Best solder free electrical connection

Mon Aug 16, 2010 10:34 pm   

"Bob Eager" <rde42_at_spamcop.net> wrote in message
news:8ctifbFl54U2_at_mid.individual.net...

That is usually the wrong way to do the job he wants to do. Use a very hot
iron, hit the joint fast with a lot of heat and then get out quick. The
tabs will get hot very quick and melt the solder. If he applies a low heat,
the plastic will get a lot of heat on it before the tab gets hot enough to
melt the solder.
The 63/73 is the way to go, but 60/40 is just fine. Also do not move the
wires while the solder is cooling. This is one big way to mess up the
joint.

Mon Aug 16, 2010 10:38 pm   

"rangerssuck" <rangerssuck_at_gmail.com> wrote in message
news:f58e1c93-6fef-4cf0-941f-826597f8d898_at_5g2000yqz.googlegroups.com...
..

That sounds like a good idea, but I bet a very few of them know how to
solder or even have a soldering tool. That comes from be being a ham for
over 35 years and knowing the ones in the local area.
Many that know how will usually be willing to help.

Mon Aug 16, 2010 10:56 pm   

In article <Q7OdnZbA56RZMvTRnZ2dnUVZ_uydnZ2d_at_earthlink.com>, Ralph
Mowery <rmowery28146_at_earthlink.net> scribeth thus

Seems its a dying craft making any of your own gear now.

Anything on You tube on soldering at all?..
--
Tony Sayer

Mon Aug 16, 2010 11:26 pm   

On 08/16/2010 05:56 PM, tony sayer wrote:

meh? I still solder quite regularly, because if nothing else, I'm far
more likely to have solder and heat shrink handy than I am butt splices
and a crimping tool.

Also, the tool makes a huge difference. I (heart) my ancient Weller
soldering station, the constant-temp tips make life so much better.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

Mon Aug 16, 2010 11:27 pm   

On 16 Aug, 20:39, Bob Eager <rd...@spamcop.net> wrote:

I notice that nobody has raised the point for the OP that his problem
of previous soldering is that he is possibly using too powerful a
soldering iron - one with too big a bit. This is the most likely
cause of his problem with melting the support for the tag he is
soldering to. Haven't we all done it - and even with a temperature
controlled one and 50 years of experience I softened the mount for the
centre pin of a connector yesterday, and had to go back and apply heat
to straighten it.

John - I've had a quick scan through Ebay and suggest that
#370414838261 is a good buy (ie I've got one!) for a controlled iron
if you feel that the advise to try,try,try again is worth following.

Rob

Mon Aug 16, 2010 11:33 pm   

On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 17:34:22 -0400, "Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146_at_earthlink.net> wrote:


some of that cheap gear is terribly difficult to tin, without a
good scratching up and cleaning first. Emery paper, sand paper,
even a sharp instrument. And wash the grease off too, metho or
IPA should be safe for the plastic?

The trick is to go in quick, if it doesn't work straight away (like
less than a second), remove the heat, let the thing cool right down,
and try again later.

Problems happen when you keep the heat on to no effect, melting the
surrounds.

Be aware of the need for the fresh heat bridge, created by applying
iron and solder together, so the flux is working. It's perfectly
fine to have several attempts, provided you let the parts cool right
down between the attempts.

And yes, practice makes perfect, so try some other soldering to get
a feel for how the solder, flux and iron behave together. :)

Try soldering (stripped) insulated wire together until you can make
clean solder joints without burning the insulation, basic thermal
feel and control. Don't be afraid to waste solder, learn to coax
excess solder off a joint by application of the iron and new solder.

Grant.

Mon Aug 16, 2010 11:44 pm   

On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:26:23 -0400, Nate Nagel <njnagel_at_roosters.net> wrote:


I used to use the Weller, but disliked that little jump when the
magnet pulled in (or let go). Also iron based leads (like on
signal diodes) could be troublesome The new Hakko I have now
is great.

Grant.

Mon Aug 16, 2010 11:48 pm   

robgraham wrote:


Try lead based solder 60/40 has a lower melting point

Mon Aug 16, 2010 11:53 pm   

On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 17:34:22 -0400, Ralph Mowery wrote:


Point taken, but I didn't mean *that* much lower. It just reduces the
complete melting point by a few tens of degrees; clearly it has to be hot
enough to do the joint quickly.



--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org

*lightning protection* - a w_tom conductor

Mon Aug 16, 2010 11:56 pm   

"Nate Nagel" <njnagel_at_roosters.net> wrote in message
news:i4cdud0bmc_at_news2.newsguy.com...

This is an aside to the discussion on soldering, but it might be of some
general interest. A relative of mine is the manager of a fairly large
electronics manufacturing plant here in the US. Yup, they make electronic
devices here in the USA and have been kicking Pacific Rim, China and Mexican
exports in the rump for years. The devices are major and fairly custom made
for each customer. The result is that our intelligent and educated shop
people are flexible in what they can do, where Pacific Rim only exceed where
it's highly routine.

That aside, he took me on a tour of the plant one day while it was in
operation. The each circuit board, once components are in place, is
rigorously tested by computerized probes that can identify and isolate
specific components that are either bad or didn't get soldered in properly.
The boards are flagged and sent to the "repair" benches. There, about a
dozen people with soldering irons desolder the component and replace it by
hand. The boards then go back to be tested and certified for installation
into the "big iron." Each station had at least 5-6 soldering irons of
various wattages and tips PLUS laminar flow air hoods to extract any fumes.
The lighting was very good, also, as you'd suspect.

He told me that the dozen or so people who man the repair stations and
soldering irons are some of the most highly paid of the hourly workers,
since it takes a combination of manual dexterity, attention to detail and
patience to get the new components in place properly.

Nonny

Tue Aug 17, 2010 12:09 am   

"RES" <nothingpublic_at_hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:PbednRs86MmTX_TRnZ2dnUVZ5qSdnZ2d_at_giganews.com...

I can believe that. I have built some simple electronic devices using 5 or
6 of the old style ICs that had 14 to 40 pins on them and put together some
kits that had about 30 ICs on them.

I have not tried any of the newer surface mounted devices. Doubt that I
ever will due to the size of them. Can't see the things and don't have the
tools to do it.

Tue Aug 17, 2010 12:20 am   

On Aug 16, 12:43 pm, "john hamilton" <bluesta...@mail.invalid> wrote:

Is the OP in the USA or the UK or where?????

Tue Aug 17, 2010 12:32 am   

On Aug 16, 1:43 pm, "john hamilton" <bluesta...@mail.invalid> wrote:

Take it to the local TV repair guy, and ask him to teach you how to do
it, so you'll be prepared for next time.
Alternatively, Assuming you're in the US, go towww.arrl.org (American
Radio Relay League) and find an amateur radio guy in your area (just
search by state, and with a little poking around, you'll find someone
nearby). Virtually ALL of these people know how to solder, and will
likely be extremely willing to help you learn how.

Tue Aug 17, 2010 12:37 am   

On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 19:09:49 -0400, Ralph Mowery wrote:


I've been soldering (on and off) for well over 40 years, and find it
strangely satisfying! Last project was one of these:

http://www.sparetimegizmos.com/Hardware/SBC6120-2.htm

and these:

http://www.sparetimegizmos.com/Hardware/SBC6120_Front_Panel.htm

Great fun to build and to program!


I keep meaning to have a go, since I seem to have mastered single-eye
soldering now.



--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org

*lightning protection* - a w_tom conductor

Tue Aug 17, 2010 12:45 am   

On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, "john hamilton"
<bluestar95_at_mail.invalid> wrote:


into the (non) connection.