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Guest
Tue Aug 17, 2010 12:54 am
On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 19:05:20 +0100, "Toby"
<postmaster_at_127.0.0.1.invalid> wrote:
Quote:
"john hamilton" <bluestar95_at_mail.invalid> wrote in message
news:i4btbg$m7c$1_at_news.eternal-september.org...
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
easily melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
anything to stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole
will bend upwards giving some clearence).
http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in
the connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
unwinding. Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.
Solder is the only reliable way, IMO
Just bend the tabs out, so they are not touching the plastic, make sure the
iron is nice and hot, dab some solder on the end of the iron, then place
this on one of the tabs and feed in a little more solder to tin the tab,
should take a couple of seconds.
Now strip about 5mm of the wires and tin the end of the wire, if the
insulation shrinks back, then snip the end of the wire off so it is about
5mm.
Place the wire on top of the solder on the tab and heat the wire until the
solder on the tab melts again.
Hold the wire with something other than your hand, as it may get quite hot!
Once it has cooled, marvel at your handywork :-)
Or, buy these two from eBay, or anywhere that sells this sort of stuff...
350373699059 (Twin AA battery holder with a PP£ type connector on the top)
and one of these
350350685890 (PP3 battery connector)
Toby...
Ore use a conductive "glue" like the stuff sold to fix rear window
defroster grids, or printed circuit traces. After making the good
electrical contact with that (it is usually silver bearing) add a dab
of epoxy, or even hot melt glue, to give it a bit of mechanical
support.
Or just learn to solder - - - - .the low temperature eutectic "paste
solder" would actually work pretty good for this and only requires
minimal heat.
Stormin Mormon
Guest
Tue Aug 17, 2010 12:57 am
I was thinking to enlarge the holes in the tabs, and use pop rivets.
Sadly, the battery holder pictured won't take .250 push on connectors,
I don't think. The metal is chromed, so solder won't stick very well,
it's also likely steel. There is no really good way to make the
connection.
Wire through the hole, twist the wire, and solder the wire to itself
is about the best answer I can find.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..
"Fred McKenzie" <fmmck_at_aol.com> wrote in message
news:fmmck-102C3C.15445916082010_at_news.mixmin.net...
What about threading tiny self-tapping screws into the holes in the
rivets that connect the lugs to the contacts?
Fred
Guest
Tue Aug 17, 2010 1:00 am
On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 17:34:22 -0400, "Ralph Mowery"
<rmowery28146_at_earthlink.net> wrote:
Quote:
"Bob Eager" <rde42_at_spamcop.net> wrote in message
news:8ctifbFl54U2_at_mid.individual.net...
On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, john hamilton wrote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
easily melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
anything to stick to the tabs.
To add to the other suggestions about soldering: if you can get/borrow a
temperature controlled iron, run it at a lower temperature and use 63/37
solder.
That is usually the wrong way to do the job he wants to do. Use a very hot
iron, hit the joint fast with a lot of heat and then get out quick. The
tabs will get hot very quick and melt the solder. If he applies a low heat,
the plastic will get a lot of heat on it before the tab gets hot enough to
melt the solder.
The 63/73 is the way to go, but 60/40 is just fine. Also do not move the
wires while the solder is cooling. This is one big way to mess up the
joint.
And a good reason to use 63/37. It is a "fast freeze" solder (the real
term is Eutectic - meaning it has a very narrow "plastic" range,
essentially going almost instantly from solid to liquid, and liquid to
sollid, with no "putty" stage in between.
tm
Guest
Tue Aug 17, 2010 1:19 am
"Stormin Mormon" <cayoung##spamblock**@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Rfkao.67860$4B7.52675_at_newsfe16.iad...
Quote:
I was thinking to enlarge the holes in the tabs, and use pop rivets.
Sadly, the battery holder pictured won't take .250 push on connectors,
I don't think. The metal is chromed, so solder won't stick very well,
it's also likely steel. There is no really good way to make the
connection.
I would be most surprised if they were chromed. Most likely a thin nickel
plate
to prevent oxidation. Solder will work fine. That's why they put the hole
for a wire.
Solder it.
tm
---
news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news_at_netfront.net ---
aemeijers
Guest
Tue Aug 17, 2010 1:21 am
john hamilton wrote:
Quote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).
http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.
Nobody else said it, so I will- if your attempted repairs end up
trashing the battery box, a 2xAA holder in pretty common, and should not
be hard to find at Radio Shack (or whatever the UK equiv is), or online,
like at MPJA.com. For a toy with a half-life of hours, I have even
taped the wires to the end of the battery, and jammed/taped them back
into the box. (may have to extend the wires to do that.)
--
aem sends...
J Burns
Guest
Tue Aug 17, 2010 4:15 am
Ralph Mowery wrote:
Quote:
"Bob Eager" <rde42_at_spamcop.net> wrote in message
news:8ctifbFl54U2_at_mid.individual.net...
On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, john hamilton wrote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
easily melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
anything to stick to the tabs.
To add to the other suggestions about soldering: if you can get/borrow a
temperature controlled iron, run it at a lower temperature and use 63/37
solder.
That is usually the wrong way to do the job he wants to do. Use a very hot
iron, hit the joint fast with a lot of heat and then get out quick. The
tabs will get hot very quick and melt the solder. If he applies a low heat,
the plastic will get a lot of heat on it before the tab gets hot enough to
melt the solder.
Overheated tips give me a hassle with oxidation. I think the most
important factor is thermal conductivity to the joint. The flow can be
slow with a small pencil-pointed iron. A bigger tip with a flat side
can work much faster.
I'd clean the iron, tab, and wire, make a good mechanical connection,
apply rosin flux to the connection and the iron, and turn on the iron.
When the flux smoked, I'd begin testing the iron by touching solder to
it. When it melted solder quickly, I'd touch the iron to the
connection. Almost instantly, the flat side of the tip and the drop of
molten solder should conduct enough heat to the joint for it to draw
solder from the iron. I'd have the iron out of there before the plastic
could soften.
Dadburnit, the last battery holders I bought had the tabs riveted to the
battery contacts. They develop resistance from invisible corrosion
around the rivets. I have to keep spraying with contact cleaner. I
also have jumper cables that develop resistance from unseen corrosion
where the wires are crimped.
Smitty Two
Guest
Tue Aug 17, 2010 4:42 am
In article <i4btbg$m7c$1_at_news.eternal-september.org>,
"john hamilton" <bluestar95_at_mail.invalid> wrote:
Quote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).
http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.
Go buy a battery holder that has leads already attached. Twist those
leads to the leads coming from the toy.
Smitty Two, who owns a soldering company, has taught 50 people to
solder, has soldered hundreds of thousands of components by hand, and
knows that while soldering is easy, it can't be taught in two minutes
with a paragraph.
tm
Guest
Tue Aug 17, 2010 5:17 am
"Smitty Two" <prestwhich_at_earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:prestwhich-E25BE0.20421816082010_at_news.eternal-september.org...
Quote:
In article <i4btbg$m7c$1_at_news.eternal-september.org>,
"john hamilton" <bluestar95_at_mail.invalid> wrote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).
http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in
the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.
Go buy a battery holder that has leads already attached. Twist those
leads to the leads coming from the toy.
Smitty Two, who owns a soldering company, has taught 50 people to
solder, has soldered hundreds of thousands of components by hand, and
knows that while soldering is easy, it can't be taught in two minutes
with a paragraph.
No, not for mil spec results. But this is just a friggin toy. Solder it.
---
news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news_at_netfront.net ---
Smitty Two
Guest
Tue Aug 17, 2010 5:31 am
In article <i4d2fc$1c2h$1_at_adenine.netfront.net>,
"tm" <the_obamunist_at_whitehouse.gov> wrote:
Quote:
No, not for mil spec results. But this is just a friggin toy. Solder it.
The OP already said he solders poorly. For $1.50 or so he can buy a damn
battery holder with wires attached. He can do it before or after he
melts the one he has trying to solder it.
Jeff Liebermann
Guest
Tue Aug 17, 2010 6:15 am
On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, "john hamilton"
<bluestar95_at_mail.invalid> wrote:
Sigh. No imagination left on Usenet. OK, no soldering or heat
allowed. Some ideas.
Quote:
http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
Plan A: Looks like the rivets used to mount the contacts have a
through hole in them. Shove a 2-56 flat head bolt through the hole
from the inside. Put two washers, lockwasher, and a nut on the
outside. Wrap the wire around the bolt between the washers and
tighten the nut. If you can't find a bolt that fits, you might be
able to find a suitable copper rivet. Beat on it with a hammer to
assemble.
Plan B: Thread the rivet hole and insert a lockwasher and 2 washer
sandwitch held in place with a small bolt. Getting the bolt length
correct will be the major challenge.
Plan C: Strip off about 3cm of wire from the leads. Bend into a
spiral. Shove the spiral between the battery contacts and the
matching rivet and spring. Be sure you have a good electrical
connection. Wrap the whole mess in giant shrink tube, electrical
tape, duct tape, or just bury it in hot melt glue. Whatever it takes
to keep the wires from moving.
Plan D: Buy a dual AAA cordless phone battery pack. They usually
have two leads and a connector. Chop off the connector, strip the
leads, and twist the matching wires together. Wrap with electrical
tape or use shrink tube.
Plan E: Brute force cold welding. If the wires are copper, you can
just run them through the holes in the terminals and pound everything
flat with a small hammer and anvil. The copper will cold flow and
eventually create a solid connection. You may need to add additional
soft copper wire filler to get a proper connection. See any jewelry
maker or blacksmith for details.
Plan F: Forget the holder and just spot weld wires directly to the
battery. This is far more fun than learning to solder as it throws
spark and hot slag all over the place.
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yabesdeGKJo>
Since you probably don't have a cazapitive discharge spot welder, drag
it down to the local Batteries Plus store and have them do it.
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl_at_cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060
http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
rp
Guest
Tue Aug 17, 2010 8:34 am
On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 14:32:05 -0700 (PDT), rangerssuck wrote:
Quote:
Take it to the local TV repair guy, and ask him to teach you how to do
it, so you'll be prepared for next time.
My dad taught me to solder back in the early sixties.
He got a block of wood and hammered a load of those little nails that
you use to hold hardboard in and told me to join all of them together
with wire. We had a stick of solder about an eighth of an inch thick
and a tub of flux and the first one I did was a mess but after about 20
or so they were neat.
With those plastic battery boxes I've found you have to have a nice big
bit in a hot iron and be quick, more than about a second and the
plastic melts. I put the wire through the hole and wrap it around
itself to make a mechanically good joint or if it's solid core bend it
through the hole and nip it up with pliers. Put the tip on the tag and
the wire and poke solder at the join between the two. You can't do them
with a little Antex, it transfers heat so slowly that the plastic melts
before the solder. It's the Weller W50-D for this sort of connection
:-)
--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail rpont (at) gmail (dot) com
Kellerman
Guest
Tue Aug 17, 2010 10:42 am
On 16/08/2010 18:43, john hamilton wrote:
Quote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).
http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.
The battery contact is likely to be nickel plated, consequently you will
need solder with ACTIVATED FLUX. Tin-lead stuff with activated flux,
greater than about 0.5% halides (if you can buy it now) will produce a
better result in a home DIY environment. If the description says
"non-corrosive flux" then that's the wrong type. You need the slightly
corrosive action of the halides to remove the oxide from from the nickel
so that the solder will alloy with the nickel.
Practice if first on a similar material.
Dave
--
Blow my nose to email me
jeff_wisnia
Guest
Tue Aug 17, 2010 4:15 pm
john hamilton wrote:
Quote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).
http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.
Hey fellas, don't you think we've about saucered and blowed this thread
by now? <G>
Jeff (Who's been soldering stuff for about 62 years now.)
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.
geoff
Guest
Tue Aug 17, 2010 9:40 pm
In message <i4cus3$7c2$1_at_news.eternal-september.org>, J Burns
<burns4_at_nowhere.com> writes
Quote:
Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Bob Eager" <rde42_at_spamcop.net> wrote in message
news:8ctifbFl54U2_at_mid.individual.net...
On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, john hamilton wrote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
easily melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
anything to stick to the tabs.
To add to the other suggestions about soldering: if you can get/borrow a
temperature controlled iron, run it at a lower temperature and use 63/37
solder.
That is usually the wrong way to do the job he wants to do. Use a
very hot iron, hit the joint fast with a lot of heat and then get
out quick. The tabs will get hot very quick and melt the solder. If
he applies a low heat, the plastic will get a lot of heat on it
before the tab gets hot enough to melt the solder.
Overheated tips give me a hassle with oxidation.
Let me quote from the instructions of the hot air / soldering station I
just purchased
"Temperature of the soldering tip
High temperature will decrease the function of the soldering tip. So the
temperature should be set to the lowest. This soldering tip has good
quality for recovery and can solder at low temperature. This can protect
the component sensitive with temperature
Cleaning
The tip should be cleaned with sponge periodically. After soldering the
oxidised and carbonated superabundant soldering material will damage the
tip. Deviation of soldering and deduction of function of the soldering
tip will occur. The soldering tip must be dismantled for cleaning every
week so the soldering tip can keep the function
After welding,clean the superabundant soldering material"
so now you know ...
--
geoff
geoff
Guest
Tue Aug 17, 2010 9:47 pm
In message <OMCdnaRJ3JTuxPfRnZ2dnUVZ8n-dnZ2d_at_brightview.co.uk>,
Kellerman <"kellerman <snot>"@?.?.invalid> writes
Quote:
On 16/08/2010 18:43, john hamilton wrote:
I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
upwards giving some clearence).
http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
gratefull. Thanks.
The battery contact is likely to be nickel plated, consequently you
will need solder with ACTIVATED FLUX.
No - just file or otherwise (emery cloth) remove the plating back down
to the base copper underneath just before soldering
Simples
FFS - it's a cheap plastic moulding with tags on it
you lot are turning this into a major project
--
geoff
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