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Jeff Liebermann
Guest
Guest
Fri Jan 13, 2012 8:24 pm
On Fri, 13 Jan 2012 09:41:16 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer_at_comcast.net> wrote:
Quote:
"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl_at_cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:1mo0h79j09h3dt40kn77to2i5e7lh9e063_at_4ax.com...
One method I like is to use a mason's chisel. I place it along
the glue line and LIGHTLY tap the chisel with a hammer.
What about Dremel cut-off disks?
(You're supposed to respond "Well, what about them?".)
news:1mo0h79j09h3dt40kn77to2i5e7lh9e063_at_4ax.com...
One method I like is to use a mason's chisel. I place it along
the glue line and LIGHTLY tap the chisel with a hammer.
What about Dremel cut-off disks?
(You're supposed to respond "Well, what about them?".)
I've used those. A few problems. The big one for me is that the disk
often turns into a mini fragmentation bomb, spraying disk parts
everywhere. Just twist the tool even slightly, and it will break the
disk. I wear safety glasses *AND* a face shield when I use a hand
grinder or Dremel tool.
Another problem is a tendency to cut too deep, resulting in component
damage. The hack saw has the same problem, but I can usually feel
when I've broken through. There's also a problem of going to slowly
and melting the plastic case instead of cutting it. Lastly, I don't
like cleaning up the mess from the Dremel. It creates a fine abrasive
dust over a wide area, while the hack saw just creates comparatively
larger plastic dust over a smaller area.
One trick I've used is with an ultrasonic scaler.
<http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=ultrasonic+scaler>
These are normally used to chip off plaque from teeth, but work
equally well cracking the glue line on wall warts. I use a tip shaped
like a small spatula. The down side is that the ultrasonics are fully
capable of breaking the wire bonds inside some chips and xsistors.
I've only had one such failure, but it pays to be careful with this
method.
I just watched some really awful YouTube videos on power supply and
charger repair. Everything from beat on it with a hammer to using a
hot knife. You're on your own if you want to experiment.
On the other foot, there are some wall warts which just will not
cooperate. One memorable failure was after pounding on the case
repeatedly, and resorting to the hack saw, it still would not come
apart. In frustration, I cracked the plastic case, only to find that
it had two screws hidden under the label. I just hate it when that
happens.
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl_at_cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Jim Yanik
Guest
Guest
Sat Jan 14, 2012 5:52 am
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl_at_cruzio.com> wrote in
news:ge01h7p4d7gka8qprjsa0pbt4jjjrjafv8_at_4ax.com:
Quote:
On Fri, 13 Jan 2012 09:41:16 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
grizzledgeezer_at_comcast.net> wrote:
"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl_at_cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:1mo0h79j09h3dt40kn77to2i5e7lh9e063_at_4ax.com...
One method I like is to use a mason's chisel. I place it along
the glue line and LIGHTLY tap the chisel with a hammer.
What about Dremel cut-off disks?
(You're supposed to respond "Well, what about them?".)
I've used those. A few problems. The big one for me is that the disk
often turns into a mini fragmentation bomb, spraying disk parts
everywhere.
grizzledgeezer_at_comcast.net> wrote:
"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl_at_cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:1mo0h79j09h3dt40kn77to2i5e7lh9e063_at_4ax.com...
One method I like is to use a mason's chisel. I place it along
the glue line and LIGHTLY tap the chisel with a hammer.
What about Dremel cut-off disks?
(You're supposed to respond "Well, what about them?".)
I've used those. A few problems. The big one for me is that the disk
often turns into a mini fragmentation bomb, spraying disk parts
everywhere.
use the fiberglass reinforced discs,or the heavy-duty discs.
You can also find small diameter sawblades for the Dremel,very thin kerf.
Quote:
Just twist the tool even slightly, and it will break the
disk. I wear safety glasses *AND* a face shield when I use a hand
grinder or Dremel tool.
Another problem is a tendency to cut too deep, resulting in component
damage. The hack saw has the same problem, but I can usually feel
when I've broken through. There's also a problem of going to slowly
and melting the plastic case instead of cutting it. Lastly, I don't
like cleaning up the mess from the Dremel. It creates a fine abrasive
dust over a wide area, while the hack saw just creates comparatively
larger plastic dust over a smaller area.
disk. I wear safety glasses *AND* a face shield when I use a hand
grinder or Dremel tool.
Another problem is a tendency to cut too deep, resulting in component
damage. The hack saw has the same problem, but I can usually feel
when I've broken through. There's also a problem of going to slowly
and melting the plastic case instead of cutting it. Lastly, I don't
like cleaning up the mess from the Dremel. It creates a fine abrasive
dust over a wide area, while the hack saw just creates comparatively
larger plastic dust over a smaller area.
I LOVE my Dremel. (OLD model 270,no built-in speed control)
I have a speed controller made from a lamp dimmer and junction box,with a
duplex outlet tha thte Dremel plugs into.It makes the Dremel much more
versatile.
maybe one of the new oscillating multifunction tools,HF was selling one for
$20,but cutter discs are extra. they cut slow.
Quote:
One trick I've used is with an ultrasonic scaler.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=ultrasonic+scaler
These are normally used to chip off plaque from teeth, but work
equally well cracking the glue line on wall warts. I use a tip shaped
like a small spatula. The down side is that the ultrasonics are fully
capable of breaking the wire bonds inside some chips and xsistors.
I've only had one such failure, but it pays to be careful with this
method.
I just watched some really awful YouTube videos on power supply and
charger repair. Everything from beat on it with a hammer to using a
hot knife. You're on your own if you want to experiment.
On the other foot, there are some wall warts which just will not
cooperate. One memorable failure was after pounding on the case
repeatedly, and resorting to the hack saw, it still would not come
apart. In frustration, I cracked the plastic case, only to find that
it had two screws hidden under the label. I just hate it when that
happens.
checking under labels for screws is the first thing I do,although I hate
messing up the labels.
Oh,and instead of a hacksaw,try a X-acto "razor" saw,they have blades with
very fine kerfs,fits into a large X-acto handle. Hobby stores should have
them,there's 3 different blades,with various teeth/inch.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com
Jeff Liebermann
Guest
Guest
Sat Jan 14, 2012 8:41 am
On Fri, 13 Jan 2012 22:52:05 -0600, Jim Yanik <jyanik_at_abuse.gov>
wrote:
Quote:
use the fiberglass reinforced discs,or the heavy-duty discs.
I'll look into those. Sounds interesting.
Quote:
You can also find small diameter sawblades for the Dremel,very thin kerf.
Bad idea. I tried those. If I just lightly hit the transformer or
shield inside a typical laptop power supply, the blade becomes
instantly dull. One mistake and it's time to buy a new saw blade. No
thanks.
Quote:
checking under labels for screws is the first thing I do,although I hate
messing up the labels.
messing up the labels.
That's why I usually don't check first.
Quote:
Oh,and instead of a hacksaw,try a X-acto "razor" saw,they have blades with
very fine kerfs,fits into a large X-acto handle. Hobby stores should have
them,there's 3 different blades,with various teeth/inch.
very fine kerfs,fits into a large X-acto handle. Hobby stores should have
them,there's 3 different blades,with various teeth/inch.
Hmmm... I haven't tried those. Looks promising.
<http://www.xacto.com/Product/X75300>
I did try a narrow coping saw. It worked but the blade was too easily
bent into an arc. A hack saw blade won't do that.
--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl_at_cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS
Michael A. Terrell
Guest
Guest
Sun Jan 15, 2012 7:05 am
Jeff Liebermann wrote:
Quote:
On Fri, 13 Jan 2012 07:00:34 -0600, "Mark Zacharias"
mark_zacharias_at_labolgcbs.net> wrote:
"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl_at_cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:r3qpg790pe67e6i68vnle0vasb7nbsr0e7_at_4ax.com...
On Tue, 10 Jan 2012 19:31:42 -0600, "Mark Zacharias"
mark_zacharias_at_labolgcbs.net> wrote:
Many of the newer ones are small switchers and die after 15 months or so.
Mark Z.
I just crack them open, replace the usual bulging electrolytic, and
live happily ever after.
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/repair/2Wire-power-supply.jpg
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/repair/2Wire-power-supplies.jpg
The biggest problem is opening the plastic case. Sometimes, it's easy
(using a bench vise). Other times, it's impossible.
Yeah - I know. Still a pain.
mz
I feel your pain. I feel more pain when I throw away something that
can be repaired. When I visit the local recycler, I'm often shocked
at all the easily repairable stuff that gets tossed.
One method I like is to use a mason's chisel. I place it along the
glue line and LIGHTLY tap the chisel with a hammer. The glue joint is
quite brittle. With luck, you'll hear it crack open. If that fails,
a hack saw will always work. However, that's a mess to re-glue, and I
have to cover the damage with some decorative trim tape.
Here is a tiny table saw that would give you a fixed depth & straight
cut:
<http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-mighty-mite-table-saw-93211.html>
--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.
Jeff Liebermann
Guest
Guest
Sun Jan 15, 2012 9:38 am
On Sun, 15 Jan 2012 01:05:26 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.terrell_at_earthlink.net> wrote:
Quote:
Here is a tiny table saw that would give you a fixed depth & straight
cut:
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-mighty-mite-table-saw-93211.html
cut:
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-mighty-mite-table-saw-93211.html
Cute. That might work. I have a 3.375" dia blade on my Makita 5090D
<http://media.toolking.com/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/c/i/circ_4.jpg>
which also has adjustable cut depth. Clamp the wall wart in a bench
vice, set the cut depth, and try to cut in a straight line. Looks
like the mini table saw has the advantage of a rip fence. Still,
cutting a straight line may be a problem with odd shaped wall warts.
Incidentally, when I cut with a hack saw, I try NOT to cut all the way
through the plastic. The joint usually consists of two overlapping
plastic tongues. It's only necessary to cut through the upper tongue
in order to break the joint. That also leaves a neat grove with which
to fill for reassembling the wall wart.
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wall_wart>
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl_at_cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Jeff Liebermann
Guest
Guest
Sun Jan 15, 2012 9:50 am
On Sun, 15 Jan 2012 00:38:12 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl_at_cruzio.com>
wrote:
(...)
This is about 5 days of wall wart and power cord collections at a
local recycling center.
<http://www.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/e-waste/slides/wall-warts.html>
What a waste.
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl_at_cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
whit3rd
Guest
Guest
Sun Jan 15, 2012 8:48 pm
On Monday, January 9, 2012 7:13:00 PM UTC-8, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
Quote:
On Mon, 09 Jan 2012 18:20:48 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com
wrote:
Those are wall warts that are not attached to specific pieces of
equipment. The cardboard boxes on the right are full of sorted and
tested wall warts. There are two more boxes ... another 4 large
boxes at home and a small box in the vehicle.
Time for a purge.
wrote:
Those are wall warts that are not attached to specific pieces of
equipment. The cardboard boxes on the right are full of sorted and
tested wall warts. There are two more boxes ... another 4 large
boxes at home and a small box in the vehicle.
Time for a purge.
NO! The first one you discard, is the next one you need!
.... nothing but an original unit will ever connect to some
devices (my old HP-34C calculator comes to mind).
Sorting by output voltage, though, would improve the utility
of the boxes. And you can paint those boxes in bright colors
so they do double duty as decoration...
gregz
Guest
Guest
Sun Jan 22, 2012 5:25 am
spamtrap1888 <spamtrap1888_at_gmail.com> wrote:
Quote:
On Jan 9, 6:20 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
http://www.newyorker.com/humor/issuecartoons/2012/01/16/cartoons_2012...
That's roughly what seems to be taking over the space under one of my
workbenches.
On a slight tangent: Does anyone make a power strip with outlets
spaced to hold multiple wallwarts?
http://www.newyorker.com/humor/issuecartoons/2012/01/16/cartoons_2012...
That's roughly what seems to be taking over the space under one of my
workbenches.
On a slight tangent: Does anyone make a power strip with outlets
spaced to hold multiple wallwarts?
I have some older Curtis strips with top and two sides with outlets, surge
and filtering. The only thing that remotely resembles them is these...
http://gizmodo.com/once-upon-a-time/
Greg
Michael A. Terrell
Guest
Guest
Thu Jan 26, 2012 7:31 pm
Jeff Liebermann wrote:
Quote:
On Sun, 15 Jan 2012 00:38:12 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl_at_cruzio.com
wrote:
(...)
This is about 5 days of wall wart and power cord collections at a
local recycling center.
http://www.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/e-waste/slides/wall-warts.html
What a waste.
years ago, i would have taken a mess like that to a hamfest and sold
all of it. I currently have about 500 warts & external power supplies,
sorted by voltage. I picked up several hundred at one hamfest, from a
silent key's widow. I had to come home and get my trailer, to haul off
everything I picked up, that day. I used to trash pick after the Dayton
hamfest every year and could fill my long wheelbase van with no
problem. I'd take damaged or dead equipment that either looked
repairable, or was worth salvaging. Once, it was close to a ton of
power transformers, for the copper. :)
--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.
Jeff Liebermann
Guest
Guest
Thu Jan 26, 2012 8:24 pm
On Thu, 26 Jan 2012 13:31:20 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.terrell_at_earthlink.net> wrote:
Quote:
Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 15 Jan 2012 00:38:12 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl_at_cruzio.com
wrote:
(...)
This is about 5 days of wall wart and power cord collections at a
local recycling center.
http://www.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/e-waste/slides/wall-warts.html
What a waste.
years ago, i would have taken a mess like that to a hamfest and sold
all of it. I currently have about 500 warts & external power supplies,
sorted by voltage. I picked up several hundred at one hamfest, from a
silent key's widow. I had to come home and get my trailer, to haul off
everything I picked up, that day. I used to trash pick after the Dayton
hamfest every year and could fill my long wheelbase van with no
problem. I'd take damaged or dead equipment that either looked
repairable, or was worth salvaging. Once, it was close to a ton of
power transformers, for the copper.
I spent my first 50 years collecting all that junk. I plan to spend
the next 50 years getting rid of it.
Here's my pile in the office:
<http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/wall-warts.jpg>
The boxes to the right are full of more wall warts. There are also
two more big boxes in the closet, several boxes of just power cords,
and about 5 more boxes of wall warts at home. Time for a purge.
The local recycler clips off the power cords from the wall warts. The
transformer and copper windings are classified at "mixed metal waste"
for which they get about $175/ton (2000 lbs). The copper cords yield
about $65/lb.
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl_at_cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
elektroda.net NewsGroups Forum Index - Repair Electronics - AC Adapter Plague
