If the immersion was in potentially corrosive liquid, a
clean water wash will be needed. I've fixed several computers, that
were were partly immersed in a tub of rusty water for about a month,
by simply washing the guts, and letting them dry thoroughly. After a
blow dry, they wouldn't run. After a month to let everything
evaporate, all three recovered nicely.
If you plan to probe the insides, make sure you use a 117v isolation
transformer. Both ends of the 300v switching section are floating
above ground. If you don't know how to deal with such voltages and
careful grounding, then don't try to fix it. The life you save may be
your own.
However, for a $10 replacement cost, I wouldn't bother trying to fix
it.
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
robert.a.m...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Oct 31, 8:19 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=thinkpad+t22+power+supply
thank you for the URL, I'm not familiar with using eBay, especially
since I avoid eBay like the plague.
but this time, ....any experiences with any of these suppliers?
I resell about 10 assorted laptop style power supplies per month. They
don't come from any specific vendor on eBay. In general, the quality
is identical to what you get from the OEM manufacturer. That's because
they are the same power supplies used by OEM. There may be
differences in labeling and inspection, but that's about all. I've had
no failures or quality problems that I can recall, but I have had some
overheating problems with "universal" supplies, that come with a
variety of tips to fit any laptop. In this case, the T22 power supply
uses the same voltage and tip as many HP and Compaq laptops, resulting
in huge production quantities, and very low prices. If you plan to
continue immersing your power supplies, I suggest purchasing a few
spares. Also, I suggest you get over your phobia of buying on eBay.
For what it's worth, I get better service from most of the small eBay
vendors, than I get from the major online vendors. If eBay and/or
Paypal have somehow offended you, try Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dcomputers&f...
Yes, there is a pigtail fuse inside. just can't read the value on the
UNDERSIDE!
Then guess. Read the nameplate for the maximum 117VAC current.
Multiply that by 2 and you have the fuse rating. You could also
visually compare the visible fuse wire diameter with those from your
fuse collection. My power supply says 1.5A maximum at 117VAC. So, a
2A or 3A sounds about right.
Don't even want to start taking it apart if the rest is dead.
If you're going to try and fix it, first dry it out thoroughly. That
doesn't mean blow some compressed air around the insides. It means
let it sit for days in a warm place to be sure everything has
evaporated. If the immersion was in potentially corrosive liquid, a
clean water wash will be needed. I've fixed several computers, that
were were partly immersed in a tub of rusty water for about a month,
by simply washing the guts, and letting them dry thoroughly. After a
blow dry, they wouldn't run. After a month to let everything
evaporate, all three recovered nicely.
If you plan to probe the insides, make sure you use a 117v isolation
transformer. Both ends of the 300v switching section are floating
above ground. If you don't know how to deal with such voltages and
careful grounding, then don't try to fix it. The life you save may be
your own.
However, for a $10 replacement cost, I wouldn't bother trying to fix
it.
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Jeff,
You're talking to a guy that spent 3 hours to fix an $8 hair dryer!
Any chance there's a schematic loating around?
PS: I did go buy it on eBay, we'll see how well that works out.
Robert Macy
Guest
Guest
Thu Nov 17, 2011 11:35 pm
On Oct 31, 7:28 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
wrote:
Quote:
Robert Macy wrote:
The power supply that goes to the IBM ThinkPad T22 got wet!
arcing sounds, zsst! does not work now. Internally found a blown
pigtail fuse. plus, [and this does NOT bode well] blackened PCB areas
around AC mains traces.
The pigtail fuse does not appear to be simple physical caps going over
the 8AG type but solidly attached to the metal end caps. Plus, and
this ALWAYS happens, the value is UNDER the fuse body and is not
accessible. I'd like to simply put asimilarly rated fuse in parallel
to check if the problem is only the fuse, but don't know the amperage.
Anybody know the rating? The main unit is in the range of 16V 3.36A
so the fuse could be 1 to 2A, but the wire laying down inside looks
heavier. Maybe the fuse is in series with the output ? and is more
like 5 to 10A ??
Anybody have a manual, or URL to find out?
You can get new power supply on Ebay for $8.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nk...
--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.
The power supply that goes to the IBM ThinkPad T22 got wet!
arcing sounds, zsst! does not work now. Internally found a blown
pigtail fuse. plus, [and this does NOT bode well] blackened PCB areas
around AC mains traces.
The pigtail fuse does not appear to be simple physical caps going over
the 8AG type but solidly attached to the metal end caps. Plus, and
this ALWAYS happens, the value is UNDER the fuse body and is not
accessible. I'd like to simply put asimilarly rated fuse in parallel
to check if the problem is only the fuse, but don't know the amperage.
Anybody know the rating? The main unit is in the range of 16V 3.36A
so the fuse could be 1 to 2A, but the wire laying down inside looks
heavier. Maybe the fuse is in series with the output ? and is more
like 5 to 10A ??
Anybody have a manual, or URL to find out?
You can get new power supply on Ebay for $8.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nk...
--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.
Thank you, that's the FIRST time I've bought on eBay.
Cost 8.95 total cost, very prompt arrival with their expenditure for
shipping 3.28 !! labeled made in China, does NOT have the AC plugged
in LED, but at these prices, I can live without it.
Seems to work, the laptop display is still defunct.
Baron
Guest
Guest
Thu Nov 17, 2011 11:42 pm
Robert Macy Inscribed thus:
Quote:
On Nov 1, 8:52Â am, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
On Tue, 1 Nov 2011 07:59:26 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
robert.a.m...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Oct 31, 8:19 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=thinkpad+t22+power+supply
thank you for the URL, I'm not familiar with using eBay, especially
since I avoid eBay like the plague.
but this time, ....any experiences with any of these suppliers?
I resell about 10 assorted laptop style power supplies per month.
They don't come from any specific vendor on eBay. Â In general, the
quality is identical to what you get from the OEM manufacturer.
That's because they are the same power supplies used by OEM. Â There
may be differences in labeling and inspection, but that's about all.
I've had no failures or quality problems that I can recall, but I
have had some overheating problems with "universal" supplies, that
come with a variety of tips to fit any laptop. Â In this case, the T22
power supply uses the same voltage and tip as many HP and Compaq
laptops, resulting in huge production quantities, and very low
prices. Â If you plan to continue immersing your power supplies, I
suggest purchasing a few spares. Â Also, I suggest you get over your
phobia of buying on eBay. For what it's worth, I get better service
from most of the small eBay vendors, than I get from the major online
vendors. Â If eBay and/or Paypal have somehow offended you, try
Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dcomputers&f...
Yes, there is a pigtail fuse inside. Â just can't read the value on
the UNDERSIDE!
Then guess. Â Read the nameplate for the maximum 117VAC current.
Multiply that by 2 and you have the fuse rating. Â You could also
visually compare the visible fuse wire diameter with those from your
fuse collection. Â My power supply says 1.5A maximum at 117VAC. Â So, a
2A or 3A sounds about right.
Don't even want to start taking it apart if the rest is dead.
If you're going to try and fix it, first dry it out thoroughly. Â That
doesn't mean blow some compressed air around the insides. Â It means
let it sit for days in a warm place to be sure everything has
evaporated. Â If the immersion was in potentially corrosive liquid, a
clean water wash will be needed. Â I've fixed several computers, that
were were partly immersed in a tub of rusty water for about a month,
by simply washing the guts, and letting them dry thoroughly. Â After a
blow dry, they wouldn't run. Â After a month to let everything
evaporate, all three recovered nicely.
If you plan to probe the insides, make sure you use a 117v isolation
transformer. Â Both ends of the 300v switching section are floating
above ground. Â If you don't know how to deal with such voltages and
careful grounding, then don't try to fix it. Â The life you save may
be your own.
However, for a $10 replacement cost, I wouldn't bother trying to fix
it.
--
Jeff Liebermann   je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D Â Â http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann   AE6KS   831-336-2558
Bought one of those SMPS on eBay, first time to use eBay. total cost
8.95, arrived fast and they paid 3.28 to ship! labeled China, has no
LED plug in indicator, but that's ok.
The laptop boots up, beeps because the date is set to 1981 [can't see
the screen, backlight is OUT, just know the significance of the beep]
Conclusion SMPS works, laptop basically works. just no screen!
So following the T22 manual dissassembled down to the LCD screen,
could not see anything that looked like liquid and dried salts, so
don't know what's still wrong. Flushed with distilled water anywy and
will let dry. Will see later if that brings it back.
Is the 'inverter card' the ps for the backlight? is it touchy and
blows easily?
If I can find a way to remove the cap covers over the screws without
destroying the cap covers, I'll take out the invreter board and look
at it to see if any obvious damage. Or ohm out the terminals on the
main switching transistor to see if it got toasted. Any ideas?
On Tue, 1 Nov 2011 07:59:26 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
robert.a.m...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Oct 31, 8:19 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=thinkpad+t22+power+supply
thank you for the URL, I'm not familiar with using eBay, especially
since I avoid eBay like the plague.
but this time, ....any experiences with any of these suppliers?
I resell about 10 assorted laptop style power supplies per month.
They don't come from any specific vendor on eBay. Â In general, the
quality is identical to what you get from the OEM manufacturer.
That's because they are the same power supplies used by OEM. Â There
may be differences in labeling and inspection, but that's about all.
I've had no failures or quality problems that I can recall, but I
have had some overheating problems with "universal" supplies, that
come with a variety of tips to fit any laptop. Â In this case, the T22
power supply uses the same voltage and tip as many HP and Compaq
laptops, resulting in huge production quantities, and very low
prices. Â If you plan to continue immersing your power supplies, I
suggest purchasing a few spares. Â Also, I suggest you get over your
phobia of buying on eBay. For what it's worth, I get better service
from most of the small eBay vendors, than I get from the major online
vendors. Â If eBay and/or Paypal have somehow offended you, try
Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dcomputers&f...
Yes, there is a pigtail fuse inside. Â just can't read the value on
the UNDERSIDE!
Then guess. Â Read the nameplate for the maximum 117VAC current.
Multiply that by 2 and you have the fuse rating. Â You could also
visually compare the visible fuse wire diameter with those from your
fuse collection. Â My power supply says 1.5A maximum at 117VAC. Â So, a
2A or 3A sounds about right.
Don't even want to start taking it apart if the rest is dead.
If you're going to try and fix it, first dry it out thoroughly. Â That
doesn't mean blow some compressed air around the insides. Â It means
let it sit for days in a warm place to be sure everything has
evaporated. Â If the immersion was in potentially corrosive liquid, a
clean water wash will be needed. Â I've fixed several computers, that
were were partly immersed in a tub of rusty water for about a month,
by simply washing the guts, and letting them dry thoroughly. Â After a
blow dry, they wouldn't run. Â After a month to let everything
evaporate, all three recovered nicely.
If you plan to probe the insides, make sure you use a 117v isolation
transformer. Â Both ends of the 300v switching section are floating
above ground. Â If you don't know how to deal with such voltages and
careful grounding, then don't try to fix it. Â The life you save may
be your own.
However, for a $10 replacement cost, I wouldn't bother trying to fix
it.
--
Jeff Liebermann   je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D Â Â http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann   AE6KS   831-336-2558
Bought one of those SMPS on eBay, first time to use eBay. total cost
8.95, arrived fast and they paid 3.28 to ship! labeled China, has no
LED plug in indicator, but that's ok.
The laptop boots up, beeps because the date is set to 1981 [can't see
the screen, backlight is OUT, just know the significance of the beep]
Conclusion SMPS works, laptop basically works. just no screen!
So following the T22 manual dissassembled down to the LCD screen,
could not see anything that looked like liquid and dried salts, so
don't know what's still wrong. Flushed with distilled water anywy and
will let dry. Will see later if that brings it back.
Is the 'inverter card' the ps for the backlight? is it touchy and
blows easily?
If I can find a way to remove the cap covers over the screws without
destroying the cap covers, I'll take out the invreter board and look
at it to see if any obvious damage. Or ohm out the terminals on the
main switching transistor to see if it got toasted. Any ideas?
Plug an external monitor into the machine. See if you have video output.
--
Best Regards:
Baron.
Robert Macy
Guest
Guest
Thu Nov 17, 2011 11:45 pm
On Nov 1, 8:52 am, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
Quote:
On Tue, 1 Nov 2011 07:59:26 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
robert.a.m...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Oct 31, 8:19 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=thinkpad+t22+power+supply
thank you for the URL, I'm not familiar with using eBay, especially
since I avoid eBay like the plague.
but this time, ....any experiences with any of these suppliers?
I resell about 10 assorted laptop style power supplies per month. They
don't come from any specific vendor on eBay. In general, the quality
is identical to what you get from the OEM manufacturer. That's because
they are the same power supplies used by OEM. There may be
differences in labeling and inspection, but that's about all. I've had
no failures or quality problems that I can recall, but I have had some
overheating problems with "universal" supplies, that come with a
variety of tips to fit any laptop. In this case, the T22 power supply
uses the same voltage and tip as many HP and Compaq laptops, resulting
in huge production quantities, and very low prices. If you plan to
continue immersing your power supplies, I suggest purchasing a few
spares. Also, I suggest you get over your phobia of buying on eBay.
For what it's worth, I get better service from most of the small eBay
vendors, than I get from the major online vendors. If eBay and/or
Paypal have somehow offended you, try Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dcomputers&f...
Yes, there is a pigtail fuse inside. just can't read the value on the
UNDERSIDE!
Then guess. Read the nameplate for the maximum 117VAC current.
Multiply that by 2 and you have the fuse rating. You could also
visually compare the visible fuse wire diameter with those from your
fuse collection. My power supply says 1.5A maximum at 117VAC. So, a
2A or 3A sounds about right.
Don't even want to start taking it apart if the rest is dead.
If you're going to try and fix it, first dry it out thoroughly. That
doesn't mean blow some compressed air around the insides. It means
let it sit for days in a warm place to be sure everything has
evaporated. If the immersion was in potentially corrosive liquid, a
clean water wash will be needed. I've fixed several computers, that
were were partly immersed in a tub of rusty water for about a month,
by simply washing the guts, and letting them dry thoroughly. After a
blow dry, they wouldn't run. After a month to let everything
evaporate, all three recovered nicely.
If you plan to probe the insides, make sure you use a 117v isolation
transformer. Both ends of the 300v switching section are floating
above ground. If you don't know how to deal with such voltages and
careful grounding, then don't try to fix it. The life you save may be
your own.
However, for a $10 replacement cost, I wouldn't bother trying to fix
it.
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
robert.a.m...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Oct 31, 8:19 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=thinkpad+t22+power+supply
thank you for the URL, I'm not familiar with using eBay, especially
since I avoid eBay like the plague.
but this time, ....any experiences with any of these suppliers?
I resell about 10 assorted laptop style power supplies per month. They
don't come from any specific vendor on eBay. In general, the quality
is identical to what you get from the OEM manufacturer. That's because
they are the same power supplies used by OEM. There may be
differences in labeling and inspection, but that's about all. I've had
no failures or quality problems that I can recall, but I have had some
overheating problems with "universal" supplies, that come with a
variety of tips to fit any laptop. In this case, the T22 power supply
uses the same voltage and tip as many HP and Compaq laptops, resulting
in huge production quantities, and very low prices. If you plan to
continue immersing your power supplies, I suggest purchasing a few
spares. Also, I suggest you get over your phobia of buying on eBay.
For what it's worth, I get better service from most of the small eBay
vendors, than I get from the major online vendors. If eBay and/or
Paypal have somehow offended you, try Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dcomputers&f...
Yes, there is a pigtail fuse inside. just can't read the value on the
UNDERSIDE!
Then guess. Read the nameplate for the maximum 117VAC current.
Multiply that by 2 and you have the fuse rating. You could also
visually compare the visible fuse wire diameter with those from your
fuse collection. My power supply says 1.5A maximum at 117VAC. So, a
2A or 3A sounds about right.
Don't even want to start taking it apart if the rest is dead.
If you're going to try and fix it, first dry it out thoroughly. That
doesn't mean blow some compressed air around the insides. It means
let it sit for days in a warm place to be sure everything has
evaporated. If the immersion was in potentially corrosive liquid, a
clean water wash will be needed. I've fixed several computers, that
were were partly immersed in a tub of rusty water for about a month,
by simply washing the guts, and letting them dry thoroughly. After a
blow dry, they wouldn't run. After a month to let everything
evaporate, all three recovered nicely.
If you plan to probe the insides, make sure you use a 117v isolation
transformer. Both ends of the 300v switching section are floating
above ground. If you don't know how to deal with such voltages and
careful grounding, then don't try to fix it. The life you save may be
your own.
However, for a $10 replacement cost, I wouldn't bother trying to fix
it.
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Bought one of those SMPS on eBay, first time to use eBay. total cost
8.95, arrived fast and they paid 3.28 to ship! labeled China, has no
LED plug in indicator, but that's ok.
The laptop boots up, beeps because the date is set to 1981 [can't see
the screen, backlight is OUT, just know the significance of the beep]
Conclusion SMPS works, laptop basically works. just no screen!
So following the T22 manual dissassembled down to the LCD screen,
could not see anything that looked like liquid and dried salts, so
don't know what's still wrong. Flushed with distilled water anywy and
will let dry. Will see later if that brings it back.
Is the 'inverter card' the ps for the backlight? is it touchy and
blows easily?
If I can find a way to remove the cap covers over the screws without
destroying the cap covers, I'll take out the invreter board and look
at it to see if any obvious damage. Or ohm out the terminals on the
main switching transistor to see if it got toasted. Any ideas?
mike
Guest
Guest
Fri Nov 18, 2011 12:30 am
Robert Macy wrote:
Quote:
On Nov 1, 8:52 am, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
On Tue, 1 Nov 2011 07:59:26 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
robert.a.m...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Oct 31, 8:19 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=thinkpad+t22+power+supply
thank you for the URL, I'm not familiar with using eBay, especially
since I avoid eBay like the plague.
but this time, ....any experiences with any of these suppliers?
I resell about 10 assorted laptop style power supplies per month. They
don't come from any specific vendor on eBay. In general, the quality
is identical to what you get from the OEM manufacturer. That's because
they are the same power supplies used by OEM. There may be
differences in labeling and inspection, but that's about all. I've had
no failures or quality problems that I can recall, but I have had some
overheating problems with "universal" supplies, that come with a
variety of tips to fit any laptop. In this case, the T22 power supply
uses the same voltage and tip as many HP and Compaq laptops, resulting
in huge production quantities, and very low prices. If you plan to
continue immersing your power supplies, I suggest purchasing a few
spares. Also, I suggest you get over your phobia of buying on eBay.
For what it's worth, I get better service from most of the small eBay
vendors, than I get from the major online vendors. If eBay and/or
Paypal have somehow offended you, try Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dcomputers&f...
Yes, there is a pigtail fuse inside. just can't read the value on the
UNDERSIDE!
Then guess. Read the nameplate for the maximum 117VAC current.
Multiply that by 2 and you have the fuse rating. You could also
visually compare the visible fuse wire diameter with those from your
fuse collection. My power supply says 1.5A maximum at 117VAC. So, a
2A or 3A sounds about right.
Don't even want to start taking it apart if the rest is dead.
If you're going to try and fix it, first dry it out thoroughly. That
doesn't mean blow some compressed air around the insides. It means
let it sit for days in a warm place to be sure everything has
evaporated. If the immersion was in potentially corrosive liquid, a
clean water wash will be needed. I've fixed several computers, that
were were partly immersed in a tub of rusty water for about a month,
by simply washing the guts, and letting them dry thoroughly. After a
blow dry, they wouldn't run. After a month to let everything
evaporate, all three recovered nicely.
If you plan to probe the insides, make sure you use a 117v isolation
transformer. Both ends of the 300v switching section are floating
above ground. If you don't know how to deal with such voltages and
careful grounding, then don't try to fix it. The life you save may be
your own.
However, for a $10 replacement cost, I wouldn't bother trying to fix
it.
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Bought one of those SMPS on eBay, first time to use eBay. total cost
8.95, arrived fast and they paid 3.28 to ship! labeled China, has no
LED plug in indicator, but that's ok.
The laptop boots up, beeps because the date is set to 1981 [can't see
the screen, backlight is OUT, just know the significance of the beep]
Conclusion SMPS works, laptop basically works. just no screen!
So following the T22 manual dissassembled down to the LCD screen,
could not see anything that looked like liquid and dried salts, so
don't know what's still wrong. Flushed with distilled water anywy and
will let dry. Will see later if that brings it back.
On Tue, 1 Nov 2011 07:59:26 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
robert.a.m...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Oct 31, 8:19 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=thinkpad+t22+power+supply
thank you for the URL, I'm not familiar with using eBay, especially
since I avoid eBay like the plague.
but this time, ....any experiences with any of these suppliers?
I resell about 10 assorted laptop style power supplies per month. They
don't come from any specific vendor on eBay. In general, the quality
is identical to what you get from the OEM manufacturer. That's because
they are the same power supplies used by OEM. There may be
differences in labeling and inspection, but that's about all. I've had
no failures or quality problems that I can recall, but I have had some
overheating problems with "universal" supplies, that come with a
variety of tips to fit any laptop. In this case, the T22 power supply
uses the same voltage and tip as many HP and Compaq laptops, resulting
in huge production quantities, and very low prices. If you plan to
continue immersing your power supplies, I suggest purchasing a few
spares. Also, I suggest you get over your phobia of buying on eBay.
For what it's worth, I get better service from most of the small eBay
vendors, than I get from the major online vendors. If eBay and/or
Paypal have somehow offended you, try Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dcomputers&f...
Yes, there is a pigtail fuse inside. just can't read the value on the
UNDERSIDE!
Then guess. Read the nameplate for the maximum 117VAC current.
Multiply that by 2 and you have the fuse rating. You could also
visually compare the visible fuse wire diameter with those from your
fuse collection. My power supply says 1.5A maximum at 117VAC. So, a
2A or 3A sounds about right.
Don't even want to start taking it apart if the rest is dead.
If you're going to try and fix it, first dry it out thoroughly. That
doesn't mean blow some compressed air around the insides. It means
let it sit for days in a warm place to be sure everything has
evaporated. If the immersion was in potentially corrosive liquid, a
clean water wash will be needed. I've fixed several computers, that
were were partly immersed in a tub of rusty water for about a month,
by simply washing the guts, and letting them dry thoroughly. After a
blow dry, they wouldn't run. After a month to let everything
evaporate, all three recovered nicely.
If you plan to probe the insides, make sure you use a 117v isolation
transformer. Both ends of the 300v switching section are floating
above ground. If you don't know how to deal with such voltages and
careful grounding, then don't try to fix it. The life you save may be
your own.
However, for a $10 replacement cost, I wouldn't bother trying to fix
it.
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Bought one of those SMPS on eBay, first time to use eBay. total cost
8.95, arrived fast and they paid 3.28 to ship! labeled China, has no
LED plug in indicator, but that's ok.
The laptop boots up, beeps because the date is set to 1981 [can't see
the screen, backlight is OUT, just know the significance of the beep]
Conclusion SMPS works, laptop basically works. just no screen!
So following the T22 manual dissassembled down to the LCD screen,
could not see anything that looked like liquid and dried salts, so
don't know what's still wrong. Flushed with distilled water anywy and
will let dry. Will see later if that brings it back.
Flushed WHAT with distilled water?
Does the display work on an external monitor?
Make sure you don't have the display turned off.
Make sure the cmos battery is good and that you've
reset the BIOS defaults. With dumpster laptops of unknown
provenance, I've seen BIOS parameter corruption cause all
manner of weird symptoms.
Had one laptop that refused to do anything until I unsoldered
the cmos battery then put it back.
Quote:
Is the 'inverter card' the ps for the backlight? is it touchy and
blows easily?
Not unless you flush the high voltage transformer with water.
But the inverter and lamp are the weakest links.
Quote:
If I can find a way to remove the cap covers over the screws without
destroying the cap covers, I'll take out the invreter board and look
at it to see if any obvious damage. Or ohm out the terminals on the
main switching transistor to see if it got toasted. Any ideas?
Depending on the inverter topology, you may not be able to ohm out the
transistors. You'd be looking at the transformer.
It takes a lot of volts to strike a fluorescent backlight. I the lamp
cracks, it doesn't strike and limit the voltage. Increased voltage
can arc the HV transformer or spike the fets. Even if the engineer
were conscientious and protected against that, the bean counters
might have been more concerned with saving two cents than limiting a
secondary failure mode.
End result is that a new inverter might fail if the lamp is bad.
Testing the lamp first is safest, but there's no easy way to do that
with tools in your toolbox. Substituting another lamp works, but
there are connector compatibility issues.
Risk is gonna vary considerably by vendor and specific design.
As an aside...at a garage sale, I found a device that emits RF
used to test fluorescent lamps. I thought this would solve the lamp
testing problem. Tested it on a lamp removed from a display and
it worked great.
After thinking about it, I got very concerned about
the RF blowing up the column drivers while I was testing
a lamp still inside the LCD assembly, so never tried it.
Check the DC into the inverter first.
I've seen pinched display cables.
Also had one laptop that had a display power fuse on the motherboard
near the graphics chip. Looked like a SMT cap. Took me a while to
realize it was a fuse.
The inverter puts out high voltage. There might be enough charge
left on the capacitance of the lamp and the series capacitor to make
a wet spot on your chair. The voltage probably won't hurt you, but
the stuff you bang into or trip over while trying to get away might.
40 years ago, I scratched a cornea on an antenna wire I flipped up
while flying out the back of a TV set.
elektroda.net NewsGroups Forum Index - Repair Electronics - Fuse size in IBM ThinkPad T22 wallwart power supply
