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Ken S. Tucker
Guest
Thu Jan 26, 2012 12:14 pm
I (we) use neat little dual burner hot plates on kitchen counter.
Last 2 units we purchased (from a GEnerally reputable
company), have dinky temperature contol settings, that are
now defunct. They are difficult to repair.
So now I have 4 burners and no reliable control.
1) What I need is a 20A dimmer (like a light dimmer), I'll use to
set my temperature, advise here would be ok.
I'm easy with building stuff like that myself, but maybe something
is available 'off the shelf'.
2) Later, if necessary I'll put in a feed back from a thermistor,
to set the temperature by duty cycling.
I should do #1 for the learning curve and see how it works 1st.
Regards
Ken
BubbleSorter
Guest
Thu Jan 26, 2012 12:39 pm
On Thu, 26 Jan 2012 02:14:23 -0800 (PST), "Ken S. Tucker"
<dynamics_at_vianet.on.ca> wrote:
Quote:
I (we) use neat little dual burner hot plates on kitchen counter.
Last 2 units we purchased (from a GEnerally reputable
company), have dinky temperature contol settings, that are
now defunct. They are difficult to repair.
So now I have 4 burners and no reliable control.
1) What I need is a 20A dimmer (like a light dimmer), I'll use to
set my temperature, advise here would be ok.
I'm easy with building stuff like that myself, but maybe something
is available 'off the shelf'.
2) Later, if necessary I'll put in a feed back from a thermistor,
to set the temperature by duty cycling.
I should do #1 for the learning curve and see how it works 1st.
Regards
Ken
No. Those hot plates are meant for the duty cycle powering (and
function) set-up.
They are poor efficiency wise, compared to gas (as it relates to
getting the heat into your pot), so as you go down in heater coil temp,
your transfer efficiency goes down even faster. I have always hated
electric 'burners', but they make great learning tools to show what a
little air does between your heat sink and your heat source.
Folks learn real quick when the IGBT is NOT properly mated to the heat
sink on a design that actually does drive the thing. I had to RE-teach
an assembler just how to be sure that he would achieve a co-planar mating
plane across 24 large, hand soldered devices meant to all properly mate
to a monolithic heat sink extrusion. He was unable to put the logic
together that he had to mate them to the heat sink BEFORE he soldered
them into place. After 2 units got smoked, the chief engineer told him to
do it the way I showed him it had to be done.
I do so hate stubborn people, and when they are stupid, the problem is
tenfold worse. I think they are tests God put before me to see how I
handle them. Me and that little dork never did get along, because he was
at the company before me, but couldn't handle the fact that I advanced
through the company ahead of him. Typical electronics industry crap at
that end. The folks at the other end are to blame though, because they
won't shitcan poor 'help' and hire experienced professionals.
John Fields
Guest
Thu Jan 26, 2012 3:41 pm
On Thu, 26 Jan 2012 02:14:23 -0800 (PST), "Ken S. Tucker"
<dynamics_at_vianet.on.ca> wrote:
Quote:
I (we) use neat little dual burner hot plates on kitchen counter.
Last 2 units we purchased (from a GEnerally reputable
company), have dinky temperature contol settings, that are
now defunct. They are difficult to repair.
So now I have 4 burners and no reliable control.
1) What I need is a 20A dimmer (like a light dimmer), I'll use to
set my temperature, advise here would be ok.
I'm easy with building stuff like that myself, but maybe something
is available 'off the shelf'.
2) Later, if necessary I'll put in a feed back from a thermistor,
to set the temperature by duty cycling.
I should do #1 for the learning curve and see how it works 1st.
Regards
Ken
---
Take a look at figure 12 of:
http://www.littelfuse.com/data/en/Application_Notes/AN1003.pdf
You can find a candidate TRIAC/SCR by downloading the entire
Littelfuse Teccor catalog/ data book at:
http://www.littelfuse.com/data/en/Product_Catalogs/ThyristorCatalog1.pdf
8 Megabytes...
--
JF
David Eather
Guest
Thu Jan 26, 2012 6:34 pm
On Thu, 26 Jan 2012 20:14:23 +1000, Ken S. Tucker <dynamics_at_vianet.on.ca>
wrote:
Quote:
I (we) use neat little dual burner hot plates on kitchen counter.
Last 2 units we purchased (from a GEnerally reputable
company), have dinky temperature contol settings, that are
now defunct. They are difficult to repair.
So now I have 4 burners and no reliable control.
1) What I need is a 20A dimmer (like a light dimmer), I'll use to
set my temperature, advise here would be ok.
I'm easy with building stuff like that myself, but maybe something
is available 'off the shelf'.
2) Later, if necessary I'll put in a feed back from a thermistor,
to set the temperature by duty cycling.
I should do #1 for the learning curve and see how it works 1st.
Regards
Ken
A SSR like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solid-state-relay-SSR-40A-out-3-32V-input-DC-90-480V-AC-/110805416030?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19cc84785e
with a heatsink can be driven by a 555 to do what you want.
Don Lancaster
Guest
Thu Jan 26, 2012 8:39 pm
On 1/26/2012 10:34 AM, David Eather wrote:
Quote:
On Thu, 26 Jan 2012 20:14:23 +1000, Ken S. Tucker
dynamics_at_vianet.on.ca> wrote:
I (we) use neat little dual burner hot plates on kitchen counter.
Last 2 units we purchased (from a GEnerally reputable
company), have dinky temperature contol settings, that are
now defunct. They are difficult to repair.
So now I have 4 burners and no reliable control.
1) What I need is a 20A dimmer (like a light dimmer), I'll use to
set my temperature, advise here would be ok.
I'm easy with building stuff like that myself, but maybe something
is available 'off the shelf'.
2) Later, if necessary I'll put in a feed back from a thermistor,
to set the temperature by duty cycling.
I should do #1 for the learning curve and see how it works 1st.
Regards
Ken
A SSR like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solid-state-relay-SSR-40A-out-3-32V-input-DC-90-480V-AC-/110805416030?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19cc84785e
with a heatsink can be driven by a 555 to do what you want.
We have a number of quad DMX compatible dimmers in stock at
http://www.ebay.com/sch/abeja/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=25
--
Many thanks,
Don Lancaster voice phone: (928)428-4073
Synergetics 3860 West First Street Box 809 Thatcher, AZ 85552
rss:
http://www.tinaja.com/whtnu.xml email: don_at_tinaja.com
Please visit my GURU's LAIR web site at
http://www.tinaja.com
Fred Bloggs
Guest
Thu Jan 26, 2012 10:36 pm
On Jan 26, 5:14 am, "Ken S. Tucker" <dynam...@vianet.on.ca> wrote:
Quote:
I (we) use neat little dual burner hot plates on kitchen counter.
Last 2 units we purchased (from a GEnerally reputable
company), have dinky temperature contol settings, that are
now defunct. They are difficult to repair.
So now I have 4 burners and no reliable control.
1) What I need is a 20A dimmer (like a light dimmer), I'll use to
set my temperature, advise here would be ok.
I'm easy with building stuff like that myself, but maybe something
is available 'off the shelf'.
2) Later, if necessary I'll put in a feed back from a thermistor,
to set the temperature by duty cycling.
I should do #1 for the learning curve and see how it works 1st.
Regards
Ken
You're not going to make anything for less than a whole new unit
http://www.walmart.com/ip/GE-Dual-Burner-Hot-Plate/12442588
Oppie
Guest
Thu Jan 26, 2012 11:24 pm
"Ken S. Tucker" <dynamics_at_vianet.on.ca> wrote in message
news:4b029573-b95c-4d46-8e92-01d662a7e823_at_c9g2000pbh.googlegroups.com...
Quote:
I (we) use neat little dual burner hot plates on kitchen counter.
Last 2 units we purchased (from a GEnerally reputable
company), have dinky temperature contol settings, that are
now defunct. They are difficult to repair.
So now I have 4 burners and no reliable control.
1) What I need is a 20A dimmer (like a light dimmer), I'll use to
set my temperature, advise here would be ok.
I'm easy with building stuff like that myself, but maybe something
is available 'off the shelf'.
2) Later, if necessary I'll put in a feed back from a thermistor,
to set the temperature by duty cycling.
I should do #1 for the learning curve and see how it works 1st.
Regards
Ken
Because of the long time constant of the burners, no need for phase control.
Check out "integral cycle controls". You won't get EMI with these either.
Output switch is on for N out of X cycles.
Ken S. Tucker
Guest
Fri Jan 27, 2012 12:38 am
On Jan 26, 3:39 am, BubbleSorter <BubbleSor...@URallinyerplace.org>
wrote:
Quote:
On Thu, 26 Jan 2012 02:14:23 -0800 (PST), "Ken S. Tucker"
dynam...@vianet.on.ca> wrote:
I (we) use neat little dual burner hot plates on kitchen counter.
Last 2 units we purchased (from a GEnerally reputable
company), have dinky temperature contol settings, that are
now defunct. They are difficult to repair.
So now I have 4 burners and no reliable control.
1) What I need is a 20A dimmer (like a light dimmer), I'll use to
set my temperature, advise here would be ok.
I'm easy with building stuff like that myself, but maybe something
is available 'off the shelf'.
2) Later, if necessary I'll put in a feed back from a thermistor,
to set the temperature by duty cycling.
I should do #1 for the learning curve and see how it works 1st.
Regards
Ken
No. Those hot plates are meant for the duty cycle powering (and
function) set-up.
In calculations, I treat them as resistors, but I'll bear in mind
your
advice .
Quote:
They are poor efficiency wise, compared to gas (as it relates to
getting the heat into your pot), so as you go down in heater coil temp,
your transfer efficiency goes down even faster. I have always hated
electric 'burners', but they make great learning tools to show what a
little air does between your heat sink and your heat source.
Folks learn real quick when the IGBT is NOT properly mated to the heat
sink on a design that actually does drive the thing. I had to RE-teach
an assembler just how to be sure that he would achieve a co-planar mating
plane across 24 large, hand soldered devices meant to all properly mate
to a monolithic heat sink extrusion. He was unable to put the logic
together that he had to mate them to the heat sink BEFORE he soldered
them into place. After 2 units got smoked, the chief engineer told him to
do it the way I showed him it had to be done.
I do so hate stubborn people, and when they are stupid, the problem is
tenfold worse. I think they are tests God put before me to see how I
handle them. Me and that little dork never did get along, because he was
at the company before me, but couldn't handle the fact that I advanced
through the company ahead of him. Typical electronics industry crap at
that end. The folks at the other end are to blame though, because they
won't shitcan poor 'help' and hire experienced professionals.
My colleages know I put the company and thus their interests ahead of
mine, so I don't really have problems.
Ken
Ken S. Tucker
Guest
Fri Jan 27, 2012 12:43 am
On Jan 26, 6:41 am, John Fields <jfie...@austininstruments.com> wrote:
Quote:
On Thu, 26 Jan 2012 02:14:23 -0800 (PST), "Ken S. Tucker"
dynam...@vianet.on.ca> wrote:
I (we) use neat little dual burner hot plates on kitchen counter.
Last 2 units we purchased (from a GEnerally reputable
company), have dinky temperature contol settings, that are
now defunct. They are difficult to repair.
So now I have 4 burners and no reliable control.
1) What I need is a 20A dimmer (like a light dimmer), I'll use to
set my temperature, advise here would be ok.
I'm easy with building stuff like that myself, but maybe something
is available 'off the shelf'.
2) Later, if necessary I'll put in a feed back from a thermistor,
to set the temperature by duty cycling.
I should do #1 for the learning curve and see how it works 1st.
Regards
Ken
---
Take a look at figure 12 of:
http://www.littelfuse.com/data/en/Application_Notes/AN1003.pdf
Looks good....
Thanks John, what do ya thin about SCR as this one has,
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dimmer#Thyristor_dimmer
Quote:
I live in canuckistan, still on dial-up.
Ken
Ken S. Tucker
Guest
Fri Jan 27, 2012 12:47 am
On Jan 26, 9:34 am, "David Eather" <eat...@tpg.com.au> wrote:
Quote:
On Thu, 26 Jan 2012 20:14:23 +1000, Ken S. Tucker <dynam...@vianet.on.ca
wrote:
I (we) use neat little dual burner hot plates on kitchen counter.
Last 2 units we purchased (from a GEnerally reputable
company), have dinky temperature contol settings, that are
now defunct. They are difficult to repair.
So now I have 4 burners and no reliable control.
1) What I need is a 20A dimmer (like a light dimmer), I'll use to
set my temperature, advise here would be ok.
I'm easy with building stuff like that myself, but maybe something
is available 'off the shelf'.
2) Later, if necessary I'll put in a feed back from a thermistor,
to set the temperature by duty cycling.
I should do #1 for the learning curve and see how it works 1st.
Regards
Ken
A SSR like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solid-state-relay-SSR-40A-out-3-32V-input-DC-...
with a heatsink can be driven by a 555 to do what you want.
Pretty ain't she, the 555 would need a separate PS,
something I'm trying to avoid.
Ken
Ken S. Tucker
Guest
Fri Jan 27, 2012 12:48 am
On Jan 26, 11:39 am, Don Lancaster <d...@tinaja.com> wrote:
Quote:
On 1/26/2012 10:34 AM, David Eather wrote:
On Thu, 26 Jan 2012 20:14:23 +1000, Ken S. Tucker
dynam...@vianet.on.ca> wrote:
I (we) use neat little dual burner hot plates on kitchen counter.
Last 2 units we purchased (from a GEnerally reputable
company), have dinky temperature contol settings, that are
now defunct. They are difficult to repair.
So now I have 4 burners and no reliable control.
1) What I need is a 20A dimmer (like a light dimmer), I'll use to
set my temperature, advise here would be ok.
I'm easy with building stuff like that myself, but maybe something
is available 'off the shelf'.
2) Later, if necessary I'll put in a feed back from a thermistor,
to set the temperature by duty cycling.
I should do #1 for the learning curve and see how it works 1st.
Regards
Ken
A SSR like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solid-state-relay-SSR-40A-out-3-32V-input-DC-...
with a heatsink can be driven by a 555 to do what you want.
We have a number of quad DMX compatible dimmers in stock
athttp://www.ebay.com/sch/abeja/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=25
Sorry, what's acronym DMX?
Quote:
--
Many thanks,
Don Lancaster voice phone: (928)428-4073
Synergetics 3860 West First Street Box 809 Thatcher, AZ 85552
rss:http://www.tinaja.com/whtnu.xml email: d...@tinaja.com
Please visit my GURU's LAIR web site
athttp://www.tinaja.com
Ken S. Tucker
Guest
Fri Jan 27, 2012 12:51 am
On Jan 26, 12:36 pm, Fred Bloggs <bloggs.fredbloggs.f...@gmail.com>
wrote:
Quote:
On Jan 26, 5:14 am, "Ken S. Tucker" <dynam...@vianet.on.ca> wrote:
I (we) use neat little dual burner hot plates on kitchen counter.
Last 2 units we purchased (from a GEnerally reputable
company), have dinky temperature contol settings, that are
now defunct. They are difficult to repair.
So now I have 4 burners and no reliable control.
1) What I need is a 20A dimmer (like a light dimmer), I'll use to
set my temperature, advise here would be ok.
I'm easy with building stuff like that myself, but maybe something
is available 'off the shelf'.
2) Later, if necessary I'll put in a feed back from a thermistor,
to set the temperature by duty cycling.
I should do #1 for the learning curve and see how it works 1st.
Regards
Ken
You're not going to make anything for less than a whole new
unithttp://www.walmart.com/ip/GE-Dual-Burner-Hot-Plate/12442588
We (wife and I) find the temp control on that to be iffy, even when
new.
I'd like to put in my own.
Ken
NT
Guest
Fri Jan 27, 2012 1:13 am
On Jan 26, 10:14 am, "Ken S. Tucker" <dynam...@vianet.on.ca> wrote:
Quote:
I (we) use neat little dual burner hot plates on kitchen counter.
Last 2 units we purchased (from a GEnerally reputable
company), have dinky temperature contol settings, that are
now defunct. They are difficult to repair.
So now I have 4 burners and no reliable control.
1) What I need is a 20A dimmer (like a light dimmer), I'll use to
set my temperature, advise here would be ok.
I'm easy with building stuff like that myself, but maybe something
is available 'off the shelf'.
2) Later, if necessary I'll put in a feed back from a thermistor,
to set the temperature by duty cycling.
I should do #1 for the learning curve and see how it works 1st.
Regards
Ken
I wouldnt bother using triacs etc, a relay is more robust, just hook
it up to a slow oscilator with adjustabel mark/space ratio.
If it were just for a one off experiment, eg to see what sort of power
level corresponds to what cooking performance, a salt tank would be
easier.
NT
Jamie
Guest
Fri Jan 27, 2012 1:31 am
Ken S. Tucker wrote:
Quote:
I (we) use neat little dual burner hot plates on kitchen counter.
Last 2 units we purchased (from a GEnerally reputable
company), have dinky temperature contol settings, that are
now defunct. They are difficult to repair.
So now I have 4 burners and no reliable control.
1) What I need is a 20A dimmer (like a light dimmer), I'll use to
set my temperature, advise here would be ok.
I'm easy with building stuff like that myself, but maybe something
is available 'off the shelf'.
2) Later, if necessary I'll put in a feed back from a thermistor,
to set the temperature by duty cycling.
I should do #1 for the learning curve and see how it works 1st.
Regards
Ken
to Bad you couldn't get away with using a 15 amp quadrac. A very simple
method of doing what you need.
If seems the largest I can find are 15 amps.
Jamie
John Fields
Guest
Fri Jan 27, 2012 1:50 am
On Thu, 26 Jan 2012 19:31:46 -0500, Jamie
<jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa__at_charter.net> wrote:
Quote:
Ken S. Tucker wrote:
I (we) use neat little dual burner hot plates on kitchen counter.
Last 2 units we purchased (from a GEnerally reputable
company), have dinky temperature contol settings, that are
now defunct. They are difficult to repair.
So now I have 4 burners and no reliable control.
1) What I need is a 20A dimmer (like a light dimmer), I'll use to
set my temperature, advise here would be ok.
I'm easy with building stuff like that myself, but maybe something
is available 'off the shelf'.
2) Later, if necessary I'll put in a feed back from a thermistor,
to set the temperature by duty cycling.
I should do #1 for the learning curve and see how it works 1st.
Regards
Ken
to Bad you couldn't get away with using a 15 amp quadrac. A very simple
method of doing what you need.
If seems the largest I can find are 15 amps.
Jamie
---
Veni, vidi, potuit superare.
--
JF
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