elektroda.net NewsGroups Forum Index - Repair Electronics - CFL on photo on/off?
Guest
Thu Mar 11, 2010 10:59 pm
What is the problem with operating a CFL on a dusk to dawn device that
uses a photo sensor? Does it suffer the same fate as running the CFL
on a dimmer that is full on? That's my guess. My motion sensor
security light has an option to turn the lamps on manually and shut
them off in the morning automatically when it's light enough out. But
it has a relay that makes an aduible click. I would assume a simple
light sensing fixture is switched with a triac and this causes a
pulsedvoltage that harms the CFL ballast.
Samuel M. Goldwasser
Guest
Guest
Fri Mar 12, 2010 1:00 am
Meat Plow writes:
Quote:
What is the problem with operating a CFL on a dusk to dawn device that
uses a photo sensor? Does it suffer the same fate as running the CFL
on a dimmer that is full on? That's my guess. My motion sensor
security light has an option to turn the lamps on manually and shut
them off in the morning automatically when it's light enough out. But
it has a relay that makes an aduible click. I would assume a simple
light sensing fixture is switched with a triac and this causes a
pulsedvoltage that harms the CFL ballast.
uses a photo sensor? Does it suffer the same fate as running the CFL
on a dimmer that is full on? That's my guess. My motion sensor
security light has an option to turn the lamps on manually and shut
them off in the morning automatically when it's light enough out. But
it has a relay that makes an aduible click. I would assume a simple
light sensing fixture is switched with a triac and this causes a
pulsedvoltage that harms the CFL ballast.
The problem is that these photosensitive devices draw their power through
the lamp, so there's a trickle of current flowing even when it's supposed
to be off. With an incandecent lamp, this doesn't matter. But with a CFL,
if you're lucky, the result is the lamp flashing on momentarily like a strobe
periodically but no damage to it. :)
--
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Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
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Guest
Fri Mar 12, 2010 1:26 am
On 11 Mar 2010 19:00:12 -0500, sam_at_repairfaq.org (Samuel M.
Goldwasser)wrote:
Quote:
Meat Plow writes:
What is the problem with operating a CFL on a dusk to dawn device that
uses a photo sensor? Does it suffer the same fate as running the CFL
on a dimmer that is full on? That's my guess. My motion sensor
security light has an option to turn the lamps on manually and shut
them off in the morning automatically when it's light enough out. But
it has a relay that makes an aduible click. I would assume a simple
light sensing fixture is switched with a triac and this causes a
pulsedvoltage that harms the CFL ballast.
The problem is that these photosensitive devices draw their power through
the lamp, so there's a trickle of current flowing even when it's supposed
to be off. With an incandecent lamp, this doesn't matter. But with a CFL,
if you're lucky, the result is the lamp flashing on momentarily like a strobe
periodically but no damage to it.
What is the problem with operating a CFL on a dusk to dawn device that
uses a photo sensor? Does it suffer the same fate as running the CFL
on a dimmer that is full on? That's my guess. My motion sensor
security light has an option to turn the lamps on manually and shut
them off in the morning automatically when it's light enough out. But
it has a relay that makes an aduible click. I would assume a simple
light sensing fixture is switched with a triac and this causes a
pulsedvoltage that harms the CFL ballast.
The problem is that these photosensitive devices draw their power through
the lamp, so there's a trickle of current flowing even when it's supposed
to be off. With an incandecent lamp, this doesn't matter. But with a CFL,
if you're lucky, the result is the lamp flashing on momentarily like a strobe
periodically but no damage to it.
Makes sense, thanks Sam.
Allodoxaphobia
Guest
Guest
Fri Mar 12, 2010 3:27 am
On 11 Mar 2010 19:00:12 -0500, Samuel M. Goldwasser wrote:
Quote:
Meat Plow writes:
What is the problem with operating a CFL on a dusk to dawn device that
uses a photo sensor? Does it suffer the same fate as running the CFL
on a dimmer that is full on? That's my guess. My motion sensor
security light has an option to turn the lamps on manually and shut
them off in the morning automatically when it's light enough out. But
it has a relay that makes an aduible click. I would assume a simple
light sensing fixture is switched with a triac and this causes a
pulsedvoltage that harms the CFL ballast.
The problem is that these photosensitive devices draw their power through
the lamp, so there's a trickle of current flowing even when it's supposed
to be off. With an incandecent lamp, this doesn't matter. But with a CFL,
if you're lucky, the result is the lamp flashing on momentarily like a strobe
periodically but no damage to it.
What is the problem with operating a CFL on a dusk to dawn device that
uses a photo sensor? Does it suffer the same fate as running the CFL
on a dimmer that is full on? That's my guess. My motion sensor
security light has an option to turn the lamps on manually and shut
them off in the morning automatically when it's light enough out. But
it has a relay that makes an aduible click. I would assume a simple
light sensing fixture is switched with a triac and this causes a
pulsedvoltage that harms the CFL ballast.
The problem is that these photosensitive devices draw their power through
the lamp, so there's a trickle of current flowing even when it's supposed
to be off. With an incandecent lamp, this doesn't matter. But with a CFL,
if you're lucky, the result is the lamp flashing on momentarily like a strobe
periodically but no damage to it.
I hedge my bets: In a 2 lamp device I use 1 incandecent and 1 CFL. :-)
Jonesy
--
Marvin L Jones | jonz | W3DHJ | linux
38.24N 104.55W | @ config.com | Jonesy | OS/2
* Killfiling google & XXXXbanter.com: jonz.net/ng.htm
Samuel M. Goldwasser
Guest
Guest
Fri Mar 12, 2010 2:24 pm
Allodoxaphobia <bit-bucket_at_config.com> writes:
Quote:
On 11 Mar 2010 19:00:12 -0500, Samuel M. Goldwasser wrote:
Meat Plow writes:
What is the problem with operating a CFL on a dusk to dawn device that
uses a photo sensor? Does it suffer the same fate as running the CFL
on a dimmer that is full on? That's my guess. My motion sensor
security light has an option to turn the lamps on manually and shut
them off in the morning automatically when it's light enough out. But
it has a relay that makes an aduible click. I would assume a simple
light sensing fixture is switched with a triac and this causes a
pulsedvoltage that harms the CFL ballast.
The problem is that these photosensitive devices draw their power through
the lamp, so there's a trickle of current flowing even when it's supposed
to be off. With an incandecent lamp, this doesn't matter. But with a CFL,
if you're lucky, the result is the lamp flashing on momentarily like a strobe
periodically but no damage to it. :)
I hedge my bets: In a 2 lamp device I use 1 incandecent and 1 CFL.
Meat Plow writes:
What is the problem with operating a CFL on a dusk to dawn device that
uses a photo sensor? Does it suffer the same fate as running the CFL
on a dimmer that is full on? That's my guess. My motion sensor
security light has an option to turn the lamps on manually and shut
them off in the morning automatically when it's light enough out. But
it has a relay that makes an aduible click. I would assume a simple
light sensing fixture is switched with a triac and this causes a
pulsedvoltage that harms the CFL ballast.
The problem is that these photosensitive devices draw their power through
the lamp, so there's a trickle of current flowing even when it's supposed
to be off. With an incandecent lamp, this doesn't matter. But with a CFL,
if you're lucky, the result is the lamp flashing on momentarily like a strobe
periodically but no damage to it. :)
I hedge my bets: In a 2 lamp device I use 1 incandecent and 1 CFL.
Good solution! The only concern would be if the photosensor device doesn't
switch (mostly) on or off cleanly.
--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html
Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
William R. Walsh
Guest
Guest
Fri Mar 12, 2010 5:02 pm
Hi!
Quote:
The problem is that these photosensitive devices draw their power
through the lamp, so there's a trickle of current flowing even when
it's supposed to be off. With an incandecent lamp, this doesn't
matter.
through the lamp, so there's a trickle of current flowing even when
it's supposed to be off. With an incandecent lamp, this doesn't
matter.
I'm glad someone brought this up, because there is something I'd like
to know.
I've got an outdoor porch light on a post that has a 100 watt
equivalent CFL bulb in it. The fixture itself is made of cheap
plastic, and the light is on fairly often, so I feel better using the
CFL as opposed to a 100 watt incandescent. (However, I haven't noticed
a maximum wattage rating on the fixture itself.)
I'd like to switch this light via photocell.
To prevent any possible "abuse" to the CFL, I'd like to have the
photocell device turn a relay on and off. Is it possible to do that,
or would it result in unacceptable behavor (buzzing, etc) from the
relay?
If it won't work, I could always use a timer of some sort.
William
David Nebenzahl
Guest
Guest
Fri Mar 12, 2010 7:42 pm
On 3/12/2010 7:02 AM William R. Walsh spake thus:
Quote:
The problem is that these photosensitive devices draw their power
through the lamp, so there's a trickle of current flowing even when
it's supposed to be off. With an incandecent lamp, this doesn't
matter.
I'm glad someone brought this up, because there is something I'd like
to know.
I've got an outdoor porch light on a post that has a 100 watt
equivalent CFL bulb in it. The fixture itself is made of cheap
plastic, and the light is on fairly often, so I feel better using the
CFL as opposed to a 100 watt incandescent. (However, I haven't noticed
a maximum wattage rating on the fixture itself.)
I'd like to switch this light via photocell.
through the lamp, so there's a trickle of current flowing even when
it's supposed to be off. With an incandecent lamp, this doesn't
matter.
I'm glad someone brought this up, because there is something I'd like
to know.
I've got an outdoor porch light on a post that has a 100 watt
equivalent CFL bulb in it. The fixture itself is made of cheap
plastic, and the light is on fairly often, so I feel better using the
CFL as opposed to a 100 watt incandescent. (However, I haven't noticed
a maximum wattage rating on the fixture itself.)
I'd like to switch this light via photocell.
Keep in mind that CFLs are often not good candidates for this kind of
application, because the length of time they take to warm up is often
the same as the length of time they're on, so they don't do a very good
job of lighting up the area you want illuminated. For an intermittent
application like this, it's probably just as cost-effective overall just
to use a good old-fashioned incandescent lamp.
--
You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.
- a Usenet "apology"
Guest
Fri Mar 12, 2010 7:52 pm
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 10:42:15 -0800, David Nebenzahl
<nobody_at_but.us.chickens>wrote:
Quote:
On 3/12/2010 7:02 AM William R. Walsh spake thus:
The problem is that these photosensitive devices draw their power
through the lamp, so there's a trickle of current flowing even when
it's supposed to be off. With an incandecent lamp, this doesn't
matter.
I'm glad someone brought this up, because there is something I'd like
to know.
I've got an outdoor porch light on a post that has a 100 watt
equivalent CFL bulb in it. The fixture itself is made of cheap
plastic, and the light is on fairly often, so I feel better using the
CFL as opposed to a 100 watt incandescent. (However, I haven't noticed
a maximum wattage rating on the fixture itself.)
I'd like to switch this light via photocell.
Keep in mind that CFLs are often not good candidates for this kind of
application, because the length of time they take to warm up is often
the same as the length of time they're on, so they don't do a very good
job of lighting up the area you want illuminated. For an intermittent
application like this, it's probably just as cost-effective overall just
to use a good old-fashioned incandescent lamp.
The problem is that these photosensitive devices draw their power
through the lamp, so there's a trickle of current flowing even when
it's supposed to be off. With an incandecent lamp, this doesn't
matter.
I'm glad someone brought this up, because there is something I'd like
to know.
I've got an outdoor porch light on a post that has a 100 watt
equivalent CFL bulb in it. The fixture itself is made of cheap
plastic, and the light is on fairly often, so I feel better using the
CFL as opposed to a 100 watt incandescent. (However, I haven't noticed
a maximum wattage rating on the fixture itself.)
I'd like to switch this light via photocell.
Keep in mind that CFLs are often not good candidates for this kind of
application, because the length of time they take to warm up is often
the same as the length of time they're on, so they don't do a very good
job of lighting up the area you want illuminated. For an intermittent
application like this, it's probably just as cost-effective overall just
to use a good old-fashioned incandescent lamp.
But it would be ok for a dusk to dawn security light?
David Nebenzahl
Guest
Guest
Fri Mar 12, 2010 8:41 pm
On 3/12/2010 10:52 AM Meat Plow spake thus:
Quote:
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 10:42:15 -0800, David Nebenzahl
nobody_at_but.us.chickens>wrote:
On 3/12/2010 7:02 AM William R. Walsh spake thus:
The problem is that these photosensitive devices draw their power
through the lamp, so there's a trickle of current flowing even when
it's supposed to be off. With an incandecent lamp, this doesn't
matter.
I'm glad someone brought this up, because there is something I'd like
to know.
I've got an outdoor porch light on a post that has a 100 watt
equivalent CFL bulb in it. The fixture itself is made of cheap
plastic, and the light is on fairly often, so I feel better using the
CFL as opposed to a 100 watt incandescent. (However, I haven't noticed
a maximum wattage rating on the fixture itself.)
I'd like to switch this light via photocell.
Keep in mind that CFLs are often not good candidates for this kind
of application, because the length of time they take to warm up is
often the same as the length of time they're on, so they don't do a
very good job of lighting up the area you want illuminated. For an
intermittent application like this, it's probably just as
cost-effective overall just to use a good old-fashioned
incandescent lamp.
But it would be ok for a dusk to dawn security light?
nobody_at_but.us.chickens>wrote:
On 3/12/2010 7:02 AM William R. Walsh spake thus:
The problem is that these photosensitive devices draw their power
through the lamp, so there's a trickle of current flowing even when
it's supposed to be off. With an incandecent lamp, this doesn't
matter.
I'm glad someone brought this up, because there is something I'd like
to know.
I've got an outdoor porch light on a post that has a 100 watt
equivalent CFL bulb in it. The fixture itself is made of cheap
plastic, and the light is on fairly often, so I feel better using the
CFL as opposed to a 100 watt incandescent. (However, I haven't noticed
a maximum wattage rating on the fixture itself.)
I'd like to switch this light via photocell.
Keep in mind that CFLs are often not good candidates for this kind
of application, because the length of time they take to warm up is
often the same as the length of time they're on, so they don't do a
very good job of lighting up the area you want illuminated. For an
intermittent application like this, it's probably just as
cost-effective overall just to use a good old-fashioned
incandescent lamp.
But it would be ok for a dusk to dawn security light?
Yup, that would be a good place for a CFL. (Assuming it plays nicely
with the controller, that is.)
--
You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.
- a Usenet "apology"
Michael A. Terrell
Guest
Guest
Sat Mar 13, 2010 4:23 am
David Nebenzahl wrote:
Quote:
On 3/12/2010 10:52 AM Meat Plow spake thus:
On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 10:42:15 -0800, David Nebenzahl
nobody_at_but.us.chickens>wrote:
On 3/12/2010 7:02 AM William R. Walsh spake thus:
The problem is that these photosensitive devices draw their power
through the lamp, so there's a trickle of current flowing even when
it's supposed to be off. With an incandecent lamp, this doesn't
matter.
I'm glad someone brought this up, because there is something I'd like
to know.
I've got an outdoor porch light on a post that has a 100 watt
equivalent CFL bulb in it. The fixture itself is made of cheap
plastic, and the light is on fairly often, so I feel better using the
CFL as opposed to a 100 watt incandescent. (However, I haven't noticed
a maximum wattage rating on the fixture itself.)
I'd like to switch this light via photocell.
Keep in mind that CFLs are often not good candidates for this kind
of application, because the length of time they take to warm up is
often the same as the length of time they're on, so they don't do a
very good job of lighting up the area you want illuminated. For an
intermittent application like this, it's probably just as
cost-effective overall just to use a good old-fashioned
incandescent lamp.
But it would be ok for a dusk to dawn security light?
Yup, that would be a good place for a CFL. (Assuming it plays nicely
with the controller, that is.)
They sell dusk to dawn security lights made for CFL. My dad
installed one with a 65 Watt CFL he bought at Lowe's or Home Depot for
his place. It was several years ago and he doesn't remember, for sure.
He also bought a smaller one, to light the sidewalk to his driveway.
--
Lead free solder is Belgium's version of 'Hold my beer and watch this!'
[SMF]
Guest
Guest
Sat Mar 13, 2010 6:09 am
On 3/12/2010 9:02 AM, William R. Walsh wrote:
Quote:
Hi!
The problem is that these photosensitive devices draw their power
through the lamp, so there's a trickle of current flowing even when
it's supposed to be off. With an incandecent lamp, this doesn't
matter.
I'm glad someone brought this up, because there is something I'd like
to know.
I've got an outdoor porch light on a post that has a 100 watt
equivalent CFL bulb in it. The fixture itself is made of cheap
plastic, and the light is on fairly often, so I feel better using the
CFL as opposed to a 100 watt incandescent. (However, I haven't noticed
a maximum wattage rating on the fixture itself.)
I'd like to switch this light via photocell.
To prevent any possible "abuse" to the CFL, I'd like to have the
photocell device turn a relay on and off. Is it possible to do that,
or would it result in unacceptable behavor (buzzing, etc) from the
relay?
If it won't work, I could always use a timer of some sort.
William
The problem is that these photosensitive devices draw their power
through the lamp, so there's a trickle of current flowing even when
it's supposed to be off. With an incandecent lamp, this doesn't
matter.
I'm glad someone brought this up, because there is something I'd like
to know.
I've got an outdoor porch light on a post that has a 100 watt
equivalent CFL bulb in it. The fixture itself is made of cheap
plastic, and the light is on fairly often, so I feel better using the
CFL as opposed to a 100 watt incandescent. (However, I haven't noticed
a maximum wattage rating on the fixture itself.)
I'd like to switch this light via photocell.
To prevent any possible "abuse" to the CFL, I'd like to have the
photocell device turn a relay on and off. Is it possible to do that,
or would it result in unacceptable behavor (buzzing, etc) from the
relay?
If it won't work, I could always use a timer of some sort.
William
You shouldn't have any problems running a relay with a photo-cell.
GregS
Guest
Guest
Mon Mar 15, 2010 2:20 pm
In article <3j8eko.9cf.19.5_at_news.alt.net>, Meat Plow wrote:
Quote:
What is the problem with operating a CFL on a dusk to dawn device that
uses a photo sensor? Does it suffer the same fate as running the CFL
on a dimmer that is full on? That's my guess. My motion sensor
security light has an option to turn the lamps on manually and shut
them off in the morning automatically when it's light enough out. But
it has a relay that makes an aduible click. I would assume a simple
light sensing fixture is switched with a triac and this causes a
pulsedvoltage that harms the CFL ballast.
uses a photo sensor? Does it suffer the same fate as running the CFL
on a dimmer that is full on? That's my guess. My motion sensor
security light has an option to turn the lamps on manually and shut
them off in the morning automatically when it's light enough out. But
it has a relay that makes an aduible click. I would assume a simple
light sensing fixture is switched with a triac and this causes a
pulsedvoltage that harms the CFL ballast.
Most photodensors use a relay. No different from a switch.
greg
GregS
Guest
Guest
Mon Mar 15, 2010 2:24 pm
In article <hnlbvt$g53$2_at_usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>, zekfrivo_at_zekfrivolous.com (GregS) wrote:
Quote:
In article <3j8eko.9cf.19.5_at_news.alt.net>, Meat Plow wrote:
What is the problem with operating a CFL on a dusk to dawn device that
uses a photo sensor? Does it suffer the same fate as running the CFL
on a dimmer that is full on? That's my guess. My motion sensor
security light has an option to turn the lamps on manually and shut
them off in the morning automatically when it's light enough out. But
it has a relay that makes an aduible click. I would assume a simple
light sensing fixture is switched with a triac and this causes a
pulsedvoltage that harms the CFL ballast.
Most photodensors use a relay. No different from a switch.
greg
What is the problem with operating a CFL on a dusk to dawn device that
uses a photo sensor? Does it suffer the same fate as running the CFL
on a dimmer that is full on? That's my guess. My motion sensor
security light has an option to turn the lamps on manually and shut
them off in the morning automatically when it's light enough out. But
it has a relay that makes an aduible click. I would assume a simple
light sensing fixture is switched with a triac and this causes a
pulsedvoltage that harms the CFL ballast.
Most photodensors use a relay. No different from a switch.
greg
That said, I don't remember if there was a warning, but I can hear a click on mine.
I used to keep it on, and would last a year or more. I'll see how long
it lasts not with a sensor, along with two led spotlights.
greg
Guest
Mon Mar 15, 2010 2:56 pm
On Mon, 15 Mar 2010 13:20:42 GMT, zekfrivo_at_zekfrivolous.com
(GregS)wrote:
Quote:
In article <3j8eko.9cf.19.5_at_news.alt.net>, Meat Plow wrote:
What is the problem with operating a CFL on a dusk to dawn device that
uses a photo sensor? Does it suffer the same fate as running the CFL
on a dimmer that is full on? That's my guess. My motion sensor
security light has an option to turn the lamps on manually and shut
them off in the morning automatically when it's light enough out. But
it has a relay that makes an aduible click. I would assume a simple
light sensing fixture is switched with a triac and this causes a
pulsedvoltage that harms the CFL ballast.
Most photodensors use a relay. No different from a switch.
greg
What is the problem with operating a CFL on a dusk to dawn device that
uses a photo sensor? Does it suffer the same fate as running the CFL
on a dimmer that is full on? That's my guess. My motion sensor
security light has an option to turn the lamps on manually and shut
them off in the morning automatically when it's light enough out. But
it has a relay that makes an aduible click. I would assume a simple
light sensing fixture is switched with a triac and this causes a
pulsedvoltage that harms the CFL ballast.
Most photodensors use a relay. No different from a switch.
greg
Even the kind that screw into a light fixture?
Guest
Mon Mar 15, 2010 3:00 pm
On Mon, 15 Mar 2010 13:54:04 +0000 (UTC), "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"
<gsm_at_cable.mendelson.com>wrote:
Quote:
Meat Plow wrote:
What is the problem with operating a CFL on a dusk to dawn device that
uses a photo sensor?
I'm not sure I'd bother. For example, we have a bathroom with no windows
in the middle of a dark hallway. I just out in a CFL and leave it on.
Lights up the room, lights up the hallway.
At what I pay for electricity it costs under $9 a year, which is less than the
cost of a light operated switch or timer, and probably less current than
a timer anyway.
Geoff.
What is the problem with operating a CFL on a dusk to dawn device that
uses a photo sensor?
I'm not sure I'd bother. For example, we have a bathroom with no windows
in the middle of a dark hallway. I just out in a CFL and leave it on.
Lights up the room, lights up the hallway.
At what I pay for electricity it costs under $9 a year, which is less than the
cost of a light operated switch or timer, and probably less current than
a timer anyway.
Geoff.
Outside Lamp post for my mom. She says traditional bulbs don't last
long enough and there is no way to enable it in an always on mode.
Besides she is too frugal to want to let it operate 24/7. She's the
kind of person who washes out tin foil and reuses it
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