Chip with simple program for Toy

On 2010-07-07, W. eWatson<wolftracks_at_invalid.com> wrote:
On 7/7/2010 4:59 AM, Jasen Betts wrote:
On 2010-07-06, W. eWatson<wolftracks_at_invalid.com> wrote:


I constructed the battery pack in the link above, but w/o the coil. I
plugged it into the 1004ifd and immediately got something of a single
note noise from the device. This seems wrong. Any ideas? I did not
connect to the LNB and disk.

with the input open circuit unloaded and the output shorted it could be oscilating,
or that could be the base level tone.

Thanks. So I should put the choke in and connect the LNB? Yes, F.

Yeah, the choke will probably help, for even better termination you could stick a 75 ohm
resistor (82 is probably close enough) in parallel with the choke and a 100pF capacitor parallel
with the battery. But that may not be needed,

Pointing the LNB arm of the dish (which point in the approximate
direction of the focus) somewhere in the general direction of the sun (during the
day) and you should get a big peak on the meter.

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news_at_netfront.net ---
I hadn't realized that some years ago I had put a choke on the cable. I

On 7/8/2010 2:44 AM, Jasen Betts wrote:
On 2010-07-07, W. eWatson<wolftracks_at_invalid.com> wrote:
On 7/7/2010 4:59 AM, Jasen Betts wrote:
On 2010-07-06, W. eWatson<wolftracks_at_invalid.com> wrote:


I constructed the battery pack in the link above, but w/o the coil. I
plugged it into the 1004ifd and immediately got something of a single
note noise from the device. This seems wrong. Any ideas? I did not
connect to the LNB and disk.

with the input open circuit unloaded and the output shorted it could
be oscilating,
or that could be the base level tone.

Thanks. So I should put the choke in and connect the LNB? Yes, F.

Yeah, the choke will probably help, for even better termination you
could stick a 75 ohm
resistor (82 is probably close enough) in parallel with the choke and
a 100pF capacitor parallel
with the battery. But that may not be needed,

Pointing the LNB arm of the dish (which point in the approximate
direction of the focus) somewhere in the general direction of the sun
(during the
day) and you should get a big peak on the meter.

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news_at_netfront.net ---
I hadn't realized that some years ago I had put a choke on the cable. I
happened to remove some of the deteriorating electrical tape.

Now I am at a loss. I hooked up the LNB on the dish, and still get the
squeal. Maybe that's OK. The CM sees a voltage of 10 on it's meter or 35
on signal strength. That corresponds to what I measure across the
battery pack with my volt meter. It looks like gain may jack up the
signal strength. It may change the pitch. Not sure. Things get louder.

I have a second (Aspen) LNB detached from the dish. The LNB on the dish
was part of the original equipment.

OK, I've got something going with the Aspen. If I point it at the
ground, the needle goes up. If I point at the sky, it goes to zero.
Pointing it near the sun doesn't change the sky reading, since I
probably need to use the disk and point it at the sun. I think the link
above gives some clues about pointing.

I'll be back shortly. I went to get my voltmeter, and when I came back
wasn't hearing much of anything. I checked the voltage at it's up around
9v. Interestingly, the sun was getting blocked by some clouds. Probably
not related. I hope the batteries aren't getting drained by this
exercise, AA. They were fresh.

I think some more fiddling is required.
OK, here's the deal. With the Aspen I have the meter around 30 with it

Hi,
We are looking for some people that are interested in working from
their home on a part or full-time basis.

If you want to earn $100, $200 or even up to $500 a day, and you don't
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Tim Williams wrote:

"Jan Panteltje" <pNaonStpealmtje_at_yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:i3hmi5$hhb$1_at_news.albasani.net...
If you mathematically look at it, look up Fourrier transform,

Four rear transform?

Rule 34, it lives

No, its 'furrier' transform. Because the math is pretty hairy.

It used to be 110, decades ago and has crept up to a nominal 120.

check any old appliance with a cloth and rubber cord. they'll be
maked 110, 115 and even 117 volts and maybe even 60 "cycles".

Old appliances in europe had 220-240V (written on a backside-badge)
input. The former 220V standard has been raised to 230V today.

Bad designed circuitry, awaiting exactly 110 or 220V, might have a
heat-problem.... that's all, but can destroy a device in long term
though.

Cydrome Leader wrote:

It used to be 110, decades ago and has crept up to a nominal 120.

check any old appliance with a cloth and rubber cord. they'll be
maked 110, 115 and even 117 volts and maybe even 60 "cycles".

Hi!


I thought it is 115V in America today....

Old appliances in europe had 220-240V (written on a backside-badge)
input. The former 220V standard has been raised to 230V today.

Bad designed circuitry, awaiting exactly 110 or 220V, might have a
heat-problem.... that's all, but can destroy a device in long term
though.

---
120V nominal, +/- 10%
---

You're an Idiot.

If you want to find out why, post back with why you think you're not
and I'll be happy to light you up, even if you can't stand the heat.

JF

John Fields wrote:

---
120V nominal, +/- 10%
---

blackouts and idiot user on the other end of the stripe
No blind-current compensators etc. (you are the idiots, and that with
110 voltage)

You're an Idiot.

If you want to find out why, post back with why you think you're not
and I'll be happy to light you up, even if you can't stand the heat.

you mean a circuitry will not get more warm when having 238 instead of
220 volt. C'mon...

---
What makes you think it has to?

---
JF

Pellentesque dign
cut

On 09/24/2010 11:48 AM, panfilero wrote:
Hello,

ok, say you've got a DC voltage supply in series with a switch and an
inductor, the inductor ties back into the power supply completing a
circuit. ok, the switch is closed for a little bit then opened....
from what I understand this causes the inductor to produce a hell of a
voltage across itself cause it doesn't like the drastic change in
current. now the switch is open, the circuit it broken there's no
loop for the current... my question is... is there current flowing?
even though it's a broken line because of the switch? If the inductor
is pushin current out of itself, is there current flowing through the
inductor or just out one end of the inductor? I've heard you can
really mess up a switch this way, with that high voltage across the
inductor hanging on one end of the switch... but if the other end of
the switch is floating, how does the switch get damage? I mean, there
can't be any current flowing through the switch, can there? If one end
is floating?

much thanks!

Here's the sequence:

Everything is at rest, and the switch is open.

Then you close the switch. Current starts ramping up in the inductor,
because V = L * di/dt.

Now you open the switch. WHAM! The current in the inductor goes down
really fast, so V goes up really high. At this point, one of two things
are going to happen, based on things that aren't on your schematic:
either that current from the inductor will go to charging up it's own
native capacitance (doubtful, or at least doubtful that it'll be the
only thing happening), or the voltage across the switch contacts --
which probably haven't opened all the way yet -- will be sufficient to
make it arc.

It's the arc that damages the switch (and possibly other things in your
circuit). It's the same effect that makes the old mechanical Kettering
ignition system work, except there the spark is controlled and directed
to the spark plugs.

It's that same urge to just make as much voltage as necessary to flow
the current that damages transistors that turn coils on and off, unless
you put in some sort of snubber or other device to absorb the energy
stored in the coil.

And to make a boost switching converter.